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inlay bulk material I make in small batches for cutting into inlay pieces. This one has chunks of the bark from the top billet of wood we will bookmatch for a bass or guitar top wood on the body. The customer can have inlays in the fretboard/side dots/pickup covers/ etc... with this material as an option. Rather than mother of pear or shell etc.. Could be made into small knife or pistol handles if I left thicker. TY

You def can apply nitro over shellac. Shellac gets along and plays nice with just about everything. As far as results the best thing I can say is test on scraps if you can. Depends on the timber as well.

@@PranaCustomGuitars Thanks

yes, I don't remember exactly but yes for sure with gloss. TY!

Hi Brendon, I used to have about 170 videos up. Many were older or bad, or both. I had some comments that letting me know I talk too much or over explain so I just decided to take most of it down. It takes a lot to have great content and be entertaining while trying to run a real shop for myself. Maybe get back into it later if I can get some help. Sorry for the missing vids.

@@PranaCustomGuitars All good. This is the color I want to paint my kit and I just really want it to turn out glossy and have a beautiful burst to it. Feels like thats the next steps you'd be taking so was hoping to see how you do (did) it.

Hi there, at the time when I did use the shellac was to have some drink into the soft wood of that particular guitar as well as a partial sealer on end grain. The reason is the hand applied oil/spirits/poly type finishes i was doing at the time would make end grain super dark. Lying on the surface wet for days allows the oils to drink into the grain super deep and darken. I would only use 2-3 coats of shellac and that amount will fill grain a tiny bit but nothing that would make it glass smooth. You will be surprised how incredibly hard it is to not feel grain or have seep in with shellac and nitro alone. With no grain filler. I think you shall be fine.

Hi, I actually buy my Transtint dyes right at Woodcraft except Aqua where I could only on eBay. I bought a few Transtint colors repackaged on Stuart Macky's site. Keda I have just picked up on eBay. So I really don't buy from 1 site. I buy all over.

depends on the job. Hentzen and Clean Armor

@@PranaCustomGuitars are they the uv cure able type. I've been using simtec polyester sealer but I'm looking for a better option. Can u help

@@patruddiman4228Hi Pat, (get some popcorn) I have used Simtec with great result (MEKP) no UV cure product. Great stuff but to me more of a filler for us. I use another product for sealing like water. From Hentzen 2 parts. They call it an isolator. That’s all I want a sealer to do. Hentzen products we use are dual cure. You can use chem, light, or both. We just used the cat no UV. I know Simtec makes a polyester UV curable I watched on Texas Toast. My issue is I want to stop all the cancer juice and MEKP and VOCs and we are just now experimenting with a completely new UV coating system. I found a great line of products I have been testing that DO NOT NEED mercury bulbs, gobs of power, the absolute most harmful UIV rays if exposed to. So yes, fast for sure, excellent results I know but for me it's not enough benefit to be super-fast If I am still using harmful radiation traded for harmful chemicals. The other thing is the mess of overspray and filters, walls, the stuff goes everywhere even with hvlp. So what? Now I got to run the power sucking cancer beams all over my shop? Nah... I think we can do better than that after 30 years of the same tech it's time for, and expect finally, a product that performs as well but won’t kill you. Not sure what you spray or how you cure but I am playing with products from Clean Armor. Why? look it up if you are interested. We spray acoustics, electrics and need to be able to have sealer, filler, top coats in various harnesses. This is the first time ever there is a product like this, this quality, same durability and characteristics of traditional UV products all the large manufacturers use. Except it cures by sun or type A UV light that is basically the UV lights in dace clubs. You do not need any protective gear for the lights. A pro light set up for guitars is $249. I am not affiliated and trust me nobody has given me anything free up until today. They even have different hardnesses of finishes. I spoke directly to the owner and he was fantastic. Answered all my questions. Not cheap but this isn’t Solarez. I am not going to trash any products; I am not one of those RUclips guys. I don’t even get paid for this. Just love it as much as life itself. Want help? I suggest you do. www.cleanarmor.com/

@@PranaCustomGuitars I've been using the catalyzed version of simtec sealer. The issue I have buy the recommendations of the company to sand the surface with 320 grit sandpaper. I like to use House of Kolors Shimrin 2 system colors to paint the back and edges to complement the top dyed surface. I like surfaces at that point to sanded to 600 grit so everything lays down better. I don't have a paint store in my rural town anymore so I have to order everything by the internet.

@@PranaCustomGuitars thanks for the help watch some vides on it what a awesome product

I do make sure the neck angle and center line, bridge placement is correct. I don't do more than attach neck and check by hand. Absolutely I do, yes.

Hi Bob, I do condition to maple to even out my dye work. Nothing you buy other than Titebond 1 and some water. Every piece of wood I do slightly differently depending on what I am going for. Not after.

I will do a 1.5 pound cut first so it goes deep into the wood for the first soak coat. 1.5 the amount of alc to flake. Thank you so much. 1:1 after...

Hi Paul, there could be many things that may keep it from getting intense color. I would ask what kind of dye are you using? How concentrated is it? What wood are you dying, and maybe most importantly did you keep it to a 220 or lower grit finish? Too mush sanding can burnish the surface keepi8ng dye from penetrating deep into the wood. If you have off cuts and scraps to test with first that great. I always always test first so i can adjust as much as possible. Keep going you can always sand some and re dye. I have has to myself for sure.

Thank you! I have watched many of your videos as well. Beautiful work and dye work. Lovely brother. Cheers!

Obviously.

Hi, been a long time since I posted that video. This could be debated over but if anything with such a soft wood as that redwood, the only thing it would do is help stiffen the surface up a bit for durability. Not deep enough to cause any audible difference IMO.

Thanks Corey, there are many layers of color. Some are dye directly on the wood and also some color was sprayed as well.

Great question Dave. The slabs were at 10.9% to 11.5% at 3/4" depth with a very good pinless moisture meter when they walked in. My shop is humidity and temperature controlled and I re kiln dry all of my wood I buy and let rest and season. My shop is 42%-50% max leaving all my slabs at about 9.5% after I soft kiln dry down to 6-7% and they rest and come back to where they will stay. Perfect for building but not cutting 3/8th thick boards at 11% they will turn into a banana in less than 6 hours and crack and check. This is to keep them flat as possible. We opened up the wood and rapid moisture loss with thin stock can leave it unusable. It’s happened in my shop. So, for these sets they are drying out quickly I only have the ends clamped so they keep themselves as flat and straight as possible for the next month or so and then I will release the clamps and see ho they move or not. Then I’ll drum sand join them for tops. It's just to slow it down when cut that thin. Depending on thickness and moisture content I clamp sometimes to steel beams or stack weight on. The thinner stock is so much more susceptible to dancing and moving and grooving around than thick in my experience.

Hello Paul, I have a few videos on the channel of Eli spraying a couple different basses and guitars. He hates RUclips so it's a challenge but I will do my best with the next batch to get some more content. Thank you

Hi Nancy, it really depends on the wood, colors and what I am going for. I usually go up to 320 but right before I dye the wood I mean within 10 min of applying any color I will scuff sand back down to a lower grit to re open the pores. So it goes deep into the softer grain to pop the contrast. I do every job different but 180-220 tops right before. Thanks

Most of the time yes. Here yes I did not so much in the maple just the back and sides. A dyed epoxy because the body wood was soft as a bar of soap. Seemed like it but light as air.

I have a quilted guitar kit right now. I’m going to use blue stain as well. With the veneer so thin I don’t think I can do the black first and sand it off then apply the blue…just worried about sanding through the veneer.

Thank you, there were about 7 steps in the dying process. Some water some alcohol depends which step. Everyone is a little different depending on the wood and what I'm trying to get close to.

2 thin coats of shellac under TruOil is ideal for a guitar neck IMHO. Buff out the final finish with 0000 steel wool and wax to yield the best feeling finish ever.

There are a lot of guitar builders and people using Angelus leather dyes for wood. The dye will fade in the sun in days it is cheap and not very long lasting at all. I personally use Keda, and Transtint but there are other good quality dye companies. I have a video on light fastness of these dyes. You will see... You pay for what you get...

Thank you Al, just keep watching it's going to be amazing getting your ideas in your hands.

Thank you so much.