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Yeah i uninstalled isfshax and the console is done for lmaooo RIP

You should be able to rebuild the MLC in your console using the minute menu. This method isn't only for NAND-AID Wii U, it can also be used to repair a console that lost power during a firmware update. Does your Wii U have a bad MLC?

@@Tzirf well i tried but it didnt seem to work. I think the console is completely bricked at this point. And yes i believe the console lost power during an update (i got it in that condition) I deleted the bad files nothing happened. I used recovery menu to re-cache the coldboot, that didnt work. I then followed instructions to install ISFSHAX after finding it in your vids and following your vids of using it. After seeming to have no luck with booting back into the wii u menu i tried to re-apply the non-hacked backup then deleted ISFShax and now its just stuck in a limbo state with no hope of getting into the recovery menu.

You are likely using a different version of the recovery menu than I used in my video. I have not kept up with the new releases so its also possible that some options were removed.

@@Tzirf i was using 0.5 at the moment of that comment being written, i updated to 0.6 but still only had half the options yours shows. Directly from the github.

ISFSHAX is required to rebuild the MLC. If you removed it after erasing the MLC, but before rebuilding it you screwed up. That being said, 2 blue blinks and then turns off? or does it stay blue and remain on? If it remains on, what happens if you wait a minute and push the power button? If it stays on, its an OS crash (which makes sense since you tried to erase the MLC and that would erase the OS) If it turns off its a display problem. If you wait a couple minutes does the LED do anything else? Have you tried to use the UDPIH/Recovery menu to reinstall ISFShax and use that to rebuild the MLC? If you cannot get the recovery menu working again then your only option is defuse, which is must more involved. github.com/shinyquagsire23/wii_u_modchip/tree/main/pico_defuse. It should be noted that without ISFShax installed there is a point of no return when the SLC becomes corrupt where defuse is the only way to repair the console. There seems to be some confusion about what the MLC is, the MLC is alot of things but all you really have to understand is that it holds the OS for the Wii U. If you erase it the Wii U has no OS, even if the erase fails at some point the OS will be corrupt and unusable. Additionally MLC/SLC remains synced on the console and must be synced in order to function. Anyhow youtube comments are unreliable so if you wish to diagnose this further I recommend making a post on my website. Something else worth noting, there seems to be alot of individuals contacting me, thinking they can just rebuild a failing eMMC and the console should work. While this might appear to fix the problem, the truth is its a temporary band-aid at best. At worse this will cause serious headaches because the eMMC is way too degraded to even get through the rebuild process successfully. This is why its much easier to verify the eMMC is failing by looking at logs. If the logs show its failing, repair using NAND-AID.

@@TzirfFirst of all, a huge thank you for responding to me at all, it’s not something I take for granted. The Wii U blinks blue twice and then stays blue. The disc drive still works, as it accepts and ejects games, but there is no display. I can't access the recovery menu anymore, no matter when I plug in the Pico. I also left the console on for 2 hours, but nothing changed. I believe that defusing is the only way to bring it back to life. Fortunately, I didn't have any important data on the Wii U anyway. One important question when i try to defuse my Wii U do i have to do a nand aid and when yes before or after the defuse? And is there any youtube tutorial about this ?

No you would need to use the Recovery menu to check the MLC/SLC. This doesn't require you to install or modify the Wii U. You just need a Raspberry Pi Pico with the UDPIH and an SD Card with the recovery menu.

@@Tzirf okay thank you, I’ll do that just because I’m trying to take precaution with all these console issue starting to pop up

Yes it could. I have not seen a Toshiba Wii U that actually had a bad eMMC. It may be that you have corrupt data and the console needs to be factory reset. Have you tried this yet? If that doesn't work then you may need to rebuild the MLC from scratch. While its not impossible to have a defective eMMC that is a Toshiba, its highly unlikely based on the current information available. I would be interested in having more information and validating if the Toshiba eMMC is bad. Make a post on my website if you care to share so that others who run into a similar problem can have access to the information. Cheers

@@Tzirf I’ve tried to do a factory rest, but I’m not able to access anything in the file storage. It wont allow me make many selections in the menus without freezing in between loads.

No there is no harm. Just remember depending on which version of the NAND-AID you have, you may have to solder the NAND-AID into the console before soldering the SD Card Slot in place.

You are correct some of the holders will not keep the battery in place if the cartridge is dropped. I personally prefer the tabbed batteries. Cheers

I would recommend contacting SDIO. He has far more knowledge about all of that than I do. I am curious why UDPIH and the recovery menu won't work for you though. Should be able to use that to put the region back to what it should be.

@@Tzirf SDIO doesn't say why. to not be able to use UDPIH And dumping via PRSHhax doesn't work as well. And with the instructions from SDIO wiiu can now be used normally.

If the Wii U freezes when launching anything it could be a defective 2.4Ghz Wifi Module. Test and validate the eMMC is failing using the recovery menu and a udpih. You can rebuild the MLC by using the guide provided by SDIO: gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-upgrading-rebuilding-wii-u-internal-memory-mlc.636309/ This would be the same guide used to rebuild the MLC on a NAND-AID. Cheers

Pins were not heated. There would be no reason to do that unless you planned on removing the connector and replacing it. I do not know the history of the console though and far as I can tell it was opened and someone messed with that connector which is why the top pin was already bent and the latch was broken.

@@Tzirf ok, so it must have been the fact that this was a hyper up close zoom in of a super small part that was throwing me off making it look like it was a really soft metal. Really is somethin trippy.

You only need to back them up if you plan on restoring data. If you look at my written guide it explains that without a backup you will have to rebuild the MLC, thus losing all data on the console. Honestly its the preferred method as restoring corrupt data and then repairing it is extremely time consuming. I recommend you start with the recovery menu + UDPIH. You will need to install ISFShax using the recovery menu to repair a console with a NAND-AID. www.tzirf.com/nintendo-consoles-handhelds/wii-u-nand-aid-installation-guide-complete/

@Tzirf udpih didn't work for me. It was that bricked. I tried many many times.

​@@christiangetchell8218 You can use de_fuse to boot stroopwafel instead of udepih or ifshax. Ifshax need to be installed before it breaks and udepih only work if the mlc still has enough data on it for the system to draw the wii u boot screen. Only complicated thing about de_fuse is that it requires you to solder the raspberry pico on the wii u board but it can be used to revive ANY brick, even blinking blue light!

@@christiangetchell8218 Have you attempted to blindly load ISFSHAX? Sometimes the recovery menu is working but there is no output on some of these consoles to see that. If that doesn't work for you. Then the only way of seeing what is going on with the console is to use Defuse. github.com/shinyquagsire23/wii_u_modchip/tree/main/pico_defuse. Also because I have not personally completed a Defuse project yet I probably cannot answer any questions about it. That being said there is a user named SDIO who is active on GBAtemp.net and knows far more about Defuse than I do.

I am finding out that youtube comments are unreliable. I apologize I responded to you asking this on another video, but apparently it never got posted. I use an Amscope SM-4TPZ Trinocular microscope.

lol your good brother I absolutely love these videos I appreciate your response. Please keep them coming I dig these videos

Error reading disc could be a failing drive or damaged disc. You can isolate the disc reading error by checking with a known working game disc that you verified in another console. If all games are freezing on the splash screen I believe that indicates a Defective Bluetooth Module is present in the console.

@@Tzirf ok but there’s this weird thing where the only disc that reads is Splatoon

@@NebulazGamez if it reads splatoon i guess its your games that are messed up, the fact it can read at all makes me guess that, either or your wiiu really only wants you playing splatoon

Appreciate it!

I purchased the a entire socket off Amazon. I removed the latch from the replacement socket I purchased and used it in the console. However there are different versions of the socket. If you are doing a repair on a NEW Nintendo 3DS you need the 4 pin Touch Screen Ribbon Socket. Make sure the latch matches your design in the console. If you cannot find it on Amazon I recommend checking Aliexpress. Cheers

@@Tzirf I have a nintendo 3ds XL and I would like to buy a latch because mine is broken so I can't repair my joystick

I have seen and heard for years how using an eraser on NES/SNES/SEGA carts will clean them. While it is true that it removes some dirt/gunk it also spreads it around, which is something you won't be able to see unless you have a microscope. That being said I did use this method of cleaning pins when I was a teenager so I know it works to some extent. However I have found the magic eraser works best for cleaning & polishing the pins. As for WD40 contact cleaner, yes this is probably similar to Deoxit. I have not personally used it, but according to the manufacturer, it removes dust, dirt and oxidation in electronics and is fast drying and leaves no residue. If you use it and find it works please leave a comment.

@@Tzirf Out of interest have you tried what you did above with isopropyl as in isopropyl and the magic eraser under the microscope i’m wondering if the slight abrasive is what mostly does the actual cleaning more than the type of cleaner one would use.

@@MisHapMusic Yes I have, IPA is absorbed/evaporates quickly so you have to reapply it constantly. Also its not great at removing oxidation on the pins, which is why I said Deoxit works better for this. You could certainly try it with IPA but it takes way more effort and much longer than 5-10 minutes to get the same results. Also if the oxidation is closer to corrosion your out of luck, you need deoxit or a similar product.

No the brightness on the IPS (left GBC) is set to max, while the AMOLED Display is set to level 7 out of 10. The camera makes it look brighter than it is in person. Neither display is too bright to be played in a dark room and both have enough brightness levels to be adjusted so that anyone can play them comfortably

@@Tzirf How do you compare it with your phone's brightness? example, I can't use my phone above 5% brightness without getting too uncomfortable.

​@jackipiegg yeah I was wondering the same thing my current ips is too bright in the dark that I use the red filter. I just ordered the oled so I'm gonna see how that compares

I am not currently able to accept consoles being mailed to me for repair. I would look locally and see if there is anyone who does this kind of repair. Are you sure its the home button and not the power button? I am not aware of a 3DS that needs the home button to power on. Which console is it?

It’s the regular 2ds model. I’m not very knowledgeable about this sort of stuff, but, the ribbon cable latch connector thats on the motherboard for the home button is broken off. I don’t really know what treatment the console needs, but I assume it would need a replacement connector or for the broken one to be re soldered. Let me know your thoughts, thanks.

You can purchase a NAND-AID on eBay. I keep an updated list of sellers in the written installation guide you can find at this link www.tzirf.com/nintendo-consoles-handhelds/wii-u-nand-aid-installation-guide-complete/