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Great video, thanks Preston. I've had this model for 20 years. Biggest heap of shit I've ever bought. With that defective sliding fence calibration, it was pointed out to Felder by fellow you tuber Marius Homberger. They adapted his idea and put it into production. You think that Felder would do the right thing and provide this upgrade to all who purchased the K3. The rip fence is different to yours, not sure what its called but again, rubbish. Fence flexes when you make cuts and is hard to manipulate when making different rips. For the money it cost, it would be better suited as a boat anchor. My Delta Contract saw is a million times better. Would never buy anything from Felder again. After sales were horrible. Phew! Feel better now.

When using the straightedge on the outfeed table, how do you correct it if there is a gap between the cutter tooth and the straightedge? How do you adjust the outfeed table if it slopes up/down from the cutter head toward the outer end.

Why is there no transcript?

About your board we know some as spring tentions that make it difficult to get a perfect flat joint 😊 Thank for your video I just changed the cutter for the silence type like you have on your machine so I have to adjust everything. But I try to have the top out feed parallel to the planer one probably not necessary 😊

Dream workshop !

Easy to adjust lateral on the fence! The solid round stock that the fence rides on has two bolts through and you loose the nuts on front and back and adjust the round stock in or out to change the fences lateral adjustment.By pulling the right side of the round stock towards you will bring the fence to the right! A bit of fiddling it’s easy to do.I did it on a ALTENDORF saw which it similar 👍🏾

this is brilliant, just got my first slider and was thinking exactly this! Thanks for sharing!

Can you tell me how much height that adds ie from table base to highest point with the positioner on the table not flipped up out of the way. I have to store my table under my mitre saw table and have limited space. Thanks!!

I have the Woodpecker's coping sled. The problem is that the bit height has to be change between routing rails and stiles. This is unacceptable. This should be fine for stiles, you just have to hold the work piece firmly.

You camera being too close makes me dizzy. Your installation is halpful.

Great video. I am in the process of tuning my K3 as well and I realized I have a hallow in the case iron. I understand this is an older video, but several people here have said they have Hammer K3 machines. When measuring for the cast iron flatness, what sort of tolerance are you guys getting and what tolerance is allowed by Hammer/Felder?

Very well articulated, ty!

The fence is what makes a saw. That being said unless you had the scoring blade installed in that machine there’s no reason to pay the extra cost to own one. And yes I’ve owned one. Got rid of it and picked up a Sawstop.

I have the same until and I bought the extension to the jointer bed. Haven’t found a video on setting it up. I think I did it right, but I’d love to see how you would do it. Thx

Thank you very much for this detailed explanation. On other Felder video I saw that infeed planer roller should be 0.9 mm lower than cutting blade. But what about outfeed?

You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.

I am getting my new K-3 Winner next week.This video will be a giant help!

Parts of your presentation were very helpful. (I own a A3 41 Hammer) However, I need specifics about how to make certain my helical cutter head and the two rollers are calibrated exactly for best function. Felder, so far, has not been any help. I have two project sitting which are for a charity event. Help give me a clearer understanding of how to adjust and set up these three parts relative to the planar bed.If you know where I can get this information I could really use that! Much appreciated!

Just commenting for the algorithm, I want one but it's too large for me. Enjoyed the review.

I feel like old school woodworkers who primarily use hand tools prob frown upon dudes ike u w/shops like yours, oit just has a very yuppie festooly feel to it ........which is fair considering u own virtually every tool/accessory in the rockler catalogue lol.....and full disclosure, I was kinda hoping the table turned out shitty thus enabling me to more easily satisfy the (pathetic) hater in me and give u heaps of shit for churning out crappy builds despite having 30k worth of tools in ur shop. But then u ruined my dastardly plan by making a beautiful table!! Well done, kudos to u sir. I'm off to rethink my use of time. 😐

Does a video exist where someone does an actual calibration on a machine that needs to be calibrated? Watching someone talk about calibration is nice, but I'd really like to see someone perform a calibration.

That is one clean workshop!

Great table! How was the base attached to the top?

Hello Preston, Felder does have a fine-adjust ripfence on the K3 winner and winner comfort lines. Theycan be ordered as an option for your K3 basic as well, you have to change over to another guide rail as well though..

I don't understand what you did. When it came time to adjust the slider to get it parallel to the blade, you skipped past whatever you did in the video. That was the one thing I needed to see! Thanks for the tips on leveling the slide to the cast iron, but how to get it square? You leave us with lower bolt hand-tight, then you discussed your calibration blade, runout on the blade, etc., but never did get to adjusted those bolts to make slider parallel. (Crazy that it doesn't come square, for 5K, eh?)

what lubricant do you use?

Great video. Mine appears to be sticking after I get past the router bit towards the end of the sliding stretch. Any recommendations on that? Or do it not matter since I wont be going past the router bit anyway? Thanks for your advice.

Would be interested to know how you deal with the sliding table being coplanar with the cast top...or do you have the sliding table proud of the cast as felder recommends? When you hand tighten the bolts to get the sliding table parallel does that affect the height?

Great job with this video. How did you figure out what moves what? My manual was a waste of paper...

I know this is an older video, but what Forrest blade do you run?

Super nice.

Heard nothing but reasons not to buy this saw. Thanks for the info! I'll be looking at other saws. This is a clear pass.

easy to understand, thanks for the explanation.

I am astonished that people still even consider buying hammer tools. I’ve been a professional furniture maker for more than 45 years and I am now running a school for fine woodworking. We recently purchased the hammer K3 winner, which really should be called the hammer K3 loser. It has got so many flaws in it that I don’t even know where to start. Obviously the single hand wheel that constantly falls off makes no sense whatsoever. The huge gaping throat around the blade constantly sucks pieces of wood down, thin pieces of wood down into the dust system and clogs it. I have to turn off the saw, open it up and clean it out several times a day. But despite all the flaws with that tool and our flimsy joint hammer jointer, the worst part is really just dealing with hammer. When there’s a problem they say well other machines have that problem so how is that our fault? Have you ever heard a more childish response? And so far seven of our students have bought their machines and not one of them, literally, not one of them has showed up and worked. No problem, for $1000 hammer will send somebody out to fix your brand new machine that you’ve never been able to use. I don’t think I’ve ever been so disappointed in woodworking machines and the company that makes them

dat mic xD

Awesome job.

I get the impression this guy is a machinist.

Hi ,,Getting ready to install one of these ..Are you still maintaining the channel as I have a question if you have a minute

👍👍🇧🇪

Thank you for the great presentation of where the adjustments can be made. Unfortunately for me, I have the same machine and have not had the same quality results. It's too bad everything worked so well in your demonstration and you didn't have to actually make any adjustments to show how you fix snipe or other issues, I would've liked to see you actually make adjustments. When I first got my machine felder/hammer charged me a considerable sum to have a technician come out for several hours to adjust the machine which they said had to be damaged in shipping or something because they send their machines out fully calibrated - that wasn't my situation. The infeed and outfeed tables were out of coplanner and the technician spent a long time adjusting everything. I have had the machine for a little over 3 years and have had problems with feeding lumber through the planner and it hanging up at times or cocking through the planner. The service techs are helpful over the phone, but it seems something goes out of adjustment every few months with the planner. More recently i have been having snipe issues. I think I have it corrected but time will tell. I think I am doing the adjustments right by talking to the phone techs and the snipe goes away but after awhile it comes back - so never sure if I did the adjustments right. The design of having the infeed and outfeed table controlled separately with different lock down handles seems to make a difference for me on the jointer. How tight one handle is tightened vs. the other appears to impact the coplanner of the infeed and outfeed table. If I tighten to much on one table or the other I get back end snipe on the jointer. I loosen up a little on the outfeed table lockdown handle (I am old and not strong) so it isn't real tight to begin with and the backend snipe goes away - telling me the head raised a little above the cutting head and therefore at the fginish of the board it didn't nipe the back of the board. When the machine works well it is a beast, but in my case it is so finicky. It may be something to do with operator error, but having it for three years and it working much of the time and then me needing to start making adjustments leads me to believe the machine tolerances are not as tight as some would believe from a German made machine. This sounds like a bunch of whining and I don't mean to do that - what I would like to see is someone actually make the adjustments to the machine to fix issues like snipe - not just point where to do things but actually how they approach the adjustments. Thank you again.

Hello there ! Thank you for your video. I just have one thing to say. If you need to adjust jointers table, you can touch the screws you show on video, but it's not advised. Thoses screws are only the screws that hold tables on the frame. There is other screws , on each side of the springs (4, used to move tables from left to right) and below and above (4 too, used to move tables up and down) I hope I have been clear. If not, I can take pictures and send it.

Beautiful explanation. Way better than the terrible manual. Thank you!

At 5:07, you mention adjust for toe-out. Does that mean as you push the sliding table past the saw blade the wood is slighly moving away from the blade (left)? And if you use the fence, is toe-out moving away from the blade (right)?

I just got an A3-41 - I'm not really sure how to use the adjustment screws. Loosening all the bolts at once just allows the whole table to fall, not really sure why two adjustment screws are needed (one for front and one for the back). When all the locking screws are loosened where does the table pivot? Tiny adjustments to the set screws are way more than .001" at the leading edge of the table.

Hey Preston! Hope you are well! Wondering if you have ever replaced the planer tables on this machine? Mine were defective and Felder sent me new tables… debating hiring someone or trying it myself!

Another Question: Have you had to replace your start capacitors on your Hammer? Mine is 6 years old and according to the Felder Tech guy the reason my saw will not start (We checked all the inter-connect safety switches) is because the start capacitor has failed

Thank you for posting this, my machine needs a calibration badly. Appreciate it. Subscribed too 👍

It would be helpful to add a section describing how to actually adjust the outfeed table, not just measure it.

I bought a second hand 2008 model which is slightly different to adjust. No manual to be found even after contacting felder. This video helped immensely despite the differences. Thanks so much!

Spot on, thanks!