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@@numinut The little ones can be really sticky for some reason. I agree that I was surprised how much trouble I had l, given how good so many of their other clamps are. German tools in general I’ve been pretty good for me, at least their designs produced overseas at a minimum. I double checked my clamps here, and the I-beam, that the handle twists into has to be level to the fixed jaw at the end of the clamp. The clamp function engages and locks onto the bar when the handle is tilted up or the bottom of the handle is tipped towards the bar if that makes sense? So what you wanna do is make sure that the handle is unscrewed all the way to relieve any pressure the screw in the handle are applying to the job that is jammed. And if you can’t tilt the jar away from the bar, which is how I found, I unlock the clamp jar when it’s stuck up against the other one, then what you want to do is take a dowel thick enough to take a couple of hits or a block of wood skinny enough to just hit the I-beam that the bar handle tilts on and tap it close to where the threads are. When that side gets tapped down so that it’s parallel to the fixed jaw, it should unlock. So in a nutshell, the handle tilts toward the bar to lock it and engage the screw drive, and when the handle is pushed down and is parallel to the fixture at the end, it should be free and travel. Just remember the handle has to be all the way on screwed without having it pop off. Good luck!

@@RideTheGamer Not much. Getting ready to mud some cement board in my first floor bathroom remodel.

@@a0flj0 I don’t have a computer system that can upload a 56 minute video with a lot of start to finish clips so I don’t have a choice other than to post a lot of 5 to 10 minute videos at this point in time. I have looked at a lot of RUclips videos and I feel that the compact clips leave out a lot of information, so I’m posting this video series to show people how many steps there can be in taking on a project and that try to flip furniture can be done a number of different ways but if you want to make a profit in a reasonable amount of time, you need to be aware of that the tools, techniques, and even approaches to picking up furniture, make a difference.

@@therealflippingidiot Just watch one of his clips. They're not short, they're compact, in that he doesn't fill them up with unnecessary pauses of useless commentary. He focuses on the work, and only adds subtitles where he feels there's a need for details not easily understandable from the video. Like why he does certain things which might seem unnecessary, or what particular type of glue he uses for a certain operation and why.

@@a0flj0 The form of my videos will change when I have a better way to edit the videos but at this point I have a system that kind of works for me and I’m sure they have a formula that they follow for their restoration work. It has more to do with the logistics of production than the aesthetic at this point for me.

@@therealflippingidiot I'm not suggesting you change the form of your videos. I was just recommending that channel because I believe you will find a lot of useful and enjoyable information there. In no way was any of my comments meant critically. I'm sorry and I appologizd if any of them came across that way. I was merely suggesting a channel that I suppose will be both useful and enjoyable to you.

@@a0flj0 No need to apologize. I am always looking for tips and tricks that other people are willing to share, which is the great thing about RUclips, and it was April Wilkerson, who said that she thought she was doing some clever things, and if she didn’t document it and share it, then other people would never know what she was doing. In the future, I would like to actually produce my own things, both Furniture, but also accent pieces for home decor. I would like to back away from other people’s unwanted furniture, or the excessive hustle to acquire a nice piece. The one thing I will say about working on a lot of different kinds of vintage furniture is that I have seen the inside of these dressers and so I am gaining confidence in the idea of just making my own mid-century modern style furniture. The dream would be to have my channel support, the production of videos where I am possibly re-creating, mid century, modern style pieces, or creating new things inspired by mid century, modern styles and designs. I am remodeling a basement in my house, so that is why there are these drywall, cement board, and possibly plumbing videos popping up randomly. So with all the other things happening, I have limited editing time so I tend to shoot my clips and then launch them as soon as possible so I can get ready to edit more things. I have about three or 400 video clips to edit on a number of different subjects which include a planner. I recently acquired, hand cut dovetails, hollow chisel mortising and the stand I built for the planer along with a portable Moxon vise. But I will look into that channel because restoring vintage furniture is more like art, than science and seeing someone share, their experience can be really helpful.

@@ironchefboyardeee I have done all the drywall in on my own house so far and it makes it super easy and with the dust control I don’t have to worry about the rest of the family getting powdered or the dogs sniffing up a bunch of gypsum dust. If someone out there as a handyman and they want to be able to do a drywall repair in a small room while people are around this is a pretty solid option I think. And I have heard great things about Mirka from people that use lot of Festool. In my area I just don’t see a lot of Mirka products.

@@philipsalvador8269 If you are suggesting you saw something in the video that looks like a crack in the blade there are some laser cut outs that you find in better blades. They serve a variety of purposes to improve the plade’s performance. Some deal with the blade heating up and expanding, a lot of them have to do with reducing vibration in the blade. The blades can start to ring like bells and that causes shaking that affects the cut. The blades on Festool saws, I believe, have either an extra tooth or a tooth that is set differently on the blade than the rest, which helps reduce harmonic buildup.

@@karendooks6244 I have used the iron method for some things, but in a case like this, I didn’t want to put too much moisture into the wood because I wanted to fill the scratches and about two hours later, I could run over it with Watco oil. Because the plan was to use an oil based product I thought I should hedge my bets and keep the moisture content down as low as I could.

@@lefthandedleprechaun8702 Where is here? I had some feedback from RUclips that said I have people all over the place watching my stuff, including Canada and Britain, England, the UK… And my Folks had Lathe and plaster walls in different bedrooms, and we were terrified that we would put a nail into it, and the whole thing would crack and fall down.

@@therealflippingidiot .... East Texas

@@SebR-FR I appreciate the info. The screws were never locked down at the factory, and overall its low level of build quality is somewhat surprising, but in its day I’m sure it was viewed as a breakthrough in terms of quickly building a modern piece of furniture with the plastic under drawer rail design. The problem comes when people try to service an issue and end up crippling some thing like the guide rail and I end up having to dig out a screw or move a screw hole over to rescue a dresser.

A lot of the plastic resins and things like Quikwood are a lot harder than the wood, and what I’m trying to avoid, particularly on a large surface area like a table top, is to dish out the wood around the repair. That said, I have seen people in RUclips videos, using power sanders quite a bit to take down these resins, but what I would probably recommend is a hard pad on the sander so that it doesn’t flex and take off too much wood material around the patch. A power sanding pad that is too soft may leave you with a doughnut of a low spot where the wood got carved out. Also a thicker paper abrasive may help where a mesh style abrasive may be even worse for that dishing out effect. All that being said, if it’s early on in the sanding process and I know I going to take down a bunch of material and it’s a table where I’ve done 10 or 12 patches I would probably go with a power sander and maybe some thing that has a Platten like a belt sander to keep it flat with a very fine grit belt or a more regular random orbit sander if I know that I’ll be grinding the whole table top down a fair amount. In this case, the whole table top looked really good, except for just a few tiny spots and I wanted to show it doesn’t take a whole lot of time to do it by hand.

I have a neighbor with a painting business that retired and I ended up picking up about a grocery bags worth of various 3M sponges. I just needed to wash all of them and get the drywall dust out of the grit. My favorite hack on a budget is using dried up non-scratch kitchen, sponges. The sponge part tends to bow into the center, which isn’t helpful, but I find I can get a soft sanding affect using the worn abrasive part of the sponge when going over a surface that isn’t perfectly flat to smooth it and I wrap the abrasive around that scrubby part.

I like Bahco products with the carbide as my number 1 scrapers but for the money this set is a no brained! Lots of curves in this set if you work on old furniture like me where they did a bunch of rounded over edges.

Everyone should be careful using a tablesaw.