Видео

Where do I find the bolt on brackets the brake line mounts to in the rear? The ones that the flex hose to the brake bolts on to. Mine are welded on but one is missing now.

Drop the washer and/or the nut should definitely be in all installation instructions 😁

Try some sandbags to give you a load on that spring. You put sandbags pretty much in the center a couple of 90 pounders and that’s gonna drop that rear body quite a bit that rear frame and you’ll have just the right amount alone on there without putting the body on….😳😳

I have been debating on installing a GT6 rear sway bar on my Spit since it is a 76 with a swing spring and doesn't tuck like the older spring set up. But I may wait to see after taking it to the auto cross track this April just to have some fun. But first I need to change to new tires because the ones on it are getting old.

my car has the swing spring. what i don't like about the swing spring is that it has less roll resistance than the fixed spring that your car has. my car always has bachelor lean. which doesn't affect anything, but i don't like it personally. the other thing i like with a fixed spring is the car remains flatter on corners.... until it doesn't which is why the camber compensator fixes that. this part is just my opinion, but i think a fixed spring with compensator is likely to handle better than a swing spring. but what i don't like about the compensator is reduced ground clearance on a car already quite low to the ground. that part really bugs me especially where i am in canada, we have lots and lots of bumpy roads up here. what i have thought is rather than put the compensator bar below the differential, put it on top and upside down. i would probably have to remove the very short top leaf to do that for clearance. with the ends on top instead of below the the vertical links, i would install suspension straps of correct length to connect the compensator to vertical link. why straps?.... i don't want the compensator bar to be part of the suspension in upward motion of the wheel.... but when the wheel gets compromised with positive camber, the compensator will progressively prevent that. so the wheels won't go into positive camber.

It's not taking the sharp turn that causes tuck-under, it's hard breaking when entering or negotiating the turn that initiates it. Experienced Triumph drivers know to power through the entire turn/bend with intent. These cars are not idiot proof. If driven correctly, they are perfectly safe. That old picture was seized on by people who wish to denigrate Triumph. Decent quality dampers and quality tires are also contributory factors which should never be overlooked. (Personally, I never installed a Camber compensator). PM me with any questions.

I've always been a bit of a hooligan and love how easy it is to "steer the rear" with the gas pedal on the Spitfire. I'm not sure that it's anything to do with the camber on the Spitfire as I've got a 78 with a swing spring which acts like a camber compensator. But while turning corners in a 74 or above Spitfire, it's easy to throw the rear end out with the application of a little power.

At the beginning you mention the "negative camber" that the car has as you are discussing what things are about, just to correct you ( sorry I'm a nerd) but you mean't "Positive camber" , your addon should stop this amount of +ve camber when being driven. If the car still has too much +ve when the body is on and bedded in, you can fit a spacer betwen the diff and the spring ( available in several thicknesess ) this raises the spring , and also lowers the car which in turn gives more -ve camber. You could actually remove the two eye bolts and fit the unit without the body being fitted, although it does help to have the added weight when refitting the bolts back into the eyes. As I have a Herald I fitted the later MK4/1500 swing spring together with a one inch lowering block , these two items dropped the car by just over an inch and gave me around 3 degrees negative which is a lot safer than the 2 deg positive I did have before. Look forward to the next vid.

1:07 it's positive camber as seen here, you have terms reversed. Positive is \ / . Negative is / \ .

The passenger side axle flange on the transmission can be removed with a 6mm hex wrench. Once that’s off the transmission comes out easily.

Mine were the same, cut them off and get new ones.😊

Hi Steve, A new subscriber here. As the weather in the UK is pretty bad at the moment ( for the UK anyway) I have spent most of today watching all of the vids you have done so far on the Spit. Nice going so far, a Mk3 was my first car after passing my driving test, it was in the same state your was when you revealed all the rust issues, basically the first 12 inches from the floorpan upwards was junk, many many hours was spent rebuilding it all. I then went on to do competition driving with the car for about 10 years which was huge fun. After a few other cars inbetween I now own a Herald, with the same 1300cc motor, and was re-aquainting myself with the insides of said motor using your vids so thank you. I would be very interested to see how you get on with that camber compensator when the car is on the road again, with my Spit I used the 1500 swing spring and the longer half shats to control the rear end and even when racing, it never caused any issues. Although I did carry out a few more "small "tweaks that really sorted it out. You may need to swap out the carb needles on those SU's when using a 4 branch manifold to some that are a bit richer, but see what the plugs look like before doing that. I just fitted a 123 dizzy to mine and that has really woken the motor up, much more responsive now it has an advance curve that works. Anyway, I could talk for pages, so look forward to the next video. 👍

Looking good, you have good energy on this project

I bet the wife loved seeing her salad bowl being used to soak the rap in!! LOL!! Looking Great!! Can't wait to hear it run!!

I wrapped my stater motor with heat shield and used SS tie wraps, to protect it from heat from my headers, (same side on the 6 cylinder)...not to easy. I will not wrap my very rare mild steel headers, because wrap can apparently encourage them to rust. No such problem with SS headers though.

never knew there was a silicone wrap spray.

Looks good! I think I made about 3 attempts wrapping the Challenger headers (long tube) what a pain to have it look nice!

Nice job. I'm wondering why you didn't wrap top down. Would it matter?

I like the way you wrapped that. Let us know how it works out.

Great video! Do you happen to know if the silver primer is sandable with say a 400grit to paint over? If so...does it sand easily or does it clog up the paper real bad.

Nice vid

I don't know if they are still available, but I got some solid black nylon hood cones, they are much better quality than the soft rubber versions and last for many, many years

TIMING COVER IS THAT THE CARS ORIGINAL ONE YOU CLEANED IT UP ?? OR IS IT NEW FROM RIMMERS

YOU JUST MADE MY JOB EASIER THANKSSSSS RIMMERS DO MESS UP AT TIMES .....

With the headers you might want to level the mounting surface with a flat bar and some sandpaper. They are notorious for not sitting perfectly flush and creating exhaust leaks. Looking good!

Making progress! I bet you're excited to turn it over!

Great work! Since this video have you tried any methods to eliminate brush strokes? Like using a foam brush or foam roller? Or using a tiny amount of their reducer so it levels a little better? Im fixing to use it where itll be visible so dont want brush marks, but cant spray it.

Like Mike says, threads outside the nut are worthless. But, per the Navy fastener instruction (NSTM 075), you should have at least 1 thread of protrusion, preferably 2. Anything more is a waste of bolt length.

For what it’s worth Steve, I’d get another spacer and a long bolt for that bottom bracket as well as trying to get another mounting point for the slide arm up top. Once it’s spinning, it’s going to flex and throw the belt every time. I have experience with that…😅

Try it with the body on, from below, no pit/lift

Noah C' is a good guy, and a fellow Spitfire owner!

The Alternator and it's bracket may be rather close to the underneath of the bonnet/hood, but you can always adjust it's position later, although you'll need a longer fan belt.

One step closer to Vroom Vroom!

I hate it when I'm the dpo 😁 As for the Alt bracket, maybe put a tube/spacer in there and is a longer bolt. Give you a little more stability.

for some reason i keep thinking jim the anvil neidhart hehe. fun project to follow. i can't remember now do you have a hardtop for it?

I'll be curious to see if the single mounting point for the alternator bracket on the drivers side will give you any trouble with keeping tension on the belt. You might need to mount a secondary mounting point ( maybe coming from the top water pump bracket as well) to keep that in place. Otherwise I think you might find that the tension on the belt will rotate the mounting and create a loose condition. It does look like the counter rotation stops when you hit that bracket so it might wedge itself there but I'm betting that you don't really want to do it that way

Threads outside the nut contribute nothing.

Sorry to hear you've been sick, I am in my 4th week of it!

Milestones are awesome. Good job to you and your padre!

Did not see the through out bearing and clutch lever install ????

get well soon

Torque specs are dry. When you lubricate the bolt or nut, you over tighten it. The rule of thumb is to drop the torque setting by 30% if you use grease or anti-seize.

Another Milestone in the books!! Can't wait to hear her sing!

Important milestone. Well Done, Steve!

congrats on a nice job.

Certainly a long way from the last time I saw that lump. Congrats on the milestone!

Nice! You do realize we're all waiting for the obligatory running chassis test drive, right? 😂

Good job! I have visions of you throwing gaskets at the water pump!

Nicely done Steve. That's a significant bit of progress 👏