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Cardboard might offer a little too much resistance to the needle. I think a drag knife would be better in this case.

​@@GeoffintheGarageUnderstood, thank you

Here are the links to the airbrush, compressor and spray booth: Airbrush and Compressor: amzn.to/3U09goU Spray Booth: amzn.to/3U6ThW7 Just FYI, I made this video 6 years ago and I'm still getting a lot of use out of them with no issues! Thanks for watching!

There is a hole in a small piece of plywood attached it to the bottom of the mount. I screwed a welding tip into the hole to act as a guide and heatsink for the needle. The tip would get really hot, but the wood insulated it enough from the mount not to melt the plastic.

@GeoffintheGarage correct but I had the main issue when cutting eps foam. The eps woul melt at the needle and jam everything.

@@puchomoreno Ah, I see. I never tried cutting eps foam, so I’m not sure how to fix this. A hot wire cutter or hot knife tool might work better.

The Mostly Printed CNC. Here’s a link to the latest version: docs.v1e.com/mpcnc/intro/

I previously had the hobby version of fusion360 and used it with the Shapeoko when I got the machine. Carbide has their own design software, Carbide Create, but I was already more familiar with Fusion

Yep! Good ear. Solid song

A drag knife would be interesting! I can see it working pretty good for foamboard, but cardboard might need a few passes. Let me know if you do this, I'd like to see it. I like the needle cutter a lot, but it can be a bit tricky to set up. Getting the needle mounted just right was the hardest part, and I had a few needles fly off the motor or break when my z went too low and hit below the spoilboard (wear eye protection!). Once I got it set up, it was great for zipping through Flite Test plane layouts.

@@GeoffintheGarage I have one coming to me. I didn't want to DIY it, I have too many rabbit holes as it is. I like the thought of not having to replace a blade when dull when using a needle cutter. These needle cutters all seem to be DIY. No ready to mount options that I can find.

I'm thinking carpet pad might be a little too dense for the needle cutter to handle, but I'm not too familiar with the material. I couldn't go over 10 mm/s without the needle dragging a bit in the foamboard. Also, getting it working and not flinging needles across the room or destroying the tiny bearings took some trial and error (eye protection is a must!). I had really good luck with a 1/8" upcut endmill running conventional milling in EVA foam. Might that work in carpet pad too? If you want to give it a try, look for dkj4linux in the V1 engineering forums: He made the original and has a ton of experience and thorough build logs. It's been a while since I've done this, but here's what I can remember from the parts list: 12VDC with an XT-60 connector 2S-4S ESC with built-in BEC with XT-60 connector A servo tester for getting a PWM signal to the ESC Generic brushless motor from a quadcopter or RC place

@@GeoffintheGarage thanks for the thoughtful reply. I'll give the end mill a try!

54x44.5 inches. Here's a drawing of how I put the top together: drive.protonmail.com/urls/8D82DQYEXR#P5B3BFT2LIM8

@@GeoffintheGarage I really appreciate your reply. I'll be using your plans to make my table. Thank you so much!

@@GeoffintheGarage Built the table today with your plans. Machine comes tomorrow. Going to work perfect! Thanks again

Thanks! This is foamboard (aka foamcore). I could see it cutting polyethylene foam at a low travel speed. How thick is the PE foam are you hoping to cut?

github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MPCNC_Primo I used the C STLs since that is the conduit size I have. You'll have to print some of the brackets as well. The full list of parts is on that page as well.

@@GeoffintheGarage Thanks it was exactly what I needed so I can get started with this project, I use 25mm tubes instead because I want to see if it is possible to put a 2.2kw spindle on But thanks for the help and your time 🙂

It's not that loud if u keep d doors and windows closed and work in the daytime, if you want to have a loudness level it's not at loud as a shopVAc vacuum ( 17liters) . Typical angle grinders are way louder, a normal house blender it's a bit louder. I hope this helps.

I agree with Hollee, it's not terribly loud. I had it in an attached garage, and while I could hear it through the walls, it wasn't too bad. My wife could not hear it when she was upstairs (diagonally up from the garage) To be extra safe, you could build an enclosure for the shapeoko. It might be overkill, but that's what I'd do if I was in a townhome.

Here's a pdf with dimensions of the table surface: drive.protonmail.com/urls/8D82DQYEXR#P5B3BFT2LIM8

For me, the good was being able to make replacement parts and customize the machine to what I needed. Over the time I had the MPCNC, I used it as a laser cutter, wood router, foamboard cutter, and pen plotter. There is also a ton of community support out there. The Primo core helped a lot with some rigidity issues I had, and I wish I had rebuilt the entire machine using the Primo design instead of the older Burly model. In my experience, the machine took a bit of time and effort to dial in, and I had to do more routine maintenance than I expected to keep it running smoothly. This isn't really a "bad" thing, since I enjoy that sort of fiddling around and re-configuring to do whatever I found interesting at the time. I probably wouldn't have had to do so much maintenance if I was focusing on a single use (routing wood OR cutting foamboard OR pen plotting). Since posting this video, I've moved to a smaller place and gave up the MPCNC, but it was a lot of fun to mess around with at the time. I still have all the steppers and electronics, so If I get the space again, I might rebuild it.

@@GeoffintheGarage Thank you very much. This was very helpful.

Thanks! I can't recall the exact size, but it was around 54 wide by 48 deep; enough to give a few inches of clearance on every side. I'd say there is room for an enclosure, but I'd made it a little wider on the long side to give the box some wiggle room, especially if you are building a box for soundproofing purposes.

Carbide Motion to load the file, and so far all of my files have been run from there.

That's quite slow? How come?

@@jothain No way is it slow for such a big print. Even on a Voron. Mind you - mine's an old 2.2..no direct extrusion, old rails, etc. It definitely doesn't print well in comparison to the new ones.

I'm liking it! Solid build, very capable. What are you hoping to make with it?

Geoff in the Garage I basically have a list of things! I’m a cabinet making from a few years back and I would like to create some things that might bring in a few dollars at the market for my pocket!

Nothing major but I believe I have a few cool ideas I haven’t seen in the market yet!

Very cool! There is a ton of application in cabinetry alone. I hope to see what you make when you do get your machine!

Geoff in the Garage I can not wait to get started! I will definitely post the creations I make

I ran 12 V from the same power supply that powers my mpcnc, and attached an XT-60 connector to match the ESC.

and much, much more expensive

Other than the Cad design, would you say the Shapeoko would be suitable for a complete novice?

The ESC controlling the motor has a built in BEC, which powers the servo tester. To power the ESC, I ran 12 V from the same power supply that powers my mpcnc (one of those $20 supposed "30 Amp" 12 V DC power supplies from Amazon)

I had to add it to the order. Really handy for setting the z-axis zero point.

Thanks!

Hahaha, excellent catch! Even with pitch change and reverb added

@@GeoffintheGarage Probably my favorite song by them, cool video none the less!

@@andytrank6241 Thanks, I appreciate that!

Thanks for the recommendation! I'll see if I can get this moving a bit faster

Glad to hear it helped! Good luck with the redo, I like the redesign of the parts

Wow, that's a long print. At 0.2mm and 70%, that has got to be a solid piece!

@@GeoffintheGarage I found there were tolerance issues with .6 nozzle where the bearings insert.

Thanks man!

Sorry for the long delay in replying, I finally got a chance to revisit this project: github.com/geoffworks/LaserPWM

@@GeoffintheGarage thanks

To attach with CNC controls

@@narindersingh8248 Sorry for the long delay in replying, I finally got a chance to revisit this project: github.com/geoffworks/LaserPWM

Sorry for the long delay in replying, I finally got a chance to revisit this project: github.com/geoffworks/LaserPWM

Can you make a circuit?

Sorry for the long delay in replying, I finally got a chance to revisit this project: github.com/geoffworks/LaserPWM

Thanks! It is! I have cleaned up the electronics so it's easier to swap between the laser and needle cutter. I am also adding a vacuum table to hold down foamboard for cutting without having to place weight on top of it. There will probably be a video of that later this weekend.

Thanks!

Thanks, and good luck! Are you using the same banggood 5w laser?

I finally got a chance to revisit this project and put together a little more documentation. If you are still working on it, maybe this will help: github.com/geoffworks/LaserPWM