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Easier to untie after loading

Ask Ryan at HowNotTo

@@risesummit5170 According to their testing, the Bowline is weaker and can come undone, so not recommended.

@@CyclesMcHurtz At what strength/weight does it come undone? And is that on the single bowline with stopper or some of the others?

@@risesummit5170 The bowline variations without a dressed tail broke between 50% and 70%, while the traced figure-8 was about 80%. Some other folks have suggested it's due to the smooth first bend along the working strand (Kyle Hill channel). I have seen bowlines untie with 10-12mm line on flagging sails. Sometimes that's many hundreds of points cyclicly loading and unloading when in irons (head-to-wind). I would expect the Yosemite finish was designed to avoid this kind of problem, but it still has a sharper bend on the standing line and lack of directly opposing strands when under load.

@@CyclesMcHurtz Thanks for the info. Do you know what the kN strength was at which they broke?

Normal bowline is for single sport routes. The bowline with two loops is for single sport routes, where you will have lots of falls, easier to untie. The bowline with yosemite finish is better used on multipitch climbs, you dont have the stopper knot on the outside which can sometimes undo. The rethreaded bwoline is safer, two loops attached to the harness, and far less likely to loosen.

I don't have many walls like this in my home, don't worry.

Of course, thanks

@@thijskraats9901 you can do, this is another way of using it, or as an example for the single lanyard

The 2nd connection point if longer, lets you stay safely attached to the master point until you are ready to absail

@@aviduke Agree with that statement. But in a sport climbing scenario, I will use both amrs of the lanyard to attach to the anchor, then extend the longer arm, whilst still attached to the anchor, then tie my belay device into it. Does that make sense?

@@emmitt169 that movie has some great clips in it

Why do you think its weak?

Michael, I guess that is a matter of opinion. The 'toy' carabiners can take a 2.4 tonne load, and so can the thin string. I understand you may want bigger things to use, as they may psychologically feel safer. This set up if safe, and unless in a climbing situation I exceed a 2.4tonne force, I'll be fine

You're forgetting that those rated strengths are for static loads. Usually when you fall off you apply a dynamic load to your gear. That's why people don't use cast aluminium krabs any more​. They're fine until you shock them but they are brittle and can't take the shock of a hard fall. That's why nylon rope is used for leading - you bounce at the end of a fall, greatly reducing the shock - and pre-stressed terrylene is used for SRT in caving and tree surgery - no bounce but only subject to static loads. u@@risesummit5170

It allows for a more even distribution of load

We tie a knot in the sling, so if one piece breaks or gives way, it doesn't shock load the other.

Several reason, the sit better on the gear, When a carabiner is turned upside down you are less likely to unclip from it, and easier to manage things.

I've climbed the route quite a lot in my climbing career with clients, so know all of the handholds and moves. Maybe 10-15 times in total. And the climbing is way within my ability

Just in case I fall from the top on my head

do you think he will die any less with the helmet on? my guess is the falling rock potential or maybe it'sholding the camera.

That depends on the consistency of the snow, and how deep you dig the snow hole. Once dug, it does shrink overnight, so make sure to carve the ceiling again, and make sure there is lots of snow above you.

The volume seems to be at the right level. Could it be the device you areb using to listen to the video. Is there a particluar part you would like some help with?

Once you are in there, away from the elements, it is very comfy and cosy

Danny, I will put this on the to do list and let you know when its done

David, we are a climbing company, and have a vast amount of experience, we understand the risks, but our setups are extremely safe, and would never go through with it in a storm.

Paul, we provide an experience called cliff camping for anyone to enjoy the experience of sleeping on a portaledge on a cliff above the sea

Those are my kids, and the experience is very safe

What do you mean by sub?

what he said

Telekinezis, the system they are attached to can take between 2.4-3 tonnes of weight, and are supervised by a qualified instructor, I think they are very safe. Safer than crossing a road.

Yashasvi, I did the experience with my kids, and they had a great time.

Grade II - grading in winter is very condition dependant. This route can be banked out with snow, so feels more like a Grade I. But on the video a good grade II. Very nice route, all the difficulties are at the lower section of the climb.

This is pretty thin! There are a couple of alternative left finishes that add a grade or two. IIRC the shorter and easier one is easier to find and probably that seen off to the left at 7:46 . If cornices are large later in the season then there is usually enough width in which to find an easier spot or one can use the left finish.

The Quarks pick is an ice pick, the Nomic pick is a mixed one. With some of the off the shelf mixed picks, the secondary tooth is very close to the front of the pick, or when the pick is worn a little. By filing off the secondary tooth, you give yourself more manoeuvrability on the mixed holds, and reducing the likelihood of the pick pinging off.

I want some of those

Rafa, sorry for late reply. Didn't realise you had commented on the video. Let me know if you are ever in the UK, we could meet up and go climbing.