Ultimate Gumby
Ultimate Gumby
  • Видео 17
  • Просмотров 21 905
Party Time (5.7) - Fortress Wall - Trad Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
This video includes both pitches of the climb. I climb them in one long pitch but you can see the anchors of pitch one at 13:00. I love this climb, it protects super well, it's in a straight line so there's no rope drag, and it's just long enough that you can run both pitches together (only if you have a 70). I would recommend this way more than Bedtime for Bonzo which a lot of people come to this wall for. Bring lot of gear if you run the pitches together, I always seem to be running out towards the end. Climbed on 10/23/2019.
Просмотров: 1 904

Видео

Calypso I (5.7) - Fortress Wall - Trad Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.4 года назад
I liked this climb a lot but the scramble start was weird. The cracks are wider than they look from the ground and I made the mistake of bringing mostly small pieces up there. Climbed on 10/23/209.
Bedtime for Bonzo (5.6) - Fortress Wall - Trad Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 4,5 тыс.4 года назад
This video includes both pitches of the climb from start to finish. At 5:50 the first pitch ends and the second begins. To get to the second pitch from the first pitch, go in the direction shown in 5:46 which leads you into the hallway shown at 5:54. This climb is good but I think its a bit overrated. The first pitch is basically one move to a 45 degree angle walk for a majority of the climb to...
American Wall (5.3+ R) - Fortress Wall - Trad Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.4 года назад
I don't really know why I chose to do this climb but I think I enjoyed it. Wouldn't really recommend it to anyone because all of the flakes seem like they could break at any time and all of the gear placements are shit. Climbed on 12/23/2019.
Gunsight to South Peak Direct (5.4) - South Peak - Trad Climbing in Seneca Rocks, WV
Просмотров 8 тыс.5 лет назад
This climb has the coolest exposure of almost any climb I have ever done. It's super easy and the gear placements are all obvious. Great for an inexperienced leader. We took Tomato to get to gunsight ledge. We were going to take Debbie to Banana but a group was already on those pitches when we got there. Be careful because this climb is popular and frequently crowded. Not sure where it's actual...
Dynabolt Gold (5.10a) - The Great Wall - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 2865 лет назад
The Great Wall is located in Muir Valley. I don't have much of a description for this one. Honestly the climbs sucks. Climbed on 9/5/2019.
Bitter Ray of Sunshine (5.10a) - The Great Wall - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 1425 лет назад
The Great Wall is located in Muir Valley. I think this climb would have been more enjoyable if I hadn't been so tired. Seemed like it sucked at the time. Couple spots where you wouldn't want to fall because there is a ledge below you. Climbed on 9/5/2019.
Plate Tectonics (5.10a) - Tectonic Wall - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 7755 лет назад
Tectonic Wall is located in Muir Valley. This climb is one of my favorites. Just an overhanging jug haul. It's rare that I actually enjoy climbing but this one I can actually say I had fun on. Climbed on 9/5/2019.
Fifth-Bolt Faith (5.10c) - Tectonic Wall - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 2845 лет назад
Tectonic Wall is located in Muir Valley. This climb is alright but not really one of my favorites. The two to the left of it, Plate Tectonics and Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky are way better. The crux is a weird traverse move in the middle (3:40) and the rest of the climb is pretty easy. Climbed on 9/5/2019.
Good Gravy (5.10b) - Chica Bonita - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 1285 лет назад
Chica Bonita is located in PMRP. This climb is actually really cool, it transitions from hard slab to moderate overhang that pumps you out if you go too slow. The downside of this climb is that it is about 1000 yards from all the other climbs in Chica Bonita (that's not an exaggeration) and you have to do some serious bushwhacking to get there. I would really only recommend this climb to someon...
Slick and the 9mm (5.10b) - Drive-By Crag - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 1135 лет назад
Drive-By Crag is located in PMRP. The start of this climb is awkward, junky climbing. Then in the middle is a sweet roof that is short lived and leads right into more awkward junky climbing up top. Wouldn't really recommend it but who knows, maybe it's your kind of climb so here's a video of it. Also I just got a new GoPro and made the mistake of filming at 60 FPS in weird lighting (for those w...
Brown-Eyed Girl (5.10a) - Chica Bonita - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 5225 лет назад
Chica Bonita is located in PMRP. This is one of my favorite climbs at this wall. It's a beautiful slab with a hold everywhere you need one. It's also pretty easy for the grade so it makes a great warm-up or cool-down climb. I just got a new GoPro and made the mistake of trying to use 60 FPS while in weird lighting. Turns out I'm also a gumby at filming. Climbed on 8/31/2019.
Beware the Bear (5.10b) - The Hideout - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 1595 лет назад
The Hideout is located in Muir Valley. This climb looks awesome and really makes you think when you're climbing it. Maybe it's just because it was then end of the day (or because I suck) but I thought this climb was pretty hard for the grade. I assumed it would be easy because it looks like it is a jug haul from the ground but I was wrong and realized that quickly after getting on it. Climbed o...
Moots Madness (5.10a) - The Hideout - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 585 лет назад
The Hideout is in Muir Valley. This climb was pretty good but short. Would highly recommend using a stick clip for the first bolt. I chose not to because I'm an idiot. Climbed on 8/16/2019.
Boltergeist (5.10b) - The Hideout - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 2505 лет назад
The Hideout is located in Muir Valley. This is by far the most popular climb on this wall and for good reason, its an awesome climb. Pretty easy for the rating in my opinion. Also in true gumby style I'm pretty sure I actually back-clipped the last bolt. Climbed on 8/16/2019.
Roadside Attraction (5.7) - Roadside Crag - Trad Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.5 лет назад
Roadside Attraction (5.7) - Roadside Crag - Trad Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Fadda (5.10a) - Roadside Crag - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY
Просмотров 1685 лет назад
Fadda (5.10a) - Roadside Crag - Sport Climbing in Red River Gorge, KY

Комментарии

  • @rgr195
    @rgr195 Год назад

    P2 was fun, just over before it really gets going

  • @Alvinyokatori
    @Alvinyokatori Год назад

    There’s another crack to the left of the start of p2 that takes u to a different ledge, if u traverse that you’ll be on a “kentucky alpine” trail to the top, probably a chossy situation tho

    • @Alvinyokatori
      @Alvinyokatori Год назад

      The other crack is low exposure and might be an interesting scramble for a talented climber idk I Probly wouldn’t

  • @stevenmedly8062
    @stevenmedly8062 Год назад

    I really hope people aren't watching these videos to learn how to trad climb

  • @LouDude502
    @LouDude502 2 года назад

    Yeah, I just did this climb again yesterday. I was not a fan of the run between 3rd and fourth bolt 😆

  • @bloodink9508
    @bloodink9508 2 года назад

    Good vid. A good how to on the climb, less so on the gear. A learning experience as all trad is. Thanks.

  • @Rwmd953
    @Rwmd953 2 года назад

    What protection did you take for this route

  • @princenabby1
    @princenabby1 2 года назад

    This was sort of excruciating to watch. I know it's a few years old now, and everyone has to start somewhere, but I really want to encourage you to invest some time learning to place solid gear at the base of a crag and have someone more experienced assess it before you whip up high and end getting seriously hurt!

  • @JREV123
    @JREV123 2 года назад

    when belaying your follower, curious what happens if they fall between their last piece and the anchor, would they swing across 50-70 feet to your plum line at the anchor?

  • @marklishmael
    @marklishmael 2 года назад

    Yeah, offset nuts seat well and work better in those slots between the plates than standard nuts... but fortunately the climbing ain't that hard. But yeah, the protection on that route ain't what you would hope for. But it's a fun climb anyways.

  • @marklishmael
    @marklishmael 2 года назад

    Good climb, and a good video. Thanks for the beta. Looking forward to do this soon.

  • @LouDude502
    @LouDude502 2 года назад

    Missing the sounds of summer. Thanks for sharing🤙

  • @LouDude502
    @LouDude502 2 года назад

    For all the commenters... It's "R" for a reason. The placemats are going to be crappy or non existent. Lol. Sometimes in the RRG on an R route, the placements are mental lies anyway. Thanks for sharing. Be safe🤙

  • @stuff2climb102
    @stuff2climb102 3 года назад

    noice! when I did it we used some cordellette to build an anchor on that protruding rock where you spoke to those climbers up top, then did the traverse along the top on the second pitch. also you can build some fun top ropes on some of those bolts on either side to play on after.

  • @NatetheAceOfficial
    @NatetheAceOfficial 3 года назад

    Looks good for a passive send too! Those cracks look great! Excellent constrictions. They are a bit flaky though. Just don't fall, and you won't have to find out! Sick Send!

  • @Papershields001
    @Papershields001 3 года назад

    So many opportunities for bomber trad placements. I wanna climb this so bad.

  • @LongBoy.0
    @LongBoy.0 3 года назад

    This is so annoying to watch. You place way too much gear, just climb. There are so many standing no hands rests to place gear lol.

    • @thomaswezwick5470
      @thomaswezwick5470 2 года назад

      Agreed.........!!!!!!!!!!!

    • @thomaswezwick5470
      @thomaswezwick5470 2 года назад

      I climbed when we just climbed and did not have to GoPro everything,,,Plus the go pro makes claims wat steeper looking than they really are ,,, Giving a false illusion......5.6 ..

  • @hairymotter5455
    @hairymotter5455 3 года назад

    I wouldn't trust a belayer who doesn't know how to remove a cam

  • @lukeandraka3537
    @lukeandraka3537 3 года назад

    Im pretty sure plate tectonics is 5.7+ at the hardest. Nice try though

    • @chrisdecker7237
      @chrisdecker7237 3 года назад

      Mountain project shows it is 10a, but looks like pure fun either way.

    • @agawied2910
      @agawied2910 3 года назад

      You mad lukey

    • @jordans92169
      @jordans92169 2 года назад

      It's a 10 A

    • @lukeandraka3537
      @lukeandraka3537 2 года назад

      No no pretty sure 5.7+

    • @crabhands
      @crabhands 2 года назад

      @@lukeandraka3537 you must be so strong

  • @shawnlund
    @shawnlund 3 года назад

    You gain nothing by climbing past a shitty placement with good options all around.

  • @courtclimbs
    @courtclimbs 3 года назад

    Ooo, this is going on the list for sure

  • @JoeKunsch
    @JoeKunsch 3 года назад

    hold up... why was the PAS in your pocket? lol

  • @erikstrand9876
    @erikstrand9876 3 года назад

    You had a good nut placement on your first piece, and then traded it for a terrible nut placement, after passing three great but placement potential because they're "dirty" as you said lol

    • @andybraasch3798
      @andybraasch3798 3 года назад

      Having climbed that route myself none of the spots for pro are what you would call good

  • @garys5175
    @garys5175 3 года назад

    Sweet climb. Thank you for sharing.

  • @partykrew666
    @partykrew666 3 года назад

    bro, take your time with the placements lol. the one at 7:27 is pretty heinously bad. that said, this looks like it'd be pretty fun to fuck around on. obviously a little sandbagged, looks like it should be closer to 5.6 or 5.7 at the beginning

  • @bubbyb0i6967
    @bubbyb0i6967 4 года назад

    Whoa! Small world! I was with the couple at the top the day you climbed this! I remember seeing you and your dad get on it. Matter of fact, that was me at the bottom while you were on the first pitch lol

  • @ShowBizKidsZoo
    @ShowBizKidsZoo 4 года назад

    Great video! Thank you for posting this so I could vicariously re-live the moment. My recollection from climbing it myself (years ago) is that the first pitch ends at the top of the 'short chimney' on the west face (to the climber's right) just after he first chatted with other climbers by a bolt on the east face (16:00). Plenty of room there. It's opposite the side with the wrap bolts mentioned at 15:00. The 2nd pitch then mostly traverses the rest of the way to the mid-ridge summit and the 'guest register'. (Breaking up the route also prevents the heavy rope drag mentioned a few times.) One cautionary note: Whether done as a single pitch, or as a 2nd pitch, however, I would place pro here and there along the remainder of the climb/traverse to protect the lead and perhaps moreso the second -- and other climbers on the face below -- from a wide pendulum risk. Even if the lead or 2nd merely had a freak fall due to broken rock, lost footing, wildlife startling the climber, disruption of the rope by other climbers, etc., that long run-out could send the climber swinging down across one face or the other, into other climbers, ropes, pro, or unforgiving rocks in the process.

  • @LouDude502
    @LouDude502 4 года назад

    Been meaning to get the second part of this climb done. Thanks for sharing 🤙

  • @spencerdengler3689
    @spencerdengler3689 5 лет назад

    “Dude all the holds look good but they just.... aren’t. It’s making me pretty sad.”

  • @spencerdengler3689
    @spencerdengler3689 5 лет назад

    You’re fuckin raw

  • @spencerdengler3689
    @spencerdengler3689 5 лет назад

    Too ez

  • @revhead
    @revhead 5 лет назад

    Good climbing and gear placement. I love how you use ovals on the alpine draws to increase the degree of difficulty. So 1985!

  • @cavecudi2184
    @cavecudi2184 5 лет назад

    This guy’s a badass. But I bet I could take him.

  • @spencerdengler3689
    @spencerdengler3689 5 лет назад

    Sick

  • @spencerdengler3689
    @spencerdengler3689 5 лет назад

    Awesome

  • @spencerdengler3689
    @spencerdengler3689 5 лет назад

    Bad ass