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@@VNCTHE1 i agree. I dont mind it, but a color change is in the future plans.

@@corydunaway it does. I just didnt wanna spend the money and i didnt mind letting it sit for weeks while i did other work

Its been a while, i dont remember where i bought it. Probably amazon or ebay

I'm sorry, but I don't know. Which bolts are you referring to? The 4 that attach the rear driveshaft flange to the differential? I could check into it

@@deadpedalgarage6457 the bolts closes to the center support bearing. Hard to find, so trying to see if anyone knows the size, specs for those bolts.

I've never had much luck with the one person bleeders either. I have used a broom or something similar to hold the pedal down while I crack the bleed screw. It's a pain, but works. Also, don't forget to bleed the damper on the firewall as well.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 Thanks for responding! I actually did use the pneumatic bleeder on the damper. I guess I'll try your suggestions about using something to hold down the clutch pedal. Thanks again!

I haven't had that issue, but I would check all the grounds. Take the grounds all loose, clean the area, make sure there is solid metal contact, and then retighten them all.

I have reused stock headbolts a few times in the past and had years of daily use that way. Stock headbolts typically stretch, so I'd replace them if I could fit it in the budget.

It would take some custom made parts to put an external slave cylinder on. I don't really think it would be worth the time and money.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 is there a cable conversation

Conversion

It depends, if it's got the right amount of oil now and is running it could probably be rebuilt or repaired. If it was ran until it locked up because of no oil then it's probably not worth the trouble, I'd just look into finding a better condition engine. Also if you're unsure, I'd assume the worst and be prepared to need a new engine.

When I first started working on cars, I just went in blindly and took things apart and tried to put them back together. I never let my fear of screwing something up stop me from trying, but that of course came with a lot of mistakes to learn from. (Which still happens, and I still take as learning hard lessons) I then started buying repair manuals for my specific cars, but once I had the ability to search almost any topic with the internet I spent a lot of time reading about cars I liked and problems other people went through with them. I've also spent all my life buying or getting pretty rough vehicles and seeing them worth saving even when they aren't. So I've built up a lot of hands on experience fixing things as cheap as possible.

Also, a helpful tip. Learn how each vehicle system works and it's gonna help you alot and it will cost you nothing but time.

Lol, I wondered if anyone would notice. And yeah, I'd like to expand on that tattoo eventually.

I was having a similar issue for a couple years, but not that severe. Mine would start sucking air, but not leaking anywhere maybe twice a year. After changing to what seemed like a better quality brand (exedy), mine has been working properly since. But I would also check out the rubber hose and the fittings.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 Sure enough to clutch damper is leaking on top after I put it back in.... But I had problems for months after I removed it Always having to re bleed... I've got a clutch for vibration I wonder if that's introducing air into the system...

I bought a multi-piece cold air intake kit for a 94 Acura integra on ebay for about $50-$60. Then I modified it a bit to fit the way I wanted. I think mine is setup different now than the video shows because I originally planned to relocate the battery, but I haven't yet.

I don't have much experience with the 3.0, but I'm 90% sure it's on the passenger side. (Although, that does depend on if your truck is right or left hand drive)

It's attached to the transmission, passenger side

Thank you. I'm glad it helped!

It works well. I haven't had water in the trunk since doing this.👍

@@deadpedalgarage6457 I’m gonna give it a shot it’s 20 each for the gaskets. And prolly cost me only 10 bucks to make them I bet if that the glue prolly cost the most.

Lol, right! Thanks.

It's been a while since I did this. I assume you mean the intake manifold with the fuel injectors and rails all attached to it? If I remember correctly there is a bracket that connects the intake manifold to the block and is easy to miss. Use a flashlight and a small mirror if you can to look around as much as possible to see what's hanging up.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 thanks man🙏

Totally valid question. It's a bad habit of mine. I've never noticed any marks and I use razor blades to clean windows alot. But of course that is putting the blade flat like shaving the glass vs strait on it like a cutting board. I also typically work on glass that is old and has scratches already. In short, no I haven't noticed any marks, but it's probably not a smart thing to do.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 appreciate the response. I have this kit sitting in a box in my garage. Tedious jobs like this scare me so I've been avoiding that box like the plague for about 18 months. This video was tremendously helpful in getting more comfortable with it, thank you for taking the time to make it.

@PNWreckage no problem, I'm glad it could help. Thanks for watching it. It has been a while since I've done this, but feel free to ask any other questions and I'll help with what I can remember.

Search "422c conformal coating" at Amazon or eBay. The brand is MG chemicals and it comes in a 55ml container. It's about $30-$35, generally the cheaper option is amazon.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 thx man

Not gonna lie I’m stuck between should I get the scx24 dead bolt or not lmk what you than cuz it would be helpful

@cameronschofield6687 no problem. I love the deadbolt, it's the cheapest option of all the scx24 bodies and does great with any of the common upgrades. The jeeps and c10 are all cool if you want the scale looks, but they tend to have issues with bigger tires upgrades and less clearance in some ways. I was lucky enough to buy mine when they were $110. The higher price tag now is a bummer though.

I got mine off of Amazon.

1985

I got a used pulley from a junkyard, I've never heard of the epoxy holding very long or i would have tried that too. These cars are becoming more difficult to find in junkyards though. I also have all the 4ws parts to swap in eventually, but thanks though! I am hoping to get back onto this project soon.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 thanks man. Yup that's pretty much my next move. Also the 88-89 3rd gens have a 1 piece pulley so they NEVER separate lol plus they fit on a B21 which is cool. I guess with the "upgrades" and the B21 motor Honda decided to add a thin rubber strip to the damper in between pulley to help cut down on vibration. Well when I drive I can watch the pulley go back and forth with a $hit ton of vibration lol so I finally put it in the garage and gonna take it down to its undies

@@blazeaglory lol, yup. It's been a while since I got it, but now that you mention it, I think I did get the pulley off of a b20a5 that was a solid piece. I'm thinking about getting a block from one as well to do away with the frm sleeves in the b21a1.

​​@@deadpedalgarage6457 really? I like the FRM cylinders! Soft as a babies behind lol I just recently sent my head in for new valves and seals and I got new pistons for the B21A1. The cylinders have a little ridge at the top but honestly it came right off with some goof off and a plastic dish scrubber! I got new piston rings as well from NPR as they make the rings specific for the FRM cylinders. I think the problem with the oil is from bad valve seals or incorrect valve seals as the exhaust is different from the intake. It has an extra little ring of rubber I guess to keep the exhaust gases from reaking havoc lol but prior to taking down everything I had zero engine oil leaks and no blow back or anything. Didn't use up oil either. Almost 200k miles. I got lucky I guess, it's a low#s motor which are usually built with all A pistons (tiny bit bigger) but yeah my oil levels never moved! My internal cooling jackets are covered in thick surface rust tho due to prior owner running this thing until it was burning hot! The timing belt cover melted off! Anyways, the entire cooling system had thick rusty grimey gunk in it so I had to get a new radiator, over flow tank, hoses, etc... all the intake and idle parts were clogged as well lol honestly im surprised this thing ran as good as it did! These preludes are built like tanks bro!

@blazeaglory yeah, I agree they're built well. I overheated one so bad one time that the oil was seeping out between the head and block where the head gasket is. I was using cruise control and didn't realize I was overheating until people started flying by me and I noticed black smoke was billowing out behind me. But I pulled over, replaced the radiator which had broken and lost all my coolant, then changed the oil and filter, then drive another 250 miles home. I drove it daily and a few months later it started having major issues from when I overheated it. I ended up having to sell that car cause I couldn't afford to fix it at the time. Moral of the story is I pay a lot closer attention to the cooling system in my cars now, and the b21 is a very durable engine. And I don't dislike the frm sleeves, I just know typically the iron sleeves are easier to deal with.

The method I used in the video can be very difficult without a helper. You would need to wedge something on the pedal to hold pressure while you bleed the clutch cylinder. There are other ways like gravity bleeding or using a vacuum bleeder that would be easier to do alone. I personally have never been able to successfully gravity bleed, but have been able to use various vacuum bleeders to get it done.

Heat your copper washers to red hot with a torch, allow to cool down and they are as good as new

Thanks. I've been away from RUclips for a while, but I do plan to do a final video to finish this up and take it for a ride.

I just had to look that up, I didn't know there were flare seals available. That's a cool bit of information, thanks. As far as a small leak, I'd check the clutch damper on the firewall. Mine had a leak and would cause the same problem as yours. I ended up bypassing it because a new one was very expensive. Also, I'm assuming you have the same vehicle as me (Nissan 720 pickup) which I just realized may not be the case.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 I have the 94 hb 2.4 rwd charcoalgrey

6 days....better than 6 hours

Do you have a part number for the rubber flex hose from the junction to the slave cylinder male to male ends?

I go over what I do starting at about 19:10 into the video.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 .... The flare nut wont unscrew its stuck solid I even tried to propane torch...that's why I can't tighen slave cylinder unless I put some washers in the To make the point of a different angle...

@@truth409 ah, I see. That's frustrating. The only other solution I could come up with would be to cut the hardline, put a new nut, re-flare, and replace the rubber hose. But if the rubber hose is in good shape, it may not be worth the extra effort right now.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 The rubber hose is turning the clutch fluid black I tried to replace it ......the flare nut finally came undone rather easily But now it leaks with the new hose Because of a Miss match on the seating range of the flare on the end of the hard line..

I had that happening on this truck as well. I had to go with a completely different company to stop that issue.

I'm not sure how much you've taken off already, but with the outer window weatherstrip, door panel and the plastic weather sheet off I would assume there should be somewhere you could wedge your fingers under it to get it out. Maybe try a couple wire hangers hooked at the end to lift it a bit until you can grab it. Just be careful using the electric window with the window detached from it. I've seen them shatter from being pinched with the regulator assembly.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 finally got window out, had to remove speaker housing. Now my problem is the first higher side roller, the metal base that screws on to the actual bolt, refuses to come off

@@saltwaterbae9270 yeah, I remember that one being very tight. It might help to let some pb blaster soak in for a bit. I had to use various pliers to get the 2 parts separated. And it's nerve racking because it's through glass so you don't want any torque to transfer the wrong way and break the glass. If the part with the roller screwed off, you could screw the new roller onto the old base.

@@deadpedalgarage6457 I've hit it twice with pb Blaster, I think I might just use the same post. I have it 1/4 loose and it's not budging, gonna see if I can screw it back down and just add the roller

@@deadpedalgarage6457 Got the window in the tracks and everything but when I put it up-and-down it's hitting something inside I don't know what it is. It will go up and down just bumping into something