- Видео 74
- Просмотров 65 381
earlysessions
США
Добавлен 2 июн 2022
Welcome to the Early Sessions! My name is Justin. Originally from France, I started my surfing journey in Biarritz more than 18 years ago now, later moved to San Francisco, then moved down to Los Angeles and recently settled in Orange County.
I will be taking you closer to the action with weekly surf content filmed with my GoPro (as long as you have workable swell). You will find the good and ugly of SoCal surf spots with no filter. if you can surf all year long, you know you will have bad days and occasionally some very good days. What matters is just to have some fun out there.
If you like it, please subscribe, like, share and let me know what you wanna see more of on my channel! Yeeeww!
I will be taking you closer to the action with weekly surf content filmed with my GoPro (as long as you have workable swell). You will find the good and ugly of SoCal surf spots with no filter. if you can surf all year long, you know you will have bad days and occasionally some very good days. What matters is just to have some fun out there.
If you like it, please subscribe, like, share and let me know what you wanna see more of on my channel! Yeeeww!
Riding my high performance Pyzel Shadow in small conditions at HB [ POV SURF 66 ]
Great conditions with some good size swell and strong offshore flows. With higher sets forecasted to go as high as 5ft, I wanted to step up a bit my game and decided to take the Shadow. It needed more paddle power but once you were up, it felt like a skateboard. I look forward to more punchy sessions where I can continue to improve my turns and snaps. I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe for more!
Content//
0:00 - Preview
0:38 - Location and Surfboard
0:53 - Raw Surf
6:20 - Thanks for watching
📍Location: HB North - Taco Bell Reef
🌊 Surf report 🌊:
3-5 FT+, Mid to high tide, offshore winds
🎥 Filmed on GoPro Hero 11, wide angle, 8:7aspect ratio (trimmed back to 16:9 du...
Content//
0:00 - Preview
0:38 - Location and Surfboard
0:53 - Raw Surf
6:20 - Thanks for watching
📍Location: HB North - Taco Bell Reef
🌊 Surf report 🌊:
3-5 FT+, Mid to high tide, offshore winds
🎥 Filmed on GoPro Hero 11, wide angle, 8:7aspect ratio (trimmed back to 16:9 du...
Просмотров: 410
Видео
Fair to Freakin' Good @ HB Taco Bell Reef (9th st) [ POV SURF 65 ]
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Another very good morning north of the HB pier (by the 9th street). It was one of the cleanest sessions I've had in a while with a few sets going into the 5ft height. I was riding my Pyzel Gremlin. I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe for more! Content// 0:00 - Preview 0:38 - Location and Surfboard 0:53 - Raw Surf 6:40 - Thanks for watching 📍Location: HB North - Ta...
Offshore season is on! @ HB Taco Bell Reef [ POV SURF 64 ]
Просмотров 20211 месяцев назад
Offshore is the norm nowadays. Super fun morning where I was able to take advantage of the first hour of dawn before everybody showed up. I would think that not everybody got the memo about the time change! haha. I was riding my Pyzel Phantom. I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe for more! Content// 0:00 - Preview 0:38 - Location and Surfboard 0:53 - Raw Surf 6:40 ...
Super Glassy Waves @ HB South side [ POV SURF 63 ]
Просмотров 283Год назад
Super fun morning with light offshore wind. I was bummed I could not stay longer. We're definitely kicking off the Fall season with fun conditions. Looking forward to more like this. I was riding my Pyzel Gremlin. I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe for more! Content// 0:00 - Preview 0:38 - Location and Surfboard 0:53 - Raw Surf 5:05 - Thanks for watching 📍Locatio...
Getting the most out of bad waves @ HB Southside [ POV SURF 62 ]
Просмотров 590Год назад
Onshore winds, bad timing with the tide, weak waves...I've been going whenever I could and tried to get the most out of bad waves. I was riding my Pyzel Phantom. Fingers crossed for more swell this fall! I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe for more! Content// 0:00 Preview 0:38 - Location and Surfboard 0:53 - Raw Surf Day 1 3:36 - Raw Surf Day 2 6:15 Thanks for wat...
Glassy shore-breaks at Salt Creek [ POV SURF 61 ]
Просмотров 406Год назад
Taking advantage of the latest swell energy and found shelter at the Creek during the big days. It was a good choice because little crowd, and tons of waves! At least in the beginning before the high school teens show up around 7am. I was surfing my Pyzel Gremlin. I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe for more! Content// 0:00 Preview 0:38 - Location and Surfboard 0:...
Fun dawn patrol at Taco Bell Reef (HB) [ POV SURF 60 ]
Просмотров 308Год назад
Surprise waves hiding behind the fog that morning. I think the tropical storm reshaped a bit the sandbar as we now get steep barrel waves with just 4 ft waves. That's perfect as I am working hard on doing late takeoffs and trying to hit that sweet spot for barrel rides. I did not score a clean exit this time but will keep on trying. Hopefully the fall season will give the opportunity to do so. ...
Dawn patrol with small crowd @ Upper Trestles [ POV SURF 59 ]
Просмотров 339Год назад
Scored mini waves during windy onshore conditions at dawn..Took advantage that many folks did not even try to go in the water and returned to their cars because of the poor look of conditions. More waves for me! I was surfing my Pyzel Gremlin. I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe for more! Content// 0:00 Preview 0:38 - Location and Surfboard 0:53 - Raw Surf 5:50 Th...
Kook fest during US Open of surfing @ HB [ POV SURF 58 ]
Просмотров 474Год назад
The week of the US open of surfing is probably the worst time of the year to surf by the pier. And yet, I went anyway. That's the silver lining of being in between jobs, I can just surf whenever I want. You could sense folks in the water want to show off skills they have in hope to get a sticker on their board. You add to that all the kooky tourists visiting the city for the event and riding th...
Surfing small waves at Trestles [ POV SURF 57 ]
Просмотров 1 тыс.Год назад
Uppers in the Summer...It's crowded but it's fun and warm, so please get out there. I was surfing my Pyzel Phantom. I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe for more! Content// 0:00 Preview 0:38 - Location and Surfboard 0:53 - Raw Surf 5:33 Thanks for watching 📍Location: San Clemente, Trestles 🌊 Surf report 🌊: 3-4 FT, Mid-high tide, light onshore wind 🎥 Filmed on GoPro...
Summer vibes at Taco Bell Reef [ POV SURF 56 ]
Просмотров 267Год назад
It's getting hot in SoCal. I went to Taco Bell Reef (North side of the HB pier) since the angle of the swell offered a few corners there. It felt like a typical summer day in HB. I took the Pyzel Phantom. I managed to catch a few open face waves, even tho it was rapidly dying once crossing that sand bar. Get out there! I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe for more!...
Surfing my Pyzel Phantom & Shadow @ Uppers [ POV SURF 55 ]
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.Год назад
Uppers gave us some peaky shapes with the recent swell that hit the coast. It was crowded on both days following the 4th of July long weekend to the point you could barely find parking.. Towards the end of the first session, one wave broke my leash and the Phantom ended up in the rocks.. not visible dings so far..! I went back the next day with the Shadow. I must say Trestles is F U N and is pr...
Trestles Fever [ SURF POV 53 ]
Просмотров 427Год назад
Alright Surfline. Thanks for sharing Ok-ish forecasts. As HB is currently running the NSSA competition, you can't really go on the south side of the pier. I opted for some sessions at Uppers instead. Wednesday had an annoying onshore wind that made the water a bit messy, but still offered quite a few corners. Going back the next day, offshore wind and almost "no one" out. Super fun rides. Side ...
Every wave counts @ Huntington Beach [ POV SURF 53 ]
Просмотров 466Год назад
The surf has been quite unpredictable these past few days (thank you Surfline for trying), but this Thursday offered a few fun corners despite the onshore wind and weird very low tide. I scored a few turns with open face waves. Every wave counts! Definitely got my level of stoke-ness for the week. I took my Pyzel Phantom 6'1". I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe f...
Trestles Sunday surfing extravaganza [ SURF POV 52 ]
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.Год назад
Probably my best session to date at Trestles. I had very little hope of getting anything by going on a Sunday morning, but I surprisingly scored quite a few very good sets. The spot works quite well on low tide as long as you have a little bit of size. I took my Pyzel Phantom 6'1". Is that my best session of 2023? maybe... I hope you enjoy this POV Surf (early) session. Like and subscribe for m...
Swell struggles..surviving bad days @ HB Pier [ POV SURF 51 ]
Просмотров 434Год назад
Swell struggles..surviving bad days @ HB Pier [ POV SURF 51 ]
Fun at SoCal Best Surfing Playground...Trestles [ SURF POV 50 ]
Просмотров 640Год назад
Fun at SoCal Best Surfing Playground...Trestles [ SURF POV 50 ]
Mini waves mayhem at HB Pier [ SURF POV 49 ]
Просмотров 467Год назад
Mini waves mayhem at HB Pier [ SURF POV 49 ]
Back to back at Salt Creek [POV SURF 46]
Просмотров 791Год назад
Back to back at Salt Creek [POV SURF 46]
A few Spring sessions - Salt Creek, Huntington Beach, Upper Trestles [ SURF POV 45 ]
Просмотров 445Год назад
A few Spring sessions - Salt Creek, Huntington Beach, Upper Trestles [ SURF POV 45 ]
Finally some waves!! @ Blackies, Newport Beach [ POV SURF 44 ]
Просмотров 660Год назад
Finally some waves!! @ Blackies, Newport Beach [ POV SURF 44 ]
President's day surfing at HB and Trestles [ POV SURF 43 ]
Просмотров 595Год назад
President's day surfing at HB and Trestles [ POV SURF 43 ]
Firing Sunday Surf At Trestles (San Clemente) [ POV SURF 42 ]
Просмотров 514Год назад
Firing Sunday Surf At Trestles (San Clemente) [ POV SURF 42 ]
Morning nugs with my retro 5'10" fish @Huntington Beach Pier [ POV SURF 41 ]
Просмотров 492Год назад
Morning nugs with my retro 5'10" fish @Huntington Beach Pier [ POV SURF 41 ]
Surfing bomb cyclone leftovers @ Blackies and T-Street [ POV SURF 40 ]
Просмотров 604Год назад
Surfing bomb cyclone leftovers @ Blackies and T-Street [ POV SURF 40 ]
Getting stoked on storm waves @ Blackies, Newport Beach [ POV SURF 39 ]
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.Год назад
Getting stoked on storm waves @ Blackies, Newport Beach [ POV SURF 39 ]
Super Glassy Waves with an offshore breeze @ North side of the Pier HB [ POV SURF 38 ]
Просмотров 458Год назад
Super Glassy Waves with an offshore breeze @ North side of the Pier HB [ POV SURF 38 ]
Fresh Swell + Offshore winds light up surf city !!! @ HB North of the pier [ POV SURF 38 ]
Просмотров 769Год назад
Fresh Swell Offshore winds light up surf city !!! @ HB North of the pier [ POV SURF 38 ]
Shores is the only place I’ve suffered a concussion from hitting the water so hard. It didn’t happen in 2x overhead Margaret’s River, didn’t happen at Rocky Point, didn’t happen anywhere in Costa Rica or Nica. Nope, that happened at home on a relatively small wave at Shores.
So sick!!! 🎉
Hey man what fins you got on that thing in this session?
just a set of large FCS Super Fins - not a pro model of any kind from what I recall. Very good product!
bro drove by my house 💀 creek my favorite break on a big day
where ya at?
I've been taking a break from filming my sessions. Will try to get back to it in the fall probably. Stay tuned!
Yooooo what happened? Its been 6 months since your last upload, I can only hope that summer will mean more uploads, because I absolutely love your content, its so peaceful and satisfying, plus its very helpful
Thanks for the support. I've been taking a break from RUclips video. Filming your surf at all times is clearly a form of distraction and affected my progress. With that said, I'm hoping to get back to some new video content in the coming months. Stay tuned!
@@earlysessions I can't wait to see you back out there
U ever surf at salt creek?
Hey big fan
Thanks a lot!
I've been waiting for more videos😂 this sesh was sick . A sunny Cali day . How lucky are we sometimes
Sure thing bro! I've been taking a small break from making surfing videos. And mainly I have been waiting for the right conditions too. Hopefully the bad winds and rain will soon switch to a more ideal combo with sun and offshore conditions. Stay tuned!
Great vid. I like the parking lot part of the vid as well. I'm headed to San Clemente (first time) and its cool to see the whole beach set up. Thanks!
Hi! very good video! Between Phanton and the Shadow what you prefer? What is your weight? I am undecided between the two. thank you
hey Tiago, Thanks for your comment here. I would say the Phantom is the the winner as it performs very well in most conditions. I take the Shadow out (usually) to deal with steeper take offs that require a bit more rocker. I weight about 180 lbs. Let me know if you need more details!
@@earlysessions Thanks for the reply! I already realized from your videos that the Phantom is a daily driver. I'm undecided between Phantom and Pyzelien 2. I'm leaning more towards Pyzelien. Weight 185 lbs will have to be 34-35 L. What you think?
@@tiagocarvalho983 The Phantom is probably the one to add to your quiver if you're looking for performance. I have not had the chance to test the Pyzelien yet, but based on online reviews, it look like it's more user friendly. Depending on where you surf, the Phantom might make sense if you have a little more wave energy at your local break. Otherwise, no doubt go for the Pyzelien which looks very fun
Thank you! May be the Phantom make more sense where i surf
Sweet keep us posted!@@tiagocarvalho983
Hi, do you think that condition like these are good for the Phantom too? I am stuck between the two boards... Is the Phantom agile as the Shadow? thank you
hey dude. Both boards are very good high-performance models, and should work in similar conditions. For steeper and shoulder high+ waves, the Shadow wins. The Shadow will have more rocker than than the Phantom, and a narrower tail. You might need a bit more push from the wave with the Shadow as it has less volume. However, if you are looking for a daily driver in average normal conditions in SoCal, I would recommend the Phantom. I use it way more often than the Shadow.
Another great video man. Always killing it out there!
Thanks man!
Hey brother, I've recently discovered your channel and I"m a local OC media creator. You have ~350 subscribers. I know the labor it takes to create a video like yours; i'm very proficient in Adobe Premiere, Photoshop, etc. What is your goal with the channel? Maybe I can help. I'm always interested in collaborating and helping local OC athletes. Let me know.
hey dude. I appreciate the support. I do not have any particular goal as the moment, beside reaching a descent number of subscribers and expanding on the content. Given the channel is not yet monetized, I won't have dollars to spare for outside help. And to be transparent, I am doing this mostly for fun and enjoy the community aspect of it. Let's definitely stay in touch in case that changes.
seems like the same guy chandeliered two of your waves? Both times you didn't make the section. It's HB....I KNOW people do it intentionally sometimes.
Yeah I was debating if this dude cancelled my wave on purpose. Not the best thing to do.. I feel it's just as bad when folks chandelier your wave but they are not even aware they did it
@@earlysessions agree. I think "most" casual surfers don't even know it's a thing.
Great video! I'm trying to buy a new board and I'm hesitating between the phantom and gremlin. Why didn't you take out the phantom, isn't the gremlin a small wave board?
Really depends on what you like to ride. The Gremlin works well up to 6ft, has tons of volume and paddles very easy. I simply took the Gremlin that day thinking it would slightly smaller. but it happened to be a good pick as I could take off early which is definitely an advantage for those crowded days. The Phantom is my daily driver but works much better with shoulder high waves. Both are high performance boards. If you have a strong paddle power and can take steeper sections, go for the Phantom. If you are planning on going on 3-4 ft days, the Gremlin is great board. let me know!
@@earlysessions Thanks for the advice! I am looking for a board to size down from a midlength as my birthday and Christmas are coming up but I would only get one and it would have to last for a while so I am kinda looking for a board that I can use now and that will still be usable as I progress more which is why both are appealing to me. Anyways thanks for the help and you earned a new sub!
@@aaron.monson_surf Of course. Anytime!
@@aaron.monson_surf Im 6’1”, 165lbs. I have a Gremlin in my arsenal, it’s 5’6” and perfect for small waves. But if you’re trying to go shorter, the gremlin can be a bit tough if you’re used to mid lengths. It doesn’t have much rocker, which makes it fast, but also makes it easier to nose dive when taking off if you’re not used to short boards.
Pauses are now gone! I enjoy your watching your content. At 4:26 did you end your ride to avoid crashing into that guy? Lol
Thanks a lot. yeah for that wave a 4:26, I did that dude a favor by avoiding a bad collision. You just need to be nice to people sometimes.
Is this place okay for beginners since it's far from the pier?
It's definitely better in contrast to surfing by the Pier or the bowl on the North side. You will find a mix of different skill level but it is in general low key. On very good days, the crowd level might increase but overall it's a safe place for beginners. Hope to see you out there!
I'm assuming this is called Taco Bell Reef because you park at the Taco Bell? @@justinshelby
There used to be a Taco Bell right on the 9th street but it's not there anymore. @@dennishuynh5554
Ya dude 🤙🏽
Yeww!
Glad to see you wearing booties uppers is so rough on the feet when you come back in lol, took like 10 min to traverse low tide. sick session, was thinking of getting the phantom and this POV deffo helps 🤙
ripping it out there
How do you build confidence when you’re in the water and not get anxiety? Do you breathe train?
Building confidence in surfing is probably about knowing your boundaries first. Don’t go out if you feel you are putting yourself at risk. Try to enter the water with a goal in mind which can benefit your personal growth and increase gradually your level of comfort in the water. If you are used to 3-4ft, don’t go when it’s 6ft+. The day it’s 4-5 ft, get out there and get a feel for it and see if you are ready to slowly step up your game. For the occasional wipeout and hold downs in SoCal, you may hold your breath honestly no more than 10-15 seconds. At a high heart rate, you tend to use more oxygen so it’s important to remain still and relax (while protecting your head from your board or hitting your head against the bottom). Avoid fighting and once the motion pass, slowly get above the water. Usually I would seek for my leash to climb back up. It’s more of a mind game, so with repetition and practice I’m sure you can improve and decrease your anxiety level. What helped me tons with surfing would be doing laps in a pool and alternating between breathing every 3rd stroke and 5th stroke. Other than that, when you are going under water during a wipeout and possible hold down, just relax. I hope this helps.
@@earlysessions thanks that was very helpful! Slowly I have been building the confidence but that’s what was holding me back a lot from getting better. I think I’m gonna start setting goals each session I go out instead of just going out with no purpose. The main goal is to get as good as you one day!
Im from Redondo,i love your uploads dude!
Thanks bro! I appreciate it.
I absolutely love creek
Nice!
Thanks for taking me out this morning 😂
what's the local vibe like at Salt Creek?
there are 3 main takeoffs zones which gives you some options to surf. Locals combine a mix of ex-pro surfers, old dudes on longboards, high schoolers wannabe pro, some spongers...They all seem to know each other so I would not mess with anybody there. Word in the water can spread fast...Otherwise it's alright. just be respectful, don't burn anyone and you will be fine. Last thing to be aware of is the sea life such as seals.
should’ve gone for an lil air😢
I've been trying to learn how to land air these past few sessions. Maybe Ill have to video to claim it soon
always enjoy the vids! keep it up!
thanks!
Salt Creek is fun. I don’t remember a 6ft swell at all this summer tho? Looks more like 3-4ft
Hey @surfingwithzack! Thanks for the comment. It was back in early May when we had a sizable swell in SoCal. I remembered vividly that clean up sets were definitely up to 6ft+ those days. Hard to tell with the distorted GoPro footage but the few corners I captured on camera were probably averaging 4-5ft. Salt creek was saturating quite a bit but was indeed fun. Hope to see you out there one day. Cheers!
Seems like you need more volume in your board.
Those waves are hard sometimes haha I would've just gone straight or not gone for the wave especially if he was a local. Is what it is. Btw I'm coming to SoCal next week, was planning to surf in board shorts but u think it's worth rent a wetsuit over there rn?
Yup it’s always better to play it safe! You can definitely wear board-shorts and skip the wetsuit.
Love your videos. Im from Portugal, want to start surfing before work but its a 30 min drive to the beach and im not experienced to surf alone, any tips ? can you share your experience ?
I love that I have viewers in Portugal! Man, that's awesome that you want to start your day with surfing. It is so beneficial for your body and mental state. I would assume if you're looking to surf early that conditions in your local spot are good at that time of the day, right? The way I organize my schedule is timed based on the first light (including negotiation with my wife for dropping our kid at daycare :D). I need about 30 min to get to any surfing spot from where I am. I usually hit the road 30 min before the first light and go straight to the surf. The car would be pre-loaded the night before, with ready-to-go fresh water and a smoothie for energy (super important if you want to avoid falling asleep at work). The line-up is rarely empty in SoCal, so being alone is not really a worry here. If conditions are pumping, I would try to stay in sight of other surfers in the case of an injury. I always wear a watch to keep track of time, and allow myself sufficient time to change and head back. I would usually shower and change before heading back. Grab a coffee and go to work. I try to do some stretching at the end of the day, and go to bed early to get enough hours of sleep. Next day repeat. I've been doing that for so many years now, that it's just become a habit. I hope you can make it happen!
@@earlysessions so nice of you responding with such detail. Thanks a lot, I will try it for sure. Keep doing your stuff, I will be watching!
I got sliced (more like stabbed) by my fin on July 15th and got myself a dozen stitches. I'm still recovering and I wish I hadn't watched this video. I miss surfing so much.
Sorry to hear that man! Was that a like a longboard fin? The silver lining is that you will be fully recovered and ready to surf for September. Less crowd, better conditions, more waves! Feel better brother
@@earlysessions not even, thruster
@@dennisthemenace0WNSouch. That happens to the best of us. Hope you will recover fast
Open question to the group: On the wave at 4:30 I had a situation where I operated fast but was not happy with my decision. What happened is that I was waiting for a set wave not far from the pier. When that A-shape wave came my way, there was that old dude announcing a little early he was going right, giving me the opportunity to go left. The issue is that I was positioning slightly off to correctly gain speed on that left and would have preferred to go right. This dude was a HB local so I decided not to interfere and claim priority on the right. On a bigger day, I would have probably gone right.. I don't know what to think as he called it as the set was coming our way, which seemed kind of courteous but at the same time he had no right to claim it. This resulted in me shouting at this guy who dropped in on the left, who probably thought I was too far out. So, choices are: Respect the local? Be agro? Ask the city to mandate the surf etiquette? thoughts?
There is usually no rule for waves with riders traveling towards each other, you either thread the needle, kick out, or eat glass.
Exactly. I would usually kick out to avoid getting hurt or getting a ding... but I made a quick judgment call and decided to keep course those two times. The other dudes seem to know what they were doing.
See you out there some day!
Not surfing today so I'll catch a sesh with you lol
haha. That's the spirit!
I always thought this was pirate ship playground reef :)
haha it would actually make more sense to rename that spot like that. The Taco Bell has been long gone!
Really appreciate your content. POV helps me visualize timing the popup better. Any tips?
Thanks dude! For takeoffs, I would say it's all about positioning and timing. Stay crouched to keep a better balance and also maintain some speed. Put some weight towards for the front, not the back. Try to do your take off as close as possible to the peak. If it gets a bit too vertical, angle your board towards the direction you're going to ride the wave. I hope that helps.
How do the shadow and the phantom compare for you? I’m looking at both for bigger days in LA like 4-6+. Like a SoCal step up but not really bc it’s not really so big
I use the Phantom much more often, which works well in both small and bigger days (3-6ft). You pretty much can catch everything with it. The Shadow has much more rocker, which makes it great for steeper waves and late takeoffs. While it's fairly similar to the Phantom, I got the Shadow to elevate my performance level a little bit, specifically when I know the beach breaks will be fast and barreling. Now, just based on the frequency of very good swells hitting SoCal with rideable 6ft+ conditions, I would probably opt for the Phantom just because you will be able to use it more and get a better return on your investment. I hope that helps :)
@@earlysessions thanks that’s helpful. More control is good but late takeoffs seem scary on big days too I would kinda rather get in early more than late maybe! And you’re right that it’s not too many days. I ride a lost Puddle Jumper Pro most of the time so a shadow would still be a step above that. Thanks :)
Yeww
Beatiful surfing
Thanks a lot
I was surfing the same spot the same morning and was blown away at the lack of awareness and basic etiquette. Waves were fun though haha.
Waves were definitely so much fun! And yeah lots of folks are not always respectful and have no etiquette. Arguably there are so many failed take offs tho that I get that sometimes more advanced surfers will still attempt to drop in to avoid wasting a good wave.. but it can be frustrating at times when they do this on you as you secured the wave from the inside and have priority. That’s the world we live in! I don’t think trestles will improve either lol
So many snakes 🐍
haha. Malibu Surfrider wins the ultimate Oscar for that.
1-2' Hawaiian 🤙🏻😂🌊🤷🏻♂️🥩
haha dude..the Hawaiian scale is so confusing.. 2ft means everything up to 8ft in Californian terms. I surfed an outer reef south of Kauai once. I asked the board rental the forecast and he said 2 ft... I went and it but it was head high.
Hard to have a bad session when your at the perfect wave.
Trestles is definitely one of the best surfing playgrounds I’ve been at.
nice what setting do you have on your go pro during the surf?