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thanks for showing me how to replace the rear tale panel looks vary hard this is the only video showing me how to do it on my 1970 mach 1 this year is 50 years ive hade my car o i hope i do a ok job ill be doing it at san bernardino valley college ill let know now it came ot benny peace friend

On the bottom of the tail panel, it looks like there were many more spot welds drilled out to remove the old panel than were filled in when you welded in the replacement panel back to the frame. What did you do to those other holes on the bottom? Did you weld them in as spot welds from the back side?

I don't think that it is a perfect fit and the washers have play so they become position able. also bumpers may also need to be fined tuned with a bumper twisting tool. And yes they have that and used it on the assembly lines. Mount the bumper to the bracket loosely first then use washers and the like to adjust as needed. GOOD LUCK!

I hope you're still making progress on this thing!

I'm having the same problems with rear bumper brackets and valance. Thanks

Not going nowhere now grandpa put a tree trunk under it

Where did you find the black raptor? I only see they make gray now?

I'm a longtime blacksmith and you did an awesome job on those shifter rods. Glad you tempered them in an oven.

How is the bed liner holding up under the car? Any peeling or chips? Any adhesion problems along edges?

Pourquoi le primer epoxy Evotech versus d'autres marques plus connues ? Rapport qualité/prix ? Expérience avec ce produit ? Good job sur le mustang et le channel !👍

👇 Promo sm

Looking really good, keep up the good job. Right now I looking at a 70 Mach 1 to add in my collection.

At the 12:30 marker, it shows that outer edge of the apron popping out from the fender panel. How did you get it bent and flush against the fender panel? Did you have to weld it in place?

If I only had a fraction of your mechanical craftsmanship 😏 Darn good job! Same goes for the movie making btw 👍

Good job bud. It is looking good.

Thanks for the great videos. I'm now ready to start a complete restoration of a 1970 Mach 1. Your videos are a great help. Haven't studied the drop that Shelby devised but I think it might not be allowed in a concourse restoration?

I have aslo done the Arning drop on my 1969 Mustang, it made a huge difference in handlig. I also restored my 9" rear end a few years back which i made a timelaps of if you're interested in watching: ruclips.net/video/2VNnX8ngfnE/видео.html Nice work on your car and your dad's car looks awesome!

As always some top-notch craftsmanship 👍! Oh and your dad's Mustang is awesome!! When you say that his is a 'clone', what do you mean by that? Regards from Switzerland - Charles

What did you end up using for your blast media?

Beautiful work on the lower dash. Not sure you installed it for test fit purpose only or not. I redid the entire wiring harness on my 1969 Mach1 about two year back now. It is far more easier to install the wire harness and the switches on the lower dash when you have it on the work bench and then install the lower dash complete with everything on it.

Again, awesome content -thanks for showing us! Ahh... mine had the famous t-bone-shifter grip from Hurst. Memories... memories! Your emphasis of the correct thickness of these shift plates is spot on 👍. Mine were a wee bit too loose giving the shifter a somewhat wobbly feeling to it. As always, kind regards from Switzerland!

Nice work and good to see you back on your project!

Do you know why Ford put the clock above the Glovebox?

Nice job! Well done. You DO have patience.

Thanks for this absolutely fantastic sequel! Your editing is top notch and thanks for these hilarious side shows 😀! Oh and I totally agree with your decision to remove these silly wood grain imitations - you're right that they don't 'jive' with the racy nature of a 70' Mach I at all. Mine had the same outfit but neither had I arrived at the idea to change it, nor did I have the craftsmanship to do it as beautifully as you did it. Can't wati for the next episodes 🙏 👍 Greetings from another once owner of a 70' Mach I from Switzerland! Charles

So glad to see you posting videos for this project again.

Some questions… you didn’t put seam sealer on first ? And is there a specific epoxy primer you used ? I’m interested in doing the same thing and was wondering how well the epoxy primer adheres to the rust bullet

I'm getting Dizzy

You should have used the cut out piece to drill som spot weld holes in the new piece. The car needs those additional welds to tie the unibody together. It’s not to late, just drill through the top layer and then weld up the holes. Gotta keep the structural integrity of the car intact.

Have a 69 Fastback that my dad got in the late 90s off the first owner. No accidents,not even a fender or bumper dent almost no rust to start. Just got the body completed and it’s now on to all the new suspension. For now for budget reasons I went with better than stock parts that can just be bolted on. I may do modern suspension upgrades down the road but it really depends on how I feel driving it again after 20 years of sitting stalled mostly disassembled for paint. After my dad passed last year and we moved out all the junk that it was buried under I got to sorting it all mostly by myself, but also with my kids whenever school and crap allowed. It has a 302 that my dad had professionally rebuilt with a “hot cam”, his words. It’s a power steering car but no AC. As I’m in SoCal for now I’m adding it in. Already have the complete kit. I upgraded the fuel system to a Holley EFI setup. That’s with a Holley brand gas tank that came with a high flow fuel pump in tank. I’m using all Holley stuff so I shouldn’t run into compatibility issues. That also makes it so if a part is defective they can’t say it’s because I used someone else’s stuff. Went with a ready to run MSD distributor as Holley says that works great with the EFI setup. For the radiator I went with Mishimoto from Japan (it looks badass got it in yesterday). The reason I went with one from Japan is I’m working towards turning it into a pseudo Mach 1, white with red interior, but into a Speedracer Mach 5 combination. Thinking of calling it the “Mach 1.5”. Gonna do the decals but a period and a 5 in circle like speedracer and a curved M on the hood scoop. I’ve had this idea for years and even told my dad about it. Since he passed and was big into Japan stuff, he lived there for several years as a child and still watched anime cartoons till his time, I felt making his last project car into that would be a neat way of honoring his memory. I’ve got too many car stories from him to share but it was one thing we always saw eye to eye on was anything cars. The car should be drivable in a month unless I run into a major issue which at this point shouldn’t be. I’ve got everything in hand now except the battery and belts and U joints. Sticking with the 3 speed manual it came with for now but will go automatic at some point as my left foot has major issues. Did get a Hurst shifter kit and linkages for it and a better clutch so it while it’ll feel mostly stock there will be improvement. Brakes from Baear, all disc now and adding a power booster. The radio I don’t care, I’m just putting a good single stereo speaker in the new dash but I doubt I’ll use it as I’m doing something different with my audio setup. Going with a wired Bluetooth speaker, a cellular iPad and a inverter for DC that plugs into the lighter. The interior is coming from TMI already ordered the headliner and sails but it’s still 3 months away. Dynamat (lots and everywhere) plus extra sound deadening (old school kind another dad item) is installed and will be using the black carpet kit my dad got from Year 1 till the TMI stuff is ready. Flowtech longtube headers and 2.5” Flowmaster exhaust with X pipe, again a dad item. I’m fine with it though I was the one who recommended it. Sorry for the TLDR but I love watching others doing restomods and see what they went with. Much of how the body work down to the steps and style I had done was close to what you did. I’m in a time crunch as the house it was at is up for sail and I don’t live close to where it’s being worked on, more I’m just caretaker for the place till it’s sold. So if I had the time and place to work on it I’d just get my kids to help me finish it.

Use Fluid Film for inside the doors and quarters. It penetrates into every area you spray. It is the best for rust prevention.

That's a 69 body with the side scoop unless someone put them on the 70 body!! Which is ridiculous 70 is clean body lines good luck with the restoration!! 👍😎

New subscriber here supporting you! Become a YT god > P-R-O-M-O-S-M!!

Very cool Story. I'm finishing up my 1969 Mustang right now.

I like the side scoops on a 70! I like it! Did you buy the sheet metal brackets and add them in?

Nice, you are still ahead of the process, it's DIY or PSE ( That stands for Pay Somebody Else)

Just buy new reproduction door handles. Those are pot metal

while you have it blown apart you should drill the holes for the Shelby 1" drop. Also look at some of the trans am style tricks which strengthen the unibody like sub frame connectors.

Good job, looking forward to the spring and curious to what colour you will spray the car!

You and your dad are awesome! You both will look back with pride about what you have achieved together. One question though: Are you going to use this 351 Windsor Block engine or ist this some other project? Or, for the pros among you: Is it possible to 'convert' a Windsor Block into a Cleveland Block? Kind regards from Switzerland from an ex owner of a '70 Mach 1 (with a 351 C) Charlie

Looking good :- )

Keep up the good work, thanks for sharing!

Is this a different car from earlier videos? It has the 1969 cut outs but I looked back at the first video and it was clearly a 1970 without the cutouts behind the doors.

Hi brother, je suis français aussi. I just finished restoring my 1970 Mach1 myself. With a flux core. Tricky. Needed everything. Torque boxes frame rails, floors etc etc… took months working every day in my storage unit. But got her done. Satisfying. 351 Cleveland 4bbl 4spd trac lock rear, fold down seat shaker hood, 30k on odo. Original raven black paint.

where do you get your panels from?

I really enjoy watching your videos, keep up the good work!!

Looking good, keep up the good work :- ))

Looking really good, keep up the good work :- ) Regards from Denmark, Europe.

Sorry for your loss. Keep up the good work with the Mustang!

RIP mom. Great to see some progress with your Mach 1 You say it's a 70, but the rear quarter panels are from a 69??