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Perhaps I missed something ur why did you replace some of the Guyker parts with guyker stainless steel? I thought Gotoh 1996T was already great?

I did the same thing to a Gibson M-III 2013 reissue that came with the FR 1000 Korean tremolo. I really recommend using the front studs that come with the Gotoh, even if that means opening up the holes a little on a drill press. Reason being is now the tremolo sits up high on the guitar. It works fine and stays in tune, but I wish it sat lower in the cavity. If I had to do it over again I would have went with an OFR. I may still do that at some point seeing how it still has the FR mounts.

Thanks for sharing this vid. Good stuff in here. I've been considering the Gotoh on my Ibanez RG. I'm just afraid of drilling for the new studs. I hear any of the floyd studs aren't the proper design for the radius edge on the gotoh. Plus I'm worried how the gotoh will sit in my recess/cavity. I don't want to cut into my guitar at all. Oh and the length of the trem post base is much longer, I think it will hit inside the cavity. Wish someone had a loose one I could just test fit before purchasing. Thx again for sharing your experience! 🍻

Under the dash theres two connectors a gray one and a white one. I found the white but i cant find the gray one is it hidden or something??

You might be able to fabricate a back plate that will work for it look for a craft shop that sells moldable plastic sheets and a heat gun paint stripper make the mold a tiny bit smaller like fractions of a inch then make your plate

When you install the trem springs, you're supposed to install them so they are parallel with each other, not splayed-out like you have them in the video, reason for that is so that each spring can contribute equal-tension, if you install them splayed-out the two outer springs contribute more tension than the middle one, this is especially important with Floyds and vintage style trems that don't lock the springs in place, because the middle spring isn't contributing the same tension as the other two springs, it will have a tendency to fall-out when doing pull-ups, I never really understood why people like to install the springs splayed-out, maybe I'm missing something here....

When you install the trem springs, you're supposed to install them so they are parallel with each other, not splayed-out like you have them in the video, reason for that is so that each spring can contribute equal-tension, if you install them splayed-out the two outer springs contribute more tension than the middle one, this is especially important with Floyds and vintage style trems that don't lock the springs in place, because the middle spring isn't contributing the same tension as the other two springs, it will have a tendency to fall-out when doing pull-ups, I never really understood why people like to install the springs splayed-out, maybe I'm missing something here....

Make sure you install the correct post. That gotoh is made of a harder material and it can eat through that post, which can cause tuning issues down the line

You forgot to measure how thick the guitar's body is.

So I did a lot of research I set up my guitars myself and was having the same issues with nut height and radius with compound necks . Jackson , Schecter, and all the other big guitar builders that put Floyd rose systems and compound radius necks on their guitars almost always come from the factory with the wrong radius locking nuts And wrong radius on the bridge . And most guitar players don't even know this I didn't either. First Floyd Rose only offers a few radius nuts mostly 10" 12" and I think maybe 16" . My Jackson with 12" to 16" compound radius neck was having same problem setting string height and radius at the nut. My high and low E strings were really high and the others were better but not right either . The nut was a BR3 but I think it may have been a 16" radius because the radius of the string slots were flatter than the radius of the neck at the nut. So I found out Schaller the company that made the first Floyd systems makes replacement locking nuts and floating bridges with a bunch of radiuses to choose from right out of the box . Remember once you get the right radius locking nut to match your fret board at the nut you need to make sure your floating bridge has the proper radius also. And most Floyd system you can shim the individual bridge saddles to do this or you could just buy the proper one from Schaller. This kind of disappointed me about Jackson and other big builders because there are a lot of players that own these guitars, pay to get them set up and they dont have proper radius nuts and bridges to begin with brand new. Thousands of guitar players around the world are playing these guitars think they have good action when it could be a lot better with proper radius nuts and bridge. I for one was really bummed when I figured this out. Before anyone buys a guitar with a Floyd system and especially a compound radius neck ask if the nut and bridge match the neck radius and make sure you check it because it probably won't. Unless your spending a lot of $$$ then they better match. Hats off to SCHALLER for addressing this MASSIVE issue on hundreds of thousands of guitars around the world that could play better with just the correct bridge and nut radius. And shame on these builders and sellers for keeping this problem under the radar. Just to save a dollar.

This is one reason i dislike compound radius necks wich jackson puts on almost all their guitars. The fret boaords are always have flatter radius towards the bridge . The BR3 nuts will leave your high and low E string with high action at the nut but the ADGB strings will be closer to the first fret where they should be . When you sand the bottom of the nut or sand the nut seat to where the action is good or correct on the high and low E strings your ADGB strings may fret out because their to low now, mostly the D and G strings beause these nuts dont follow the radius of the fret board at the nut . Seams like they are designed to follow the middle of the road radius which on most Jackson's is a 12 to 16 inch compound radius so you end up with a nut radius of 14 inch instead of a 12 inchs wich is what the radius is at the nut, leaving the two outer strings low and high E with high action . So you end up shimming it back up or sanding one side of the nut and not the other to lower it. Or shimming one side and not the other. Its really a give and take process. Another thing i thought about is why guitar techs or luthiers dont sand or file these steal locking nuts individual string height anyway . They file individual string heights on bone, tusq, plastic and even brass string heghts why are they not filling individual string height on steal locking nuts ? I understand its more work but if someone is paying you why should you care. Very few guitar builders ship guitars with the nut action low anyway they always ship them with high action so the player can have it adjusted or filed to their playing preference. My jackson had the same problem the low E string sat 23 thou of an inch above the first fret the high E was a little high also . I ended up sanding the low E slot in the nut with sand paper . It took some time but i got the height i was looking for. The high E could be lower also but i can live with it. Maybe ill sand and dial in all the strings individually on the nut. But i am worried it may throw off the radius and string action toward the bridge because of the compound radius as the neck flattens out the farther up it goes. Then i have to start worrying or wondering about the bridge raduis . Should that be set at 16 iches or 12 or somewhere in the middle like 14 . This is exactly why i dislike compound radius fret boards , you have to different radiuses at the bridge and nut . I heard graph tech makes a new nut for floyd rose trems and individual string heights can be filed into it easily. It does NOT lock so you have to buy locking machine heads or tunning pegs instead. I havent seen any reviews on it but they showed it at the latest namm show. Im still waiting to see how it performs.

why didnt you just sand the bottom of it,done it many times.you must be a newbie to this

Floyd Rose special isn't that bad I know you here a lot of people online saying they are so much worse than a regular Floyd Rose but that's simply not true. Floyd Rose is a good product whether it's a Floyd 1000, special, or a original if it's got Floyd Rose stamped on it and its a real one it's good.

Hell yea man. Can't wait to see how this one comes out.

You needed the gotoh with the 33mm block.

Did the same thing to my Soloist, mine has the HSS pick up configuration, sounds SO much better!!

Promo'SM 😂

Thinking of getting this set for my baritone, thanks for the useful vid!

Nice job bro 🔥 👍 💪 💯

How does it sound? I’m looking at getting the same set for my Soloist. 🤘

Woow looks great

interesting. i need to replace the nut on a MIJ king V, my brother replaced the original one with a R3 that's much high... according to him it's the same as the original, but there's no way the nut was that high out of the factory

4g63 non-turbo? gonna have to fix that in the future LOL make like 8lbs of boost after some forged internals or what have you. Cant wait to see the progression bro

Crap pics

Hi do you have any older models you would trade

hi there if you still have your honda civic how much or i might have a trade ill c

check my vids ill trade u some i got some stuff wat u want

verry true!

you mean the one with the mustang?

Would you take a dodge stealth (almost done) for the racing interior???

to be honest they should reissue them

bro i got lucky and bought a ford focus tuner series for on 15 bucks and its sick painted it blue and stuff and it a very old kit from 2003

the only place I see them is ebay. I've seen two different Honda civic coupes, a Honda civic hatchback, an eclipse gsx, an acura integra, an acura rsx, and a Subaru impreza (they are all in the tuner series by revell) on ebay. I think they are discontinued, but people still sell them sometimes

i apperciate the help but do you know if they still sell these tuner series

thanks for the kind words dude! theres videos on youtube that explain how to detail and modify the interior, engine, chassis, and body to make them look more realistic. i'd suggest looking up videos from fastjimmy71, cancars2, cwazmann1, damncranky666, bowtiebadboy33, and ctspeedshop. they are really talented with model building and they have how-to videos on modifying and detailing. I am also gonna try and upload some how-tos pretty soon. hope I helped and happy modeling!

amazing work i just got into this hobby already bulit 3 cars what are some thing to make it look realistic

sweet.

thanx

nice bro!

thanx!

sweet stash man! peace.

thanks dude u build some real badass stuff too

nice video love japan car,s