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Did you have to level the table top, before you check the blade is 90 degrees to the table? Good video, good info, thanks

Square should be coming off the fence and not the front edge of the top

I hate mine bcuz of d slipping. I may have a dremel tool I've never really used. Trying to see if I'm good enough to figure this out to make my 2 day deadline on this project!😢 Don't think I am.

Señor, cómo puedo quitar la agarradera

Thanks for the video brother. I was using a Ryobi belt sander and it actually had the same issue. After about 10 minutes it is now working like new. Thank you

Mine has the same issue pos trash

Thanks. It is definitely better to adjust the miter angle using the table NOT the arm, as the manual says. You are shifting the pin from its optimum position between the teeth in the gear and then locking it out of position. It will work for a while, but then any bump will likely drop the pin back to its optimum position. Much better to adjust the table, as the manual says. (though I see why you didn't want to adjust your new table)

This video helped me... I didn't do the fix that you said but it made me realize that the front roller had been adjusted too far, so simply tightening that butterfly screw all the way in solved my issue. So thanks!

So you have to loosen all 4 screws every time to tilt the head from vertical to horizontal???

Hi i just bought a used craftmen radial arm saw and do not have the msnual and on line it does not explain mutch about the srews on the back arm . I can’t seem to raise my saw anymore and don’t want to get more rong as it is . Can you help me out please . Thx

Thank you so freaking much

I like this video

Hi Allen, my name is Ms. Nadja Dee and I bought this sander used just the other day. It’s my first belly sander and it started slipping. I found your video from 8 years ago and used it to fix the issue. I’m lucky that I already own a Dremel tool and could fix it based on your solution. I know it’s many years since you posted this but THANK YOU! You saved me and I’m so grateful to you ❤️❤️😘

As stated below, the crosscut should be squared to the fence. Also, you didn't address the heel adjustment if it's off. This is important to keep the blade cutting cleanly and not splintering the wood.

Good share. Much appreciated.

I found this exact saw in my area. Would you recommend it? I have hear some radial saw can get out of alignment fairly easily.

Thanks i just purchased my first Rad saw. Its an ancient DeWalt. I need to do this. It dies criss cuts fine. When i trued to line up a 45 degree cut to the right i have to set it at almost 52 degree to get 45? Will continue research so i can set this up properly. Starting to do lot of wood working for learning and hobby.

I was just given this same model a couple weeks ago ... I just fitted a table top to it and am finally at the squaring stage .. this video helped alot Thank you!!

I fixed the problem by returning mine and by NOT buying black and Decker again.

Anyone got this problem with a triton 1200watt belt sander?

You did not align the table correctly. Your speed square belongs on the other end of the table, up against the piece of wood that you cut off of. You aligned the saw to who ever cut that particle board.

This solved the issue!!

Feliz noche.. tengo problema con las bandas, se rompen (se despega) muy rápido, apenas 3 minutos de uso.. traduciré su audio para ver si aplico su recomendación en una DS321

That is a beautiful Craftsman saw. That particular model (1975 era) was the best one they made, it has the super heavy duty solid cast iron arm, and the solid, one piece cast iron column, as well as the centrally located power switch on the handle, for increased safety. As well, this particular Craftsman cast iron saw has over 1" longer arm travel than the newer aluminum models that followed, about 14.675 vs 13.500 inches. This Craftsman also has 1" more travel than all of the Dewalt cast iron saws, in the 9" and 10" variety. All the plates are screwed on, and bolted on, unlike newer saws which had badges glued on. The top cover is made out of steel (not aluminum or plastic). This makes the saw worth collecting, as every part can be restored and repaired. The only downside to this model saw is the horrendous wood grain paint scheme, although this model is still my favorite Craftsman saw by far. I own this saw, and a newer 1978 aluminum saw. Both are equally good, and the newer saw is about 50 pounds lighter. I simply don't like the cheap covers on the newer saw.

I have this exact saw and I need some help. The nut and the plastic bevel gear fell off of the threaded, shaft elevating rod when I was attempting to raise the blade. Can you remember how I get that thread rod to come back down far enough so I can thread the nut back onto it. Presently, the rod it almost flush to the surface, and I cannot get the nut onto it. Thanks!

My Craftsman is different than the 9/16" bolt shown here. They are on the back of the arm joint, three hex setscrews on a collar underneath the power cord shroud behind where his hand is at 7:50, mine being plastic.. Took a lot of climbing and stretching but it was this video that gave me the breakthrough. I have fought this dilemma for weeks with my RAS. Moving the fence, squaring it with the blade was a disaster as wood moves over time. Humidity and temperature, it all moves. That constant removal of wood screws for the fence was getting old. Hell, 'old' was in the rear view mirror months ago!

This is the most useless tool in my workshop....I use it seldom because this machine is a wild beast that just loves to eat belts as fast as you can feed it. I swore off purchasing any Black & Decker products back in the 60's after going through 3 of their Jig Saws in ten years, but I got lured into purchasing this little beauty. Never again will I be swayed into buying something that looks so pretty.

How would you correct slight sagging? Meaning if you pull the saw all the way out, it drops a little deeper than when the saw is resting in the start position.

Thanks, I have the same model and the same problem: Replacement belts will not stay on the rollers. I don't think I have the option of returning it, so I will try the fix you showed.

Thank you for shearing. I have one exactly like this one. Does. A ybody know what modelmis it. Trying to find a manual to learn how to ise it and adjust it. Tt

Thanks. I've been tryin to figure out why the carriage on my saw is so far off. So all I need to do is loosen those 9/16 nuts and square it up, right? I'll give it a shot tomorrow. This has been troubling me since I got the saw.

same problem for me, thanks for the help.

I broke about 4 belts with simple use..

Here's an important bit of info about this unit that is largely overlooked. For the adjustment of the tracking knob to take effect the unit must be running.

Great video! Thanks!

Thank you. It did help.

I had the same problem with mine. Thanks for the video.

Many thanks. I will give this a try. I have the same issue. I thought it was my stupidity for not knowing how to use it. I bought it new and the shop didn’t want to take it back since it was used. So now it has been sitting on a shelf for years. I didn’t want to sell it because then someone else would have this badness. How can they make such bad tools. B&D is definitely not some obscure chinese cheapo.

God damn DUDE! What's with the skinny picture in the center of my screen???? Buy a real camera. I have an old Sears VHS camcorder that makes a better picture than what you have.

This is an incomplete instruction video, missing two other key adjustments while completely screwing the pooch by aligning the saw's movement to the outer edge of the table top rather than the fence itself. Also, don't shoot vertical videos! Argh!!!!

Thanks. Dusting off the exact same older model that i picked up from a pawn shop and it badly needed adjustments!

This machine is pretty good, its powerful, easy to use and gets in under edges that other belt sanders can't reach. i used mine for a year and had issues straightening the front roller to line perfectly with the rear. This caused the belt to slide off on odd occasions. When i got my tee shirt caught up in the rear roller, I was forced to open up the sander halves, then remove the base plate assembly, there I found that the front roller bar (the part behind the frt roller that looks like a scraper and retracts when you pull out the belt release handle) was angled to the right (factory screwup). Its easy to straighten up by hand, put it all back together. Now I have a machine that works better than when it was new, the rollers are perfectly in line, no belt slip offs. (I'm sanding down long rough sawn boards). I've noticed the machine likes to spark on max speed, so keep up with the bush replacements as normal. Check out dave Kirkeby's video on opening it up and putting back together is good but be aware, the models have slightly different screw setups. I had no manual and pulled the whole machine apart and put back together, not hard, allow 2 hours to get to know the machine, to fix issues, clean out and renew grease on rear roller shaft etc.

If I am right (I believe) the Craftsman does not have motor-yoke adjustment other than bevel angle. The opposite end to the bevel angle adjustment is just a plate that cannot be adjusted; correctness assumed and permanent. The Dewalt small saw has a separate adjustment in addition to the bevel adjustment. This is the three machine screw setup in the way of an isosceles triangle (120 degrees apart) that allows one to adjust for the concentricity of the rod into the round well in the yoke that receives the rod.

Missing is heel adjustment of the blade; that is, parallelism between the blade and the travel of the arm ( if the arm has be made perpendicular with the fence the blade should be perpendicular to the fence). This is functionally the same consideration as heel in the table saw; that is, parallelism between the blade and the miter slot of a TS and hence also the rip fence. This can be a apart of the calibration of yoke rotation stops (indents) vs the arm. A tiny amount of heel in the correct direction can be deliberate and desirable (heel-in), but has to be of the correct direction to prevent pinching, as in the TS as well.

For anyone watching this, the table and fence are absolutely not correct. Should be movable fence in front and behind the saw. Next, the saw and table must be aligned and the height corrected before where this video starts showing. There are many things that MUST be set correctly for them to be accurate and safer to use. If not done, you will not enjoy the real benefits of these saws. Go to this old video. ruclips.net/video/QKSkZ1vAzNc/видео.html

I bought this sander a month ago & it works perfectly. Why you have a problem, I can't explain? Belt works perfectly. My model is a DS321. Maybe they fixed your problem at factory.

Might be a good idea to demonstrate adjusting the various parts, not tell us how you did it. 🧐😒🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🇬🇧

I have same problem, it's ridiculous that the machine is so poor quality.

To clarify. I need to do a rip cut.

How do you turn the saw to cut horizontally ? I have the exact same saw. Please help !