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Thank you. I'm glad I could be of some help.

Life of a plug (regardless of brand / type) varies, depending on multiple factors: Climate conditions, how the vehicle is driven, what octane fuel is used, how the four key components of the internal combustion engine are functioning (air, fuel, fire, exhaust), etc. Too little or too much air, too little or too much fuel, ignition components not functioning properly to create optimum spark, exhaust leak / bad muffler / clogged cat, bad O2 sensor(s), etc., all dictate life of the plugs. When in doubt, pull a plug that is easy to get to and inspect it to see if the electrodes are eroded, insulator is cracked or it is too rich or too lean.

Thank you! I'm glad the video helped.

Did they break off flush, or are they sticking up a bit? If up, you can try welding fresh bolt heads on them so you can get them out, or clamp a vice grip on the tip and try to remove them. If flush, you will either need to try a back-out bit, or drill them out carefully, so you can insert helicoils and then thread in new bolts. Only other option is a new intake :(

No. I have on other vehicles, but not that one. Depending on vehicle, it is either an independent part that can be removed and replaced (hopefully, if you don't destroy the threads removing it), while others are part of the intake. I had to do a 4.6 mustang intake replacement because the inlet cracked at the base. Much easier to unscrew the bad and screw in the new. Unless, like I said, it goes wrong and you end up having to replace the manifold anyway.

Yes?

Hi Matthew. Thanks :) I drive Beastie like I stole her, lol. On weeks when my foot is always heavy, I get about 13.5 and weeks when I ease up a little I get 15. I can only run premium because of the custom factory tune.

Thanks Greg. Yeah, I considered yanking the intake, but decided it would be (slightly) less painful and time consuming not to.

Yeah Gary, if you're getting a code as a result, I would switch back. I hope what caused your overheat issue isn't serious.

Hey Joey. I'm sorry to hear it. It could be any of several problems. How long has the overheat problem been going on? Did it happen suddenly or gradually? Have you added anything to your radiator, such as radiator leak seal, head gasket repair, etc? Are you sure you got the right thermostat for your truck? And while I know it seems like a silly question this time of year... does your heater blow hot air? Your radiator or heater core may be clogged. Also (sorry to ask, but...) do you have the correct mix of coolant and water in your system and did you fill it cold, then run it with the cap off until it warmed up, then top off the fluid? Is everything else good? How long since your last oil change? Plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button all good? Is your air filter clean? Is your serpentine belt good... tight? Is your fan clutch good and spinning your fan like a champ? Is your fan shroud intact, top and bottom? Give me some feedback and I'll do my best to help you out.

What's happening is my bottom radiator hose it gets fat like if no water is actually getting to the motor cuz everything is Flowing my radiator but when it gets going to from the radiator to the motor it's not to me seems like it's not receiving no antifreeze to the motor and once again my bottom radiator hose swells up without a thermostat do you know what the problem is

@@joeysoler5535 hard to say without being able to see it and having answers to questions. But it is most likely a clogged radiator and / or heater core. I would usually suggest attempting a flush before replacement, but if you have no coolant at all flowing through the lower hose, that would suggest a pretty severe clog. You can get a new radiator at Advance Auto for between $170 and $251, depending on which one you get. It is a pretty straight forward job.

Thanks for your excellent comment! I should have mentioned about keeping distance if using the drill instead of sump to evacuate the tank! And great tip on the carpet! Thanks Mike!

Sorry, but I don't understand your comment. And no, it hasn't leaked in the last 4 years since I did the job.

Hi Andy and Amy. Just tell the auto parts store (or if ordering online) you need the inner and outer throttle body gaskets.

@@justinloxley7300 thank you very much!

Thanks DSX :)

Thanks, Richard. Good luck on the project. A few curse words and a lot of patience and you'll be fine ;)

Qué no entiendes exactamente?

The 2003 is the last year that they put the 5.9/360 in these trucks. The history of the progression and transition is actually very interesting. You should read about it.

I have never used those in 36 years, so don't know what to tell you. Sorry.

I wouldn't unless you needed to. They rarely go bad.

Thanks for your comment and the tip. I bought this vehicle new, still have it and have been the only one to ever turn a wrench on her. Yes, anything in the engine compartment is a real chore and some suspension parts as well. But it has been very reliable and we have zero regrets with our purchase in 17 years.

@@justinloxley7300 You are doing it the correct way, it is a good breakdown. I am lazy and time is limited haha. It is a good vehicle and they definitely are reliable.

@@operationNOBO Thanks. I'm all for lazy if it gets the job done ;)

Thank you, Gelvys.

Salut. Pouvez-vous me donner plus de détails et poser une question précise pour que je puisse essayer de vous aider ?

@@justinloxley7300 j'ai une camry v6 année 2000 ya un capteur sur la culasses avant et un capteur sur la culasse arrière mais il y a une seule fiche de capteur je voulait savoir le quel doit être branché sur la fiche

@@moussakone6958 Il ne devrait y avoir qu'un seul capteur de position d'arbre à cames. Je ne sais pas comment vous aider sans plus d'informations et de photos. Si vous pouvez fournir cela, je ferai de mon mieux. En outre, vous pouvez aller au magasin de pièces automobiles et acheter un manuel Haynes pour votre voiture. C'est un must have et répondra probablement à votre question plus rapidement que je ne peux à ce stade.

@@justinloxley7300 OK d'accord je vais faire une vidéo

Hi Robert. It never hurts to make sure the gap is correct. .044

Lo siento, pero no tengo ni idea sin poder verlo. Podría ser uno de los muchos problemas. Desearía poder ayudar. La mejor de las suertes.

Socket set, long and short extensions, swivel, screwdrivers, (small mirror or inspection camera would be helpful), band-aids, loud music, beer and a lot of time and patience.

@@justinloxley7300 Finally got around to it, thanks man

Hey Jack. Yes, that's fine. Lots of people do that. Just try to keep a smooth, uniform bead and you will be good to go.

@@justinloxley7300 Big thanks for doing thos video!!

Thank you very much. Yes, it is a pain, but it has been a fantastic vehicle and I think you would be happy with one.

Thank you, Ernest! I appreciate that.

Hello Tyga. Did you have a specific question that I can (try) to answer for you? Unfortunately, I did not produce a video when I did a complete front end tear down to replace timing gear and chains and water pump. And for the heater core, you have to remove the ENTIRE dash to replace it. Any chance it is just the hose that is leaking and not a damaged pump? And did you by any chance put any type of sealant (radiator or head gasket) into the radiator? If so, this more than likely clogged up your heater core which will cause the odor as well as the heat / defrost will not work.

Justin Loxley no i didnt use any stop leak, why did you end up changing these parts?

@@Mr.DIY69 Because I had over 300,000 miles on the engine and it needed to be done.

Where was yours leaking? Looks really wet at your thermo housing

@@Mr.DIY69 The hose at the water inlet housing had a split in it.

Thank you. I did that while I was at it as well as changed the air filter, oil and oil filter. I guess I should have addressed that, but was focused on trying to help people with the plugs. I will try to be more aware and offer additional tips on other projects that are easier to do while doing the main project if I do any more videos. I have become slack as hell lately. I have done at least a dozen major projects on multiple vehicles since this one and just keep forgetting to record them. I appreciate the input and insight.

@@justinloxley7300 No worries. What you did do is much appreciated, just sharing with newbies like me that there was an opportunity to compound benefits with minimal marginal cost.

I'm sorry, Kris. I was referring to the order in which I did the plugs and not the firing order. I apologize if I wasn't clear and caused you any problems with your project.

Our right, or mechanical right? Great video by the way.

Thank you, Ricky!

Sorry for the delay. I only ever use one gasket. Thanks for watching!

@@justinloxley7300 Thanks. I still have not completed the repair yet because I am having a hard time getting the rest of the old gasket residue off. I kind of figured I should only use one of the gaskets.

@@mysterybuyer3738 I would try putting the old thermostat back in place if you have it, or a rag to protect the inlet, then apply a generous amount of goof off, goo gone or similar mild solvent to the remaining gasket. Let it really soak in, then remove the remnants with a razor blade. Good luck!

A fine grit sand paper works nice if you can get your fingers in there once you get all the old crap off just use a really fine sandpaper to clean it up.

Thanks, Jerry. Sorry I couldn't do better with that one, but couldn't get a good camera angle, even using mirrors. Thanks for watching!

Change the thermast like he showed you...are you putting right oil in?

@@kylephillips2386 Sold the truck, thanks for the reply tho!!

So sorry. Don't know how I missed this :(

So I was wondering if the head gasket is blown. The coolant burning off and oil leaking into coolant system.

I rarely use form-a-gasket / sealant. I scrape the metal clean with a razor or wire brush, making sure to remove all old residue, then install a new fel-pro gasket. I've never had an issue. If the housing is severely pitted, then I replace it. If the metal on the intake is pitted, then I might use some form-a-gasket.

Thanks, Keaton. I replied to Louis and stated that it was 5.9 (360)

My sincere apologies, William. I have been in a [figurative] coma for months and just now saw this. 1 - Are you running a 50/50 mixture of coolant / anti-freeze and water? 2 - Your radiator might be clogged up. 3 - Every once in a while, even a new thermostat can be defective. The only true way to check is to put the thermostat in a pot of water on the stove. Set the temp on the stove just above the temp of the thermostat. Once the stove reaches that temp, you will be able to see if the thermostat opens. If not, it is bad and needs replaced. 4 - Do you have an electric fan or pulley-driven clutch fan? If electric, make sure it is functioning. If clutch, the spring might be worn out. I'm guessing that after 2 months, you have already found your answer, but wanted to reply for the sake of others and to apologize to you for not being there when you needed an answer. I really am sorry.

William Kennison it could be cloge some wher you can't see so consider flushing everything.and it looks be time to replace raidator

5.9L (360)