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@@SunsyloSouvannaraj-rh6zm do a compression check. Loan a tool from AutoZone or Oreilly. That will tell you if your valves are bent.

@@shelbydogg thank you so much for the advice and I will definitely do that 👊🏼

Glad I could help out. Almost every one that I check is binding a little bit.

Sorry, too busy with other stuff. If you want to get up and running quickly, just buy a brand new harness from Chris at hotwire. You will be running in less than a week after receiving it then you can move onto the other things like the exhaust and tuning it.

@@johnbuck1879 thank you sir! Others still can’t seem to figure it out.

@@shelbydogg it took me a bit. Down on the corner of your diagram you mention the grounds from the black plug. For some reason I thought the case ground would suffice, but it does not absolutely need to ground pins 9&18 of the black connector. Once I did that all was right with the world

@@tommy-time5240 Thanks. The solenoid was good on the cheap replacement carb, I noticed the hot wire lost power when the key is turned off.

Look on eBay item # 383786231337. I see it for $25.99 right now. Alternator External Voltage Regulator For Porsche 911 914 1965-1977 Adjustable

@@shelbydogg I’m on it! thx sir

Go to eBay and find one that looks like mine in the pictures. Also showing in the comments.

@@joshanator84 Challenger uses the ECU to control the alternator. If you want to control it externally, then you use the ones that you mentioned.

The b-type regulator

You’re Welcome. Every time I touch one of these printers now even if it’s just replacing a fuser in a maintenance kit, I pull out the paper tray and reach in and move that arm back and forth. I usually end up putting a little grease in there and it immediately stops the stickiness. Without having to take the whole thing apart.

@@eduardodelatorre8610 I do not sell wiring harnesses. I just make videos showing what is working for me. Yours still not working?

@@shelbydogg I can get the engine to turn on by bypassing it and it idles very nice, but I can’t get it to turn on with the key or shifted into gear

When I get home. What is the part number on your pedal?

@@shelbydogg when I get home I will send it to you. A little bit of what I’m doing, I did an engine swap on my 2013 Durango I put a 6.1 hemi in it

@@eduardodelatorre8610 ruclips.net/video/nVt5IA3bnyo/видео.htmlsi=uQ2syZBisyyYWrsI

Does the wire spark when you pull the trigger and touch it to the ground clamp? Sounds like you bought a bad welder. If it does spark then hook your ground as close to the part that you are welding so you don’t blow the cars or truck’s electronics. And unhook your battery too. If you were using flux core wire the ground wire hooks to the positive terminal of the welder. If you end up adding argon gas to the welder then the negative will go to the ground clamp. If you were just starting out, try to get a cheap gas argon welder.. The welds are so much cleaner. Flux core is more for welding outside when you have no shielding gas protect your welds.

@@shelbydogg didn't try touching it to the clamp, gonna try that. I appreciate you answering back so fast.

Honda seems to know what they’re doing for everything with all of the older models. I’m sure they saw the reason to do what they did with this piece. My 2002 civic is still going after 245,000 miles and the only thing I’ve worked on was the timing belt replacement, adjusting valves and grinding off a little bit off of the AC clutch because it wasn’t always grabbing. Other than that nothing else has had to be replaced including the alternator or AC compressor. Look at the old motorcycle engines that keep running forever. I am working on Chinese clones now that the Honda engines are so easy to work on.

@@shelbydogg Im glad youve had such success (as have I with my 260k 2002 Accord).Its just that Im looking at my broken spring, and upon further research, have come across several others who've experienced the same. Someone said that this new design allows the spring to essentialy actively ride(keeping tension in the belt) Apparently in the old reliable design, the spring was just for initial tension, and becomes unnecessary once the bolt is locked down. Also heard Honda issued a TSB related to this issue. Apparently on this new wheel you have to position it so a tab is locked in place prior to pulling a factory 'grenade' pin?? Then attaching the spring. On an INTERFERENCE engine, the last thing you want is that spring to wear out from movement over time, resulting in a FUBAR engine.

If you can squeeze the belt and see the tensioner moving, even after the bolt is tight, that is letting you know that that lock has is in the wrong spot

The tune is different because the 5.7 had MDS, unless it was a manual trans. The 5.7 also had EGR. The 6.1 didn’t have either. You can have a tuner turn that stuff off in your current PCM and tell it it is a 6.1 now or grab the new computer to use or pull the tune out of it. If you had an HP tuner, you can do it yourself.

Hi Pretty! Wasuuuupp?

My research only works with ECUs up to 2010. You should get a hold of Chris at Hotwire and ask him about your setup.

I am a professional. lol

If the check valve gone you pull it up by hand no big deal no water in it

We're your 1/8" stainless steel air craft safty cable? Go through eye on pump an hooks to well cap so when conection or fitting fails you don't loss the pump. You didn't take your rubber tork arester off the pvc an put it on your new pex pipe. You need that an set so it rubs well case to stop pump from turning on start up. You also need to lube up the rubber seal on pitless before putting together using Vaseline

When I called the well company about five years ago, I didn’t know anything about Wells. The guy could tell by what I was asking. He said the minimum would’ve been $1000 to pull it up. So I watched H2O mechanic on RUclips and he taught me all about my pitless adapter and everything about wells. Also learned how to pull out my 30 year old electric furnace and install my own 3.5 ton heat pump and air handle on “RUclips University” and has been working great for 5 months so far. Your well guy must be a friend or relative.

I had a new $800 pump but returned it after I saw that I had a Goulds pump. Now that I changed to roll pipe and have my rollers, I can change that pump in less than three hours.

I had to pull it up to see what was down there and how deep it was. Do it the right way the first time.

Just as long as I know and you know what a diode is, I know I am not alone in the world. L O L.

Yes sir. This house is built in 93 and I bought a 12 years ago. As far as I know it’s the same pump that’s been in there 31 years. If you spend more money the first time did you be worth it to have a better quality part, especially since it is 200 feet in the ground before I learned about Wells RUclips university, well company was going to charge me $1000 just to pull it up out of the hole.

@shelbydogg OH ok cool. I got a well at my house also. I was curious on how long we'll pump usually last. I been at my house for 9 years and the house was built in 2014

@@musclecargarage8882 check out H2O Mechanic’s RUclips channel. Before I watched him, I knew nothing about my well or pitless adapter.

@@shelbydogg I'll check him out thanks

You getting spark?

i havent pulled the plugs yet, but there is signal to the coils and injectors. with the voltmeter it reads 12v for a different connection, but 190 for the red wire on both the coil and injector.@@shelbydogg

I love it but my wife says it’s too hard? Good thing that she has her own bed. I get a great night’s sleep in it. I guess you’ll have to find out for yourself but it would be a BITCH to return. But anything can be returned at Sam’s Club.

You’ll have to search the web or watch my videos. It’s all out there. I’m too busy with other things. Sorry. And Blake’s Quick Harness or HotWire’s HotRod harness will have you running in less than an hour, if you spend the money.

I understand. I cant find any on paper diagrams on doing this anywhere online, which surprises the hell out of me. DIYhemi and and other premade harnesses are way out of my price range. For some reason theres only a couple videos with guys showing off there work but no real explanation on how it works. Im not an electrical guy. Dont know were to even start, but if i had a diagram on paper i could quickly understand how it all works. Appreciate your time

I don’t have any information on C4 Pins. My swaps all went on manual transmission cars. But it sounds like you have everything you need, but have to move it to the swapped vehicle. Good Luck!

If not new, no clip.

The first step would’ve been to see if it’s talking with a reader. That ASD and fuel pump handshake is a good sign. You still don’t know if any other drivers inside are bad until you put it on an engine and run it.

There was a PCM repair place on eBay I’ve used to check out a PCM. They test all the circuits and sent it back for about $100. I don’t remember the name of the place, but I’m sure you can find it.

Cool, thanks for the help. I have 3 PCMs. All 07 Durango. So I don’t think I’ll send it in. It’s already 100 to unskim it with hp tuners

@@skidmark7199 I found a MV2 hp tuner on Facebook for $200. If you have your own, the $100 for credits is worth it. You can remove your own Skim AND tune it or have it tuned. If you don’t have one, you’ll pay the $100 for someone else to have your PCM’s credits.

I bought an mv3. Unskimmed 1, 2 to go. I msg with diyhemi/sublime tech to make sure I’m doing it right

Glad to help out. Those things could be a pain to get out watching someone else do it first on RUclips university helps a great deal. I learned to put in my own 3 1/2 ton heat pump, both inside and outside units myself from RUclips University and probably save myself $10,000 from some of these rip off HVAC companies.