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Добавлен 25 ноя 2021
Jinma 254 Tractor Brake Job & Seals
The entire process to replace the brake friction discs and brake axle seals on a Jinma 254 tractor.
Просмотров: 928
Видео
Jinma 254 Tractor Backhoe Installation
Просмотров 456Год назад
This video shows the complete process for installing a subframe backhoe to a J254 tractor.
E pluribus unum
Просмотров 312Год назад
A resurrected Heathkit V-7A vacuum tube voltmeter. Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!): uppbeat.io/t/abstract-aprils/hybrid-guile License code: QXRF6SA9LQU5HD7F
Homemade 15 Ton Log Splitter, Horizontal/Vertical, Towable
Просмотров 207Год назад
This is a 15 ton log splitter I made. It can be used in a horizontal or vertical orientation and is towable.
Portland 1750 PSI Pressure Washer FIXED!
Просмотров 23 тыс.2 года назад
Fixing the green Portland 1750 PSI pressure washer. It constantly turned on and off, now it works perfectly!
BMW K1100 Fuel Pump Replacement
Просмотров 8 тыс.2 года назад
Shows the process of replacing the fuel pump, fuel screen & fuel filter.
Bought mine probably 5 years ago. They've changed the internal design at least 2 times since then, so the slightly older machines don't look like this on the inside. Some other RUclipsrs have models similar to yours, but still not exactly the same. Wonder if they're making a better design to fix known problems or just making them cheaper? Hard to complain about only paying $70.
I suspect all versions are impacted in the same way. Unless the internals are regularly cleaned, the impurities in the water will have a predictable and negative impact on the basic functionality of the unit.
Hey guys I’m buying one of these and the guy said the wires broke off from the pump. Would it be worth buying the bike for $500 and just replacing the pump???
Until the broken fuel pump wires are safely isolated from the tank fuel and vapors, DO NOT energize the fuel pump circuit. If this is the only defect on the bike, it's likely worth $500 or more. If the wires broke off the pump, the pump, itself, may still be functional. Why and/or how did the wires break or become disconnected? I would thoroughly inspect the bike before purchasing, including testing the fuel pump wires for voltage, with the wires external to the fuel tank, far away from any fuel and fuel vapors. (explosion hazard) If you're not experienced or properly safe with electrical/electronics and fuel systems, let a professional mechanic handle it. I would pursue this bike, as it may turn out to be a really good deal.
@@soopa2doopa268 yea he said the rank was cleaned and the wires broke then. And thanks I appreciate it
Anytime.
I don't recall the gauge of the fuel pump wires, so this may (or may not) be useful: www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fuelwire.htm
If it's a k1100lt motorcycle, heck ya....it's an easy fix
Thank you for showing! :-) Thanks from the Netherlands. 🙂
Glad to help! All the best.
Great video! The pressure switch assembly is exactly the same in Clen G159 pressure washer sold in Europe so this helps with Clen users too 👌🏻
Great tip! Thanks for letting everyone know.
perfect work 💪 on every detail🎯
Thanks! It rides like new again, engine is silky smooth.
Very enjoyable to watch. Great work on a great bike!
Thank you kindly!
Thank you
You're welcome and I hope the video helped.
Mine is brand new out of the box and does this. It's never worked.
THANK YOU SIR!!! I’ll be dong this in a few days and your vid is a great help
Welcome! Smooth sailing.
Very nice video , and a lot of work all compressed in 20 mins. I need to do some of the things you had done. I Think i will fix this airbox -oil separator. I am sure mine is clogged Thank you
Thanks! I used this material for the separator. You may want to try it, test it, see if it will work for you. www.summitracing.com/parts/rjs-30152?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3JanBhCPARIsAJpXTx57UZCzoSrXNaxnfYDxhqW6Mii0s19YOxAByqnVJgoG1o9gInyAVtQaAn-2EALw_wcB#overview
@@soopa2doopa268 That is exactly what i used. Thank you so much. Coming next , clutch and main seal.
How did you loosen the 22-mm hex fitting/nut to open the microswitch end of the pressure cylinder? I can't seem to get a wrench on it securely enough to break it loose due to interference with the nylon switch housing. Thanks.
As I recall, I did use a short wrench and was able to work around the nylon housing.
@@soopa2doopa268 Well I finally got it loose, and want to recount the experience here for the benefit of anyone else encountering the same problem: aluminum to aluminum corrosion, as though the nut and the body were actually welded together. I got the 22-mm wrench squarely on the nut and applied torque, but the corners of the nut started to round off and it still wouldn't budge. I tried impact with a sledge hammer and a punch, again with no success, even after a week of soaking in Liquid Wrench. I finally tried clamping the faces of the nut between the jaws of a large bench vise and turning the valve body with a very large crescent wrench, and that did it. After that, your video was very very helpful--good, clear camera work and commentary. I learned from watching that I had apparently lost the small spring that pushes the sliding white plastic piston in the cylinder, and will either have to find it on the floor with a magnet, or find a replacement. It looks in your video to be a fairly wimpy spring, not difficult to compress, would that be right? Thanks again.
Well done! Tapping on the parts and heating up the area can help loosen the parts, but it is very soft metal, even for aluminum. Using hex sockets can make it a bit easier, too. Yes, the spring was fairly wimpy, but generates enough force to cycle properly. (at least when the mechanism is clean)
@@soopa2doopa268 Thank you for that. I recovered the wimpy spring by trolling the floor with a magnet, and finally got the unit working. You're right about the aluminum material being very soft. Anyone considering working on one of these should be sure to use the exact (metric) sized tools, including the right allen wrench on the check valves.
Thanks for the help, used mine about two weeks ago and it ran fine. Yesterday tried using it to clean the garage and it would not shut off, had to unplug it. Releasing the wand made the machine surge even louder.
i think that would indicate that the unloader valve is sticking and not moving to cut off the motor power. got to get it out and clean it up. check o rings, silicone grease it.
@@rodneykahn6927must have been bad contact in the switch. Nothing dirty, disassembled it and reassembled it and everything works fine now. Thank you
I just watched this, mine just stays on it won't build up pressure.... , I'll be taking it apart tomorrow.
Best of luck! Cleaning and o-rings.
99% sure this was my problem on my Walmart Special. PW ran OK but when the trigger was released it kept trying to cycle on and off. Unfortunately, I could not get that plunger unit out. It was screwed in using a thin nylon nut and bent when turning. Great idea to use nylon! Either thread locker was applied or it was corroded. Into the trash it goes.
Sorry to hear that! The cleaner the manifold walls are the better. This also applies to all of the o-rings. You need a good seal for the back-pressure to push on the spring-loaded plunger that pushes into the switch lever, turning off the pump. Clean well, replace o-rings.
So u took out the plastic piece cause i didn't see it after u stop clicking
Not sure which piece you are describing.
@@soopa2doopa268 I got it working thanks tho
Thanks.
I did a 1990 K1 with 33K miles that sat for 5 years. I didn’t need to change bearings but all the same seals had to be replaced along with the ABS computer.
EBC Rotors are better than stock.
Agreed.
Very clearly explained. I wish that all videos of this type were presented this well! I’m considering purchasing the HF PW to clean my boat. I have a gasoline PW but it’s too much effort for a small job and I don’t need that level of pressure.
Thanks, I'm glad to help. I like that these are so portable, probably the perfect size for your boat.
I jus got it and its doin this🤦🏾♂️
Oh, no. I think if they sit for any length of time, the spring mechanism will stick.
Damn just bought it yesterday and same problem
I bought one today and same problem. Did you guys try cleaning it? Idk if it’s worth the effort with something brand new..
Great video. My K1100 has been laid up over winter. I've tried starting it but the fuel pump is not priming (whirring noise). Any suggestions? The fuse and electrics to the pump are fine
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Assuming the ignition switches and wiring to the fuel pump are ok, I typically check the fuel pump relay input and output voltages (at the relay) during key on. If either is missing, the pump won't function. If both are present, it may be time for a new pump.
@@soopa2doopa268 Thanks....I've now stripped everything out of the tank because I could see perished plastic on the electrical wiring. I've tested the pump direct to a battery and still no noise, so I assume the pump is at fault like you suggest?
To be sure, with the fuel pump disconnected, I also measure the DC voltage at the ring terminals of the fuel pump with the wires pulled well outside the tank, with the test leads insulated from each other, metal and any fuel or fuel vapor. This is how I know if power is actually getting to the pump. I keep the ignition powered off until everything is safe and correct, ready to measure the voltage.
Nice find. Do you think it would be beneficial to run a descaling solution, maybe even some vinegar through it every now and then, or would that be horrible for the o-rings? I use mine so much; I saw they were on sale for $70 last week, I really considered getting another one just as back up.
Sure, that's a good idea. Perhaps elevating it and draining it manually will help, too. Anything to get the water out of the manifold/base.
so you just cleaned it that's it
Cleaned it and changed an o-ring
Amazing work. So thorough for a refresh, I'm shocked. You went through everything! Lucky bike. Thanks for sharing. Great commentary.
Thank you very much! I think the K-bikes are fantastic and worth the effort. It literally pulls and feels like new. Given the miles, ignoring small problems would surely have led to larger problems.
Yes like me mechanic 👨🔧 fix it…
Great clear explanation and camera shots. Well done 👍🏼
Thank you! 👍
Just watching him do this hurt my wallet.
i got a 95 k1100 rs a couple years back... i rode it from philly to ca... on the way out i started getting vapor lock and boiling gas when i was on the eastern plains of colorado... i would have to stop at gas stations and fill up with a new cold gallon of gas every 60 miles or so and sometimes pour water on the tank to get the fuel temp to come down... found out that ethanol in the new gas lowers the boiling point of gas to around 220... with the radiator blowing hot air on the bottom of the tank and the fact that my beemer was a really dark grey and the sun was prolly heating it up... it was such a hassle... later when i got to california i ended up putting some mylar bubble wrap under the tank and got an asbestos heat wrap for the fuel lines... then i just kept on digging and finding lil problems and a week later i ended up buy a bmw r1100rt... i still got both bikes in storage and i like both but the better engine in my oppinion is the k bike... that thing was a cruise missle...
Great job getting it to CA. For hot climates, I've found that a clean radiator + factory coolant + Water Wetter works the best. During the recent CA 100+ days, temps would creep up only after sitting at lights for an extended period. Once moving, doing 30+, all good, normal temps.
Good job
Wauw well done - thanks for sharing!
Thank you! I hope this video helps others keep their bikes on the road.
Holy Shit! This is way more than a refresh; you basically restored it to factory fresh condition, maybe even better. I own a 1994 K1100RS I bought about three years ago with 120.000km on the clock in a good condition and did about 15.000km in it since. So far I had to replace the battery, tires, spark plugs, fuel filter and the radiator fan and also he fork seals were leaking like crazy. None of it was preventive maintenance, all these things actually started to fail. The fuel filter clogged so much that the engine was starved of fuel when demanding power about 4000rpm. The spark plugs did not fail, but their change made a huge difference how the engine behaved with the clogged fuel filter. The previous owner had the bike serviced by a dealership, but the fuel filter being from 2003 and the tires also 20 years old, I think it was well serviced and driven a lot in the first decade of it’s life, but not driven that much in the last two decades and also serviced only when necessary. With the tired I had thr funny situation that the front tire was worn, but I had to replace the rear tire as well because it was so old that I could not find a matching new front tire. Your video made me aware about how many things I might have to replace or refresh. So far everything works, and I just went 1100 km in a day on the Autobahn, going 160-200km/h all the time. Also went full throttle for about two hours, with 220-240 on the speedometer and up to 225 km/h according to GPS. Summing things up: The K-Series is one of the few bikes you can travel also fast on the Autobahn for long stretches and travel distances as fast as by car. A marvelous piece of engineering. And I still marvel at what you did, but as said it also frustrates me a bit to be made aware of what I might have to do at some point. I think the starter might be next, and fuel lines and brake hoses should be probably replaced before they fail or develop leaks. Thnak you for this great video. Pavel
Many thanks! You're right that deeper inspections are required at some point. I had enough "small" issues to warrant the refresh. I like everything about these bikes, except the lack of 6th gear. I imagine the Mona Lisa is imperfect in some way..
You did everything for how much? How many hours did you work for all that work?
Hi, Augusto, I worked on it over the course of 2-3 months. Having stripped it mostly down to the frame, I bounced from area to area as I waited/looked for parts from eBay and the vendors listed in the "credits."
It is always a pleasure to see the increasingly rare skill of craftsmanship and thoroughness being applied to a restoration. It was a very sincere pleasure watching this video and being able to do my small part in contributing with some information on the forks!
Great job guy! That bike has NEVER been that tight in all it's life even when it was new. I really loved seeing all of the incredible engineering that remains hidden usually. This level of rework will of course intimidate people out of doing it usually, but I think your video may inspire a couple of people to go for it. Terrific work man. Seriously, well done.