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She sounds good. Did she feel good??

I'm def digging the air cleaner. I love bug catchers

Nailed it!!

The logo on the tank is a great idea, nice touch.

I need the bicycle pad!! Lol

Sounds strong. And you did seem more relaxed in this video. Good job on the music and volume control!! I also have a shirt for you!

Oh that dirty bird skull is cool! Cool idea with the leather!!

It did sound good!

Shoot yeah! It did just bust right off!! Nice!!

Thank you Gordon .

It is coming together!

On the speaker cover. A decal design on it would be cool.

I think the tanks have rubber mounts that go in between the bottom of the bracket to the top of the frame

The grips are cool!

Good idea on the brake rotor cleanup!

The clip ons have very little grip once raised dangerous to my mind

Good job ....love the videos

Send me a picture or the gas tank hole with a tape measure across it.

I dig your intro!

I found you!!

I used a masking decal from an online vendor for my tank and it transferred a ton of adhesive. Use good stuff and it's no problem. Luckily I had couple layers of clear on before I laid down the graphics. It saved me a couple times when I had issues. I ended up having to take gorilla duct tape and dab it over and over in order to lift the adhesive. It took forever but it was that or respray the whole thing. Good luck man. LittleO

Right 👍 on.. looks good

Right 👍 on.. looks good

Right 👍 on.. looks good

Right 👍 on.. looks good

Right 👍 on.. looks good

Right 👍 on.. looks good

Love watching your videos.❤

Just ran into our truck puking the packing Friday.

Gordon, did you rattle can this entire bus?

it looks really good great job

That looks great! I am ready for some Bar-B-Q😀

Hey gordon, I got a quick question I have a 1980 c3 vette and plan on putting a bug catcher on it. I watched one of you videos from like 5 years ago where you made a n adapter that allowed the bug catcher scoop to sit closer to the center rather then offset. Could you please make me one I am willing to pay. If we could get in contact I would really appreciate it . Thanks!

Perfect, nice job !

Can you please send a message saying what the air regulator cable was called and I've only got 1 air clock on mine thanks MAGA 😊

Only just seen your video when you was having trouble with clutch not lining up why didn't you enlarge the holes make slots on the bracket frame 😮good idea though i should done that with mower just got rid of it was good engine body knackered

I modify all my cherry pickers. They're just box tubing after all. I weld fixed stub axles then install solid front wheels (from farm equipment so far but next one will get round tubes so I can slide in round shank scaffolding casters which pivot, lock and have wheel brakes, about $150 a set new which is cheap for how awesome they are especially compared to more awkward industrial bolt-on casters). I weld old rear spindles from scrapped front wheel drive cars after gutting them but trailer spindles would be fine (I get the car parts cheap from salvage of course) so the rear gets car tires. This lets me easily R&R big block gassers with transmission attached in an sand or dirt yard. Because the car wheel setup width is so stable I can easily pull a loaded picker forward away from the vehicle being worked on with my truck. I also use and love the cheap small 12V Harbor Freight electric winches and use one as a "tugger" bolted to a hunk of channel with a leaf spring U-bolt welded to it for anchoring cables and chains. My bad back means I do everything by rigging which is surprisingly efficient from drivetrain pulls to moving machine tools and steel. I power mine from my battery jump pack or via jumper cables. I have much heavier Ramsey worm drive industrial winches but the little portable is ideal for pulling small car engines, tugging and more. I collect discarded cherry pickers with bad hydraulic cylinders, extend the piston rod, slide a piece of pipe over that then reinstall the boom pin so the boom is always at full height. I weld two plates to the end of the boom and run a bolt through an iron or steel pulley. That lets me use my industrial comealongs hooked to the low end of the boom to reach deep into any engine bays. F-16 gun cranes used to R&R their 20mm cannon are similarly simple and where I got the idea. I don't make any of it pretty, just overkill strong since I leave these outdoors for decades. I put car wheel spindles on my "outdoor" engine stand bases too and extend the tongues so I can tow them (slowly!) on gravel. I despise small casters even on concrete so those get harvested or discarded. Feel free to experiment with steel! You can always cut off what you don't like then weld something different. I use Harbor Freight engine stands for all sorts of tasks by modding the heads and every motorcycle engine I pull gets one. Second getting a used patient lift! I have two and want a bariatric. They have non-marring casters and adjustable width so they can fit through a standard doorway. They're nice for placing transmissions and small engines on teardown tables (make one, you won't be sorry). I also collect steel industrial carts from business auctions and I don't mean sheet metal but the custom kind welded from heavier stock by local shops which makes them strong, versatile and easy to modify. They go dirt cheap. Ditto steel "U-boat dollie/carts" used in grocery stores to move frozen foods. I pull the axle bolts from the midships wheels so I can push them in any direction and add shelves to most of mine. If you put time and thought into "material handling" like industry does you can do it cheap and have a much more effective shop as a hobbiest or pro. I'm retired with a bad back but move all sorts of heavy things manually (including forty foot High Cube shipping containers by manual winching on pipe rollers when the delivery Landoll wouldn't clear my power lines). So can you!

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Too many square/right angle joints… You NEED some triangle gussets, or triangle braces

Looks like a great plan. tHanks for the video

A friend did a similar thing with a bariatric patient lift which is basically just a medical version of an engine hoist. He got the legs out so any engine stand no matter how wide will fit and they still fit between the tires of all but little bitty cars.

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I bought the smaller cherry picker from Harbor Freight. The only difference is the lifting arm was a bit shorter. The framing was the same. I did a modification to the lifting arm where the chain hook reaches the wheels on the end there. I made a video on my channel you can check out. You can lift the whole 1000 lbs all the way out on the end where the wheels are. It's strong enough to lift a tank. LOL. When you make supports for the front of the engine, make the supports to screw into the oil pan rail bolt holes. 2 on each side. That is how the dedicated engine run stands do it. You then can bolt up any engine to it without making dedicated supports. Using the oil pan rails is a more universal setup.

Convex mirrors were mounted there

I am thinking about 25 cans. Good luck with this

Damn, that's a tough one, but going with 52!

I've modified mine heavily. The front legs did not fold up originally, they do now. I added a fold down tray on the back for ballast (I use buckets filled with concrete) for those times when you need the boom out further than the load. I also welded on a handle to the back to make maneuvering it easier.

Love this mod, I assume the cherry picker will still slide under the vehicle for installation. I want to mod mine to be taller with a I beam extension. Then put a hoist trolly setup to be able to install engine in vehicle without having to move cherry picker on those last few inches. Just move the trolly back and forth while also being able to hoist at engine rather than having to go pump the cherry picker. Sounds good in my head but not sure, would be cool if it worked.

With the front legs level with the rear, why not cut the front legs on an angel so you could weld the new metal to the rear legs and then weld them to the cut-off part of the front as reinforcement and have the legs go straight forward from the rear. The hoist would end up with a wider and heavier weight lemit? 😊

The only thing I think I'd do differently is to add a full length piece of square tube inside the adjustable beam on top and just re-drill the adjustment holes once that is welded in place. That should at least eliminate the chance of the beam bending at the end of the main lifting beam the ram attaches to. That way you can extend it as far as you want as long as it doesn't start picking up the rear of the crane itself. I think the extensions on the fold up legs you added was a excellent idea as well and something I intend to do on my Pittsburgh 2 ton crane too sense I do allot of big block work and have to reach way out over my trailer sides to pick up stuff quite often . That should really help when I need to lift things off a trailer when the arm needs to be at pretty much full extension so you can reach the center of the trailer better . Ya , both will add more weight but then again I've never been accused of under building anything before and a point my friends often tease me about !