- Видео 12
- Просмотров 65 366
Simeon Taylor
Добавлен 23 окт 2013
bmw m235i - getting rear subframe bushes out old school way
Cooking out my rear subframe bushes on my f22 bmw. Doing the first one was a nerve-racking, but by the time I got to the last one. Was pretty easy.
Note the extra protection I put in place to protect the rest of the underside. Turns out I didn't need it, everything else was cool to touch after I got the bushing out. But I'd still recommend it though.
Note the extra protection I put in place to protect the rest of the underside. Turns out I didn't need it, everything else was cool to touch after I got the bushing out. But I'd still recommend it though.
Просмотров: 1 066
Видео
Spacer problems, wheel shake or wobbles - try this fix
Просмотров 39 тыс.4 года назад
Already made sure your mating surfaces are clean and flat, still having vibration issues? This is what I've been doing to make sure I'm not having any wheel judder, shake, wobble issues caused by the - hub centric - spacers I'm using on my car. Also found out I say 'you know' an awful lot watching this video back. :) Two other links to people suggesting a similar fix: ruclips.net/video/3gAgAbNx...
Faulty diesel injector just before it died, bmw x5
Просмотров 3,9 тыс.5 лет назад
I caught this behaviour just hours before the injector died in our bmw x5 e70 35d ( 3.0sd ). The software is Inpa, and the readings are for selective mass adjustment. It's the diesel cylinder fuel compensation values: mg/hub
bmw e90 m3 driveshaft cv rattle and clunking tinking noise
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.5 лет назад
Hi all, Here's a recording from under my car of two noises. Listen closely and you'll hear both a rattle that sounds exactly like a bad cv joint. The other is a clunking, or 'tink' noise that's also coming from the driveshaft. I'm pretty sure I know what's causing both these issues. I'm putting this video here so others might find it a useful reference. -Cv Noise - there is in fact a cv joint h...
Bmw x5 35d 3.0sd ccv crankcase vent oil question
Просмотров 9 тыс.5 лет назад
Lots of oil inside this engine, inlet manifold in particular. Trying to figure out why. Hoping someone knows. I'm thinking it might be the ccv.
Bought H&R spacers specifically for Mercedes W204 and when i drive and look in the mirror on the rear tires they wobble. The front wheels that doesn't have spacers doesn't wobble, and so are my old wheels
You mention cleaning the contact patches at the start of the video. But how do you clean them?
I used sand paper, and file for the corners.
hey mate what was your steps to this part was it dropping the exhaust or the drive shafts out or simple as jack up support diff and back end and slacken and heat and press in?
Hmm, don't remember dropping the exhaust or anything like that. Took the back wheels off. Jacked up the diff a little to get in there. And then where you can see in the video, used the red bottle jack to put pressure on the subframe to push the old bushing out. -Wasn't too involved in the end.
@@simeontaylor1235 thank you for replying mate genius idea from yourself!
I have the same issue and I didnt figure it out until today. Your solution is genius! Thank you sir!
Hello, would you he to tell me in mm what size diameter aluminium bushing was that you used to press out the oem bush and if possible the rear size also i have to do this exact modification and may be able to make my own bush press tool thanks
Hey, sorry don't have those dimensions on hand. The alumimium bushing you can see there in the video is the replacement one. I'm sure if you find the bushes from an online store you'll be able to get the measurements.
Would you recommend solid mounts over something like powerflex’s black mounts? Im planning out my path forward on the rear subframe. I plan on doing the front and rear subframe mounts, diff mount and two front diff mounts. Thanks
My experience is only with the solid subframe mounts. I can't comment on the Powerflex Black mounts. The way I think of it. You have a scale that at one end starts with the regular rubber BMW mounts. Supposedly more comfortable but also gives a vague sloppy rear end that even my wife noticed when she was driving the car through corners. At the other end of the scale you've solid metal subframe mounts that's effectivelt bolting the subframe directly to the chassis, and you get zero flex and maximum feedback from the rear end is doing. - Something like the Powerflex is going to sit in between those two ends. - I'm very happy with the solid mounts. It gives much more confidence in pushing the rear end harder through the corners. I was worried about the NVH, but it's turned out to be fine. The cars suspension soaks up a lot of the road bumps anyway. You do feel things a bit more keenly like cats eyes reflectors. (But that might actually be more from the monoball thrust arm bushes up front.) The car is still more than comfortable enough for it's daily driving duties for me and my wife. One thing is that any frimer bushes for the drivetrain, such as the diff will introduce much more NVH. Also subframe inserts was something else I considered. In theory they should acheive much the same thing for cornering.
@@simeontaylor1235 thank you for the detailed reply. I agree with you on the sloppy back end of the m235i. I added kwv2 to mine and while I was happy with the upgrade, it only accentuated how sloppy the back end is. When I upgraded the rear diff this year to the mperformance LSD, again it highlighted the sloppiness. I was on the fence about going with Millway solid mounts or the firmest of powerflexs most solid mount. So I thank you for the info about NVH. About NVH, i did read that the rear diff mount will increase it but im not too concerned as the car only gets driven about 4000km per year, so going to the extreme doesnt normally bother me. I appreciate the info man, happy modding 👍🏻
you should apply a paper test... put an A4 paper between the wheel and the spacer if you can take the paper out easily then forget about using that spacer it s dangerous otherwise. this aliminium foil will not save your life while driving high speed.
Honestly if I could fit a sheet of paper between the wheel and especially a hubcentric spacer - and pull it out: There would indeed be a major issue with the spacer.
This is amazing. Unfortunately i put red locktight on my studs already. 😮
Heat gun
Great info - and an excellent solution. Thanks! Moral of the story - get the best spacers with a warrantied fitment - H&Rs for my RS5 and S6 - no issues....
Hi Simeon you posted a clip about a breamar ducted heater failing where it fired up then switched off. Could you please tell me what the fault was you discovered and how you fixed it as I believe I have the same problem with my breamar tq4. Thanks
Tape would wear faster than aluminum
Good advice. Top tip if you use some spray copper slip on the wheel and then install your spacer with tin foil, it will keep it there whilst you install it, will also prevent your spacer from seizing onto the wheel, also do the hub as well, cos dissimilar metals seize together. Also just because im OCD, why o why didn't you super clean those wheel front and back whilst they were off the car 😢
can you please tell me how to fix this
This works like magic! I had done alignment, wheel balancing even got new tyres and steering wheel was still wobbling… so I tried this as last chance and it absolutely worked a treat! Many thanks!
Glad to hear it worked for you.
Hub rings
so how do you like the sound of the car? I just had my subframe bushings replaced with Delrin ones and am now noticing a very consistent rubbing or scraping sound, it almost sounds like the brake splash guards are rubbing against the rotors. Do you hear anything like that? I'm hoping it's just the sound of the wheel bearings coming through.
Hi, No noise at all. The only thing I noticed is that when I drive over reflectors or any bumps, they are felt a 'little' more. But nothing else. I still get passenger complements on how smooth the car feels. And I love how much more connected, sure, and confidence inspiring, the rear feels now. Sounds like you've got something rubbing on something. If it was the wheel bearings, you would have heard/felt that even before changing the subframe bushes.
this man really trusting his life with foil lol
Hello, actually there is a hole. The opening is NOT the pin, but the very down side of the "complicated" shape. Perhaps it is a little bit clogged with sludge here. Please try to unclog carefully with a plastic stich like a cable tie. The main topic is WHY THERE IS OIL in the intake manifold? Now the question is WHY THIS HAPPENED? 1. Most easy and inexpensive can be the breather itself. It consists of 2 sections - Section 1 is the oil filter or vortex oil separator new design. It is fitted in the ""complicated shape"" Section 2 is the valve, round body. (needs replacement every 60000 km or at least inspection, regardless if you have roll filter or vortex oil separator). Of course the valve membranes can also go wrong. 2. Turbo oil leaks 3. Your piston rings need replacement and/or wear of cylinder wall. This problem is most expensive as you need to disassemble most of the engine parts, but also if there is a cylinder wall wear, need to solve this first. But for BMW, most probably just piston rings need to be replaced. Why this happened? Root-cause 1 for bad piston rings: Low-saps oils, using cheap HC synthetics and low level of ZDDP anti-wear agents, combined with cheap polymer viscosity modifiers, combined with extended oil changes (normally 10 000 km max, but people believe that 30 000 is OK. You get the result - wear and sludge that will clog and block the piston rings. Why you need to use low-saps oils? because of the DPF, to save its functionality for longer. Why you need to change oil at 30000 km? Well, you do not need. Actually 8000 km. is best for low-saps oils. Root-cause 2, after using the car and Root-cause 1 has been already working slowly since years: Clogged old DPF that provides back-pressure to the outcoming air with heated 900 degrees C air. This hot air kills and clogs the piston rings. Also may damage pistons. The conclusion: DPF kills your engine. First slowly, and then when clogged- very fast.
Any more updates?! Having similar issues on my 2012 x5 35d
Nah, nothing at this point. Only things I can say are that despite how much oil it looks like there is through the whole area, the car doesn't actually lose much oil. I hardly ever need to top it up. I have noticed though that I'm steadily losing coolant. Not at a great rate, but enough that it's noticeable. -Which suggests the EGR cooler could be cracked. I'm going to check that out.
It's called the paper test. You put a paper between the wheel and space and if the paper comes out its the chanfer of the spacer that's cut differently than your wheel. Hence you spacer is not the correct one for your wheel.
Delete this worthless video. Smh
I do braemar warranty work obviously now on the TQ models, was this a faulty ignition pack on im assuming a TH unit, still an apprentice still wrapping my head around the TH, TB and TG units
Try the appropriate hubcentric ring next time or ensure that the spacer's center bore matches your vehicles hub diameter
They do match - we're talking about manufacturer's tolerance here.
@@taylorSim1 then what's the need for the tin foil if there isn't a gap in tolerance?
Then the spacer would fit perfectly.🙃
@@MicRuLerZ because the flat side of the spacer is NOT flat
@@ACommenterOnRUclips lol that's not what we were talking about
Hi, I have exact same problem... how to fix it ? Can you please advise me. Thanks
I ended up needing to get a new Fenwal Ignition module. I'm in Melbourne, Australia, and there's a guy I found who helped me diagnose the issue. I took the unit to him, he tested it, and confirmed it was faulty. He sold me a refurbished one. Has been working well since replacing.
@@panpan5995 Hi Pan, head to Gumtree and search 'logisense robert' and you'll find a guy based in Frankston who does repairs. He repaired my module about 4 years ago. Still been going well since then.
Awesome man. I have the same issue and will try this one. Did you have to replace the foil though after a while?
Did it work?
If you need to make shims out of aluminium foil,all is not well. Junk the crap and either start again,or even better dont bother.After all manufacturers spend hundreds of millions on R & D,so if spacers were a good idea . You get my point.
That’s the click sound I get when you were wiggling the spacer
I got wobble. Immediately returned my spacers
i have idle speed wobble and 65 mpg vibration
can you guys describe the vibration that you were getting? is it just sound or can you feel it in the steering wheel as well? I have just installed spacers, car drives great but i am hearing some choppy sounds at higher speeds. Maybe its just road noise and i am over reacting.
@@lukaszM46 my steering wheel vibrates at 65 mph ... Like un-balanced wheels but they are balanced. Also at idle speed, i can feel the front having a lump to it as if i had a bubble on the tire which is doesn't
@@ACommenterOnRUclips Thanks for the quick reply. I test drove for 60km and 1 hour of driving, at speeds up to 160km/h and i still cant determine if there is a problem or not, more likely there is not. I definitely don't have shake in the steering wheel, just this choppy sound at high speed, maybe it was there before. probably i am over reacting.
@@lukaszM46 You could always take them off and do a test drive without them to see if that noise is still there ...
did you have wheel wobble? doesnt look like the spacers are fitting correctly. This happened to me and I figured the spacers fit OEM BMW wheels but not BBS wheels. Same hub size but slight different fit.
YOU just need a wheel balance
Lol, messing around with foil and shit? Just get some spacers that fit correctly. Don't cheap out.
You’re having issues with cheap spacers 🤔 and now you’re fixing it with foil 🤔 Did you try checking your brake fluid, that might be it.
Your a legend Mate !!
It is the EGR common on this engine, they sell and EGR delete kit to prevent this...
False the EGR doesn’t have any oil going to it... It is connected to the vacuum, cooling and exhaust systems. The EGR delete kit only prevents carbon buildup.
thx man,, super helpful
any update?
funny cause i was looking everywhere and i also came across the threaad you were talking about. I believe it was a porche forum.
@@feliiiik Not sure which update you're after, but I can say after a year, the wheels are still great. No shakes or wobbles. The only (minor) issue I have is a bit of tyre rub on the inner fenders at the back, when the car comes down over a bump. My tyres are already 10mm wider than the standard 265mm, and I thought I was playing it safe by only getting 10mm spacers at the back, when everyone was saying you could easily fit 15mm spacers with 275mm tyres.
hmm it only made it worse on mine, even tho there is no more play in the spacer
hmm, all I can think of is that even though you got rid of the play, it's not perfectly centred.
I did this but a little different..bough titan spacers for my nissan maxima and there was a bit of play both up and down on the hub..I used a strip of masking tape around the hub and it tightened it right up and fixed my vibration
Nice one.
This is very resourceful but they do make hubcentric rings that fill that void of space so you don't have to use tape.
@@Dillcars I did buy hubcentric spacers thats the whole problem they don't fit properly
With your spacers did it cause steering wheel whobble around 50mph ?
@@Em2Ron when I had aftermarket rims that weren't hub-centric I had some bad vibration even with the rings ...when I got the correct spacers for Nissan size wheels with my OEM wheels there wasn't any noticable vibration...I feel like hub-centric is very important more than people think...if you try lug centric no matter how good you try to line them up you will get noticable vibrations when driving on the highway and it will make it dreadful of you do alot of highway driving...if you have ones that are hub-centric they should not vibrate too bad or at all really...and if they are hub-centric and there's still a tad bit of play you can do what's show in this video or wrap a thin piece of tape around the hub part of the spacer and it should fix it....and obviously make sure all the lug nuts are about as tight as you can get them without breaking
h&r spacers on my mk4 and im having issues i should try cleaning and doin this method thanks
same, i also bought h&r spacers and experience a wobble / loose streering wheel when driving on bad roads. damn h&r!
@@feliiiik any updates I’m having the same problem it’s scary
@@leojohnwayne1422 it turned out it wasnt the H&R spacers. ended up changing my entire front and rear shocks / struts plus new rear sway bar and bushings. car drives great again. are yours H&R branded spacers?
@@feliiiik oh wow that’s a lot Yes they are H&R I noticed on high speeds when merging on the expressway or even switching lanes the car seems to wobble. It’s scary especially on rainy days. It’s been 3 months I know for a fact my steering wheel feels much lighter as well. Before it wasn’t like that
@@leojohnwayne1422 damn, that sucks. I would take off the spacers and test-drive to see if you have the same issue. It's possible something went bad at the same time so it may seem like the spacers are the issue. Have you also tried cleaning the hub with a wire brush and hitting it with break cleaner? It's also possible some rust is present causing an uneven surface for the spacer to mount on .
I have exact same problem - what was the remedy?
Any news on what caused this problem and how it was rectified
@@grantquinn1056 Hi Grant, I ended up needing to get a new Fenwal Ignition module. I'm in Melbourne, Australia, and there's a guy I found who helped me diagnose the issue. I took the unit to him, he tested it, and confirmed it was faulty. He sold me a refurbished one. Has been working well since replacing.
Hi, can I have his contact details, please? I have exactly the same issue, thanks
@@simeontaylor1235hi buddy, I am in Geelong, could you post the details of the repairer
Hi, in essence, it's typical of the engine. I did a bunch of reading about it, and it's a common issue and it can be alleviated by installing a drip can (catch can) connected to the crankcase breather valve system. But that takes more time/effort/money than I was willing to spend on it. The engine runs fine, and I leaving it as is. My main concern was oil getting to and clogging the DPF. But I don't believe that is an issue.
wow ok thanks man.
Was you getting any blue smoke ? I’m having the same problem but I’ve no dpf now and I have a little bit of blue smoke 🤦♂️
@@danieldavies800 No. not yet. I've only gotten as far as a new PCV breather valve. That did nothing. Next is to do either an EGR deletion, or check for oil leaks out of the turbo (pain to do, and also I'm not losing any oil.)
@@simeontaylor1235 Hi. Can you give me the part number of the pneumothorax pipe? is this the original part for this pneumothorax or did you modify something?
Hello, if we want to connect the oil catch can, does it make sense to use a hose from the end of the long original plastic piece you showed instead of pulling it from the main outlet, or do we need to start from the main outlet and pull the first outlet
update?
Hi, I updated just now in the comments.
So, I can finally report back that I've fixed the issues. The cause of the rattle under acceleration was from a bad center bearing (#8 in the realoem link in the description above) - I replaced it, and the acceleration rattle was gone. I also got rid of the clunk (tink, cowbell sound, etc) that happens whenever going from reverse to forward or vice-versa. In the same realoem diagram above, there's a u-joint near #12. Inside the U-joint is a big bolt and washer that secures the two halves of the driveshaft. I can't find the url for the forum answer I found right now - but it basically said to pack the U-Joint and that bolt with grease. So I did. I packed grease into both sides of that washer. and around the U-Joint itself. Can't say exactly where the grease made the difference. However the clunk is gone. Yay! Pain of a job though. Have to drop the whole exhaust to get to the drive shaft.
I have a rattling issue on mine too and I feel like it is happening more often like in this video and when i reverse the car there is a metallic scraping noise which comes from the middle of the car. I wonder what would happen if I keep driving the car like that.
www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=993228 www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2068647-Boosted-M62TU-Where-could-I-be-pressurizing-the-crank-case-from xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e70-forum/97266-35d-adding-crankcase-breather-oil-separator.htmlxoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e70-forum/99649-gauging-interest-takeoff-plate-mount-oil-separator-35d.htmlwww.tunemyeuro.com/ccv-hose-for-bmw-diesel-3-0l-engine-m57-x5-35d-and-335d/www.ebay.com/itm/METZGER-Crankcase-Breather-Membrane-For-BMW-X3-X4-X5-X6-E70-E71-11128515745/143264418359?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D7d1c133ca33a489cbf1f0ab65cfa1d06%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D192301269929%26itm%3D143264418359%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 ruclips.net/video/cJR7hcMHNjo/видео.html
Did you find the cause?
Which one died - number 5? What was the symptoms?
I have a similar problem, the car stop engine with driving
Yep, exactly, number 5. Which is the known issue. Has to do with the way moisture runs off the cowling above the injectors.
@@simeontaylor1235 I lost number 5 as well due to moisture.
OP, did you solve this issue? Mine is same
6 months !? not bad... in my E92 30d it lasted 2 weeks... and I bought it as a "Gates" part, and it came the "motorad" junk..
JB weld is a temporary fix it will eventually fail and sooner than later. I had this issue on my s500 and tried many options none last even epoxy. Suck it up and spend the few hundred and get a new radiator it’s the smartest well second smartest choice. If you plan to keep the vehicle do as I did and have a nice radiator made of quality parts by a professional it will last forever and only set you back about $500-700 worth the cost in my opinion. Well worth the hassle for sure.