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@Ian-s4p great idea!

@@bforster2237 they are great heaters. We use ours for camping but much nicer to have the ac/dc converter if power available. I am sure your friend’s shop is much more comfortable now. Thx for watching.

@@Nomaswearefull thx, I thought 10 would be enough but can never be too sure with those heaters.

@@Teriteri22 rattlesnake saloon in Tuscambia Alabama

@@NateMaris So technically both black iron or copper are good choices. Black iron pipe more susceptible to corrosion. As for copper it’s preferred for propane. I went with stainless steel for burner because it’s stronger and less chance of it getting bent or kinked. I knew I was going to be throwing in lava rock plus all the extra hoses etc.. into box for portability and didn’t want any accidental damage on softer copper pipe. The burner is from Amazon and comes in different sizes depending on how large your ammo box is. Onlyfire Stainless Steel Fireplace H-Burner. Will add a link on description soon for it . All connectors are from local hardware store. So there you go, burner can be made out of any materials above. You can now decide which is best for you.

I just checked and I have complete parts list in description. I couldn’t remember if I had included or not. Just above transcript click more and scroll down. Includes burner too. Thx for watching

@ that’s awesome! Thank you for sharing that with me. I got that burner you had listed on Amazon. It looks the best as well. I’ve been digging into all the DIYs on this project and trying to compile what I like best from the different styles I’ve seen and yours has been my fav so far with that stainless burner. Soo clean and like you said…strong💪🏽 killer system and big ups for making the vid✊🏽 I appreciate you bro 🥂

Thx again and hope you enjoy your burner !

@ heck ya! Can’t wait

@@powsnob04 glad I could help, thx for watching and good luck if your building one

@@CGH250 I wasn’t 100% sure but have always been told stories. Thx for the comment.

@@mojomanrosie thx , good to know.

@@gregs2143 haha no but bringing home the point that we all learn things and are not born knowing.

@thehickspanic8646 being a smart ass is in my nature... keep up the content!

@@gregs2143 all good, thx for watching. I appreciate all comments lol

@@9mmtylenol man I feel for ya

@@nolankostka after warranty plan on keeping off. My accord and Toyota same but Nissan took it to new level with quadruple the pins and no access whatsoever . Mainly aimed at teasing designers for silly things they do

@thehickspanic8646 Yeah, engineers and mechanics will probably never get along because of things like this

@@GtrVspecII I agree with ya but since car belongs to my son and it’s under warranty … I just would hate for Nissan to give him grief. You know how they are, one little item off , unrelated and they won’t cover something else . Otherwise, yup it’s trash lol

@@alvarius6868 honestly not sure. I believe those 2 hoses one to front and one to back near throttle body are oil cooler hoses. They are definitely not heater core hose and that’s the only hoses I would feel safe deleting or bypassing . So in my opinion they are worth fixing . Job isn’t too bad just cramped as most Miata jobs are lol.

@@thehickspanic8646 thank you for your response. Yes, that's an oil cooling hose, the only inconvenience I'm encountering is that the aluminum pipe that connects to the hose in my case fell apart rotted due to previous owner used water instead of coolant so now I don't have anything for the hose to connect to, so I was wondering if deleting it would be a good option just like deleting the heater core.

@@alvarius6868 oh gotcha , man what a mess. Yea, like I said not sure what would happen. Above my pay grade on this one.

@@thehickspanic8646 thank you so much. I'll do my research online hopefully someone had a similar issue.

@@fiscalgoose7664 Yes that for sure works too

@@DerekNS74 True, just showing alternatives for those that don’t know. Thx

Woof woof 😂

@@russgould707 thx , I’ve been wondering about that since I didn’t rotate like I should have.

@@Random_hero47 Really? Here I was thinking I needed more psi, but was guessing and wondering what else I was missing. So what was your avg psi you ran and on what size truck? If you don’t mind sharing that

I was running them at 40 psi in my truck. From what I’ve noticed and because I’m guessing bc of the tread design and compound it’s very easy to over inflate them and the outside edge tends to deflect. I see you are driving a Chevy too. Have you changed and cranked your torsion bars up?

@@Random_hero47 truck has a 6inch pro comp lift. Thx for all your comments and advice. I am now running about 29 psi in rear and 34 up front and I guess I really need to stay on top of rotating tires. Will definitely make a video down the road updating on tire wear. Thx again

@@thehickspanic8646 no problem, I’d probably get your camber checked. I had a 04 Chevy short box with a 4 inch lift. I had also changed the torsion bars as well which gave it too much positive camber. Good luck !

@@BrandonReed-cs3lf yea nice areas, we never get tired of those mtns. Hope storm Helene doesn’t mess up those areas too much. Have fun and maybe we will see ya in those mtns one day

Thx

@@jaywhy85 glad it helped, those trailers are really cool and fun

@@COBRO98 good advice , thx

@@DeepwoodGarage glad it helped. As long as caps are sealing good rust probably superficial but if it’s compromised and leaking then bearings will go bad. None are 100% water tight but that is reason to repack and change grease every now and then( recommended 1yr or 12000 miles) I do every couple yrs. I just finished a new video on repacking and doing the bearings as maintenance. Should be out in a week or 2. So stay tuned if you want more detailed info

Not sure about wire issue. My replacement was exact match but as long as it bolts on and wires are correctly placed regardless of location and amperage matches. One can go higher amperage but entire different conversation.

Depends on what suspension changes Jeep made between years. I would assume not too different. My friend got this lift at rocky road outfitters and I would start there. You can get instructions and kit prices prior to purchasing kit. I helped him because he wasn’t comfortable wrenching but if you are or have a friend to help probably just as easy . Took us a few hrs . Good luck and thx for watching

@@HZ4750 at Honda dealer I was told 3.9. But since I don’t have my car perfectly level not all oil comes out so my reason why I do 3.7 or so. If you can get under yours while level and drain well then 3.9. Also, there is a second nut above the drainage one that you open and let drip once full and that lets you know you are perfect no matter how much you add . It lets excess drain and when at good level will either quit or have thin amount of drainage.

@@johnwills4655 thx for watching, glad it helped

@@renderingrocks wish I had done it yrs ago

@@thehickspanic8646 I have a 2005 Tahoe with the other console and the cup holders are designed for massive cups. So everything tips. We also have dodge mini vans and they know how to design cup holders!

@@renderingrocks yes they do. I’ve always said the perfect ride would be a mixture of the good parts from all brands into one.

@@lauracox7972 thank you for the comment. I had to check and yes we were there 2 weeks before Easter, very impressive observation skills. Hickory Nut Falls is one of our favorite places to stay when in that area. Thx for watching and never know maybe we will see y’all around one of these trips.

@@johnF56 the old mill pottery house cafe and grill. Very good food! It’s across from the old mill restaurant and store.

Unfortunately, I don’t. I tried to look it up in my parts history and no luck. If I recall, I bought em online from Mazda and used the online diagrams they sometimes give ya to compare parts. Do shop around different sites cuz they are mighty proud of em on some websites . Sorry, I didn’t have the #s. Good luck, friend.

Well on that trip we did tremont and more well known cades cove next. But I have many more backroads throughout Appalachia mtns., including Georgia , NC and TN. I will put a link to our most recent (few weeks ago) just click the link. ruclips.net/video/FuEullfokAM/видео.htmlsi=huPnc3IpvUv0hDVQ But feel free to browse through the channel lots of different locations and even video type content. Thx for watching, subscribe to channel, it’s free! Take care and maybe we will see ya out there!

Sorry misunderstood question and my wife pointed this out to me ,lol. Here is a rough idea:Not sure if it goes by different names but I was on hwy 32 from Cosby as it turned into gravel it is Mt sterling road on map. There are several roads that would take you to Hwy 40 including the Forrest road that has the river crossing. If you look up chestnut branch trailhead on map, that location is at the crossroads where you see old store after we cross river and road turns to gravel(1 think around 2:30 in video) and that is the gravel road we stayed on that will take you to cataloochee. So go to Cosby TN, turn rt and just stay straight in those roads not turning off. Will eventually get ya there. Fill your tank up and some food and explore my friend!

One more thing, there is more to that valley once there. I was not aware of this on that visit. Keep going on those back roads past that barn and you will find more.

Glad you liked video. The Appalachian mountains are indeed beautiful, thanks for watching

Und die Musik dazu 👍

Honestly not sure but lift is from rocky road.com and I am sure their website would be helpful in determining what kit would work with yours.

Yes!

Thx for watching

No 7.5 will work depending on tire width. I at time had very wide tires and needed the 8s. I would check with tire installer on what wheel sizes will work with your tire size. The 8s give you slightly more options but definitely may will also work very well with 7.5 size.

By the way, I hated the chrome look on the trailer and have since also done a video on (same wheels) taking chrome off

@@thehickspanic8646 I'm going to use some 31" tires I took off my Gladiator, so 7.5 rims should be fine. I want to lower the height of the trailer and reduce weight. Going from 37" to 31" should lower trailer by 3". Thanks for the quick response.

No problem, thx for watching. Just by removing the 37s with run flats and those heavy wheels you taking a good bit of weight off already

Yes, a faulty or non-functioning bcm can prevent a vehicle from starting in some cases. A bad bcm may not be able to recognize the key's transponder chip or send a "start" signal from the ignition switch to the starter

Thanks, I’m look into it need to get a new one(generator battery control module)

Wait , when u said bcm , I was thinking body control module. That sits under dash. Sorry , just realized ur comment and the video. So as for the battery and that module I changed on video, I don’t think it would mess your starting abilities. Only your charging , which in turn does affect ur starter lol. But mostly to do with your battery charging and ur alternator output . Is that what you meant ?

@@thehickspanic8646 I thought it would fix my no crank no start issues honestly. I’m new to this lol. I did get a code f terminal circuit low. Also code u1000. It’s a learning experience for me

New or old we all learning something everyday. First, it’s tough to diagnose without hands in and more info. . The code u mentioned is a communication break down between modules and unfortunately not always an easy one to track without hands on. It can be faulty battery with voltage issues, damaged terminals, disconnected connectors, and damage to the ground connection etc… so could be as simple as a rusty ground wire to an old wire that was cut or disconnected or corroded etc… some mechanics will have more advanced scan tools than you or I and can narrow it down to what module may not be communicating and once they figure that out can track down that section of wires or terminals or even possibly bad module. So you can see where it can be easy to extremely difficult to track. Gotta ask, was it sudden no start and was working before? Do ya live up north where corrosion from road salts is possible on terminals and grounds ? Did ya rework anything new prior to issue with starting? Lot of questions I know. Any of those things above could contribute to that issue. I know u trying to save money but may need to look for trust worthy mechanic with advance scan tool that can go deeper into what modules are communicating and which are not and some electrical wire checking skills, In the end it may be a simple fix like bad ground wire but simple to fix ain’t always simple to find without some hands on. Anyway, look for obvious cut wires or rusty ground connections to chassis but like I said may not be obvious my friend. Let us know what u end up with and hopefully what fixes the issue

Agree! We got some videos from there too. We live in the South so I can’t run to Colorado like I would like. However there’s beauty in every part of the USA.