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Thanks for sharing! My 7yo daughter has requested Sophie for our book week parade and you’ve given me the best inspo!! xox Hannah (from Melbourne, Australia 🇦🇺)

Nice coloured .👍

I was looking at casting videos from the past week and I came across your video. First I want to say that it is great that you are doing this *with* your son. Not just showing him, but having him participate. Having him try things and experience it and figure things out himself. I also have one of those melting cups. (smelting is not a correct term, smelting is converting ore into a metal) I received mine a couple of days ago and have not yet used mine. I haven't decided what to cast with it. Someone on a Reddit forum had asked about an inexpensive way to try casting pewter. I did a search and found this item and gave it as an option due to how low cost it was. It is far from ideal but for the price you can't complain. It was so cheap that I ordered one even knowing how less than ideal it is. One of the problems is that the cup is very thin and the heat from the element is not easily transferred to the bits of metal to be melted. And this is particularly bad if you are trying to melt a small amount as you were doing. Stainless steel has relatively poor heat transfer compared to regular steel. So the bottom/floor of the cup will not have much heat to melt the metal resting on it. Better would be to tilt the cup so the unmelted metal was sitting on the side of the cup where the element is. You solution was to add some external heat. My thought on how I would use this melting cup is to leave at least an inch of metal in the cup at the end of the pour. This way there is better heat transfer from the side walls into the metal to be melted. I would never leave metal solidify in a crucible but due to the design of this melting cup it would be more practical for the casting I might use it for. My interest is in bigger pours, and while I have pewter that I will use to initially test this item, I am more interested to see if it can be used to cast zinc alloys. If your son continues to be interested in this, you might want to consider sand casting. There is a casting sand called Petrobond that is oil based and uses a fine grain sand and can produce good detail. I use a water based sand (sand, clay, water) which has some advantages and disadvantages compared to the Petrobond sand.

I spent an embarrassing amount of time looking for the source of bird sound out of my window. Completely unaware that birds also exist elsewhere.

is it possible? your video is THE ONLY ONE that gave me some damn clue on how to use my seal scanner. THERE IS NO A SINGLE decent official guide... is this a joke? Please Mike, tell me I'm wrong! I wanna be wrong! Please!!!

Getting trolley envy

i buyed the same and its very good

Buenas !! Alguien tiene la plantilla ?

Have your first like and your first comment mate, on me 👍

Raise the sharp keys higher up, it’ll be easier to press them and not press one of the naturals

It's great. So simple. I will try to replicate for a school Makerspace activity.

Could you capture images with more than 240X240 size? If yes, could you help, or share part of your code.

Hello. ReaLly need your help. Actually working on a projet (3D scanner). Using OV5640, a laser line, and RaspBerry Pico. Now having issue with memory lack, when increasing image size. I see that you use a memory card. Can we store variable directly inside of it, without allocating space inside RAM?

Hi! thanks por the information at the video, i´d just like to ask if yo could share the programation in other video please

Nice video! What's the cad program you're using here? You didn't bother to convert mesh to cad file!

I think the black square at the top is the drum pad

Sorry I made you lots of work 😒

Drum sander? Nice result BTW. Cant help wondering if burning or engraving the outline of the leftmost or rightmost, of each letter profile, where they overlap, would enhance the effect. Given the skillful artisam aproack ou have I suspect burning, with a pointed tool, would be more your style than engraving, although a pantograph engraving from a paper pattern would still be essentally a manual operation. You could do the entile peice as an engraving/burning and then shape to the surface detail rather than the glued on pattern. Interesting stuff I will try at som point... Good vid, Thanks

Nice project.... Build yoursef a die filer... Think scroll saw with a rigid blade, in this case a meedl file/s

Why not jut use a survo motor with an encoder.... Literally what they were invented for. Encoder could be absolute andle or displacement but in either case any discrepency would be compensated for by partial stepping the drive to hit the desired encoder position or step count. BTW... This would also mitigate backlash, asuming the encoder was rigidly couple dtothe turntble! I suspect that a basic brushless motor, geared down and driven with PWM whilst being dynamically locked by DC injection, would outperform a stepper drive significntly. OEM kit to do this will be readily availble... Look at DRO systems, speciffically, in your case, for a rotary table. You may also wnt to look at active backlash control.... Its a bit like calasthenics... Two drives oppose each other with, 'some' force. This locks the system mechanically to whatever ballance torque is applied. When you wnt to move you reduce torque on one of th drives untill th requirement to move is achieved and tus removed by the control system. Your drive system must be back drivable, so no worms, but The combintion of push-push, direct measurment of angular displacement and simple PWM control of DC , orcurrent control asynchronious AC motors, makes for a very simple and precise positioning system. You might even considder directly driving the turntable, as in make it thr motor. Ficing perminant magnets to the turntable and modulating current in ficd coils, microstepping in stepper terms, whilst measuring displacement qould completly remove the drive chain and still affort push-push or pull-pull positioning.

Great work! I especially liked the idea of using concentric circles to give it a dome-shaped structure, assuming that was the purpose of the concentric circles. Also, what is the main purpose of paper mache? To hide the rings and to get an even paint on? Did you use glue or flour for paper mache?

Hi, many thanks for this. I’m very new to soldering so this is possibly a stupid question: Should I ensure that both sides of the PCB holes are soldered? Have only encountered single side PCBs before this and I’m wondering if solder not flowing all the way through will be catastrophic for the assembly haha.

What a lovely project! If you're curious, the fisheye distortion adjustment makes a lot more sense when you see the transition from no fix to full fix, rather than only seeing the before/after. not sure if I can share links here but the youtube video "J7hdrMn2RII" shows a short animation (about 15 seconds long) of how fisheye correction works. If your lens is fixed focal length, that is to say, if you can calibrate the camera sensor once and then never need to re-calibrate it, you will find it immensely handy to point the camera at a large, blank wall so that there are no ceilings/corners/floors/etc in the field of view, only the wall itself, and then progressively move the calibration sheet along the wall to calibrate the camera's entire field of view. This will greatly aid in fixing the distortion that's particularly notable around the far edges of the camera's view, and by placing the calibration targets on a wall, they will remain co-planar for the entire calibration process, which greatly increases the quality of the software's output. If it helps, you can even sort of divide the wall into rows/columns like a spreadsheet, to ensure you capture calibration images uniformly along the entire wall, and thus entire field of view :) As an alternative, depending on which setup you're using for blob detection and chessboard search, you might actually find it even easier and faster to do the aforementioned setup, but print 5 target sets, putting one in each corner of the camera's view and the fifth as close to center as you can reasonably manage, and then run the distortion matrix calculator off that single image with all 5 co-planar target papers. This works quite well for rapid, uniform calibration, but I'm not sure if that is built into the code/modules you're using, so you may still have to do each position manually, but all the same - doing them along a wall will greatly assist the un-distortion :)

Genius

nice

Hi Mike, nice video. How are you doing with the GPS project for celestron? I have a 114 SLT and I want to do like you because the original costs a lot of money. Could you help me? What are the connections? I have the arduino and the gps... and the code to load in the arduino? And another thing, the connection of cables that go to the telescope (RJ12) to which each cable belongs? I think there are 4 right? Thank you

looks fun, looking forward to seeing it with a Xylophone, drums and base guitar al la Wintergatan 😉

How do you paint the canopy frames ?

Genius

I should try to do the same for mine, thanks for hint

Great! Nicely done, enclosure looks really neat. Did you end-up needing some ventilation for it, I plan to print ABS and ASA, hope that multiple hour printing does not make the interior to hot... Also, some experts suggested me moving the electronics to the outer side of the enclosure (Prusa Mini should have the cables long enough to easily do so). Thanks for sharing, I plan to built something like this during the weekend.

Mezerment showe on play wood.

Я не понял про что это, но было очень интересно )))

Beautiful art!

🤷 pr໐๓໐Ş๓

Hi Mike, good job! Cheer! I have an 114SLT using an old Pad Controller (2012) Do you think it works with it? Did you use a NexStar or NexStar+ to pilot your telescope ?

The author (Mike Gibbens) should really rename this video "Me assembling a generic kit (in fast motion with no tips provided)". There was almost nothing informative about bats, ultrasound or Arduino - clickbait title.

Very nice look. Been looking into using this type of display on a personal project also

This looks awesome, well done! I just got myself a Prusa Mini too, and I am looking to build something like this, but my primary concerns are noise levels; how much does this enclosure do to lower them?

looks good. But. What are the inside dimensions

Fome tu video fijate en otros chaooo🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

Any chance you could link the display you used?

ovemf vun.fyi

Thanks for investigating the temperature. Really nice to see that you can reach 40°C with only heat from the printer. Should be sufficient for ABS and similar materials.

Thanks for sharing the detailed view! I really underestimated the space needed for the Y-axis. Your video really helped me finding the right dimensions for my enclosure!

Hey Mike, I am currently waiting for the delivery of my Prusa Mini and also want to build an enclosure for it. Can you please share the dimensions you chose for the enclosure?

If you turn it upside down it can be repurposed as a happy clownnface and still easy enough to use as a good meter in the future if needed :-)

Could you please let me know the dimensions of the ten penny puzzle for 2p please?

Nice, interesting

Great chair. I'd love the template too. I'd be happy to pay for it. Thanks.