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Yes, the bike is rated for 350lb so you should be fine. You might want to upgrade the seat for comfort. Check out the X-wing seat on Amazon.

The trailer comes with a hitch pin that stays on the rear axle. This is very sturdy and convenient, as you can connect and disconnect the trailer in seconds. The trailer can be reconfigured to carry different kinds of cargo, and has a removable soft compartment for loose stuff like tools and parts. amzn.to/4dzJxMD

Glad you liked the video. 😊. Wallke eBikes include heavy-duty chargers suitable for their much-higher-capacity batteries, as well as a tool set and other goodies. They're available directly from Wallke at www.wallkeebike.com, or on Amazon at amzn.to/3xLTkPX

We have an Aniioki bike as well - my wife's favorite bike until the H7. Aniioki is a solid choice, buy I'd hate to take the weight penalty of the steel. I have an H9 AWD, which has a few more features, but the H7 handlebars are a winner for control and comfort.

In the very rare circumstances that we've needed a part, Wallke has supplied it, usually under warranty. The things you can break (brake levers, hand grips) can be replaced with similar items ordered from Amazon. Four years, and six Wallke bikes, and 3,800 miles in, there's been nothing to replace.

The trailer came from Kohl's, although it's available from other places like Home Depot. A similar unit can be found on Amazon. amzn.to/4eKXYOL

Yup. No way to avoid the weight needed for all the high-end features: triple-capacity battery, 350lb payload capacity, mag wheels, high-power motor, all-terrain fat tires. It all adds up. However, the motor does the work, so it's VERY easy to ride. If you lose the motor, it's not too bad, but mountain terrain will beat you up. 🫤

The 2024 X3 Pro is a major step up, and the price is VERY attractive at the moment. I think you'll be very pleased.

Thanks for the kind offer. We sometimes rid the logging roads and horse trails in the Prescott National Forest. And we have put both Mr. Tuffy liners and Slime in the tires. No flats at all riding in the desert or suburban streets in more than three years. I do carry a tire repair kit and a pretty good first aid kit. The first aid kit has been used several times, when someone in the group came off their bike when it got a little ornery. 🫤;

@@ebike_reviews I have been riding for a little over 4 years now. PAS 2, no throttle, over 32 thousand miles in the Verde Valley.. 63 flats with slime and Mr Tuffy liner.. This will be my 6th e-bike. Can't wait.. Thanx for the great review..

With you pedaling, 40-50 miles is most likely easily achievable. We've been getting over 70. The battery that comes standard is 40AHr, which is *very* large. Prior to the new 2024 models our eBikes had 14AHr and 20AHr batteries, more like typical eBikes, and a 40-50 mile assisted range was quite doable. The H7 is about the best bike you can get, and the step-trhough frame puts it in its own class. Good choice! 😄

Glad it was helpful!

The main differences are these: H7 pros are lighter step through frame, tilting split handlebars; H9 pros folding frame; more advanced display and controller adding auto headlight and programable mode speeds. If you're 5'6" or shorter or are older, the H7 is the best choice because of the step-through frame. There is no other bike that is better than either, and very few others that are as good in terms of features and quality.

lol -- still needs human supervision...

I’m 5’3” and not really comfortable seated on it…

@@jatteam8615 Have you considered growing taller in order to fit the bike?

I use the bike for fitness / cardio as well. You can get no assist, a little assist, or a lot of assist as you desire. The bike's PAS power assist system senses pedaling and will engage the motor to help. It will provide power up to the limit set for each mode. (My bike: 9, 14, 19, 24 & 29 MPH for modes 1-5) To ride at 10MPH, I use mode 1 and the bike will assist up to 9 MPH, then I use my own power to go faster. To rest, I pedal less and the motor will pick up when I drop back to 9 MPH. You need not use the throttle at all, unless you want power when you're not pedaling. Also you can modulate the throttle, the less you twist, the lower the power provided. When riding, I select a suitable mode below my desired speed and then pedal up to my speed. At this point, it's pure, normal exercise. To rest, I pedal less forcefully and the bike picks up the assist when I coast down to the mode's speed. If I stop pedaling, the assist stops as well. If you want more discrete power/speed choices, you can configure the bike for 0-7 or 0-9 modes. (With the H9, you can also configure the power levels for each mode to tailor the speed choices.) Here's how: Go to the menus (hold + and - together for 3 seconds), use + / - to highlight the Advanced menu, press the info button to open it, use + / - to highlight Assist Levels and press the Info button to select (0-5 will be highlighted), use + / - to change the setting to 0-9, press Info to set it, and a menu panel will open, press Info to step though each of the 9 options until the panel closes, + / - to get to BACK and press Info, + / - to EXIT and press Info. This gives your bike power modes 0-9, instead of the default 0-5. Now for the exercise. Don't use the throttle. When riding in any mode, pedaling will provide assist up to the limit for that mode. If you want to go faster, you will need to pedal. Start with mode (1) and pedal. The motor will assist to get you going and take you up the top speed for that mode, at this point you can pedal as hard as you wish, using the shifter to get the speed and exercise you desire. For motor assist up to a higher speed, press + for a higher mode. Changing the configuration as above, the bike will have more discrete modes/speeds, so you have more speed choices for the assist. Also, you can select Mode 0, which will effectively turn off the motor altogether.

@@ebike_reviews thanks so much!! As soon as it stops raining I’m going to try this :)

Thank you!

Congratulations on your new H7 ! Your experience with Wallke is similar to mine - unexpected great service. I think you'll be just as pleased with your bike as we have been with ours. My wife decided to get the H7 for herself as well, and she's very happy. You might want to add a single left-side mirror. We've used this one, as have quite a number of our friends: amzn.to/4crFkKG

@@ebike_reviews Thanks for the suggestion. I have purchased a few accessories already but was waiting till it was put together for others, including a left sided rear view. Thank you for the suggestion

While I don't know enough to comment authoritatively on your rehab situation, I'd say this: At 5'10" / 260 lb, this bike would fit you perfectly. You'll be able to step into position and easily get onto the seat. The pedal; position would be very comfortable as would be the upright riding position. You'll be able to pedal hard or easy as suits you. Your doctor will know what load would be safe for your joints.\

You're SO right! Thanks for your thoughts. 😊

Yup - the new H9 AWD is the H6 on steroids... 😵‍💫. Check out my review....

The carrier is rated at 110lb and comes with a decorative pad, not a seat. There are no footpaths, nor anything to keep a rider's feet out of the wheel, so definitely not safe for a second rider. There's an optional large cargo basket that attaches, and enough sturdy structure for other accessories you might find. Motor range will vary, depending on terrain, surface, speed, suspension settings, pedal contribution and more, so a precise mileage can't be predicted. However, the first 67 miles left the battery at 47%. After a full charge, I got to 112 miles on the odometer with 63% remaining. I think 120 miles of mixed motor and pedal assist is a reasonable expectation.

Sounds fun! How can I connect with you? Also have an idea you might like... info@ebikereviews.info

info@ebikereviews.info

Yes - no issue at your height or even taller. (I'm nearly your height.)

The first Wallke H9s arrived in the USA in early January of 2024.

Welcome aboard! I hope you're enjoying your bike like I do mine. 😊

The new display and controller do not have cruise control. This feature is not permitted in many jurisdictions, and past models have shipped with it turned off or disabled altogether. I found it a very useful option and miss it. 🫤i

LOL - you're certainly right! 😀 I recently reviewed the H9 AWD with a 60AHr battery, 1750W total power, coil-over shocks, and more. I towed a trailer with 100lbs of payload, up grades on rough road. I didn't need to charge it for more than two weeks! It's a monster!

Thank you!

Thanks for the kind feedback. The H9 will be a perfect fit for your size, and I trust you're going to enjoy it a lot. I got my first one three years ago, and have nearly 1,500 miles of riding on the two I own. For me, it's been a game-changer for enjoyment and exercise. 😊

I don't know what the purchase options are for Asia. As you maybe closer than in America, there may be a way. Perhaps you can contact Wallke through their website: www.wallkeebike.com or at: sales@wallkeebike.com ...

Wallke claims the bike is water resistant. I've dismantled the motors and the controller, and although they're are sealed, I don't think they'd tolerate being submerged. I have ridden my Wallke 2021 X3 Pro in the rain without issue. However, leaving it parked outside for about three hours in a record downpour did result in water intruding into the display (made by the same manufacturer as this one) on one of our bikes and made the electronics non-operational. It took about a day in a bag of rice in a 160-degree oven to dry it out for return to use. It may be that the particular display was defective, but we now carry zip-lock bags to protect the displays in the rain. In any case, I'll ask Wallke for a spare display and test it so I can say for sure. I'll report back. 🙂

@@ebike_reviews Thank you very much. I could not find the information on their website after digging through its layers. Most bike manufacturers post this information but when they don't, it's safer to assume they have little, if any water resistance. So far, I have found water resistance ratings going between IP65 (6=dust resistance; 5= water resistance... where 9 is the highest) to IPX5 (dust rating is missing, but still has a water rating of 5). A water resistance rating of 5 means resistance to water sprayed for 3 minutes at 4.4 psi. A rating of 5 should be good enough for an e-bike, except no powerful hoses or pressure washers can be used. Non-hurricane, normal rain and normal cleaning with a damp rag should be fine. Take care bud.

The display is made by Key-Display and is a Wallke-specific version of their KD986. You can find it at: www.key-display.com/product/29 It's certified as IPX6, so pretty good for an eBike -- can stand up to water jets.

@@ebike_reviews You're a gentleman. Thank you very much.

Sorry, I don't know. You can check with Wallke at wallkeebikes.com. (they are off for the two-week new year holiday just now, so you may not get a quick response)

I did upgrade my wife's A7 to a 52T chainring and chain guard, and this really helped. On this bike, my current thinking is to leave it stock. I think I'd rather have to low ratio in case I need to pedal somewhere, than be better able to assist the bike at higher speeds. Thanks for the advice -- I think it will be a real help for some of the people here. For anyone upgrading, the chainring upgrade was pretty simple, but did require a matching chain guard and longer chain, so plan that in.

​@@ebike_reviews​​​​ If you upgrade to the 11-28, it will NOT affect the low gear which is used for slow speeds. Yours has the 14-28 tooth. The 11 tooth gives you better peddling at high speeds but the 28 tooth isn't changed and that is for slow speeds. The 28 tooth is 1st gear. The 11 or 14 (yours) is the 7th gear. I hope that makes sense. You're not losing ANYTHING at slow speeds. You're gaining pedal power at faster speeds..

The stock tires are pretty knobby, and you can certainly hear them on pavement. However, the tires are standard 20 x 4" fat tires, and there's a wide range of replacements available, from street tires to extremes off-road. Because I'm in the desert, my tires have kevlar liners and slime.

Yes, the coil-over shocks are significantly more comfortable than the H6. For best comfort, my wife has a very wide seat, and that might be one of the best comfort options available. Not expensive, either. amzn.to/3UpZC0A (or search Amazon for X WING Oversized Comfort Bike Seat)

Definitely a wicked bike!🙂

In the fat part of the frame where it opens.

The 20Ahr secondary battery slides into the main tube of the frame. This is the same as the H6 Max.

The fenders are lightweight and very tough -- much better then steel. The inner chain guard is a real benefit. On other bikes, I've had the chain come off several times on very rough terrain. The inner chain guard reduces the likelihood.

@@ebike_reviews I wasn't being sarcastic. For all the advantages of my mid-drive bike, she does NOT have those features. I'd like fenders to keep the wet crud off the bike and me. My bike also doesn't have that lovely chain guard. Accidentally kicking my chain off and/or getting my pants caught in the chain have been real problems for me. That chain guard could have saved me a lot of pain and suffering.

With hub motors, there are several advantages. The pedals are not coupled with the motor, so you can stop pedaling while the motor drives the bike. Motor power does not use or require the chain or derailleur shifting, so motor power doesn't require managing the shifter or pedals. You can add to power by pedaling, but the bike doesn't load up the pedal power chain with additional torque. The hub motors are independent of the chain drive so the loss of the motors or electronics still leaves the chain powertrain available to drive the bike. Also, the dual hub facilitates all-wheel-drive, which is a game-changer on steep inclines or low-traction surfaces. It's not likely technically feasible to get anywhere near the power of this bike into a mid drive configuration. I doubt it could fit the available space, nor would the chain, cassette and hub likely survive the torque. Mid-drive can't support all-wheel-drive. With loss of any part of the pedal, chain, cassette or hub system, the bike is dead because both motive power sources operate through the chain. Perhaps there's another aspect of this that makes your preference more persuasive, and which I've overlooked. Would you care to elaborate so I can add your thinking to my own?

@@ebike_reviews I'm going to have to respectfully disagree on most of that. With my mid-drive, which is not unusual, if I want to stop pedaling and let the motor drive the bike, I can. It's an advantage for the motor to work through the derailleur, kind of like why you like having a transmission in your car. I can add addt'l power by pedaling, I mostly pedal with low assist and the chain can take the torque. I can still pedal even if I lose all power. I'm not sure how much I would use the AWD, but I suppose if I wanted that, I could have the mid-drive and a hub in the front wheel. Actually, you could get more power with a mid-drive. An advantage of the hub would be that if you lose the chain, you could still have thrust. Of course, that could work against you, say you're pants were firmly embedded in the chain and the hub kept pushing the bike, things could get a lot worse fast. The main advantage of the mid-drive is that it can use the derailleur and shifter to deliver power and torque more effectively. The mid-drive is also placed better in the middle bottom for best stability. Hub motors are the classic unsprung weight. In a comparison, the mid-drive will go faster, pull more and do it for less power than the hub solution. That bike you're showing is pretty nifty for a lot of reasons, but if they had gone with a mid-drive, they could have used less battery to go further making the whole thing lighter and cheaper. Think of it this way, motorcycles don't use hub motors, they use mid-drives.

I appreciate you detailing your thinking. I'll point out that the cassette freewheels, so none of the rotation feeds back to the pedals, so the fear of the motor power winding up pants caught in the chain is misplaced. I agree that a mid-motor provides power to the rear via the chain and cassette, and so you can use the shifter to affect the power delivered. However, the low-end torque from the hub motor is more than adequate to move the loaded bike up a (reported) 40-degree incline, so using the gearing wouldn't provide an additional benefit. In the same way, a 35MPH+ top speed is also available with the hub motors, and I guarantee a hub motor cannot turn the pedals fast enough to achieve that -- certainly not if they're not able to freewheel from the chain ring. I honestly have no experience with a mid-motor setup, and I think you've encouraged me to find a bike that's so-equipped. I'd certainly like to have some time with one. I'd probably learn a few things and come to appreciate your perspective. 😀 Thank you for taking the time to help me learn more....