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@edifymusicvideos you're welcome. Yea $600 is alot. These are way cheaper and work just as good. Happy to help, let me know if you help with anything else.

@@cgcars3427 appreciate it bro. Just trying to bring my manual 328i back to life!

It comes complete, you can look them up online and pick a style(design) you want.

Try it again and make sure it goes all the way down. If not all the way in it may not be going into gear properly.

It works for auto or manual. It brings 2 plugs that go at the bottom of the radiator where the transmission cooler goes. The plugs are different lengths, the longer is for auto and the shorter is for manuals. The shorter blocks it so that no fluid comes out where the transmission cooler would go.

Yea 6 bills is alot, that's what I dislike about the SULEV N51 engines. I got the radiator and sensor separate. I bought the sensor for 90 bucks of some website that the seller bought the sensor and never used it. Below: Radiator: www.ecstuning.com/b-csf-parts/radiator/3718~csf/ Sensor: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-mercedes-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor-uro-parts-221905560080?ads_cmpid=352578559&ads_adid=22978217719&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85228362199&ads_targetid=pla-73092553824&ttv=2&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFo6vPwM-Dt0_vtO529ay64Tswpiqikcvx3D23-AcreP3_-N4DKJcxPxoC1xMQAvD_BwE

Sick man gonna copy all your links appreciate it

@@SlwE92 no problem. Let me know what else you need.

So that temperature sensor link u sent from fcp that says bmw Mercedes that’s the correct one cus I notice it just says for n26 when u try to validate the fitment on fcp euro

@SlwE92 it's the same one. That's the same one I got and it works fine. Here try this website below because it actually lists the N51 and you can enter car info to match it. www.autohausaz.com/pn/14705245-UR-262188100?BMW&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFo8UMFB5iWXCBNu2DRt3YpzJl7SDcnXq70-GXf4cyNEwzQgM_ahZfFxoCe6oQAvD_BwE

Yes it is. Sounds awesome.

Nice I have the same one also resonater delete

@SlwE92 nice. My resonator is still intact.

They both are wired the same. May be hard to tell.

I replaced the stock muffler with a Magnaflow exhaust. Also some of these have 2 resonators, I left the Y resonator and removed the other. It sounds really good but also in this video I had installed an exhaust cutoff valve that's right after the cats. It opens and closes.

Non perde potenza, funziona e suona alla grande. Lo consiglierei e non dovrò spendere soldi per marmitte costose, a meno che non usi l'auto per le corse.

Not really, haven't experienced that. Are you sure it's coming from the fan clutch and not the water pump? Water pump can make clicking noise when it's dying, or check if the fan blade is hitting something or is broken.

@@cgcars3427 so i checked it. The clutch and water pump are solid and the fan has the proper amount of resistance when turned by hand. But then i wiggled it, the fan was coming loose from the clutch itself. Is that cause to buy a whole new fan or replace it with an electric version? Or is there a way to tighten the fan back onto the clutch?

@phoeveezy6398 you can tighthen the fan on the fan clutch. Hopefully all the screws are still there.

Yea you can tighten the screws that connect fan blades to clutch. You can buy either one separately, don't need the whole set. Wouldn't replace with an electric fan because then you have to get the right wire, relay and fan strength. Not worth it, just tighten fan or get new fan or clutch if needed.

Hey genius, the starter was already bad hence why I took it out of the car. It gets stuck so I banged it and it worked for a little but too old, worn and rusted.

​@@cgcars3427yep, if you get stuck somewhere you have to hit it to get home or where you're going.

😂, sometimes these knobs don't want to come off easy that's why people sometimes think they are going to break something.

@@cgcars3427 wasn't easy. Mine never been removed before. Same with manual shift knob. But when you set right on the center consol arm rest it will come right off. It must be 100% straight up

@MMusa-gy7qb first time definitely the toughest. My auto and manual since knobs have been changed come off easier. Though the car in this video had the original knob but wasn't hard.

You talking about the burble? That's why I like the valve because when I close it the car sounds super quiet inside.

Just had an AFE cold air intake.

Latest model 😂

😂. they should be

Is the coolant full and have you changed the thermostat? Sometimes if it needs coolant or thermostat is faulty the car may get hot too quick and make the fan clutch kick in sooner or most of the time.

⁠@@cgcars3427I also have the same problem as his and I changed the coolant and thermostat but it still running hard

@@cgcars3427Also the car never reaches the middle temp and its under like 10-20C* than the normal temp running(sorry my english is not my first language)

If your temp doesn't reach half way, it may be the thermostat not letting the car get to the right temp, or if fan clutch is faulty and is stuck on high speed, it is always working more than it should.

Should be plastic

🤣🤣. Yea some of them are so hard to get off.

When you attach the positive to one side of the wire, test the other side of the wire to make sure you are getting power for sure. If you are getting power then the selonoid may be bad. How old is the car and how many miles?

What🤨? Just showing the process of testing it and that the test actually works.

no

Solonide was not doing its job on the new stater thou. Only spin but not moving foward

Could definitely cause headgasket to go if car overheats. Usually the auxiliary fan would kick in for a little but may not be enough to keep car from overheating.

No problem. Let me know if you got any questions.

They are latches and for the most part they latch by pressing gently, I do it all the time. But yea there are some that need extra force but not slammed like people do when the hood is completely open. I've seen people do that and have seen broken front grills and messed up headlights.

Hello, it's hard to tell. Could be the fan clutch but also water pump since it's right on the clutch. Try removing the fan and fan clutch and see if it still makes the sound. Also may be easier to diagnose and listen if the fan clutch is off. Those water pumps wear out and start to fail and sometimes get noisy. Also if water pump has never been changed it is a good idea to just change it.

@@cgcars3427 thank you for quick response i have a short on my page if wouldn’t mind taking time out to take a look

Yes, but I'm mostly talking about the ones that let it drop from the completely open position. I've had mechanics even let it close from a low distance and have had the grills break a few times. I've closed all my hoods by being gentle and it latches perfectly with the exception of a couple worn latches that I had to semi slam.

@@cgcars3427 yeah it feels bad to drop from any height really.

You can put electric fan, just make sure it has the right output needed to keep engine cool. I've always changed my fan clutch and blade every 20-30k miles and have not had any issues.

Yes it should. Make sure to put in neutral and then while pressing the button pull up hard.

Not exactly sure, my mechanic did it. I think it was like a 3 inch pipe.