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Excellent! Happy to hear it. Spread the word about the channel.

Happy to hear it helped! Thanks for taking the time to comment. Spread the word about the channel.

Check out my community page for help with sourcing parts. Spread the word about the channel.

Happy to hear it. You're welcome and thanks for watching! Spread the word about the channel.

All good. Thanks for watching! Spread the word about the channel.

Hi, worked on, yes... recorded, no. They're similar. Take pictures as you go.... or use your local repair shop if you're uncomfortable with it. Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks! What reel do you have?

@TSGReelService Thanks. It's sorted now

@@faizalali2999 👍

Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. The video states what needed to be done in this scenario. If it was unclear, let me know what time in the video was. Spread the word about the channel.

You're welcome and thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks for reaching out. I don't have a VI live liner video up to reference you to, so you can either take it to your local repair shop for help, or if you feel comfortable going into the reel yourself, you can certainly check those two areas. You can check the teeth and spring on the cam gear, the rear drag stack and the tension screw under the rear drag cap. Let me know how it goes.

Not sure what you're referring to (sorry), but congrats!

Thanks! What time in the video are you referring to?

@@TSGReelService there isn’t a part in the video where it showcases it but was curious to know if you had any idea

@@van3651 Thanks for clarifying. I think I now understand what you're referring to. You're saying the bail wire keeps popping out of the line roller support base, opposite the bail arm. The notch in the bail wire doesn't catch on to anything.... it's likely from the cutting and bonding process. You'll likely need a new bail wire. However, you can sometimes glue it back in the hole using JB Weld, or with an actual welder (if you have one those)... just be careful not leave any burring that your line can catch on and break. If that's not your issue, post a video of your problem on your channel and then reply here with an "X" so I can view it. DO NOT include your channel or video link.

@@TSGReelService thanks for the advice! Yeah I was thinking it was a lost cause and would just need a new bail wire. Luckily they aren’t too expensive. Appreciate the prompt responses!

@@van3651 No worries.

Thanks for watching, the love and your question. Some bearings I open (see ruclips.net/video/GI02FQMq9Nk/видео.html), but didn't feel these needed that, as it didn't feel or sound like it was necessary. Even "sealed" bearings aren't truly sealed.... the oil gets in there. Hope that helps clarify. Thanks again. Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks for checking out the video. Yes, you're right (partially in the torque department) and regarding the occasional play in the gearing after service some of the times. However, the locking up you're referring to is usually from the main gear pressed to hard against the pinion, causing it to stick when the handle is cranked. In these uncommon situations, you'll need to play with the number of shims you place on the MG until you get it to feel "right". Sometimes, a shim on the other side does help, but usually, you're just adjusting the left side. If the main gear is too worn, the 'misalignment' of the 'worn' parts on the MG/PG interaction will also cause this binding issue upon reassembly. There are some other possible reasons, but I hope this helps get you on the right track. You'll see in some of my videos, I discus this issue during the reassembly process. Spread the word about the channel.

@@TSGReelService thx sir. Where do you get the shims ? Great info. 👍 I have about 10 different reels I cycle through .... as I'm always dropping them in the water 💧

@@TSGReelService thx- Where do you get the shimms.

@@JohnFak-u8n Check my community page for parts help.

You're welcome and thanks for watching! Spread the word about the channel.

Vibration relates to rotor balance and/or shaft issues. Regarding the noise, it depends on how severe it is. You'd have to make a video showing what you're experiencing and posting it to your channel so I can see it. Bear in mind, most all reels are much nosier in the quiet of your home than when out in the "field".... this especially becomes more noticeable after you service it also.... not because it actually is nosier, but usually because you never really paid attention to the sounds your reel made before that. Spread the word about the channel.

@@TSGReelService Thank you very much for the information, I appreciate it very much, it is a friend's reel that is brand new and after a maintenance service he notices these things and I clarified that it is normal due to the friction between the crown and the pinion.

@@Dkr_fishingCR You're welcome and no worries. It's not necessarily that.... more of a human nature sort of thing to "all of a sudden" notice certain things after something has taken place, but never noticed it before, even if it were already there to begin with. However that doesn't mean something isn't wrong.... maybe he can take it to someone else to find out or compare.

Happy to hear the video helped, Matt! Both track systems have their advantages and drawbacks, but totally get what you mean regarding durability. Spread the word about the channel. Barry

Thanks for watching! They're likely all for the main gear. The schematics don't always show the number used, as they can vary. Spread the word about the channel.

You're very welcome and thanks for watching! Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks for checking out the video.... check out this video for possible solutions: ruclips.net/video/6nBl0wcyu3w/видео.html For parts.... see my community page for help: www.youtube.com/@TSGReelService/community Spread the word about the channel!

Thanks for checking out the video... not sure what you're referring to.... in the future, please use time stamps for the specific section of the video you're referring to if you have a question you'd like an answer to. If it's just a comment, thanks for sharing your thoughts. Spread the word about the channel.

Which one do you have?

Thanks for checking out the video. It sounds like you've never had the reel serviced before. Check out the spool, drags and shaft. The video is a resource; take the time to search through it. If you're too busy or not inclined to taking the time to do the work yourself, try taking the reel to your local tackle/repair shop for assistance. All the best with it. Spread the word about the channel.

🙂 see my last response to you regarding the rotor wobble. Thanks regarding the A/R! Soaking doesn't always work, but there are other ways that could work, though they come with risks.... heat, tools, etc.

Thanks for checking out the video. They're not the most balanced reels out there, so a little wobble is expected sometimes. Spread the word about the channel.

You're welcome and thanks for watching the video and the PayPal tip, Drew! Sorry to hear that... hope you were able to haul the fish in after retrieving the reel...... but glad to hear the video helped you salvage the reel. Check out these videos for help with some of what is likely to go wrong with your reel after a dunking: ruclips.net/video/GI02FQMq9Nk/видео.html ruclips.net/video/N0hwcFYczTk/видео.html ruclips.net/video/nysylR48P90/видео.html Spread the word about the channel. Barry

Thanks for checking out the video! Sand is very rough on the reel. I'm not currently accepting new submissions, but you can still email me at tsgreelservice@gmail.com for help. Sand is especially tough on reels. It finds a way to get into the oddest places. Using an ultrasonic cleaner can help, but you'll probably still need to do some manual cleaning after. Likely, you'll need to do a complete breakdown, clean and service.... but may still need to replace some parts. The crunchiness sound you feel/hear is likely from the a/r and/or other bearings in the reel. If your reel is similar to this, you can follow it to do a complete breakdown, but use it in conjunction with this video to try and save the bearings: ruclips.net/video/GI02FQMq9Nk/видео.html Spread the word about the channel.

If so . Do you know where i can order it and wats it called ?

Thanks for checking out the video. Yes, it'll affect the reel. That part keep the bearing in place.... without it, your reel may feel rough or "sticky". It's called the bearing retainer.... G52-5101 for the 4000 size.... H01-7201 for larger sizes. See my community page for parts assistance: www.youtube.com/@TSGReelService/community Spread the word about the channel.

@@adriancisneros891 see above.... thanks!

Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts and tips, brother. It's always good to learn from the master. This will be helpful to the people who watch and read the comments. Can you make an updated video on your channel and link it here? Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks for checking out the video. They're both good (and close to the same).... especially if you maintain them. Will do a video of the Saltiga the next time I get one in. Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks for checking out the video. Check out my community page for help with parts: www.youtube.com/@TSGReelService/community Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks for checking out the video. It's unlikely... damage to the tines affect the reel's shifting. The skipping you're feeling is probably from the bar between the gears, or one (or both) of the gears themselves. I would recommend you take it to your local repair shop (or Penn) for a full evaluation... just be sure to describe, as best you can, what's happening to the reel and when. They can't always recreate the situation, but should be able to narrow down the culprit. Spread the word about the channel.

@@TSGReelService Thank you.

@@jp8950 No worries. I do quite a bit of work for charter captains.... novice guests can be (unintentionally) rough on the equipment.

Excellent!!!! Glad to hear it helped and you got that stud of a reel back on the water! Spread the word about the channel.

It's probably a production/quality control issue. Though I'm not a fan of this reel, it's shouldn't do what your reel did right out of the box. I would return it for a new one. Spread the word about the channel.

Yes. It may have been adjusted while engaged (which is a no-no), or the knob is frozen to the threads on the shaft.... Do this while the lever is in the freespool position, try using a vise grip to turn the knob. Take your time with this.... you have to consider the left side of the reel is graphite, which can be damaged by too much torque, but also have to worry about damage to the part of the knob that is screwed on to the shaft. If you're concerned about trying this yourself, take it to your local repair shop. Hope this helps.

You can do it. Not sure what reel you have, but if it's a TLD15, use this video in conjunction with this other video for help: ruclips.net/video/6nBl0wcyu3w/видео.html However, if you're not comfortable, take it to your local repair shop. Good luck. Spread the word about the channel.

@TSGReelService thanks for that, I'm going to pull it down, got the grease and the tools. I've got 3 TLDs abs your videos help so much. Thanks. I'll tell everyone about your channel. 👍

@@andrewdwight6506 I appreciate it, brother. Good luck with the reels.

Bearing, maybe. Use the video or send it to a reel repair shop.

😞 hope you were able to find it. If not, check out my community page for parts help. Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks and thanks for watching! Check out the video description and my community page for help with that. You can also see this video for some of the techniques I use: ruclips.net/video/q_2iBTQv4yo/видео.html Spread the word about the channel.

You're welcome and thanks for checking out the video. Not sure what you mean when you say from the service experience. Are you asking if one's easier than the other to service, if one has better components than the other? If so, it's kind of like comparing apples to oranges. They use different styles and components, but each reel has quality components. From a personal use standpoint, they both perform very well. The Saragosa is lighter, but I prefer the more durable feel of the heavier Slammer III, most of the time, which I suspect would be the same for the IV. Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks, and thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Spread the word about the chanel.

Thanks for taking the time to comment and share the timeline that helped you, especially if someone else has the same issue. Sorry to hear you went through that, but glad you're able to diagnose it with the help of the video. Spread the word about the channel.

Excellent brother! Happy to hear it. Now go put it through its paces by busting up some monster fish with it!!!! Thanks for taking the time to comment. Spread the word about the channel.

Thanks for checking out the video. If the section of the reel in question is metal, I use heat and CorrosionX to penetrate deep down the screw threads. Some service guys report having success with slightly tightening the screw first and then trying to back it out, but I haven't had much luck with that. If your screw is in an area that's not metal, try just soaking the area for 24 to 72 hours with CorrosionX (or WD-40 or the like) to penetrate the threads.

You sound like a subscriber!!!! Thanks!!! But, even if you're not, thanks for sticking around with me for more than one video. Yes, that's correct for the most part.... I would probably leave the bearings with plastic on side alone, but even they can be worked on (I've done it, but not suggesting you try). Just remember, if you have rust in them, you're better off getting new bearings. You can still use the cleaning solution I use in the video on sealed bearings, but you'll likely need to do a few rounds of it, and soak them longer each time, since it's less effective and takes longer to break the grime down.... problem with this is that if the solution breaks off a piece of dense grime, but not enough for it to drain out, it may affect the performance of your bearing. Nice stripers!

@@TSGReelService ​Yeah man no doubt, I subscribed to your content pretty much after I watched your bearing teardown and oil comparison video. There aren't many RUclips nerds out there that really break down the technicalities of these sometimes intricate devices that catch things with gills. I'd love to know how you were able to access that bearing even further. I could punch it and remove the shield like you described and try to service it but it doesn't seem that dire. I dropped some "liquid bearings" to the edges of the shielded bearing and it loosened up a bit. Would a rusty bearing make a noticeable sound with these larger bearings? They surely do on spool bearings on my smaller class spinning gear

@@TSGReelService I checked on CRC's website and they say to avoid rubber and plastic with their brake cleaners. I was thinking about using denatured alcohol (as recommended from RUclipsr Tackle advisors). Have you tried this or similar with plastic containing pieces?

@@coolerfullofish Thanks! I had this channel in mind back in 2017ish.... showing complete breakdowns, as most everyone else were just showing basic stuff. However, I didn't jump on it until a few years later. It's a lot of work showing every little detail on reels, but the truth of the matter is that's how I service most reels, so showing a "made-for-the-youtube-attention-span-audience" basic service like everyone else, and then doing a full service afterward just didn't make a lot of sense. Though, that's why you don't see me doing a bunch of videos. Now regarding the bearing, I don't know of a surefire way to remove all rust from a bearing, and if it did, there would likely be pitting on the balls, which would cause trouble. The bearings, when slowly spinning them between your fingers, will feel crunchy, have "hiccups", or not spin well. This also happens if there's significant crud buildup. So, for the bearings with the plastic case on one side, I punch out the metal cover from the other side and blast the brake cleaner through it using one of those rc bearing blaster dohicky tools, while checking the plastic periodically.... the plastic is tougher than you think, but you shouldn't risk it for too long. Then I soak them in alcohol, manually test them using my fingers and/or compressed air, and repeat the process, if necessary.

@@coolerfullofish See my previous response, but the ethanol based alcohol you mention is an excellent alternative to soak them in. I would still remove the shields. I don't think I've ever tried denatured alcohol (never really needed to), but may purchase some and do a bearing cleaning comparison between that and the brake cleaner, to see how they compare. Keep an eye out for it down the road.

You're welcome and thanks for the love, brother! It is appreciated, Gad to hear you found the video helpful! Spread the word about the channel.