Видео

Will the transducers work on carbon fiber?

Very interesting Im looking to make a voice changer for my vader Greetings from Quebec-🇨🇦 SL19723

What drill is that

Do you have a girl friend maybe you need to try one 😂

I soldered the wires onto the transducers. Make sure you keep positive with positive and negative with negative.

I have a question. I have all the parts, but how did you attach the wires from the two exciters to the amp? Did you splice wires together?

Got a video on how to build all of this if someone ( me ) bought all of it off of Amazon ?

Great tutorial. Thanks.

Your setup is awesome. Could you tell me how many of each part of your setup you purchased, I am thinking of doing the same setup for my Vader costume.

How much would you charge to set up a system like that

As a StormTrooper I love all my Vaders. But the tall ones make me giddy. I wish the JEJ master could find it's way out into the Vader Voice.

You should do a suit up video of your costume, it looks pretty cool from what I saw in this video.

The model being demonstrated is NOT an F7, it is an F3. The upper mount for the two rear vertical handrails IS correct at the rivet line for both the actual F3 and F7, so the Stewart locating dimples are correct. As for the vertical grabirons at the rear side door, the upper mount as on the Intermountain shell is the correct location, not the lower one on the Stewart F3 shell.

Your calling that an F-7 but all my F-7's only have 2 holes in the bodies. Yours has 3 holes in the side which makes me think you are adding parts to an F-3. Cheers from eastern TN

Amazing work, looks great. The distress work is really well done.

I have most of these components for sale if anyone interested, everything you need except for the Matt baker zoom solution holster. All transducers, zoom multistomp, speaker wires, adapters, cords, pile driver, amplifier and more, if anyone interested pm me.

Awesome Setup. The Links for the Parts sadly don't work and i can't copy them out of the RUclips App. Would it be possible to send me the List? Thanks in advance.

...................nice tutorial..ty. ........btw the drill= pinvise

Stewart shell, Kato drivetrain. You can use ~1/16" styrene shims fitted between the handrails and carbody during gluing to ensure consistent spacing. Best to keep them away from the ends where they might pick up some glue.

Have you a online shop other than ebay

Are you guys still in business, and do you make grabiron detail kits for Alco RS-1/2/3 first gen diesels?

Me gustaria mostraras a detalle esas corasas de unidades f7. Sobretodo el sistema para las que abren las puertas quisiera mirar esas partes. Que padres estan. Tambien muestra ya las unidades F7 con sus grapas.

This is why I love looking at model railroads that others have built, but building one myself would be like a form of torture.

What paint did you use for the silver?

A Phase 1 F3A with third side window. Very interesting. I have this engine in my collection. I remember when I bought it in 2016. I saw and thought, “this might be rare” so it was an act on impulse in the spot purchase.

1:40 Now can you do the same to the lightsaber to give it more history if you would call it.

Thank you

I just uploaded a companion video, "Painting and Weathering, Star Wars Style", that shows a more in-depth tutorial of the techniques I used to achieve this finished look.

The wash is a 10:1-ish water:paint ratio, not the other way around :)

COULD U DO SOMETHING MORE IN DEPTH

Nice! I’ll definitely give this a shot next. This is what I tried to do in honor of Rey-Lo. Lol. ruclips.net/video/X_3W7S_6BAE/видео.html

Fantastic video, I will be duplicating, thank you for the upload!!!!

Would you consider doing a more in depth tutorial please ??

..this was a bit of a weird, rushed video, in that I didn't actually think I would video it or post it. I of course removed the tray and black fabric that the hilt sits in before I painted the box, clear coated it with Testors Dullcoat after the initial coat of silver, then I used acrylic paints for the wash and drybrushing accents. Don't clear coat after the final silver accents (Polly Scale Aluminum), or they will dull out like the rest of the silver, and you want them to look like the dust has been cleared off in those areas to reveal the shine underneath.

And When you proto freelane a unit like me, the highliner shells are what work best. Although I uild what I can physically do myself and than shop the rest of the work out to someone else. Vision's not so good. But this actually helps with grab iron work. Awesome Video

Feel free to add any comments or recommendations for the videos, I hope they are informative and that you all like the parts!

We also have Barker's Trains Coupler Cut Levers, Diesel Coupler Lift Bars, and F Unit Grab Iron/Handrail Detail Sets, all proudly made in the USA! We also have 1,000's of parts available from other manufacturers, so come check out the barkydogshapes store on Ebay (link in the description)!