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@@BrianMiller-f5v LEDs last a long time on paper. But if one does go out, you can put new LEDs in. No need to buy a new door. The method of replacement will depend on the door you buy and how they configured the LED wiring. It may require splicing wire or have a socket. I have bought doors that had light sockets and some just hard wired. I haven't lost any LEDs yet.

@@BrianMiller-f5v Yes, it does. I have full length tutorial videos also on my YT channel for this.

@@bulls6pack hey there. To be honest...I do not remember since I replaced mine. I know some folks will do this mod by flipping the panels on cabs that are black on both sides (not sure which ones have black on both sides) . I chose to replace the panel so if I wanted to revert to stock...I could do so. I have since sold my NBA Jam...so no longer have it to check. You may want to ask on the Arcade1up & Modding fb group.

@@cmdell4693 If you look on my RUclips channel, I made a couple of videos after this for NBA Jam and Tron. In those, I actually show the wiring diagram of how I did it and go into more detail. You can jump on my discord if you need some more help...happy to assist.

@@9scorpions Thank you I will check them out, I have not bought a cabinet yet but I am doing some pre planning before I do!

@@cmdell4693 nice! Which cab are you thinking to get?

@@9scorpions So it was the Flame edition of the Street Fighter cab, just looking into potential mods for the coin door and such before I really commit to anything!

@@cmdell4693 right on. 👍

It is one of my favorites too!

Thanks! I actually sold a bunch of them, but Tron was not one of them. That one is my favorite :)

@ChadAlanHeath hello there! No donation necessary. Take a look at this in my other video as I go into more detail on how it is wired. Note this link jumps to that part: ruclips.net/video/p793WURSaJY/видео.htmlsi=u5J4H0G4IWSwc20x&t=500. Additionally, a couple minutes later into that video I am showing myself wiring up the coin door. The following link jumps straight to that: ruclips.net/video/p793WURSaJY/видео.htmlsi=Yxl41KDLECoQJ3Fo&t=659. Happy to help with additional details...if you want you can jump onto my discord where we can discuss further. Would be great if you can share some details of what you are working with in the discord so I can help you further: discord.gg/RDmMAwWh

i got it completed eearlier today@@9scorpions but thanks though. there for a while i thought it was gonna be a pain about like the cherry master i completely rewired. Thanks again

Actually it was another one of your videos that i watched to figure it out. the video on arcade 1 up nba jam coin doors and 4 coin acceptor video. thanks

@@ChadAlanHeath awesome!

@R3LAPS3productions so I have seen many people splicing a 110V outlet into the back of their cab. I was not excited about doing that, so I simply drilled a hole large enough to pass the plug end of a power strip through (used the original power cord hole as the starting point. Inside of each of my cabs is a standard power strip and the only cord coming out the back panel is that power strip plug to the wall. Everything within the cab plugs into that power strip that is sitting inside (cab power supply, coin door lights, back panel and floating riser LEDs, etc). I then put a smart plug on the end of that power strip going to the wall. That way when I enable that smart plug, the whole cab turns on and off collectively (cab, lights, coin door lights, etc). Not only does it keep the setup clean, but also ensure the cab has surge protection and if I ever need to get to any of the connections, I simply open the coin door and it is right there. Let me know if this clears it up or you need more context. Happy to share. Cheers!

Here is a link to the grommet I used after drilling out the hole in the rear panel. Not required, but makes the setup a bit cleaner. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M699WN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@9scorpions sounds simple enough I tried a smart plug before but had some issues. What smart plug are you recommending?

@@R3LAPS3productions Long answer...I don't know that there is one in particular I would recommend. I have roughly two dozen smart outlets that I used throughout my house and arcade. I bought any switches that used the Smart Life app (once I started with that app...I made sure any additional plugs used that app also), but the ones I bought aren't even available any more. You definitely don't want to buy multiple that run on different apps. The reason I cannot directly recommend hardware using that Smart Life app is because it looks to not be so popular now and it seems harder to find hardware that is using that app. You have to decide if you are just getting a one-off plug or plan to add more over time. If a one-off, then I think any of the smart outlets on Amazon with good reviews would be fine. If you intend to buy several and more in the future, then look for ones that use the same app most frequently. That is the downside to the smart plugs. Not only do you need an app...but they require internet to work properly. If your internet goes out, they will not work (even though your WIFI still has them all connected). I have seen ways to crack them so that you can disconnect from their required network comms...but I have not gone down that path. With all that said, below is an example of one to look at. Govee also makes LED strips...so you got a better chance of continuing to find products supporting their app. Ensure you get one that is rated for 15A and try to get the rectangle ones. The round plugs in many cases will not go into sockets next to each other as the body of the plug is too large. The rectangle ones allow you to put them into sockets next to each other on the wall or on a power strip. Sorry for the long answer :) www.amazon.com/Govee-Bluetooth-Assistant-Schedule-Certified/dp/B0948ZZZJP/ref=sr_1_18_sspa?crid=2CASI35NPTLYD&keywords=teckin%2Bsmart%2Bplug&qid=1704548586&sprefix=techin%2Bsmart%2Bplug%2Caps%2C84&sr=8-18-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1

@@9scorpions thank you for taking the time to go through all the process. It's a bit to take in and I'm sure to type out as well so thank you again! You did a great job explaining everything and appreciate your time not only for the detailed reply but also the efforts making the video too. I will do my best to follow what you have instructed. I wish A1U would make things easier for us customers at times. I think the only other option I would have is to buy an actual arcade power supply box and wire everything to that power supply. At least that way I would actually feel safe going that route. However, your method seems much easier tho.

No problem!

It's unfortunate too. I think I recall them being around $45 back in 2020. You can shop the used market, but usually they are beat up pretty bad.

You are correct. Did they do any other cabs that have that or is it just TMNT? I am not aware of any others.

@@9scorpions I'm not sure if it works on turtles in time. It doesn't work on the countercades.

Thank you!

hey there! If you are asking could it be done, for sure it can. If you are asking if I do these mods as a service...I do not. One of the community vendors such as Tulsa Arcades (www.tulsaarcades.com/#/) is likely your best bet if you want to have it done to one of your arcades.

I have had multiple requests to do this mod as a service...might happen one day!

@@9scorpions I have a Vewlix Cabinet

@@lvstream720 nice! I had not heard of those...but was just looking at it online. How do you like it?

thanks!

Hey Jared! You could if you wanted. For me, it is just the experience of dropping in quarters. I am always trying to see how far I can get in each game on one quarter...as that is what my childhood was like.

@@9scorpions gotcha. some friends of mine wanted to add arcades to their business without paying too much for a machine. 1UpArcade would be in their range. thanks for your help

@@JaredScott Got it. I think the only real challenge is that they are multicades...so either they put it on one game and leave it or need to show the customers how to use the menus. I think the former is the way to go. Load the primary game up and keep it there. I have some other videos that are detailed install videos...FYI. Cheers,

hey Nick! It will depend on the specs of the LEDs you are using (including the color used). Do you have specific LED in mind? We can calculate the resistors needed, but I would recommend buying a small LED kit with the limiting resistors already in place. This is the one I used in the video install and the resistors were already installed under the heat shrink tubing: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G4XCQSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That kit is overkill, but could support many cabs as well depending on your needs.

Additionally, here is a resistor calculator: theengineeringmindset.com/led-resistor-calculator/

Hey Castle Ranch! Thanks for subbing! It already had the black finish. The boards are black on one side and white on the other. I think I have links for the exact panel on my NBA Jam video (in the video description)

@@9scorpions AWESOME!! Thanks so much.

@@castleranch738 no worries! If you have any other questions or need help, let me know. Happy to help. Cheers!

Much appreciated! If you have any questions when you get there, hit me up here. Happy to help. Cheers,

@@9scorpions I appreciate that. Thank you.

LOL. 100% spot on. I would prefer to leave it on original Pacman...but that one doesn't have any attract sounds. And you are also right...SPM hardly gets played...lol.

hey Matt, thanks for the comment! After doing quite a few of these now, I have found that wobble is a thing if you are applying on thicker carpet or any surface that is flexible. If you have thin carpet, hardwood, etc...then there is no wobble once you adjust the feet. But thicker carpet may not get enough weight on all four corners and have some wobble. Consider this for your application. If you do have thick carpet or are experiencing wobble, one avenue to compensate is to add weight to the cabinet (ie something inside it). Additional weight on these generally light cabinets can help (even on the stock feet) and keep them from sliding around. Lastly, adding gasket material between the riser and cab can also eliminate the cab shifting on the riser. You can use the factory screws for this, but I never use those. Gasket material works great. Hope this helps! Cheers,

Thanks!

Thanks! My earlier videos are not so great. Like anything else, you get better with practice. Cheers!

Hello there! If you are referring to what happens by dropping in quarters during game play (before a continue screen), it will just add credits. If you mean something else, plese elaborate.

What happened to your spinner?

@@9scorpions Ha. You were responding as I was updating. 🙂

@@9scorpions If you didn't catch the update, I watched the Tron video. Did you use a similar jumper shown connecting the two panels to connect the cabinet LEDs with the Riser LEDs? It seems like there was a lot of wasted LEDs if you were using 16.4 foot strand only for the riser, but that it should be enough for both. I hadn't thought about jumping them like that before.

@@MrBluesMessiah Yep, I used a jumper to connect the riser LEDs to the back panel LEDs. I have done this mod with 16.4ft LED kits on 8 or 9 cabs. Usually I have 6" or so of LED's left over. You are spot on that a 16.4ft kit is overkill if you are only going to do the riser. However most kits with LED controllers and WIFI enabled are kits with 16ft or more. I keep my left over strands of LEDS and can build a "new kit" if you will...then you only need to source a LED controller.

@@MrBluesMessiah Also, using a jumper from the back panel to the riser makes it easier when you need to move the cab. You can still separate the cab from the riser by just disconnecting the jump (ie it is not hard wired).

@@9scorpions Yep. I've never tried that yet, but think I'm going to give it a shot. I'm not too bad with a soldering iron. Brilliant idea.

Thank you!

hey Keno, thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately I do not offer services of any kind. May I suggest reaching out to community vendors such as DIYRetroArcade www.diyretroarcade.com/ or Retro530 www.retro530.com/. They may offer this sort of service. My install tutorial does not require soldering...but you would need a crimping kit and spade connectors.

hey there! Here you go: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G4XCQSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note that this link is for a "kit". If you can find a cheaper kit with just white LEDs, go with that. Make sure though that they come pre-wired with current limiting resisters built in. Either way, you get down to the cost point where you will pay more for shipping to get discrete LEDs than the LEDs are worth. So these kits are not a bad deal if you plan to mod multiple cabs.

Thanks!

Thanks a lot!

Thanks 👍

You're welcome!

@@9scorpions Question? I’m would like to upgrade the LED in my Arcade1up marquee. I don’t know much about wiring, voltage, resisters, etc. Can the Arcade1up PCB support more LED?

@@AnthonyVitale Hey Anthony...hope all is well. Standard USB ports can supply 500mA of current. However that is an assumption about the hardware in these cabs. But with that assumption and if you were using 20mA LEDs (or less)...you likely could supply 20 or so LEDs. I would imagine if you exceed its current limit...then you would start to see dim LEDs. Another option here is to put a splitter on the 12V power supply going to the PCB. You can then get 12V from the brick and will not have any problem supply current for a marquee. I have multiple cabs wired this way with aftermarket marquees.

@@9scorpions I'm doing very well! Thank you. Could I use the existing Arcade1up wire for the marquee? That’s 12V? Could that handle more LED? I opened up my Arcade1up marquee it has 6 LED. Possible to double it, 12 LED?

@@AnthonyVitale Pretty sure those are using 12V. If so, then it should be fine to add more LEDs to. The power brick being used for these cabs supply way more current then needed. Are you buying an aftermarket marquee from one of the community vendors? If so, they are accustom to this sort of thing and likely will provide the wiring or have the option to purchase the needed wiring. Please understand that I cannot reply with any certainty as I am not working directly on your cab. Are you replacing the Simpsons marquee or which cab are you working on?

Hey Joe, thanks for watching and the comment! Since this has a vertical monitor, upgrading to a 20" would likely be challenging as most of the real estate within the bezel is already consumed by the 17" vertical monitor they used. If this was a horizontal machine and monitor, then the upgrade to 20" is more doable. Based on my quick check, not sure you can even go to a 20" vertical monitor without heavy modifications as it would stretch beyond the bezel area (or consume it all). So now I am interested also...will keep an eye out if I see someone else post about this. Did you buy this cab? This is by far my favorite one so far.

Thanks Gerry, much appreciated!

Thanks!

Thanks for the comments! I am interested in the S mode also...but it will have to wait for round 2. Which 10" screen did you go with?