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@@craigmclaughlin7870 driveline companies have been doing it for years but I can see what you mean. That’s why they spin it with the adapters on the machine and also test it in real life. It has since cleaned up a little once unladen after the trip, so my hope is to adjust my pinion angle as best I can to improve the phasing.

@@Bodhigrenadier Good to hear it’s getting better. Keep us informed as reliable and stronger driveshafts for the Grenadier that truly work will be a good option to know is out there.

@@craigmclaughlin7870 definitely will 🤙🤙

@@michaelwittmann2644 what bruises?

@@Bodhigrenadier The back of his right hand and right thigh.

@@michaelwittmann2644 so those aren’t bruises, it’s just shadowing from the sun outside of the car. And that’s my hand and my leg 🤣

@@Bodhigrenadier Ah, okay. I'm glad all is well😊.

@@Greg-e7e oh believe me I know all about it. The angles on this car, especially once lifted are pretty severe, hence the DC joints at both ends. It cured the single DC joint vibes and binding but fit not fully eliminate the harmonics. Unfortunately no one makes links yet to adequately adjust pinion angle, the factory arms only have caster bolts. The rumor is metal cloak will be developing links so I’ll definitely be on that wagon 🤙🤙

Why are arms hard to get for this thing? If they c a n make driveshafts they can make arms

Needs cv joints like jeep

Driveshaft design is fairly universal across RWD and 4WD vehicles and can be replaced/upgraded rather easily as long as you measure correctly and use the correct flange and pinion yoke or an adapter. Control arms vary greatly in design from vehicle to vehicle depending on suspension design (3 link, 4 link etc.) and requires some careful engineering to prevent binding and allow for best articulation depending on lift and what you’re using the truck for. That said, it’s not rocket science and someone will eventually come out with some adjustable or “castor-correcting” ones now that people are lifting Grenadiers.

The factory driveshafts use CV joints. Usually people upgrade to stronger U jointed driveshafts to cope with increased driveshaft angels from lift and may go to double Cardon (double u joints to minimize overall angle that each u joint operates at). This front driveshaft uses double double cardon joints (1 at each end) so a total of 4 u joints for the driveshaft. Also he built with 1350 u joints which are some of the strongest Spicer makes for a standard driveshaft. I still think the vibes are due to phasing issue due to pinion angle. I’ll wait for a fix before I lift mine.

@@craigmclaughlin7870 you’re not entirely wrong and I appreciate the input! Everything can be made better, but just as is true in life, balance is key, no pun intended. 😆

@@timstorbeck5815 I can understand your confusion, allow me to clarify. So the L track is not nearly as useful as a food grade stainless steel rattle free table with bamboo cutting board. I also knew I could put the L track in myself for about $200 vs. the $800 they wanted for factory. Lastly I’m an ambassador for GPfactor so I don’t pay full price to test and review their products. Ultimately it’s up to the end user and valuation system. You may not see the value in the table but others might, or you might value the L track more than the table or vice versa for others. Needs vs. wants 🤙🤙

@@jeffreyscott4564 airbags might be a good option for you. Other companies are working on different springs and heights as well.

@@IneosGrenadierWorld definitely smoother in 7th, pretty much non existent

@@thinpins1 really, mine was quiet with the factory shaft. I may adjust the caster a bit to see if it reduces it at all. Working on some other options.

@@Bodhigrenadier yeah I definitely get some strange resonances. It’s possibly something else but it is in line with what you are describing in your new setup

@@thinpins1 could be tires or it could be caster angle

With any lift, the angle of the driveshaft is too drastic. Causes vibrations and premature wear on pinion bearings. It’s a common issue and Ineos is not covering it under warranty.

@@peterjack233 they are CV boots, which are prone to short life spans and premature failure under high torque loads, articulation, and severe angles. Lifts exacerbate this issue. Pinion bearings and seals can be affected by these angles and potentially from vibrations in the driveline, which usually is not present in an rzeppa type booted cv.

@@Bodhigrenadierthis is so unfortunate. Ineos was supposed to be the durable, reliable and dependable vehicle for long travel.

@@willito1211 it is but it is a known concern with all solid axle vehicles with short wheel base, especially once lifted.

We all run 35s with a 2" lift and it makes it a big problem. Thanks for working on this

@@MrStrom20 the current cost is $2k. Will keep everyone posted!

@@willito1211 it will eventually become an issue if pushed hard and loaded up if with larger tires at stock height. If you’re gentle on it you should be fine

@@Bodhigrenadierthat’s unfortunate. I thought the purpose of this car was TO BE pushed hard. Built on purpose is their slogan. So even stock height/wheel it will eventually have drive shaft issues. Any of these issues documented by owners in a forum that you could share pleaseee

@@willito1211 there is mention of it in the Facebook groups and the forum. It’s a common concern with all offroad vehicles, it’s a weak point prone to failure.

@@eastonharrold7630 watch the latest videos and listen to the sound first, let me know what you think!

@@ElderStatesman-pi3lc I think we can have about 5 available within a week! 🤞🤞

fall asleep after 2 mins. if you are going to install lights, then you have to give demos

@@jayv2447 this is waaaaaay stronger than factory. It’s probably about 10-15 lbs heavier than stock.

@@Bodhigrenadier nice! I was wondering if Tom woods company might make a replacement for grenadier at some point.

@@jayv2447 well see! I’ll be trying to work with them!

@@johnverzi5783 well technically the shafts are already in peril at factory height, simply due to design. I already know of several cars that have blown front and rear shafts just from torque load. I would say 33’s with hard offroading with lots of unnecessary throttle will start to do the front one in sooner. 35’s with smart offroading, maybe a year or two before you see wear and failure.

@@themaker959 will keep you posted! 🤙🤙

When do you think they will be available?

@@MrStrom20 should be available as is within a week or two! 🫡🫡

@@Bodhigrenadier that is fantastic news. I think I understand the “as is” part. I’m guessing you will continue to refine the design. How do I reach out to you?

@@MrStrom20 watch the latest video and listen to the sound, tell me what you think.

@@jrix1765 it’ll hold up fine, I’m more testing for vibrations and noise. Tricky angles on these cars! 😬😬

@@idrvplanes we’ll see as we test it on the long drive to Colorado!

@@andrewwiltshire2689 very fortunate!

@@user-pg1ud3cs4j lucky! I’d still swap them out for these though!

@@edwardpocockiii3712 dead switches are the worst! I do like the owl lights that fit above in the grill, they’re pretty slick. Thanks for the support! 🤙🤙🤙

@@bernelnery2191 thanks! 🤙🤙 unsure what DYI is though 🤷‍♂️

@@alharveyuk I think I used the factory lights twice and was like yeah these need to go 🤣 maybe I can find a buddy with factory ones and do a side by side

@@Bodhigrenadier Hope you find a buddy, but don't worry too much seeing the new lights in the dark I can do a comparison with my stock lights

@@alharveyuk 10-4!

@@jeffreyscott4564 no problem! Great lighting upgrade! 🤙🤙🤙

@@LosAngelesDrummer very nice! I’ll have to look into that! 🤙🤙

THIS is a great idea.

@@ahmedalmulla9402 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻

@@reneguerrero4657 🤣 glad someone feels the same 🤙🤙

@@loum.4377 🤙🤙🤙

@@kertparsley9258 hey buddy! All of my wires are taped up and loomed together. If you want to call me you can and I can try to walk you through it! Message me on FB.

Got it. Thanks. Let me take a closer look and reach out again, I know the team at CATuned are a great team.

UPDATE: CATuned reached out and "labelled" the pics I sent them. Should be much easier this weekend. I do plan to use the switch under the hood - for my limited experience and use, that seems like what works best. Flip it on, stay outside with the tires, but I also paid extra for the overhead panel, so HMM.

@@kertparsley9258 yeah I’m more just lazy 🤣

@@husshardan3511 I know! I’ll add another video of a cold start and idle shortly. It’ll be hard to capture deceleration burbles as I don’t have an exterior camera mount yet!

@@husshardan3511 at the least it kind of shows clearances and skid plate removal which is more of my concern

I've gone side exit on mine integrated with a custom slider.

@@SaltShack sorry I believe you’re mistaken. Unsure where you’ve gotten your information. The twins are 100% duty cycle where as the singles are not. You can find that information on the ARB website here: www.arb.com.au/assets/air-lockers/6-07.pdf unless they’ve changed something I’m unaware of. I love ARB’s as well, I mainly chose this option for this car as it is currently the only solution that mounts under the hood. I ran an ARB twin under the hood in my 2013 JKU (one tons, 40’s, coilovers, 3 link long arms, hydro steer, ARB Lockers) for several years until I needed to upgrade the brake booster and big brakes, then I lost that space. I mounted it under the passenger seat and it would go off periodically when the lockers were engaged so it was super annoying. Plus when I needed to air up at the end of the trail, my passenger couldn’t just hang out in the rig as it would vibrate like crazy. The reason I would plumb it is for quicker or more convenient access. If I wire it to my interior switch panel I would have no reason to open the hood. I like the idea of the coupling mounted flush into steel bumpers, just waiting on someone to make some I like. The other option is to plumb it to the cargo area so I can access everything quickly if I’m storing the hoses and gauges there. The heat in the engine bay is not a concern for me effecting the compressor as I’ve never had issues there. I’m more concerned with the heat, noise, and dirt it would make the interior prone to, though not so much the dirt. Thanks for your input! 🙌🏻🙌🏻

@@Bodhigrenadier I think you’re right, I am WRONG, on Duty Cycle but I don’t know why as the twin is merely two singles. All TJM products seem to be giving ARB a run for their money and that’s a good thing for all of us. Anyway, if my single, mounted under the rear seat passenger side of my Grenadier runs for more than 30 minutes there’s likely a problem. It’s never a bad Idea to have your hood up when idling and running your compressor though especially when temps are high.

@@SaltShack I agree, it is best practice to open the hood if your compressor is located there. I’m sure the compressor under the rear seat is totally fine as it likely won’t run for a continuous 30 minutes and is more than adequate for the size tires on these rigs. Really the only reason for a twin compressor is if you’re pressed for speed or in charge of filling up multiple rigs on a trail run. I used to run a power tank as well which was stupid fast, but it got expensive as I was leading trail runs every weekend for a few years. I ended up saving the power tank for reseating beads if needed!

@@Bodhigrenadier Agreed, though I intend, sorry for not being clear, to keep the door open and the seat up when airing up and I’m sure the head start not being prewarmed from engine bay heat at least balances out. Thanks for the dialogue and great content. I’m sure we both agree 100% that the Grenadier is the kind of enthusiast truck we’ve been hoping for, for a long time and pray for Ineos’ continued success. But, I hope I’m not just saying that because I have Grenadier in the Garage and a Quartermaster on order and ‘am giving up extremely well Modified 200 Series and an exceptional Colorado ZR2 Diesel that you can read about in “WHEELS AFIELD” magazine published by Petersens and OSG. Look for up coming content about the Grenadier on AND IN FIELD ETHOS publications. Forgive shameless plug but we will call it resume bona fides to avoid embarrassment. Thanks.

@@SaltShack no worries! Sounds like you’ve built some awesome vehicles! I’m no professional by any means, but I have a fair amount of experience running some of the hardest trails across the southwest with the Jeep club I founded. RSRC (rock steady rock crawlers). This is a different type of rig but very similar feel, but more luxurious and geared more towards overlanding. I absolutely love it and have no problem wishing success for the brand or having intrinsic bias! Don’t worry about the plugs! 😜😜😜

I would use a dust cap too, that was the first thing I thought of haha. An absolute must.

@@nadirelf I’m probably going to plumb the quick connect elsewhere once I get the wiring tapped to the interior switch, just need to find the time to sort out the wiring. If you have electrical knowledge and don’t mind doing your own wiring you could do that, but their harness has a relay built in. If you like the switch under the hood then I would just stick to their harness, it’s simple enough once you figure out where every wire goes. Labels would be useful.

Why would you waste an interior roof switch when you are lifting the hood to hook the hose anyway? Dirty hands, in and out of the car... I would literally look for a way to attach the accessories storage bag under the hood as well. Also get a cover or use tape to keep the dirt out of that connector.

@@fabulousoffroaddesigns5080 would not be a waste for me, what else am I going to use it for? I’ve got like 5 empty switches currently. I like to have all of my controls in one spot. A few will power auxiliary lights, the other the winch. Outside of that I don’t really have dedicated use for the others.

@@fabulousoffroaddesigns5080 as far as accessories, I’ve got boxes on the roof rack that hold all of my recovery gear. I also have space under the passenger seat if I wanted to store a hose and gauge there. This is an offroad vehicle, I’m not over concerned with cleanliness, more with functionality 🙌🏻🙌🏻

@@bernelnery2191 thank you! I was out there and also horse thief trail! Definitely worth consideration if coming from a JK. If staying in the 35” tire range, the grenadier is definitely worth a look! 🤙🤙

@@dierkrieger thank you! It’s definitely been fun, still more work to be done, just waiting on the aftermarket to catch up in the USA! 🙏🙏

@@SeleneSung-x2u depends on what it is! 🙌🏻🙌🏻

@@Bodhigrenadier jeeplights😀

@@SeleneSung-x2u well this isn’t a Jeep so I’m unsure they would fit 😆

@@Bodhigrenadier We've got a lot of off-road lights too. How am I supposed to tell you about them in detail?

@@SeleneSung-x2u perhaps start with what brand they are? 🤷‍♂️

@@michaelyapp6099 nope!

@@jrix1765 the nominal setting for caster from the factory is 2.0. Mine is set at 1.5, which is good at this height due to the CV driveshaft angle, much more and that thing is even more of a ticking time bomb.

@@Bodhigrenadier Thanks for the quick reply as I will pass along this information for the alignment. Also please let us know when you get the new front Driveshaft in and also where to look for that as well. Thanks again and love your rig.

@@Bodhigrenadier by chance is JE Reel working on the new front Drive Shaft for you? I was going to reach out to them to see if they are working on any for the Grenadier yet as I have always used them in the past on Jeep builds.

@@jrix1765 no I’ve got someone down here in SoCal working on it. First attempt at a standard DC joint failed due to driveline vibes. The angles of the transfer case output and pinion angle are pretty significant. JE Reel looked at it already and said no go. I’ve been in comms with Tom woods and they had lots of insight. My guy down here is bringing the car back in on Monday, we already have the adapters, he’s going to work on something custom 🤫

@@Bodhigrenadier Awesome keep us in the loop as it’s developed. This week after the lift and tires went on my Grenadier, I think this Front Drive Shaft angle is about maxed. Please pass along contact information once a solution is reached. Thanks again for all your help in advance

@@reneguerrero4657 awesome thank you! What color and build spec are you looking at?

@@Bodhigrenadier i’m planning to order the 1924 in magic mushroom.

@@reneguerrero4657 nice! That’ll be a beautiful car!

@@luisalexisroman I haven’t yet. Made a bunch of changes in tire size and weight afterwards so I won’t be able to get accurate numbers unfortunately 😢 I should try to offload the rack and gear to see how it does though 🤔

@@deanfisher1753 thanks! Yeah I’m fortunate that we have a new build so the garage is actually quite tall. As it is right now it clears by about an inch 🤣 This car is definitely an emotional purchase so you gotta want it and use it for its purpose for it to make sense. It definitely is not ideal as a status symbol for the streets. 😆

@@Auxbeam potentially. I have been looking at BD and KC. I’ll take a look at your stuff, thank you! 🙏

@@Bodhigrenadier Thank you very much! We send our sponsoring products through your FB and IG too. Hopefully you can chat over there:)

@@escdefender not very much at all. I think with the extra fuel cans full, water full, and rack weight plus recovery gear it’s maybe an extra 200-250lbs? When I’m loaded up for camping it’s probably close to 500lb, maybe 650lbs with my wife and son added 🤣

@@marC63S thanks buddy 🙌🏻🙌🏻

@@edwardpocockiii3712 thank you sir 🤙🤙

@@stephenhankey688 truly appreciated! 🙌🏻🙌🏻

@@ttinnovations3310 don’t forget to wipe! 🤣🤣🤣

Она ждала другого...

@@markelliott6105 there’s a good husband right there! 💪🏼💪🏼

@@user-sn1xf7vj1r 🤷‍♂️

Sameeeee

@@schwarts10101 nice!

@@destination_tbd I remembered afterwards. It’s from van essentials. I did have to cut, drill, and countersink so add in the TVM when choosing between these and factory!

@@henrikkhodagulyan2160 🤙🤙🤙