Видео

I think the shock absorber mount is the same there. There are only two connectors, on the adjustment at the bottom and on the preload at the top. But I'll see if it's worth making a video again :)

Hey! Yes, batteries are a problem! If the battery is a bit low or old, it doesn't have enough starting current to turn the engine. That's because of the big cylinders and the high compression ratio. Or do you have one that cranks but won't start? Sometimes it has helped me to push the bike back and forth with the gear engaged to move the piston, then it will start. But that trick doesn't work in the dirt.

@D-Stealth I think my issue is battery related. The lithium isn't recommended for cold storage, even says so on the package, but an option for summer. It is very light, not even 1kg versus nearly 4kg for stock lead battery. My SAS is parked in storage with no heat/electricity so I pull battery off (a minor pain) and trickle charge. I will try rocking bike in gear to see if that helps.

@@scottieray Well, you really need to rock the bike hard to get the crankshaft to turn a little. About the weight savings, is it really worth it for just a couple of kilograms? When I ride off-road, my bike usually picks up at least 10 kg of mud anyway. And when I travel, I feel like I’m carrying half of my house with me! :) I was actually considering a lithium battery mainly for the higher cranking power. But thanks for the info - I can see it won’t really help in my case. For example, today I was riding in 2°C weather.

Hi. I heard from an Evoque owner that there are specific cameras. He was specifically looking for an original one. If interested, I can ask him where he found it.

Cheers, appreciate the kind words!

Thank you! But it's really not hard. And about the sensors, I have a suspicion that they use wires with inadequate insulation on the sensors. It's hardening, and it's probably causing half the problems. I'll have to take the sensor apart and see if I can confirm what I'm saying.

maybe it depends what continent you're riding or what sensor SKU they use in different locations. I had 30000k on it and it didn't have that problem. The only sensor that ever failed on mine was the side stand sensor :)

@@dawn-moon Hi. I've done 68,000, maybe you'll have it break down later too. But you are right, maybe different parts manufacturers are used, for different regions. Probably depends on the oil used, or driving style.

Hi! Thank you! I think on newer bikes you can only diagnose with a diagnostic tool. I haven't seen any mention of self-diagnosis with a flashing light. The principle itself is familiar to me, on my Dodge Stealth I can do such diagnostics.

@@ItsReallyEasy there is nothing on the repair manual of my 1290 either. they dont mention the list of fault codes, and they dont even mention the fact that the led flashing can indicate an issue, which i find really weird. a fellow rider managed to compile a list of fault codes and i found that list online. i guess KTM does not want us to self-diagnose any issues (not surprised tbh lol)

Well, it's not that bad. He's driven 68,000 kilometers. :)

Hey! But honestly, it’s pretty simple. Electronics are usually more reliable than mechanical parts. It might seem a bit harder to understand at first, but once you get the hang of it, it’s no big deal.

Yes, you can. The diagnostic device costs about 400 euros. And it is not an original device, but one that can read codes. I didn't buy one.

Hi! The 1290 SAR is actually not that bad. This is the first such repair in its 68K km.

:) You're probably right! But life is much more fun with a KTM!

HI! What does this cleanse involve, or what does it look like?

Hi! You're right, there are a lot of sensors. But if the others are broken, the bike will start, or indicate the problem on the screen. Like the gear sensor or the footpeg sensor. If the temperature or air pressure sensor fails, the computer can operate in emergency mode. The engine will not work properly, but it will start.

Yeah, you’re right. But compared to cars, they’re still easier to work on.

Bodywork and tank are pretty basic to remove. And really not any more work than my naked bikes.

​@@kj385the number of bolts and the different sizes are absolutely ridiculous. On my vfr everything was the same size. Also; to connect the Acc it takes 7 panels and 40+ bolts with 6 different sizes if I recall correctly. This is absolutely bonkers.

@@michaelrjacobsthen maybe you’re not the type to work on bikes 😅

@@kj385 nonsense. They should have thought about serviceability.

Hey! Right now, it’s at 68,000 km.

Hey! Great that you found a solution. I think the issue might be that tightening the nut too much made the bearing spin with extra resistance, kind of like a built-in damper. The stock damper is pretty bad, and I ended up replacing mine-it's in my videos. By the way, what damper are you using? I'm a bit concerned because it feels like an over-tightened bearing could wear out faster.

I’m using the hyperpro steering damper but the csc (linear) the hyperpro people recommends it for me instead of the progressive rsc and feels very good. I’m using 6 clicks. I install it at the same time ktm shop torque the nut. So I don’t know if I have it fixed by tightening but or by the hyperpro dampers

@@seazv That’s really helpful info, thanks! Did the Hyperpro people explain why they suggested a linear one specifically? I went with a progressive one, and it seemed like it didn’t really handle the low-frequency wobbles. I’ve been wanting to try out a linear one like yours, and what you’re saying actually backs up my theory.

I ask to hyperpro what is better for our bike and adventure travel mix between road and offroad and also for broken asphalt they respond “ Then the CSC would be preferred, as it dampens the small movements as well (which the RSC does not do). So the bike will be more stable at higher speeds with the CSC one. “

hi! This is the gasket for the injector housing EL219950 ELRING.

@D-Stealth muchas gracias amigo, saludos

Hi! It's hard for me to give advice since I've never broken a fuel cap, but I can say that someone managed to break the actuator this way before me. The cap held up. So there's a chance.

I couldn't find an emergency cord so I used brute force....it took quite a bit but it finally popped. I don't think I broke anything so I'm going to get a replacement and put that in....I see it's been a month so curious what you did....

@@rocoroco5749 Yeah, you're right. We need to adjust the suspension. I also had to repair the rear shock absorber.

Hola. Liquid silicone grease, so as not to damage the rubber seals. After putting it on, there is no grease left.

@@ItsReallyEasy muchas gracias por el dato, saludos..

Hi! Connect a diagnostic tool, and see the errors. Unscrewing all the plugs and looking for a damaged one is not a good task....

Hi! It's simple. Change the DNS settings - DNS Server to 8.8.8.8.8 , or to the DNS Server of your new ISP. I hope I understood correctly what you changed it to, where you connected it, and where you saw this error.

same😂😂😂🤝

Hi! Yes, this Porsche is four-wheel drive, if that's what you mean.

A video on changing the oil in the transfer case and rear differential is in the plans. :)

@@ItsReallyEasy Yes, I am going to change the oil and transmission soon. Thank you very much for sharing.

Try removing the sliding part, pull out the chain pin, and tap the needle back out.

Hi. Proper torque comes with experience. In the unexperienced, it is more convenient to measure. My task is to show that it is simple, and with minimal risk of damaging something. 🙂