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Thanks! I'm not aware of any way to calculate the angle that a mover might be moving. My initial thought would be to range both end points and see if it were moving away or toward you in order to get an approximate estimate as to whether you would need to hold more or less elevation. Most movers I have seen on PRS stages are moving predominantly horizontally and not forward/backward. I've missed plenty off the side, but rarely missed them high or low.

@@Engage1 many thanks

You're welcome! Thanks for checking out the video and glad it helped.

Hey Ty, I think opinions vary out there, but most things I've found suggest you will be fine. I have done easily 10,000 trigger pulls of practice and haven't had any issues with my firing pin or trigger. Your mileage may vary...

Okay, thanks, brother ​@Engage1

Thanks Dave for watching and for the comment! I typically dial wind on these stages.. then if you dial wind in I've found that it works out that the lead should be the same either direction.

@@Engage1 thank you for the video and response. I’ll have to try that next time to see if I like it better 👍

Alas, I need to put in a lot more work, but this makes it easier. Thanks for the sub and for liking the video!

Thanks! Glad it was helpful.

Totally agree - it makes the elite model totally worth it.

Glad to hear! I've liked the upgrade to the elite for sure.

Thanks for watching!

Good luck

Thanks for checking out the video. It's definitely odd how different barrels and different calibers behave. I've got about 2100 rounds on my 6GT barrel and it doesn't look much worse than my 6 Creed at 700. On another note, If you're shooting your 7 mag for a thousand plus rounds - good on you my friend! That's definitely a stout one to be shooting a ton!

@@Engage1 I’ve had that barrel ever since the Encore came out. Has a non-removable factory Muzzle Tamer brake on it. Probably around 1985. Thank you for your video. I always like seeing what others are doing and encountering.

Thanks Steve - That sounds like a good plan, especially for humid environments. I have shifted toward cleaning more frequently over the last year. I've also been trying Thorroclean (which is predominantly abrasive instead of reactive chemicals) and it certainly speeds up cleaning for sure. I still don't have enough data to see if it wears out the barrel quicker and I'm renewing my data on accuracy as well - but previously didn't see a statistically significant increase in accuracy by cleaning regularly.

Same here in the austrian alps. My problem is condense watter build up in the bore, due to temperature differences. I always keep my bore slightly oiled, of course i have zeroed my guns for this bore condition. I only hunt, so the 1st shot is all i care about.

Hey Philip - this video is all a joke.

Sure thing and thanks for watching and commenting. I use a Autotrickler v3. It's been great for me for several years now. You can check them out on autotrickler.com

Thanks Jeff! I'm so glad it's been helpful. I keep wanting to put out a few more videos but life gets in the way (and going to matches).

Thanks! Yep, that video is a great one and I like his channel for sure. I've tried all three after I made this video and I like the JB Bore Paste - that's a game changer. CLR I'm not a fan of. I've found Free All to be great, in my recent tests I've preferred Hoppes 9 and JB Bore Paste along with Sweets. It's an always evolving process for sure. Happy shooting!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks and glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks Steve. I purchased the Lyman hand tools - the orange and grey handles - quite some time ago. The chamfer one was the VLD one and the debur tool was their standard one (as far as I can recall). They swapped out easy and have been really great!

@@Engage1 Ok Thank you!!! Are you not making videos anymore?

@@stevefisher2121 Man, it sure seems that way based on when my last one was posted... I definitely took a break for a while didn't I! I have another one in the works on checklists for PRS Matches, Stages, and shots that have helped me make fewer mental errors and a couple others I've been thinking of. Stay tuned.

Blake. Sure thing... The borescope is a Teslong Rifle Borescope model V201909-11. It attaches to my phone via micro USB which powers it and the video records to the phone. It's been super handy and wasn't very expensive. I think I found it for $45 or so on Amazon. Here's a link to the one I bought on Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TTQF24F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I use a number of bronze brushes - I just purchased another batch of them from Amazon. Here are the ones I use most frequently though I am not too picky on which brushes I use. www.amazon.com/dp/B08NNQMR3L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I also have a couple cleaning rods. Here's the one I recently purchased: www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/cleaning-rods-amp-accessories/cleaning-rods/27-45-caliber-12-8-32f-cleaning-rod-sku100030455-57075-224697.aspx Aside from that it's typical patches, jags, and the solvents I mentioned in the video. Best of luck and hope it works well for you! Since making the video, I've started cleaning more frequently. I've also tried CLR and recently Free-All (blue bottle) to help remove carbon and it seems to work really well.

Glad it helps!

Thanks! Erik has some awesome videos and is someone I definitely look up to. I've started cleaning more frequently as well. At my level of shooting, I haven't noticed too much of an improvement, but I do like having a clean rifle.

Smart ! Exactly what I'm doing. Don't let it get bad and don't let it sit dirty . I never need a brush just 6r8 patches w sum crc brake cleaner. Then a nice oil patch B4 she goes back to bed.

Dennis - Thanks and that's great! Do they do rimfire matches in Germany too? They are all the rage right now in the US. Much smaller ranges required and they are pretty fun.

Thanks - I've started cleaning more frequently since I made this video too. I don't think I've noticed a ton of difference at my level, but I'll clean about every could hundred rounds.

Thanks!

Julius - Yep, that's one of it's main uses in my home.

Thanks for the comment! I have been playing around with cleaning my barrel more frequently and I don't mind it - but haven't noticed my scores going up as a result. If you've never cleaned one well, definitely jump in - tons of great videos out there and it isn't that tough.

Hey Jeff. More recently I do run an expander with a mandrel to get everything just right. I like the Lemme Shine and ultrasonic approach. I use my harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner for my 5.7 brass and all things AR related and it works great. I recently broke down and bought a Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler and it is awesome (the container they provide is really the reason I bought it - and it's solid. I probably should have done it sooner. The treadmill worked so well though for years for me.

I think the treadmill is in excellent example of, "work with what you've got"! Magnificent idea! Take care and I'll be watching your videos, more to come

Glad you liked it!

Hey John - Straightjacket is awesome and I have some buddies who love them. My action is an Impact Precision 737R and I currently get my prefit barrels from Wade at Stuteville Precision. They have been fantastic and I've never had an issue with fit or performance. I bought one of them cerekoted and it was beautiful - but I now go with the straight up stainless ones to save a little bit of cash.

@@Engage1 Thank you and good luck with your GT.

Thanks, bloke3006 for the comment. Yep, a good amount of barrel life driving the decision and a bit of ease of finding a load that works well. I didn't have much of a problem with 6 Creed for that but had heard that it was easier for 6GT and honestly, it felt like it was while I was working up the load for my 6GT. Just about every load shot well. I also went lower velocity with my GT than I was at with my Creedmoor (2850 vs 3100) - and found that it was much easier to see impacts as a result. I was a bit worried about case fill if I loaded my Creedmoor to lower velocities, but that may be an unfounded concern.

Thanks! Yep, it takes a little practice to get the focus right (as you saw in the video) but once you do, you can see copper and carbon and everything you want to get out of the barrel. Good luck!

Ryan, Thanks for the comment! Yep, after I resize and trim, I wash out the cases in hot soapy water and dry them. Then I prime. That's one reason I like the water based lubrication - it rinses off really easily.

Thanks for the sub and I've got a few more in the works!

Nice. Thanks for the comment. I've been experimenting with cleaning more frequently recently. I've started using my magnetospeed to test when the barrel gets back up to a consistent velocity and have found it to be just a few shots. Hope your 300 PRC cleaned up well and is doing better on the extractions!

Nice James. It's a great investment for sure.

Awesome! Thank you!

JOGO - Thank you!

Depending on your purposes for the rifle and how accurate your first barrel is, it should last probably a thousand to two or three thousand rounds before it starts to suffer significantly (depending on powder/etc.). I do feel like the Krieger barrel likely will give you an increase in accuracy compared to the original barrel. Since you already have the new barrel, I would have a gunsmith spin it on or do so yourself if you feel qualified (definitely don't do it if you don't know how to properly headspace the chamber/etc.). Then, you can keep your original barrel as a backup (that you likely will never need to use). It's definitely an upgrade compared to the factory one and I'd be surprised if it didn't shoot better than the factory one. Best of luck to you!

@@Engage1 Thank you very much for your suggestion.

You're welcome! Thanks for watching.

Hi John - the classic response is "it depends." On one of my 6 creedmoor barrels, I got about 1500 rounds before I retired it. It was about 1 MOA at that time which is still awesome for most things, but I was looking to move to a new caliber for PRS (6GT) and 1 MOA is not optimal for PRS events. I shot that barrel quite hot (3150 fps) which I think is why it didn't shoot as well after 1500 rounds. I probably could have rechambered it or adjusted my load again and gotten more life out of it though. I've still got it around - maybe I'll give it a try! I've had .223 barrels that have easily over 6,000 rounds through them. They are not super accurate and never were intended to be, but still work for plinking and having fun. Barrel life is a factor of a lot of different things like barrel construction, how "hot" the rounds are that you shoot, how hot the barrel gets, purpose of the rifle, etc. If it still shoots well enough for your purposes, and is structurally sound, then it's likely still good to use.

@@Engage1 Thanks for the enlightening me sir..

Thanks 1shot barbeque! To me, I want my brass to be clean and dry when I put them in the chamber to ensure it doesn't gum up the chamber. I've heard of some who use friction reducers on their brass (but not sure if lanolin qualifies here as a good one) but personally like keeping them and the chamber clean. Especially because of all of the dirt and dust when shooting a match, I want to make sure that I don't have anything in the chamber that dirt and dust can stick to. If you are wiping them down, then it sounds like you're likely getting most of it off though. On the inside of the necks, with wet steel pin tumbling they get pretty clean and I typically don't do anything to them before seating bullets. On new, never fired brass I have used some Imperial Dry Neck Lube (basically graphite) on the inside of the neck when I run a sizing mandrel through it (I don't resize brand new brass so the mandrel helps get the right neck tension). I didn't clean the dry lube off after sizing with the mandrel and so it's likely some was there when I seated the bullets. If I'm not using a mandrel, I have not historically used anything on the inside of the neck. My most recent batch of 300 rounds, it was it's second firing and I used a mandrel and dry lube on it in addition to sizing it with the right neck bushing to see if it helped with SDs. It didn't seem to hurt, but was not statistically different from not using a mandrel (at least with the quantity I measured). Long way of saying it, but with wet tumbling I don't find a need to clean out the necks of the brass and only have used dry lube when I use a mandrel to size the necks. Thanks again for watching!

Just doing my part ;)

Thanks for the reply. It's odd how much of a split there is out there on perspectives. Admittedly, I've cleaned my barrels more frequently since this video and don't see any difference. I also have been collecting some data on how long it really takes to get back up to consistent velocities (possible video coming? - my data are not statistically where I'd like to be before sharing) - it's variable, but rarely more than 10 rounds.

Hi Keyu, Thanks for watching and for the comment. You are correct that full- length sizing dies resize the body for sure. Some full length dies don't allow you to adjust the sizing of the neck independently as they are typically one piece. If you buy a full length bushing die, like the Redding Type S dies - then you can choose the bushing that sizes the neck to meet the neck tension that you are targeting for the cartridge. If you leave out the bushing, then it won't resize the neck. Best of luck in your reloading! Here's a link to Redding's page that describes the bushing dies: www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/118-type-s-bushing-dies

Me too!

If you figure it out, let me know! I have a lot of bins and gallon zip lock bags that help. Plinking ammo is different and I don't do as well keeping track of firings there, but for my precision rifle stuff I typically buy in pretty big batches for each rifle (like 300 cases). Then to me it's a bit easier to keep two bins or bags for each one. I'll load them all up and mark them with a color (Blue for first firing), and after firing put the brass from that firing into one bin. Then sometimes I'll start loading the next firing on the brass (so I have enough rounds for a 200 round match or something) and color code those differently (Red for second firing). That way when I get home I can sort them into the right bin. Then when I'm loading again for that rifle, I start with the blue brass in this example and keep within 1 firing in general for all the brass for that rifle. Annealing between each firing really helps as well with consistency in neck tension and lower SDs. If you have some that has been annealed and some that hasn't, I've found that can affect SDs and you also get the risk of splitting the necks a bit more. I think annealing every time also helps with consistency when I've sometimes been stuck with 7 or 10 rounds from the previous firing and I don't want to keep them separate so I'll just lump them in with the next firing of the brass for processing. As long as I'm within one firing or so I feel okay about doing that.

Good call. I bring mine along in the truck as well - totally agree that it's good to check velocity before the match.

Definitely not the prettiest, but it gets the job done. Thanks!

Thanks Ernie!

Thanks for the comment. Sounds like an excellent setup and process! I've gone back and forth on using a mandrel after I resize. More recently I have been using a mandrel after resizing every time. I used to only do it with virgin brass. I don't think I get that much better results using a mandrel than using only the right-sized bushing - especially with quality brass.

@@Engage1 I think that without it, you get a false sense of concentricity. The imperfections are on the inside of the case so the outside looks better (waiting on a shars indicator so I can actually start measuring the inside of the necks to see if this is true). So I think the mandrel not only opens up the neck for easier seating but makes it more uniform. Hell Erik Cortina and F-Class John so it and those guys are bonkers. Thanks again for the great content.