- Видео 5
- Просмотров 60 775
wheelstandr
Добавлен 11 янв 2008
Can am 570 muffler sound clip
Flowmaster HP-2 Muffler. 2” Using two exhaust hangers with J hook rods removed. One Amazon 2 1/4 stainless tip. Stock pipe to muffler is 1 3/4 so another 1/2 wide piece of pipe was welded on the end, then to the 2” v-band clamp. V-band not necessary, but I have two more mufflers, and wanted the flexibility to remove and replace at will. I liked this one so much, I didn’t continue. I plan to anyway, and will likely sell them on eBay. I know one of them is excellent but has more treble. The bass tone this one provides was exactly what I wanted. Very similar to an HMF Titan QS, but hundreds less! You will need a flash or module to run this muffler. Rev’s fast because of that, but mostly the ...
Просмотров: 222
Видео
Optispark Distributor. Watch before you buy!
Просмотров 58 тыс.2 года назад
In this video, I describe an epidemic in common aftermarket Optispark distributors. I hope to save my fellow man from suffering the same fate I did.
Blasting Cabinet Upgrades Pt. 2
Просмотров 313 года назад
Upgrades I forgot to include in the first video.
Blasting Cabinet Upgrades Pt.1
Просмотров 453 года назад
Pt.1 of my L&M Fleet beed blast cabinet upgrades. Pt. 2 has the details I forgot to include here.
Just my opinion, spend the money on the MSD pro billet and forget it.
Based on what I'm seeing in the picture on the cheap opticspark that looks like there is three indentations going along each side. Looks like one would just need to drill out one of those spaces to retard or advance the rotor
Not sure if you're still checking this, but for someone who is just looking for reliability and not tuning, etc...would you recommend the Torqhead conversion? I noticed you and a couple others in the comments talking about it and it's the first I've seen of them. Looks interesting.
@@TwentyFortySeven Try Petris. Some guys in the comments say there really good. Haven’t heard otherwise. If you go with the efi connection 24x or torque head. Make sure you research. One of them is better. I forgot though.
I converted my water pump to electric as well. Absolutely no issues
I had a torqhead 24x cam shaft position sensor went out 24/7 efi connection probably would be the best way to go
Did you purchase a harness from Innovative Wiring to make the conversion, or make your own?
Im doing my first OS on a 1995 Corvette and plan on trying to keep factory base. What actually happens to these ?
The optical sensor gives up, or coolant gets inside the distributor years that were vented via drilled holes to daylight. If you have lower mileage on your distributor, you may want to clean the Mitsubishi optical sensor instead of relying on an aftermarket. That’s what I did. If yours is high mileage, you may have no other choice.
So , just your original cap was bad?
I tried to inspect it and three of the 6-40 screws broke so I figured just buy new cheaper one, and put the own sensor in. I had no faith in anything out there, so why spend more when the key component was being re-used. I never anticipated that they could be out of clock.
@wheelstandr Man , I'm working on a 95 , rough idle , misfiring and backfiring back through TB. It did all at once , owner said he reved it up a couple times and these symptoms started immediately. Ran good before so he says. I got good injector ohms , noid light flashes and have spark all be it orange. I'm betting on bad cap and rotor. What do you think? I did FSM steps and it says distributor.
Why didnt u jusy buy a quality Petris and not a cheap amazon knockoff. SMH
Personal I'm looking at eliminating the optispark , placing a cam angle sensor in its place and run a speeduino dropbear stand alone ECU 👍
All opti sparks are trash. Best thing to do is delete it with a Torque head or EFI Connection 24X. The only benefits i get from running a MSD distributor is that they always allow me to drive him when they fail and they can be repaired by MSD.
What you're saying is true. I had intended on using my low mileage sensor in a new body and obviously that didn't work. As you saw, I had to recondition the factory distributor using a new cap and rotor. I was intending on selling the car, but after all I had to do from it sitting 20 years, I figured its a new car again. The car had a bad respray so I stripped it down and it just got repainted last Wednesday after being in the body shop for 6 months! It's dark blue metallic instead of black now. If this distributor issue comes up again I'm going to do as you said or put an LS like my 93 caprice. Dirty Dingo mounts, Holley manifolds and accessory brackets. Cost a lot more than I thought. I'm the local carb guy and have the Edelbrock carb intake box, and harness, but cant use it. The rear float bowl of a Holley touches the firewall and theres absolutely no way to get an air cleaner on it. Now I have to get an intake, rails, ECU and harness. Next time I need to get an engine from a Camaro or Corvette if I can afford it. I need to get my white SS clone running!
You also have a problem with Vac with distributor put together try blowing through vac ports . You cant the distributor caps were not upgraded for vac ports Try blowing through them you cant. the 2 plastic rings seal bad gasses and water in .making cap flex and hit rotor also till finally loosening cap screws untill vac starts working. but now can let water leaks in. How to fix I took wirecutters and Sissor clipped and brok out quarter inch of 2 rings lined up at 6 oclock opposite the plug in for wiring. now vac works as intended
I had really good luck with an A1 Cardone Opti. It was a '93 so I had to install vacuum to it. I found one new for $80 but usually the go for $200+
4:21 I had issues with 2 off rebuilds so no more biggest headache on these cars so took my time n it got expensive but I purchased a NEW OLD STOCK FIRST SERIES GM PART IN BOX NEVER USED PERSON OWN 3 VETTES WITH THE LT1 96 AFTER MARKETS ARE GARBAGE
Huh?
This is why i like the L98 TPI way more.
guys used to ditch those and go magnetic pick up with a LTcc kit if i remember right
Ok so aftermarket has came in and corrected the problematic spider/tbi with retro fit mpfi systems on the small black v6/v8s ... Is there not a way to retro fit a distributor-less ignition system of these style engines?
Yes. www.torqhead.com/index.html
Should of bought an msd in the beginning and been done with it
I didn’t because they are problematic too.
Don't buy the cheap China MSD look a likes. If you can find an OEM Opti Spark that's still new, buy it. Back in the 2000's I went through 2 Opiti Sparks a year. They do not like high RPM. A company called Deltech came around and developed coil on plug and that eliminated the Opti all together. It was pricey back then but worked flawlessly. Since I am not in the LT1 game anymore, I am not sure if they are still in business. But the good thing with todays after market ECM's, you can do LS type coils on it with a crank position and cam position sensor and have way more tuning capabilities than with the opit spark. I can tell you one thing, watching this video made me cringe.
External torx.bit. Doesn’t matter what they’re called. it just matters that you know how to use them. 5:13
Glad i found this, my 93 is still has its original opti and it just ticked over to 130k miles lol
Don’t know if you can even get a good Opti anymore, much less an OEM. Torque Head may be the only answer
Good to know. Thanks
Sorry, I'm long winded. I'm not a professional RUclipsr. Glad if it keeps you from getting stuck with a dud distributor.
Don’t buy China junk
Thanks for the video! Lots of great info! I haven't seen a opti-spark engine in some time (I'm a Cadillac mechanic). So, this 96 brougham with 5.7L P opti-spark get towed in. It's been to several shops, no one can fix it. It dies out after the engine is hot. Up on driving it, it pings like hell. I look in front of the engine, & a new aftermarket opti-spark with the red cap. I used to be able to get this new from Ac Delco all day long, but day, none of my warehouses carry it any longer! I ordered one from O'Relly's (WAI) & yup it's clocked wrong! Didn't check AutoZone, but suspect the same thing. I found a used OEM distributor (out of a camaro), so I got it for $60 & cleaned it up & transfered over the cap & rotor. Ran like a champ! I was interesed to see if I could dis-assemble the aftermarket distributor & clock it correctly, with out breaking it. Since the car was fixed, I had nothing to lose! I disassembled the aftermarket distributor bare. I heated the nose of the distributor (where the wheel goes) with my induction heater. I suspected the bottom hub (where the camshaft pin is) comes off. When I tried to press it off on my arbor press, it felt like the base might break. What I did, was I took a punch & hit it in the center & knocked the bottom shaft off. I wasn't hard. I then lined up the bottom shaft/hub to the #1 index. On top, (watching your video & verifying on the OEM distributor), the little bump lines up to the crease/raised line on the upper right hand on the distributor. I tapped on the hub snug & re-checked a couple of times because it kept getting dis-aligned. Finally, I took it to the arbor press & pressed the hubs together. Lined up prefectly! I felt the hub/shaft bottom out, so I know the height is fine. Done! An easy fix!
3:34 yikes 6:10 there is a gent that upgrades the Opti to the 96 and newer which has the Mitsubishi pickup and rarely will fail after that. Buick didnt have this problem as from the get go they had a different optispark system which was adopted by chevy/pontiac once the failures from the 92-94 modles where prevalent.
Question, is that cause it's for a different car that's why it's advanced meaning like example if u bought it for a impala ss and they send u a Trans am or camaro one .is there a difference on them or no
There’s no difference.
@@wheelstandr thanks
saved our day here! thanks from seattle washington
Glad it helped!
maybe one do it yourselfer in a ten thousand is going to follow your instructions. yes the optispark is a pain, thankfully they cost less than 100 dollars.
@@siliconvalleyengineer5875 I really wished I had planned out the video. I’ve posted 4-5. If I knew how to edit, I would repost a more thought out version. My plan was just to buy the cheap one and reuse the optical sensor cap and rotor. Everyone thought I was trying to buy this cheap one and put it on as is. I just didn’t expect the cheap one to be out of clock. People still asking me what they should buy. The only one I saw in the comments. Was a lot of money. My best advice is to reuse the Mitsubishi sensor in a properly clocked base. At least people know how to check that now.
@@wheelstandr The problem with the optispark is that is constantly subjected directly and indirectly to hot water condinsation since its located behind the water pump. The how water condinsation passes through even the tightest distributer body shorting out and causing electrical shocks to the optical circuitry. Optisparks last 2 years maximum if your lucky. My 1994 Z28 has fried 5 optisparks if 8 years.
Thanks for this video. My Buick shut off. My buddies shop replaced the opti and the car kept stalling at idle. P0335,P0336 codes come up. Replaced opti again with a accell, car kept stalling at idle. Replaced crankshaft sensor, replaced pci, car stalls at idle, same codes. Unfortunately the original opti is long gone since at the time we didn't know the headaches with these. Not sure if I'm screwed now, once the cars warm it stalls all day and has valves tapping. Would y'all get a old opti and rebuild or what because damn it's going on 7 months and I'm about ready to push the car into a lake
Very sorry to hear about your dilemma. It’s tough to say, but with no results from two Optispark’s, and changing the cam and crank sensors, the only other things left are the wires and plugs to those having an issue. Also the only other two things in that system are the ignition coil and module. You may have to go to an auto electric specialist to retain your sanity. Stuff like this is definitely maddening.
Could be a MAP sensor
Icm bolts to the head. By the coil heat kills the thermal grease .on the heat sink
Well, here I am a year later lol 3 different shops plus my time. Misfires when warm. Looking for a ditch to lay her in 😭
Just bought the mostplus all black cap one going to use it for the cap and rotor since it was one of the cheapest deals on those and came with a new cord too. Hows your frankin opti holding up?
Working great. At the end of the day, it was mostly about welding the holes and re tapping them. Put the most plus cap and rotor on with the new screws. Done. I just didn’t see good enough feedback on any so I figured swap the good sensor in the new one and blue loctite the screws, should be good. Never even considered it being out of clock. It sure made a simple job a pain in the butt.
Where did you get the rubber piece, That’s attached to the Throttlebody ?
It came with the Spectre cold air system.
so when you take an optispark apart is there a point of reference or direction to properly put the rotor back in? so the timing is correct
You really shouldn't take apart an opti. You can find the correct parts from aftermarket vendors (USA made, not from overseas), they will come with a warranty and no messing around necessary. If you have no choice, the reference you are looking for is on the metal wheel which slots into the camshaft. If you are doing this, odds are the cheap opti won't make it longer than 3 months depending on how often the motor is started.
change it over to ls coils, best move ever on an lt 1
How
There is nothing wrong with the Optispark. Anyone that says that is just ignorant. Sure its in an inconvenient position, but it is a very accurate distributor. The reason for them failing are usually either people thinking they don't need maintenance or the waterpump failing. With a proper installation and not being cheap on a replacement Optisparks are very reliable and fine.
@@barryscarlett462 It is A LOT of work and VERY expensive to switch over to an LS based ignition and even then you still need the optispark's sensor because that's how the ecm still uses the crank sensor. In all honesty just stick with the Optispark.
I don't consider myself ignorant, since i probably have more experience with these than most anyone since i have worked on them since the day they came out. I have changed more of them than you changed your babies diapers. they were junk from day one and they continue to be junk especially the replacements. the only real fix is ls coils. might want to watch who you call ignorant, might come back to bite you.usually happens to know-it-all amatures. you may end up in rush hour traffic and can't move.
torque head ltd @@barryscarlett462
Yea delco by far the best. My original finally failed at 250k on my 97 Z after several coolant leaks. Purchased an aftermarket brand and im not gonna say the name and it didnt last 3 months. Left me stranded and a huge tow bill. Returned it for another and that one lasted about a month and a half. Said screw it goin back with delco and has been running great every since.
Tytytyi new nothing about this
Buy AcDelco parts if you can find them.
Love flowmaster! It sounds great!
Thank you! I absolutely love it.
One of the items you briefly mentioned was the conversion to an electric water pump. The benefits are 1) when done correctly you eliminate the possibility of a coolant leak onto the opti-spark 2) better coolant flow at idle 3) and you eliminate one possible oil leak in your timing cover. I did mine several years ago and it still runs great.
How does one make the pump electric? Thank you! 🙌🏼
Check out my article in the Corvette forum (see above) I forgot the exact way I wired it, but it was easy.
That’s exactly what I did and haven’t had a problem with the optical since”electric water pump “
I mean I have a 1997 WS6 trans am with 85k miles and it still has the original optispark and water pump. No problems. Also it never really gets hot either. If you install the stuff right you should not have issues with it.
@@Someguy6571your 97 has 85k. That may have something to do with it. Also your experience (as you should be willing to admit) has certainly NOT been the norm.
Sounds great, I would love to hear a drive by
Must be a China special, been working on cars for 40 yearsand the amount of shitty parts that are peddled is astounding! Always use OEM or aftermarket that is made in the USA. Unless you want to do it twice or three times, time really is money! Thanks for sharing this, sorry it happened to you. Keep on wrenching!
I couldn't find a stock one anywhere. I didn't see good reviews on MSD ACCEL even! When I bought it, I knew my Mitsubishi sensor was still good, so I figured, just take the new one apart, put in my sensor, and blue loctite all the screws. Bam! Done! Nope. If this thing was clocked correctly, I'd been off to the races. Welded up the holes on the original, re drilled and tapped 6-40 thread and ran the cap-rotor from the Chinese one with the new screws. Works great. My only regret is not finding a way to add new grease to the hub bearing. Hopefully the 96 grease is good for a while, but if I find a way to do it, I'm taking it off, and greasing it. The cap and rotor at Autozone was $117, and didnt impress me. When I made this video I was tired and frustrated. I also don't know how to edit which is my new goal in life. Captions, music, etc. I could have made a lot of content by now, but haven't because I'm not happy with all the mistakes like forgetting e-torx! I couldn't spit it out! I felt like the word needed to get out on this no matter what, since its almost impossible to get a good one at all anywhere. I'd have to look through the comment, but someone mentioned a company that stepped up. Not a mainstream company most guys would know about. Sounded promising. Thanks for stopping by.
This is the company making good ones according to some comments petrisenterprises.com/collections/frontpage/products/1995-1997-optispark-distributor
this is why i stopped working on cars. the shop i was at could not get good parts. we used to and all suppliers changed. even gm ford and fiat i mean dodge 2 couldnt get parts. because their supplier and autozone use the same supplier in china. my daily toy is a 94 chevy s10 blazer. i picked it because cheap parts were everywhere and a dime a dozen. i literally cant order parts for my car bro. chevy has none and parts stores are calling discontinued on most parts now.
How time consuming was the electrical water pump reconfiguration?
If you have access to a press, its no big deal. Press the shaft off of the impeller and install the included freeze plug in the back. From there the main thing is having a harness to run it. Gary @ Innovative wiring is the only show in town that I'm aware of that makes one just for our cars. He lost his son and he and his wife were having health problems so his site is down. I emailed him while writing this. I'll let you know if he'll take care of you. If not, that up's the difficulty, unless you are comfortable making your own relay harness.
The one on the left is from ebay. Junk. The one on the right is an msd knock off. Also junk. Just buy an ac Delco and you won't have any problems.
you sound so enthused
Yep, the AC Delco is far better than anything else, every 100 thousand miles, pull it off clean it up relube the bearings, clean up the cap and rotor, good for another 100 thousand, 300 thousand on my red 93, original opti, I bought a 95 for road course tacking only, had an Accel on it already, it quit working so I put an MSD on it would quit every time the engine would get warmed up so I went to the junkyard found an AC been working great ever since.
I love it!
Is there anyplace where I can get an original or parts for the original Optispark?
@@mrdeanv4414 Look up Petris Opti spark (Petris Enterprises), I think they can fix you up, all of the aftermarket are poorly made, even MSD, very disappointed.
Would you recommend the ac delco opti from advance auto parts ?
@@itsonlydavid2046 If you buy one from them, open it up and look for the Mitsubishi symbol on the optical sensor. That’s what makes them good besides the fact a factory one will be clocked properly.
Buy Torque Head. Be done with that crap.
Could buy a good used 5.3 and swap like I did my other car for that money. Easier to work on too.
I bought a cheap Optispark distributor just for parts to rebuild the original. Hopefully I don't need much out of it but im prepared. I haven't done it yet but I'm getting all the parts together now so I can get it all done at one time
If the "good" parts in your original failed, what makes you think swapping a cheaper modules parts in would help? Wouldn't it be better to use a junkyard oem optispark if you wanted to rebuild? If you've already done this, Has it held up?
@@BigWheel.Parts in the original probably had like 300,000 miles on it that's why🤦🏾♂️
just did the paper clip trick in my c4 95 port and there were 2 codes... C34 and H34... is this the Optispark?
"c" means current code. " H" is a code stored in your computer history. 34 is your map sensor
@SStupidSStuff yes and Thank you... but I already know this...
I have changed out the Ignition Coil, Ignition Module, Electric Fuel Pump, Fuel filter, Fuel pressure regulator, Map sensor, Idel air sensor and the Fuel positioning sensor and the internet says that All these part should be replaced after 75,000 miles so i did just that.... my C4 just turned over 100,000 miles and just started running bad... rough Idel and making a popping and pinging backfiring sound so yesterday I changed all Spark plugs and wires the old factory wires were numbered from the factory... however there was no change in the way it ran.. I've been told that the OBD1 Scan Reader will not tell you if the Optispark is bad or good... so what's the point...? Just keep changing parts until you fix it or what...? The C4 Vette with the LT1 is an amazing car but the idea of the Optispark was STUPID...! THANKS FOR NOTHING GM.... If anyone reading this has any ideas concerning my problem I'm open to any ideas... Thanks Happy New Year
Fuel injectors. I have a 95 impala ss and had to replace the injectors because of clogging. Had to replace at 120k miles. Tunercat works great at diagnosing the issues. It will tell you if your opti is loosing high or low resolution signal.
@christopher c hey Chris thanks for the info... where can I find this Tunercat? And I did get my 95 C4 running yesterday... it was the Optispark.. she Purs like a Big Black Kitty...
Wow!! That’s how opti’s can be bad out the box! I’d also add while it’s out update to a heavy duty rotor. Because those plastic rivets holding the rotor tip won’t last with high RPM..
I used the Mostplus cap and rotor on the stock base after I welded and tapped the screw holes on the factory base. If they dont fail right away, I won't get as mad. IF they fail early, I will be really pissed.
@@wheelstandrbro u need to play with loctite retaining compound 660 I think is the number. Could rivet it on or even 3m panel bonding epoxies there's a few dozen formulas even tap able.lord fusor makes even more compounds trust me I get the welding n tapping but damn fella lol n what we can't change optic sensor? N by sounds of optic sensor what base line or exciter wheel operates it? I guess I'll find out soon enough on a 94 w 65k n a dead miss. If optic and coolant steam sure tf will cloud pick up window odd though driving in rain doesn't fk it up but ya just thought I'd toss out a few options and yes yes yes your 100 percent supposed to rotate to top dead n clock everything or extensively mark all 3 components never in life pulled any distributor without one of two ways n they all still kinda blow to line up oil pump drive if applicable. One might think it's simple as popping rotor n moving it popping back on but I'm sure it's groved. I'm lost as why tf not crank trigger it w the 6al box n set up but again I will find out soon lol
those are E-torx sockets
Everyone is telling me, but I always forget. Maybe this time it will sink in.
The most important thing is the optical sensor with the Mitsubishi logo on it.i always keep my old opti and just replace the cap and rotor, and silicone it all around on the gasket it brings,and replace the 2 o'rings on back and you'll never have a problem, those after markets are garbage, even the aluminum housing because there not spaced right,the metal disk that rides on inside the optical sensor is not supposed to rub on the sensor..
I haven't started mine yet buy I already asked why not use factory optic thank u for answering that one smdh. Poor guy drilling n tapping needs loctite retaining number 660 n any metal on metal ain't separating till over 300f. 3m panel bond or lord fusor theirs tons of compounds for all types of surfaces many drill and tap able!! I'd have riveted the whore n sent it not like ya can get to screws or rivets without removing ingredients all else. Seconds n done bye bye lol I hope doing my neighbors shortly here