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This really helped. Thank you so much. I got this from a friend and I am trying to update it. Last update before this was 2019!! You're the best. The fruits of your labor are still harvesting!!!

Very useful. Thank you.

How big were the extruding pegs?

This ware very clear and helpfull. Thank you!

Thanks ordered one!

Dude I love your crystal clear teaching approach. You are so under-rated on this platform!

what rubber like filament can I use that isn't flexible? Like a hard rubber that won't snap because when I use plastic it snaps for the part i'm making if I pull too hard

If you're willing to stick to BambuLab filament, printing is a piece of cake even with TPU. All BambuLab filaments print really well in their printers (engineering filaments need to be enclosed of course) and you don't need to know Jack squat about profiles and settings. I mean that's the reason most of us choose BambuLab. It will set everything for you. At least the X1C will.

Nice

will the part be able to be used publicly? i do not know how to make the connecters.

This vidio is just what I needed to show me how to put both holes and pegs on my bricks. Thank You. J.R

thank you :)

I am new to not only printing but my bambu p1s so thank you for this. Print by object instead of layer i had not seen before

Thanks for an excellent video. But I wonder if there will be many problems when printing.? What are the most common errors?

👍👍

Hi ! really nice video and I learned a few things watching this ,,,thanks

That print to object is a great solution!

Just set grid number and move with arrow keys

"This is just a routine exam." 🤣🤣🤣

wow a genius of cad love it.

Thanks for sharing!!!

what if you want to move it 20.3mm?

thank you teach me

Wow! You just answered about a dozen Onshape question I had. Including, of course, my main question of how to add pegboard hooks to an object. Thank you so much. Your explanation was super clear. This was incredibly helpful!

Question this of getting one between A1 to carbon using TPU. Was it hard to use TPU in your machine or I should get A1

at 6:20 the diagram appears to be backwards and would use caution using this for reference.

Thank you for your video. The steps are very easy to follow, but my printer isn't cooperating. When I insert the SD card and then turn on my printer, the screen is just solid blue. Do you have any idea why this is happening?

This was one of the best tutorials that I’ve found on OnShape. Thank you very much for sharing.

you missed flush into infill

You can print tpu on the textured plate 😂 just cause it dosnt say it on it, dosnt mean you can’t use it 😂😂😂😂 Literally hundreds of tpu prints on my textured plate!

at ender 3 v1 its one of the easiest filament to print.. so in bambu?

Thanks a lot for this!

can you please do a finesse of TPU setting video yooooo

great exercise thanks!

That’s not a dirty secret, everyone knows about it.

So how many "clappers" do you have ? 😉

Thank you so much you save my life ! :P

Is it possible to connect only Panda Touch screen instead the original screen? Maybe in the same place?

Help! I can not find the firmware for my CR-10 s5 as per the instructions. Can anybody point me to it? The board is V2.2. Thank you!

Pro tip: if you’re trying to export a super complex object, and it seems likes it’s hanging up and working forever, select the object and save it as a custom object first. Once you do this, you can select that custom object under your shapes and place it on the work plane and then export it. The reason for this, I think, is because when you make it a custom object, you can no longer break it into its previous core objects and ultimately is much less information for the application to process which allows it to work infinitely faster. I love Tinker, I think it’s a massively underrated tool, especially since it’s free. Once you learn a few small tips like this it really becomes a very power tool 😎

when i load tpu into my p1s it just jams up the extruder and clicks A LOT while trying to pull filament and then just clogs... any tips 0.4mm noz

Heya there’s a new motherboard that the ender 3v2 comes with now it’s the 4.3.1 and I was wondering if I can boot a new firmware on it. I did some research and it says that I can load 4.2.2 versions of the product. Can u tell me if it’s right?

Thank you so much for this. My printer suddenly starting thinking the bed and nozzle were 300Degrees instantly after start up. I also knew the nozzle thermostat was only a few weeks old so it shouldnt be that. My only other thought is that something on the motherboard is failing if it's happening to both. I know nothing about motherboards and was worried this would require soldering. I'm glad it doesn't and your visuals were really helpful make me feel comfortable with trying this. :)

I hook mine up to the computer by WiFi sit on my desk .

A very informative video, thanks for sharing. One question... which fan is it that you plugged into the mainboard power terminals?

One way you can end up with a lot of unnecessary waste with AMS is improper orientation of your object. The purge tower on the prepare page might show the purge tower going to the top of the build area, but after slicing, it only extends to the last filament swap, so if you can keep those filament swaps as low to the build plate as possible, you minimize how much filament must be used to build that tower. If you're designing your own parts, you can either design them to work this way, or cleverly split the model into interlocking parts to take advantage of this. This one is a little bit niche, but another option that I've found somewhat useful is setting the "interlocking depth of a segmented region" under the advanced settings in the others tab to something near your desired shell thickness. It doesn't reduce waste, and can even increase it, but that may also result in a small reduction in the total amount of filament used. The plate I'm printing now went from 138.09g to 137.20g of total filament used, despite a tiny increase of 0.03g of waste (number of filament swaps was unchanged). I find it helps on otherwise single color models that I've used the color painting tool on, because Bambu Studio seems to extend those colored sections pretty far into the model, replacing parts of the sparse infill with several more perimeters. This option restores the sparse infill on alternating layers by limiting the depth of the color by what you specify here, which helps a bit. I think this option is intended to help with problems with adhesion between different colored materials, which I've never had a problem with, and the filament reduction is an unintended side effect.

I really think you have a responsibility to your viewers to tell them the truth about bamboo lab can break this at any point or that you might have to choose a firmware that does not allow you to go back to basic. And you void your warranty by using it.

Really great tips and concisely presented! Thank you very much for this video :)

This is an informative, funny and entertaining channel. I've subscribed.

I wanted to get one of those after they added some more abilities that were not present at the time but in over 300 hrs of printing I have touched the buttons 3 times. I use the Bambu studio and just use that. If I have to stop a print I do it through my iPhone handy app. I have touched my X1C 12 times in 400 hrs of use mainly to Close after print screen . Other wise I do not even need any screens on them at all, this is if you use your computer. Strange but true.