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None at all.

I assume you mean the base the pool is on? If so, it overshoots the pool by about half a metre all around. To support the pool legs, I dug holes into the ground boards and insulation and put in 2 breeze blocks per leg, filling the gap to bring it up so it's flush with the level of the pool. I won't lie - that was a pain to do, and setting it up each year ensuring the legs are aligned correctly can be fiddly.

I meant the green house

There are many reasons. Some which spring to mind, aside from saving the neighbors catching a glimpse of my wigglies, the tent helps reduce the wind and can trap heat in; keeping the ambient temperature higher and closer to the pools temperature so I don't have to run the heater for as long. Also, when in the pool, its nice not having a cool breeze making you think twice about staying in. Plus, it rains allot here. I like to control how wet I get (:

Tent is 4x8 meters

keen?

The heater is good. It's the Hydro Pro P14 Heat Pump / Heat Exchanger (14Kw). I got it from H20Fun (www.h2ofun.co.uk/products/hydropro-heat-pump?variant=20075970055). Someone in the video comments below asked about it and there's a meaty reply I posted which should help. Before this, I did try a smaller one (Hydro Pro 12 I think it was), but that couldn't handle the amount of water. I also tried solar, which in London isn't worth the effort. Direct electric and gas options are also available, but they're expensive - which is why I settled on a heat exchanger. It's still a little pricy and the TCO is more than just the upfront costs - its the running cost too, which becomes directly related to the weather. Worth keeping in mind that heat exchangers (like this one) only work well when the ambient temperature around the pump is reasonably warm, and not worth running when less than 10 degrees. The hotter the air, the less power it consumes and the quicker it heats. But, when you start it in the season, you have to keep it on - otherwise your pool temperature drops and you have to run it extra hard just to get it back up. It can be costly if the weather (like this year so far) is unexpectedly cold. I try and keep my pool at around 27/28 degrees (a few degrees hotter than a public pool).

There's not allot to the heater. I got mine a few years ago, so my knowledge may be a bit rusty. A few things I remember from the setup was firstly, the weight... these things are big and heavy. Even if you're a regular Magnus Ver Magnusson, you'll need a hand to move it. You also want to make sure you can keep it in the sun, as it sucks the heat from the air around it to heat up the water. I keep mine on wheels to roll it around - and its still an effort to move when on wheels. On the vein of size, I originally bought the Hydro-Pro P10 before I upgraded to the P14. This was about half the size, and could be moved with a bit of back breaking effort, but I found this was too small for the pool and could only get the pool up to around 24 degrees C on a hot day - which also took a long time to achieve. You'd have to leave the pump running for a few days in advance to get to the temperature. In itself, that cost a fair bit. This is why I upgraded to the P14. This is the one I'm using now, and its allot better. Typically if the air temp is > 10 degrees C then you can expect the water to rise in temperature by ~2 degrees per hour. I tend to keep the pool at about 28 degrees C, and that's running off the pump for about 8hrs per day. When covering, expect the pool to drop in temperature around 2-3 degrees at night. Naturally, this changes based on the weather, and I haven't done any logs so far this year, nor turned the heater on yet, as the weather here so far has been pretty rubbish. The stronger the heater (or bigger the model number), it'll heat the water faster. But this also depends on the power of your pump (and the size of the pipes - Intex use some weird 38mm proprietary sizes making connectors a bit of a pain to get hold of). The pump that comes with the Intex 24ft can't really handle anything more than the Hydro-Pro P14, and will also (for obvious reasons) slightly reduce the pump output pressure. Also, keep an eye on the required input power. You want this to be on a dedicated circuit breaker and check you have the capacity, or thing's may go a bit sideways. I know there are these fancy features like wifi connectors in some models you can get now, but I find these a little pointless, as the heater is powered on by the pump. So, you can have the pump on a timer and the heater will turn off by itself. Similarly, if the water is at the set temperature for x period of time, it'll stop heating. A side word or caution however, is that these can be a little power hungry, and it's easy to eave them on, but your electric bill does climb, so you may want to work out the power/heating/cost metrics against your electric company in whatever model you look for to get an idea of what to expect. As for the saltwater... I had the same concern originally, but rolled the dice, and haven't had any issues so far 3 years on.

@@chrischurchill1054 Thanks for all the info Chris. Will get my heater ordered looking at the P14 or sunspring14. I read online that one with a titanium exchanger is ok with a salt pool. New pool going up this weekend! Weather permitting.

The tent was a 4x8m Marquee Tent (PVC 500g/m2, steel frame) which I got online. Link is in the itemised-cost.xlsx breakdown in the video's description.

Nope. We did consider since this was done if we should "upgrade", but ingrounds worked out about 5 times the price. Plus, when I get bored, I can repurpose the ground with something else. Theres also a risk ingrounds can reduce your property value.

The heater is only good if the ambient air temperature is greater than 10 degrees C, so doesn't make sense to keep it up. Bit's I want to keep will fall off if I go swimming in that during the dropping UK winters. So, I tend to take the tent down and empty the pool from around Octoberish and set it back up ~April. I leave the tent frame up, but, the covering comes down. The wind picks up during the winter months and it'll take it like a sail into the neighbor's garden. Not something they would want. For the pool water, there are chemicals you can get to leave the water in there, and winterize it, but emptying is just how we go about it.

No, not quite as I didn't see the need - although it was pretty much the same preparation as if it were. So for the floor, after digging up all the grass, I laid MOT1 Type 1 rubble and whacked it to dust and made it as flat as I could. On top of that, I lay some 75mm floor insulation to work out any lumps and bumps in the ground and to also provide a bit of a softer feel on the foot - this doesn't really do much from a temperature retention perspective. On top of the insulation I laid some OSB3 tongue and groove boards (the sort you lay your loft with) - which spread the load on the insulation and made a nice flat surface. Then finally, on top of that I lay some foam matting - so if the kids hit the floor is would have a bit of bounce. Once I had all of these components, I gift wrapped all of this in DPM in a minor effort to keep it wrapped from the elements. Naturally, there are many other ways of doing this and you can probably make this easier, but the main goal is to make this as flat as you can for the pool as otherwise its not very forgiving under the feet and could reduce the lifespan of the frame.

Great to hear. For the pool size, its great. For this time of year it costs me ~£5 per day to keep the pool between 27-28 degrees. But that doubles as I get the the edges of summer.

Boleh ajarkan tak 🤩☺️☺️

Thanks, apologies for the slow feedback - been pretty bad at the social media life since lock in. I should do one for this year as the pump/SWG packed up and should do a video on how I temporarily fixed it. Also a 3 year on review would be ideal too. I'll put one together soon.

@@chrischurchill1054 Nice ! Thanks

You can get 2" socket connectors and pipe from most pool suppliers (e.g www.1stdirectpools.com/pool-supplies/pool-plumbing/abs-pvc-pool-pipe-fitting/2-pipe/2-socket-nipple-22710 ), but you will also need to get some additional rubber washers/gaskets (e.g www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DGFVSXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and/or PTFE tape to fully seal the screw join as the Intex hose is a proprietary size. The Intex pipe itself is 1 1/2" but the screw thread is a shallow 2".

Hi, as the heat pumps input is only 230v I didn't do anything too elaborate. I simply wired this to a plug socket which lead directly to its own RCD so not to share with anything else. I did get a thicker T&E flex and IP66 socket but as a whole, it wasn't too complicated. However, I should be obliged to say, if you're not confident around this area, I would suggest an electrician for peace of mind :) Glad you found the itemization handy. I found it surprisingly tricky starting from scratch and hunting all the right pieces down. Hopefully, you've saved yourself some research time there.

Another thing that just dawned on me which may come up and bite you - if you're getting the PVC plumbing, and are using the Intex flexi hoses, you will most likely also need some gaskets/rubber washers (which dont come with either PVC pipes or Intex hoses) as the proprietary Intex screw sizes are a little out causing slight leaks in the joints. You can make them fit without the rubber seals using LOADS of PTFE tape and/or plumbers putty, or otherwise hacking down the screw joints to the right size, but getting the gaskets would be easier. Hope it helps.

@@chrischurchill1054 Thanks so much - that's incredibly useful!

I heat this using a HydroPro 14 heat exchanger. I tend to set this to 27.5C and handles that with no issues. I know it could go higher, but think that's the best balance given the air temperature in the summer. I did try the solar panels when I first got the pool and found them to be pretty pointless in a London climate. As for the polystyrene sheets... this was floor insulation more for leveling the floor and prepping for a potential summer house when we outlived the pool. I don't think its made much impact on the temperature management, but as I was going to do it sooner or later... :)

@@chrischurchill1054 Thanks for that. I have now purchased the Intex 32ft X 16ft X 52in for this summer and I will have to buy a thermal cover as I think this was the major heat loss after talking to a few people about how quickly the water cools once its up to temperature.

@@andrewstafford-jones4291 I envy you for the 32 - I bet you a get much experience. If I could, I would :) As for the solar cover, absolutely. I also understand it that the main source of heat loss is from the surface more than anywhere else. I ended up getting this cover over the default Intex one, which I found to be a little weak on heat retention: www.splashandrelax.co.uk/products/Pool+Accessories/Pool+Covers/Pool+Covers+-+Summer/GeoBubble+Midas+500+Micron+Solar+Cover+Made+To+Measure/367352666. I understand the gold bottom manages heat loss the best out of the options. Also, the enclosure I added does help on top of the solar cover as it reduces the wind rushing over the surface causing it to cool. Typically, since the pools been out this year in the past 2 weeks (start of April during this Covid lockdown), I only loose about 1 degree during the night with the exchanger on from around 09:00-15:00.

Suzanne Taylor it’s an Intex Above Ground Swimming Pool Solar Cover Reel which can be retro fitted on a selection of above ground pool sizes. Costs around ~£99 online.

Bom

I like the idea of an underwater stand inside the pool. May help for the small humans :)

@@chrischurchill1054 Yes, and it's nice to lay or sit on. The bottom of the inside ladder rests on the platform. I used PVC piping as frame and fake wood plastic planks. Make sure to use coated screws else they rust. The part next to ladder curves in on bottom to acomodate the curved bottom edge of pool. Also make sure to securely fasten ladder, best on the corner. You can also make an inside water stand without the ladder, I've seen them.

Yes, I did upload them. See in the video's description, otherwise, check here: sites.google.com/serva.co.uk/pool-docs/pool-support-documents

Hi Grant, I've uploaded the plan I made before I started the build (in the above description), but honestly I used this as more of a guideline and refined this as I progressed. This was more of a pet project that got a bit out of control. If you want to know anything specific, I can do my best to answer. Also, for a bit more, I've also uploaded my itemized costs which I kept up to date as I built the project showing the materials, costs and from where. Hope it helps!

Thanks! Although, the plan is still to take it down in the winter as the freezing water wont do it much good, nor will the sail of a tent in high winds. Its been bolted down, and would probably hold through, but I'd rather not risk it. I don't think my neighbors would be too happy waking up with a marquee in their kitchen :) The enclosure is more for privacy, heat retention (only flutters 1-2 degrees with the tent on keeping the water around 28-29 degrees C) and shielding from the relentless British rain. But I would highlight the tent wont last long as the salt water from the pool is starting to eat into the steel poles. I may do an updated video with its latest status.

Moh Dem I'm working on on a neater version. The code was cobbled together in a day specific for the screen size. When I'm less self conscious of the monster I've made I'll move it to a public github :).

Chris Churchill any news on the code

Hey! is the code already on github?