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I used sand paper, and file for the corners.

Hmm, don't remember dropping the exhaust or anything like that. Took the back wheels off. Jacked up the diff a little to get in there. And then where you can see in the video, used the red bottle jack to put pressure on the subframe to push the old bushing out. -Wasn't too involved in the end.

@@simeontaylor1235 thank you for replying mate genius idea from yourself!

Hey, sorry don't have those dimensions on hand. The alumimium bushing you can see there in the video is the replacement one. I'm sure if you find the bushes from an online store you'll be able to get the measurements.

My experience is only with the solid subframe mounts. I can't comment on the Powerflex Black mounts. The way I think of it. You have a scale that at one end starts with the regular rubber BMW mounts. Supposedly more comfortable but also gives a vague sloppy rear end that even my wife noticed when she was driving the car through corners. At the other end of the scale you've solid metal subframe mounts that's effectivelt bolting the subframe directly to the chassis, and you get zero flex and maximum feedback from the rear end is doing. - Something like the Powerflex is going to sit in between those two ends. - I'm very happy with the solid mounts. It gives much more confidence in pushing the rear end harder through the corners. I was worried about the NVH, but it's turned out to be fine. The cars suspension soaks up a lot of the road bumps anyway. You do feel things a bit more keenly like cats eyes reflectors. (But that might actually be more from the monoball thrust arm bushes up front.) The car is still more than comfortable enough for it's daily driving duties for me and my wife. One thing is that any frimer bushes for the drivetrain, such as the diff will introduce much more NVH. Also subframe inserts was something else I considered. In theory they should acheive much the same thing for cornering.

@@simeontaylor1235 thank you for the detailed reply. I agree with you on the sloppy back end of the m235i. I added kwv2 to mine and while I was happy with the upgrade, it only accentuated how sloppy the back end is. When I upgraded the rear diff this year to the mperformance LSD, again it highlighted the sloppiness. I was on the fence about going with Millway solid mounts or the firmest of powerflexs most solid mount. So I thank you for the info about NVH. About NVH, i did read that the rear diff mount will increase it but im not too concerned as the car only gets driven about 4000km per year, so going to the extreme doesnt normally bother me. I appreciate the info man, happy modding 👍🏻

Honestly if I could fit a sheet of paper between the wheel and especially a hubcentric spacer - and pull it out: There would indeed be a major issue with the spacer.

Heat gun

Glad to hear it worked for you.

Hi, No noise at all. The only thing I noticed is that when I drive over reflectors or any bumps, they are felt a 'little' more. But nothing else. I still get passenger complements on how smooth the car feels. And I love how much more connected, sure, and confidence inspiring, the rear feels now. Sounds like you've got something rubbing on something. If it was the wheel bearings, you would have heard/felt that even before changing the subframe bushes.

Nah, nothing at this point. Only things I can say are that despite how much oil it looks like there is through the whole area, the car doesn't actually lose much oil. I hardly ever need to top it up. I have noticed though that I'm steadily losing coolant. Not at a great rate, but enough that it's noticeable. -Which suggests the EGR cooler could be cracked. I'm going to check that out.

They do match - we're talking about manufacturer's tolerance here.

@@taylorSim1 then what's the need for the tin foil if there isn't a gap in tolerance?

Then the spacer would fit perfectly.🙃

@@MicRuLerZ because the flat side of the spacer is NOT flat

@@ACommenterOnRUclips lol that's not what we were talking about

I ended up needing to get a new Fenwal Ignition module. I'm in Melbourne, Australia, and there's a guy I found who helped me diagnose the issue. I took the unit to him, he tested it, and confirmed it was faulty. He sold me a refurbished one. Has been working well since replacing.

@@panpan5995 Hi Pan, head to Gumtree and search 'logisense robert' and you'll find a guy based in Frankston who does repairs. He repaired my module about 4 years ago. Still been going well since then.

Did it work?

i have idle speed wobble and 65 mpg vibration

can you guys describe the vibration that you were getting? is it just sound or can you feel it in the steering wheel as well? I have just installed spacers, car drives great but i am hearing some choppy sounds at higher speeds. Maybe its just road noise and i am over reacting.

@@lukaszM46 my steering wheel vibrates at 65 mph ... Like un-balanced wheels but they are balanced. Also at idle speed, i can feel the front having a lump to it as if i had a bubble on the tire which is doesn't

@@ACommenterOnRUclips Thanks for the quick reply. I test drove for 60km and 1 hour of driving, at speeds up to 160km/h and i still cant determine if there is a problem or not, more likely there is not. I definitely don't have shake in the steering wheel, just this choppy sound at high speed, maybe it was there before. probably i am over reacting.

@@lukaszM46 You could always take them off and do a test drive without them to see if that noise is still there ...

False the EGR doesn’t have any oil going to it... It is connected to the vacuum, cooling and exhaust systems. The EGR delete kit only prevents carbon buildup.

funny cause i was looking everywhere and i also came across the threaad you were talking about. I believe it was a porche forum.

@@feliiiik Not sure which update you're after, but I can say after a year, the wheels are still great. No shakes or wobbles. The only (minor) issue I have is a bit of tyre rub on the inner fenders at the back, when the car comes down over a bump. My tyres are already 10mm wider than the standard 265mm, and I thought I was playing it safe by only getting 10mm spacers at the back, when everyone was saying you could easily fit 15mm spacers with 275mm tyres.

hmm, all I can think of is that even though you got rid of the play, it's not perfectly centred.

Nice one.

This is very resourceful but they do make hubcentric rings that fill that void of space so you don't have to use tape.

@@Dillcars I did buy hubcentric spacers thats the whole problem they don't fit properly

With your spacers did it cause steering wheel whobble around 50mph ?

@@Em2Ron when I had aftermarket rims that weren't hub-centric I had some bad vibration even with the rings ...when I got the correct spacers for Nissan size wheels with my OEM wheels there wasn't any noticable vibration...I feel like hub-centric is very important more than people think...if you try lug centric no matter how good you try to line them up you will get noticable vibrations when driving on the highway and it will make it dreadful of you do alot of highway driving...if you have ones that are hub-centric they should not vibrate too bad or at all really...and if they are hub-centric and there's still a tad bit of play you can do what's show in this video or wrap a thin piece of tape around the hub part of the spacer and it should fix it....and obviously make sure all the lug nuts are about as tight as you can get them without breaking

same, i also bought h&r spacers and experience a wobble / loose streering wheel when driving on bad roads. damn h&r!

@@feliiiik any updates I’m having the same problem it’s scary

@@leojohnwayne1422 it turned out it wasnt the H&R spacers. ended up changing my entire front and rear shocks / struts plus new rear sway bar and bushings. car drives great again. are yours H&R branded spacers?

@@feliiiik oh wow that’s a lot Yes they are H&R I noticed on high speeds when merging on the expressway or even switching lanes the car seems to wobble. It’s scary especially on rainy days. It’s been 3 months I know for a fact my steering wheel feels much lighter as well. Before it wasn’t like that

@@leojohnwayne1422 damn, that sucks. I would take off the spacers and test-drive to see if you have the same issue. It's possible something went bad at the same time so it may seem like the spacers are the issue. Have you also tried cleaning the hub with a wire brush and hitting it with break cleaner? It's also possible some rust is present causing an uneven surface for the spacer to mount on .

Any news on what caused this problem and how it was rectified

@@grantquinn1056 Hi Grant, I ended up needing to get a new Fenwal Ignition module. I'm in Melbourne, Australia, and there's a guy I found who helped me diagnose the issue. I took the unit to him, he tested it, and confirmed it was faulty. He sold me a refurbished one. Has been working well since replacing.

Hi, can I have his contact details, please? I have exactly the same issue, thanks

@@simeontaylor1235hi buddy, I am in Geelong, could you post the details of the repairer

wow ok thanks man.

Was you getting any blue smoke ? I’m having the same problem but I’ve no dpf now and I have a little bit of blue smoke 🤦‍♂️

@@danieldavies800 No. not yet. I've only gotten as far as a new PCV breather valve. That did nothing. Next is to do either an EGR deletion, or check for oil leaks out of the turbo (pain to do, and also I'm not losing any oil.)

​@@simeontaylor1235 Hi. Can you give me the part number of the pneumothorax pipe? is this the original part for this pneumothorax or did you modify something?

Hello, if we want to connect the oil catch can, does it make sense to use a hose from the end of the long original plastic piece you showed instead of pulling it from the main outlet, or do we need to start from the main outlet and pull the first outlet

Hi, I updated just now in the comments.

I have a similar problem, the car stop engine with driving

Yep, exactly, number 5. Which is the known issue. Has to do with the way moisture runs off the cowling above the injectors.

@@simeontaylor1235 I lost number 5 as well due to moisture.