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You'll check your Honda service manual and see which wire color is positive. Typically that would be the black and yellow wire. The other wire would be the negative which is the wire coming from the ECU. Based on the position of these wires, you can determine how to test using a battery.

@@BudgetGears thank you, easy enough.

@@ECRick1682 yes, those will work perfectly. The offset would be the same too. Only trailing arms with wider offset are the 90-93 integra. Every other disc trailing arm would be fine. You'll need longer ebrake cables though. Cables from a 4 door integra should work.

@@BudgetGears great, thanks for replying!

There's no name for an exhaust style. The exhaust is made for the car application. The name of the exhaust is HKS Sport. There are many makers of exhausts for the 88-91 Civic/CRX. You just have to see which one you like. You can also have an exhaust shop custom make an exhaust for you too based on how you like it.

@@joelwilliams6860 To flush the nipple. Dirt gets trapped there clogging the line. You have to flush it to free the dirt.

@@kelvinvw1 Still works completely fine. Zero issues.

Everything was interchangeable between the DA and DC trailing arms, but it is weird that the part numbers are different. I used everything from my DA arms on the DC arms. You can pretty much use any of the Civic or Integra with disc trailing arms. The only odd ball was the DA. Also, you can use the DA arms just you'll have a wider offset.

Just buy an ecu jumper harness. Depending on if you're obd2a or obd2b, just buy the correct harness and it's pretty much plug and play.

@@BudgetGears i have a honda capa ga4a what jumper harness i need

oh do you have whatsapp or facebook and i can show u what i have

@@STANUELGAUTIER Please do your own research. I'll give you a tip, just look at what ECU connectors you have and you'll know what harness you need.

@@BudgetGears I cant tell buy looking at it like that i am no export in car

Thanks for the info. I tried to search the bulbs you mentioned and doesn't seem like it's available anywhere, but maybe Russia? Looks like a good option for those that can purchase it. Based on the price on the Russian sites, it's cheaper to just go to Honda and buy oem.

Just search it up. 1:14 3mm 12v bulbs.

I didn't even know there was light there jajajaja thanks for the tip.

1:14 3mm 12v bulbs.

@@BudgetGears Thanks for the name of bulbs. I'll search it up and start replacing them

@@dandrabalfour5520 ruclips.net/video/lVAPX8hla0M/видео.htmlsi=0UX-ZLSB3yKjGE0c

@@loukanghexican2593 no, I didnt.

@@BudgetGears looks really good thanks

That's news to me. The entire Amazon listing says lifetime update and the seller told me lifetime updates. Did you experience something different?

@@BudgetGears It stated in the manual 1yr free update. I don't know why seller on Amazon and Ebay advertised it as lifetime free update when the manual say 1 yr. I return mine because it doesn't seem to be honest with their product.

@@BudgetGearsit’s lifetime updates for Honda Acura models, 1 year if you purchase a separate module for another car manufacturer like Toyota, Ford, etc. Version 1 of this tool has been out for over a year, and free Honda/Acura can still be done.

@@meldoxx7831 The easiest way for the swap is to always use your existing obd0 engine harness and modify for the changes. Doesn't matter if you're going p28 or not, always start with your original engine harness. Yes, most of the obd0 plugs are the same for obd2. You just need to add or modify for any of the differences. You can run a jumper harness for the distributor and a jumper harness for the ecu side. Depending which route you choose, you'd just get the right ecu jumper harness. Going with obd2 ecu is the most correct way to do the swap, but you will be required to add a bunch of additional sensors etc. Obd1 would bypass all the extra stuff. If you don't mind the extra work go obd2. If going obd2, consider putting in the obd2 scan port. There were also some differences between obd2a vs obd2b. I believe obd2b gets more complicated.

I believe they're the same. I don't recall the Honda service manual having separate specs for the oil pump, but it's best to check your service manual to confirm.

I don't think it's worth it at that point. The conductive paint is really only for touch up and even then it doesn't look great. If the entire line is gone, you'll need a replacement rear windshield.

I have done them in other cars, but in my car, I put in a camber kit because the rear camber kits are usually very cheap and it's nice to have the adjustability. I had no problems getting them in the oem control arms though. I just had the control arm on a elevated surface or have a socket under the hole and then smacked it in with a hammer. It should self align once you get in far enough, but of course you do need to smack it in straight.

@@kennyanderson1414 my service connector worked fine when I had my Y8. This was with a jumper harness by the ecu. Everything worked as it should. If you're running a tucked harness, there is a service connector wire remaining that you need to ground. Touch that to ground or connect that wire to the corresponding wire at your ecu connector and connect a ground to the corresponding ground and your connector will work. You can figure out how you want to do it by tracing the wires from your service connector to your ecu plugs. Fairly simple to do.

@@AllenMartizo No, I don't have links. You can find them on Amazon easily. Just search RCA adapter wires or rca wires or rca audio wires. Many results come up.

@@Mondongaso I don't know. These devices are cheap enough to purchase. Wouldn't make sense to pay a rental charge for them anyways. I do see people with these devices charging for programming on Facebook marketplace.

Thanks man. Unfortunutately, the solution worked for a very short period. The thicker weight oil combined with the oil saver slowed down the oil burn, but didn't stop it. So eventually it burned away enough to cause it to burn back at it's original rate of oil loss. I kind of already assumed this would happen because I was certain it was due to the piston rings. I can imagine this solution would work if the oil burn was due to a rubber seal, but when it comes to piston rings, the only solution is a engine rebuild.

@@BudgetGears Ultimately I agree. I think in your scenario the thicker oil probably contributed to the majority of the (temporary) improvement. What is interesting is I have noticed what you have described with my situation as well. On a previous test (just straight 5w - 40, no additive), the car would easily do several thousand miles before needing a top up. But over time, the amount of miles it would do between top ups dropped. I wonder if this is the thickness of the oil breaking down closer to a lower viscosity? Look into a piston soak with B12. Not totally convinced myself, but many people claim it is effective. And if it works, considerably cheaper than a rebuild. Of course, a rebuild is the only "proper" solution, everything else is wishful thinking to pro long it...

@@swoogles4093 I think you're probably right on the oil breakind down. I mean also oil would mix in with gas in the combustion chamber, which would further dilute the oil over time. I did see a lot of stuff on soaking with B12. I was tempted to try it out, but wouldn't be able to anymore anyways. I recently rebuilt a different engine and swapped that into my car. It now runs perfect and has more power than before. In the future, I'll probably tear down this oil burning motor and see what the issue was and do a rebuild on it.

I totally agree. If you can get your hands on a good D16Z6, that's a much more preferable engine. A p28 ecu just plugs right in and doesn't require tuning. It's also a stronger engine than the D16Y8.

Thanks for the feedback. I removed the yellow hose from the can to change to a new can. The can was already empty. Also, if you noticed, I mentioned the cans are the self sealing cans. These are the new types of refrigerant cans that have a valve in there. So it's similar to a shrader valve where you can push it and let go and it'll reseal. Unlike the old style cans where you need to puncture the can and use the puncture tool to seal the can, which over time will slowly leak out. You're right, it is illegal to purge into atmosphere, but that's only if you're deliberatly purging a lot of R12 or R134a into the atmosphere. Shops will also purge into the atmosphere as well. It's never going to be perfect. There will always be a little that leaks into the atmosphere. You can't connect the can at the gauge without the line. Male and male ends do not connect. It might be possible to do that if there was a custom adapter or if they make a short adapter that has 2 female ends. Either way, it'll still need to purge out the air first. That's the whole reason for that purge valve.

Yep. I installed a brand new control arm from them that the ball joint went out with in a month. Contacted them and they wanted me to ship the part back to them for inspection before sending out a replacement...how do you drive a car with no control arm? Wound up just taking the hit, buying a ball joint at an auto parts store ground the rivets and replaced the ball joint to get me by until I could just buy a factory replacement. I needed the car to drive to and from work.... never bought from them again

@@sinformant they will mix up part for upper model civic like a big bearing vs small bearing for base model. 3 way Shipping equal the price of another product. And it's not ur fault they mess up.

@@smartauto1166 I've had similar past experiences with Rockauto, but only after 30 days of having the part. They're usually pretty good if it's their fault and less than 30 days. They'll provide a return shipping label and all that and ship a new part. It's only a hassle having to repack it, drop it off for shipping, and then wait another week for the part to arrive. In the meantime, the car is usually rendered useless. I personally try to buy locally, but many times local parts stores don't carry the part anymore or it's so expensive that it's more than buying the exact same part from rockauto including shipping.

Yes, there were some stuck rockers. Needed to take the entire rocker assembly apart. Clean and relube every single piece and ensure free movement. Put it all back together and issue was fixed.

@@jimmychrisjimenez No longer available. Seller is gone. Probably best to constantly search on eBay to see if a new seller pops up.

Hi, It's just a 3 prong relay and only goes in one way. You can't put it any other way. It just plugs in 1 way. Just match the prongs. There's zero chance of getting it wrong cause it won't plug in any other way. You'd have to purposely plug it in wrong to get it wrong.

Maybe. Just check the part numbers. If the part numbers are the same then it'll work.

Hmm I researched the same size Spal fan before purchasing and the Spal puts out half the CFM of the fan I purchased. So far the airflow seems to be pretty good when I last checked. When both the radiator and condenser fans were running, the airflow felt about the same for both fans and one is the stock radiator fan. I do know these slim fans don't last very long though, but the CFM output should be fine. I did think about a half size radiator, but it'll change the mounting points of the ac line brackets and it'll cost a lot more. Rather just use my new stock radiator since I have it already. I also prefer the look of a full size rad. I really wanted a Koyo full size aluminum rad, but they're expensive. Thanks for the tips though.

The paint is still perfect just like how I painted it 3 years ago. There are a few rock chips on the bumper from highway driving, but thats expected. How well a paint job holds up will depend on your prep work and the quality of primer, paint, and clear coat you use. The system only determines how well it lays on.

That's a good tip. I think it's a little too late to do that though. The system is all charged up. It should be fine because the rubber o-ring should prevent it them from backing out. Thanks for the tip though.

@@NES_125 have you done tests to test your dimmer switch. You can refer to a honda service manual to test the dimmer.