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your piece would work well on a square or out of round part

we run the steady rest the best it will run then center drill while adjusting the steadiest to center, then turn a pad , re center drill or best it to taper with the compound

Search for 'digital linear scale with remote display' or similar, there are many to chose from, and they are affordable.

Very nice work mister. Good idea. Very true that small victories helps your day improve. He he.

Very nice work mister. Good video

No frills great content. I'm very impressed with your lathe bed extension. I can hear/see you've tons of shop experience. Sub'd. Catching up to do. Cheers Tony

Benno - You obviously had to index the socket . You're holding out on us . I'm upset - I wanted to see the indexing . You are a Bad Boy . --- Jim

The joy of using an enroundening machine. 😊

Sir, if I can be honest with you, make a video. Please. You want my subscription then give me a video to watch not these shorts.

Good one . I am just in the middle of fitting a dro to my Bridgeport , long overdue ! 👍

I ran many production machines with 4 jaw chucks for 40 years. This video is way too much talking and now indicating the part in.

looks good

Totally understand the struggle. My Abene mill is all curves and hardly has any flat spots on it for mag base indicators. Putting a DRO on it is on the "to do" list.

I used a similar method on the CNC Mill i used to run.. but "hosing it down" with Coolant just after machining brass or bronze works just as well.. i mounted a quick-release hose to the Coolant supply before the ball valve so i could shut off the coolant nozzles.. On my lathe i have a second coolant line, which i can clamp to a magnetic base, but when cleaning the machine, i take it out of the clamp and hose down the machine.. then dry it with a rag before turning brass or bronze..

Neat! Very useful tool for old school accuracy. 👍

Couple hundred bucks on ebay and you can get a chinese DRO kit. Someone with your skills could install it in a day. I've done a couple on a couple mills and a couple on a couple lathes and they absolutely transform the functionality of the machine. One day of work and a couple hundred bucks and you don't have to fuss with indicators like this ever again on that machine.

Yep once you get into 12" or larger chucks a lifting lug is definitely needed.

Love the tool post/ dial gauge holder. So simple, so smart.

Ha! None of my chucks are big enough to warrant the lifting hole. Although even an 8” chuck is starting to get on the heavy and “easy to smash the ways and fingers up” side. 😊

also for covering you with oil thanks for all your vidios

Please keep the videos coming. Your content is very interesting. Don’t worry about the camera work.

Thats a lot of leverage. How about a making a 12-foot-long gin pole to stick on the fork to suspend the shaft in the middle?

When runing such an over length job, presumably you can only machine the chuck end of the prop. shaft. Do you leave spare material to hold in the chuck?

Good idea, but I find what I see at 3:37 VERY disturbing. Please don’t film before you have removed the eyelet from your chuck! Remember: There are amateurs watching, they might learn a very bad practice.

Benno - Those shafts are respectable sizes . I'm impressed with you projects . Your equiptment is not equal to the task . But you are resourceful enough to get it done . Two Thumbs up . --- Jim

But what about CNC. Brrrrrr. Manual machining is stupid and old. Thats what i get all day. Screw that. Manual machining is beautiful.

And that is why i recommend using oil as coolant... No need to ever bother with drying the machine, with potential coolant creeping into crevices and rusting the surfaces where it can remain unseen for long enough to it`s deviltry... Plus - oil don`t go bad, nor does it really suffer from additional way oil that it washes off... You just change it after a while, but it doesn`t go rancid nor does it ever really stop shielding from rust, plus, the chucks can now be bathed in ``coolant`` and neatly ignored thereafter, as they won`t rust from it... I know that emulsion is a better coolant in thermal sense, but flood oil reduces friction and thus reduces the need for cooling to a degree, plus it offers better surface finish for the same reason... Literally the only ``flaw`` of oil as coolant is the fact that it is lesser in regards to active cooling it can provide, but on the other hand - it does not generate fucking steam and moisture in a shop, but oil vapors, which neatly coat the whole shop and all the machined surfaces that are not behind a hermetic seal... And if you want to say that that is bad, as you inhale oil fumes - motherfucker, are you aware that you are inhaling micro particles of whatever stock you are machining whenever you do it dry? That you inhale so much different crap in a shop that you should by all means wear a full face mask with filters whenever you are working in the shop anyway, especially when machining inox or chrome rich alloys(hot work helps hexavalent chromium to be released, and if you don`t know why that is bad - think zinc fume fever but Erin Brokovich...)... I know that this turned into a schizo rant, but alas, such is the way of things... You get the point, what is said was said in a figurative manner rather than being meant as an insult, yet what was said stands from the technical standpoint... I do get feisty about ``shop safety`` as it is a PSA worth putting out there, but i have written literal essays on that topic in comments when it was appropriate to do so, so just the thought of being told that oil fumes are bad - in an environment that offers so much MORE BAD is kind of a thing that i want to dodge straight away... It`s kinda like saying to someone with a few weeks to live that something is dangerous - like, no shit sensei, teach me more, oh wise one... Plus, you can always filter that gucci through a cigarette - works like a charm... Also - which oil? - hydraulic non-detergent oil if you wanna give the old girl the best... The same that an olden automatic lathe would use... Anyways, let`s cut that rant short... Good work, nice to see a machine operator that is also a care-taker aswell, given that these machines deserve the fucking best, being that they were made to outlast humanity if someone is willing to take care of them properly... Best regards! Steuss

I’m subscribing just because of the Fred Dibnah reference! He’s a bit of a legend over here! 🇬🇧 and if he was alive now I’m sure he’d be spending his evenings watching matching videos too!

Modern four flute endmills can be plunge cut.

200mph tape! Haha

That's how I've always done it.

Love your videos, very informative. I was wondering about the brush stuck on top of the cutting tool. Is that for deflecting chips to the left?

looks good

That would be "Jack Armstrong" Continues Cast 👍

Ah - this illustrates very nicely what you meant with the pitch of the jaw screw, and how to use that. Very good. I like.

Did not expect to hear Fred Dibnah mentioned. He was a character. I typically attach my indicator holder to the top of the cross slide. I figure if it isn’t moving that should be OK - any flaws in my approach there? I do run my indicator at the 12 o clock position. I’m typically only making small items so I move two opposing jaws at the same time with a chuck key each. I don’t think I’d want to do that with a heavy part like this though.

I think you'll find the top of the vee on a lathe bed is not in contact with the carriage vee?

Benno - I never though about it - I always indicated the conventional way. I really like the Twelve O Clock Indicator method . Who said you can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink . " I'm drinking Sucker " Thanks for the education . -- Jim

Benno - I never though about it - I always indicated the conventional way. I really like the Twelve O Clock Indicator method . Who said you can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink . " I'm drinking Sucker " Thanks for the education . -- Jim

Master

Outstanding❤

Clever :-)

Got to love those Starrett #98's. I picked up an 8" from a tool seller at a flea market several years ago.

Oh yeah, the T handle is a great thing - especially those that have a strong spring and a ball or similar design to give resistance to the sliding of the rod... I don`t like a free floating rod, but a rod that stays in place during spinning or even when you extend it out for max torque - oh yeah, those are good! A good wrench is great, but generally, a socket and a breaker bar or a socket and a T-handle are so much more versatile and effective(and less abusive towards both the nut(in majority of cases) and the operator...) in most cases... Also, imbus sockets, the large ones make for excellent custom keys and wrenches when you have access to a lathe and/or a mill - depending on what you need to make outta them... The triple-square sockets also fit the square headed bolts on machines and machine components/accessories(vises, toolposts and similar) - being just a star made by three overlapping but offset squares... That make a long triple-square socket with a long extension and a t-handle an ideal vice tightening mechanism, unlike those dreck cnc solutions that people buy into... My Rohm mill-vise nicely fits the long 18 triplesq. socket... Best regards! Steuss

Toolmakers make tools, that is what we do..

Just added a sub as this channel looks v good.

👍🏻

How about just saw the corners off and then turn it?

People don't talk about steady rests because they are obsessed with the spindle bore of a lathe. They buy oversize lathes that allow them to shove 120mm shafts through the headstock. Unfortunately they don't reallise they loose control of the shaft. The other issue is the lathe is then, generally to big for their more typical work so it sits there underutilized taking up capital and consuming opex. Thanks for sharing.

Handy little universal wrench.