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Thanks for the kind words. Yeah, the engine hoist worked great. I picked up the motor yesterday. Beginning teardown today.

Thanks for the kind words, friend. Do you have any specific preferences for what you’d like to see in the future?

@@MattMelts don't take it on heart but i dont like casting i love ingots pouring ingots is the best thing in melting community i like some casting but i just love ingots your ingots are so good looking and thank you for this ingot video and make it big small videos are not fun anymore just love your melt

wait, what is a PAM? is it a device or something?

@davidwarda5616 pretty sure he means the cooking spray, release agent for metal pans

It’s not nearly as economical, at least to the consumer using it. They do make coil driven furnaces, they usually do not heat up nearly as much as propane will. Great for smaller jobs but something this big or bigger would require 220v or higher.

@SpartanJRT3 yeah I know. But you can generate high voltages. And no, it doesn't need to be 220v or higher, and no, propane is not efficient and bad for environment. Induction heaters are more effective and efficient than gas.

@SpartanJRT3 also yes, they do heatup. In fact, induction heating is the efficient and effective way to heat metals. For aluminium you don't need 220v AC. And you can definitely get 220v or higher by driving it up to high speed, as I have observed

After running out of propane twice in a week, I’m going to get an electric furnace as a secondary option.

@@MattMelts that's a very amazing and perfect decision and option. well done. propane is not that efficient, and electric metal heater is the best. good on you for choosing a more precise and healthier option.

that's good hint and suggestion. he should also add salt to the metal too so that there are no wrinkles or holes after melt and solidify.

I do, but usually on brass/copper and not much on aluminum or zinc.

@@MattMelts oh ok. so you use induction heating on Brass and copper, or are you talking about salt in aluminum?

I meant using cardboard under the crucible, and I will definitely try the salt.

@MattMelts good. That's very good. Because salt prevents oxidation and wrinkles forming into aluminum after cooling down.

It’s aluminum and copper. Approximately 30% aluminum.

@@MattMelts I make aluminium bronze with 95% copper and 5% aluminium. Comes out a lovely golden colour!

There’s a reason those motors sat for months.

I agree with that 100%. But, the texture on top of the ingot looks very much like brass. The liquid metal in the crucible looked like copper. It's all good, I have a mystery ingot now :).

@@MattMeltshave you cut into the ingot to see if the colour is all the way through or just on the surface

@jaykaygxd8497 I figured it out. One of the stators had copper coated aluminum wire in it. Had to rewatch the video a couple times, but it’s the 3rd stator I disassembled.

thats alloy looks a little nordic gold to bronze so mayby somewhere in between

I do, I have a pile growing. Every penny counts. 😀

@@MattMelts best way my guy

Yep…that’s brass.

It was actually pretty lucky. All I did after picking it up was brush it off in water. Probably the best result I've ever had.

Thanks!

I thought about it. There were so many things that went right and wrong on this handle. It rained while I was melting, the zinc found a gap and leaked a lot but it still filled the mold. I appreciate the comment, hope you have a great week.

Thank you so much. I'll look into this and correct it, if possible. I really appreciate you letting me know!

You made a great suggestion, and I ran with it. Turned out great! I agree with the camera angles, I’m learning as I go. 😀

I will be doing some lost PLA videos soon, too.

Did it? I rarely use that scale, hence the dust. I’ll have to rewatch that part. Thanks for the heads up!

Thanks for the kind words! The handle video is processing now and will be online Monday. Let me know what you think!

The design is somewhat symmetrical, but the back (round thing) is wider than the rest of the axe head. This causes it to not sit flat. I think you're suggesting splitting the width of the axe head down the middle lengthwise, so the top and bottom of the casting flask get half of the axe head. This would likely work, but I'm not sure it would change the result much. I did it this way because I have been experimenting with different methods of creating molds, and this was a good template to test this out. Your suggestion is definitely the proper way to do it, and I think I even said something like this (video text) in a previous video. My exact words were "nobody would suggest doing it this way, but here goes". Despite that, I think this turned out pretty well, and I had fun making it. 😁

I should note that I don't claim to be an expert or anything. I'm definitely a student of this craft, and my channel is me documenting my journey.

www.ebay.com/itm/204472503406?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iobnf1h6stc&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=1u2tVx03RQ6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@MattMelts thank you for sharing that.

@kennethwilliams1390 no problem. It’ll take a week or so to get to the states. 100% worth it.

Oh, that's a great idea for a rotating table. Thank you so much for that suggestion, and for watching!

Maybe, I’ll try to pay attention and hopefully we’ll know soon. Thanks for watching, and for the kind words!

I appreciate it! This was fun to make.

Thanks, friend!

Thank you! Wait until you see what I'm working on today...😁

I appreciate the input. I’m going to attempt it via lost-PLA and see how that does. Any suggestions on “old molders”?

@@MattMelts investment casting gets you around those undercuts too, that ought to work. To sand cast it, you *might* find some of those old molder's tricks in books like C.W. Ammen's Complete Handbook of Sand Casting or the US Navy foundry manual which can be found easily and browsed online for free. Old metal casting books might be your best bet, not too many old timer pros left molding parts by hand sadly. These days guys making molds in "real" foundries just get trained how to use the molding machines for the most part. There is one RUclipsr I can think of who often uses loose cores to get around unusual draft angles and undercuts. A true master, he might give you some helpful ideas for molding this piece in sand if you ever do want to revisit it. I can't remember his channel name rn but I'll come back and drop it for you in another reply shortly. Meanwhile IIRC luckygen1001 has a greensand cores video that touches on the same idea. I used a loose core in a sand rammer casting video but I'm really just a hobbyist with delusions of grandeur, those other guys can do it a lot more proficiently than me. Keep on mind I haven't had a real close look at the aide of your pattern that has the undercut - It may be that molding it in sand still isn't doable even with loose core(s).

Found the video I was thinking of. Hopefully YT will let me post these links... ruclips.net/video/f_4htsii6N8/видео.htmlsi=sU4J5Xf5z_5Xkpy0 @d.laszlo has lots of other great molding videos showing the same advanced technique. I think he's using greensand for the main body of his molds, but the loose cores look like petrobond to me. Here's an even better example done all in greensand, this guy is really one of those old molders I was talking about, a true master: ruclips.net/video/5NeAjVrfvxA/видео.htmlsi=6FIo0KgLduyVyhR8

Thanks man!

I was thinking the same thing about making more than one. That is on my list of planned projects now, so definitely check back, friend. Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

Thanks!

You're 100% right, it took a lot of willpower to not turn this into a comedy video. My wife saw me sanding and asked what I'm doing, "I'm polishing these nuts!". The jokes write themselves sometimes.

It's a very good video it must have been very hard to not make it into comedy.

That’s solid information. I have heard that some melters will spray their templates with clear acrylic paint because it keeps sand from sticking. I’ll have to try both.

Georgia Boot, men’s 9” Logger CT.

The arch takes a bit to get used to, as it tips your foot forward and down. But, absolutely waterproof to the lower shin.

housershoes.com/georgia-boot-men-s-9-inch-wp-ct-amp-lt-logger-low-heel-2-c.html

@@MattMelts You're the absolute best!

@@kyleoleary3017 Thanks for the kind words, friend. I appreciate you!