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@@through_the_lens_art I completely agree with you, but as it stands, it doesn’t work reliably with all lenses. It really depends on whether the focus throw is linear, logarithmic, or exponential. For example, I have three lenses from the same set that aren’t consistently sharp throughout the range. I’m really hoping DJI is already working on an update to allow for additional calibration points to address this issue.

@@tonyamartin1425 Who said that? At the time of this review, the GM II wasn’t even on the market yet…

@@deadendboredom then you need to update it my mother is half Sony so you are being racist to the Sony 24 70 GM ii and I am offended! you will be cancelled

@@tonyamartin1425 My deepest condolences to your half-Sony heritage. I’ll make sure to consult the GM II’s ancestors and its latest updates before daring to speak again. Please let me know if the lens itself prefers flowers or chocolates for my heartfelt and tearful apology!

@@deadendboredom Well thankyou and some aperture sensitivity training wouldn't hurt. Some people have to work for light! We didn't have 1.4 or 1.2 handed to us like our entitled Prime oppressors! We are back! say it loud! I'm 2.8 and I'm proud!!!!!!!

@@arjuna207 Are you interested in this from a particular perspective? A full run-through with every flavor of codec (LT, 422, HQ) across various situations would be quite involved. When the BRAW update comes out, I’ll probably do a more comprehensive comparison. Currently, ProRes in LT and to some extent in 422 shows a similar pixel-blocking issue like All-I, though it’s much less pronounced. But, of course, ProRes handles fast motion better overall. Given the large file sizes of HQ, I’ve typically found RAW to be more worthwhile. Once BRAW is available, it’ll likely outperform ProRes in every area-except compatibility.

@@deadendboredom I'm dissapointed that prores is marginally better than all-i in regards to the blocks. In some places in your video the mesh looked horrendous. I shoot mostly 4k S, but sometimes i need to crop and i'm a little dissapointed of the quality. I'm also curious about braw, i'm a davinci user so that will be ideal.

@@beatboxxdannyschwarzboxing9768 Any male-to-female USB-C 3.2 extension cable should technically work, since you still use the original cable with the correctly fitting connector housing on the grip. So, this extension cable becomes less critical. I can only send you the Amazon Germany link, and I’m not sure if it’s available in your country or if I can even post the link here. amzn.eu/d/04VU6qL

@@ethelquinn Yes, I’m looking forward to it, too… the only question is when, since it looks like winter 2025.

@@dc292177917 Oh, absolutely, that’s what I Do… though for anyone who prefers lugging around a fully built setup with bits and pieces sticking out, begging to be snapped off or yanked out, hey, all the power to you! Personally, even the USB-C cable on the side of the focus motor comes out if we so much as blink between scenes. 😉

@@deadendboredom 10mins just to talk about the bad design of a free case most users wouldnt even touch, good on you mate👍🏻 also for the calibration process its not meant to be done on that tiny screen on the handle...

@@dc292177917 A free case - kind of like the tires that come free with a car? Could you clarify where I’m supposed to handle this calibration process? Is it in the app, where the feature doesn’t exist? Or maybe on the $2000 Transmission System High Bright Monitor? Or am I just meant to select from pre-set profiles for lenses that are already calibrated?

@@michaelfrymus If there’s a D-Tap to USB-C PD solution, then yes-the handle can only be powered with PD during operation. When you say “handle,” do you mean just the battery grip or the entire handle unit? If it’s only the battery grip, theoretically it’s not required. However, I haven’t found a power plate like the one used for the gimbal that provides the lower voltage needed. If you mean the entire handle unit, then yes, it’s actually necessary to use LiDAR, with one exception: if you’re using the DJI Video Transmission (the big one)

@@myerssamuel1057 Active motion tracking from the gimbal isn’t enhanced by the focus unit. Focus: For example, if a person being tracked is momentarily blocked by an object between them and the lens, the focus will shift to the foreground object. Once the person is visible again, the tracking resumes. To prevent this, you’ll need to intervene by holding the focus wheel on the handle. I’ll get back to you shortly with more details on how it performs in different lighting conditions.

@@deadendboredom ActiveTrack and LiDAR are not integrated in any way? LiDAR would greatly improve auto-tracking in low light.

@@myerssamuel1057 I’m not sure if the RS4’s ActiveTrack truly benefits from the LiDAR, as I don’t own an RS4 myself. However, the following insights might clarify where the LiDAR actually helps and where it doesn’t. With LiDAR, regular autofocus without tracking is very reliable - even in complete darkness, the focus locks onto whatever is centered in the focus box. For person-tracking autofocus, I’ve found it works down to around 7 LUX (ISO 6400, f1.8); beyond that, it starts to become unreliable. If the RS4’s ActiveTrack operates through the Raven Eye using the actual camera feed, then tracking autofocus would, for example, be much more reliable on a Sony camera set to ISO 12800 f1.2 than through the LiDAR unit alone. This is because the LiDAR unit relies only on its own built-in camera for tracking, which isn’t as light-sensitive as the professional camera sensor.

@@deadendboredom Are you saying ActiveTrack relies on the LiDAR camera and NOT on the LiDAR itself? That's confusing. I thought ActiveTrack with LiDAR used the LiDAR to find and track the subject, and the that camera on the LiDAR was only to display on the Gimbal screen the framing area of the LiDAR and the location of the tracked target the LiDAR was seeing. That way you can make sure the subject in both LiDAR and camera are somewhat in the same area. I guess I need to find better documentation on these units.

@@myerssamuel1057 Let’s set ActiveTrack aside for now, as I don’t have the RS4. What I’m quite sure of, though, is that object recognition does not work via LiDAR alone. The camera in the sensor is responsible for tracking and determining the location, and then the LiDAR measures the distance to that specific point. LiDAR itself can only measure distances to points - it can’t recognize objects. A “regular” camera, on the other hand, can recognize objects but can’t measure distance. Here, the two technologies work together, each complementing the other’s capabilities. That’s at least my understanding of it.

@@rezjrprod Hard to say without a common reference point… From what I can tell, the motor is stronger than I’d expected, and so far, it’s handled every lens I’ve tried with no issues. That said, I haven’t tested it with any older lenses that might have stiffer focus rings. I might be able to tell you more by the end of next week.

@deadendboredom For instance the nucleus nano to has no issues with vintage lenses because of motor has been strengthened since the last I use the Helios 442 and the mir1

@@rezjrprod I just tried it on the zoom ring of a lens with relatively high resistance, and the motor had no issues handling it.

@@rezjrprod I experimented a bit more, and I can say with confidence that the motor is really powerful - I can barely stop it with my hand. I’d be very surprised if it had any issues with any lens, unless the lens itself has a mechanical problem.

@@cinematic-studio If you want to film in 50P, you should also set your timecode device to 50P. For the TC-1, this feature was added in one of the latest firmware updates. So, if you can only select up to 30P, you should perform a firmware update.

@@RodParmenter On the Sony page for lens updates, there is a list of cameras that cannot be used to perform the update. For the GM 24-70 Mk1, the FX6, FX3, and FX30 are among those listed.

@@antonkochlauritsen7606 The track doesn’t have a name you could look up because I composed the music myself and haven’t released it anywhere else. I’m glad you liked it.

@@deadendboredom what a lovely piece of music, crossing my fingers for a release🤞

@@riversheppherd121 Yeah, give it a try. To be fair, it technically does what it’s supposed to do quite well… if it weren’t for all the little annoying things around it. Let me know what your impression is when you try it out with the expectations you’ve gotten from this video.

@@PNWMOTION In my setup with the FX6 (and other cameras), I attach the sensor to the lens, as this is the optimal position with my lenses to see past the matte box. If I couldn’t attach it to the lens, it would definitely be more complicated, especially due to DJI’s somewhat odd decision to use a cold shoe mount. Does that answer your question, or are you looking for a specific thing with the FX6?

@@deadendboredom na just curious how you did it, I have mine on the way and I'm going to use a15mm clamp with rod along with 15mm plate to mount the Lidar too and see how that works but I'm looking for other options in case this doesn't pan out as I really want this to work haha. You're the first person I've seen mount it on the fx6 in a way that I like so far. Also Kondor Blue has a mounting kit that is pre order currently that might be a good option as well. Thanks for the response.

@@Komeltli danke für dein Kommentar! Das klingt so, als wäre das deine Erwartung, bevor du das Video gesehen hast. Haben die Szenen und Bilder etwas an deiner Meinung geändert, oder würdest du sagen, ich müsste noch bestimmte Szenen ausprobieren, um ein anderes Ergebnis zu erhalten?

@@HiSidiq Is the lens focusing normally? A rattling noise could, as I understand it, indicate an issue with a part of the autofocus motor where the adhesive might have come loose. However, this is usually the case when the autofocus stops working properly. My GM 135mm also makes noises that worried me, but it works perfectly fine. I had the impression that, as long as there’s no power, the lens groups might be able to move, and that’s where the noise could be coming from.

@@deadendboredom yes, im pretty sure this lens work properly. i just wonder how can this happen. i do ask about this on the store where i bought this and they say its normal when the lens had a stabilizer feature. but i think this zeiss 55mm did not have stabilizer, so its bother me so much since i bought this lens in a new condition. i think i'll go to service center and ask about it

@@HiSidiq The lens doesn’t have a stabilizer, so it can’t be that. Fingers crossed that the service center is a bit more competent and that everything is fine with the lens.

@@deadendboredom i wish it dudee. anyway thanks for your attention to my problem. i hope you doing good and have a great life

Thank you! I haven’t used the Panasonic with the 100mm lens, so it’s hard for me to comment on the Sigma’s performance without a direct comparison. Subjectively, I was positively surprised by the autofocus performance, even at close range. However, I would say it’s important to use a Sony camera with reliable touch tracking, as most small animals or objects are not automatically detected by the animal autofocus.

@@deadendboredom thanks! I appreciate your wisdom :)

Interesting: 25fps in PAL mode Long GOP x264 on FX3 140mbit/s, but 24fps in NTSC mode Long GOP x264 and x265 are 100mbit/s, so best bitrate per frame for x264 5.6mbit/frame, and for x265 4.2mbit/frame, 1.33 difference in bitrate, but it is still better than 1.5+ average bitrate difference for same perceptual image quality calculated by researchers. Overall 24fps 100mbit/s x265 should be perceptually 12+% better than 25fps 140mbit/s x264 from FX3.

@@igorzhidkov1957 Looks like you’re already halfway through making the third part

@@deadendboredom can help with math, but too lazy to go outside and shoot some nature;)

@@Manu_Flores 🤷‍♂️

@@vladlapadatescu You’re absolutely right. At least from the FX6, the Long GoP files are limited to 8-bit, no 10 Bit. The FX3 can shoot 10-bit Long GoP.

@@grazianoverrico1978 If the physical switch on the lens is set to AF, autofocus should still work. In the menu, AF-C might appear greyed out, and you’ll see the exact message you mentioned, but that’s likely because only this mode is available. Continuous autofocus and eye tracking work perfectly fine, at least for me.

@@Juaansi With a cage that has a NATO rail on the side, it’s definitely compatible and makes handling the 6K a bit easier than usual. However, even with the grip, the camera still doesn’t realy become ergonomic.

@@MultiMattRogers It should be centered above the lens, but not directly over the sensor, as in many cases the lens would get in the way. That’s what the offset in the settings is for.

.. I do not have this. And I tried many lenses.

@@d_FLDE idk, it's repeatable in my case on 35mm Arles and on 18-85 Red Pro Zoom, and this issue happens on all 3 firmware versions I've used. Always lagging behind on pullbacks, it's less visible when you're over 2m from subject, but it is still there in my case.

Also, prior starting calibration, I actually would recommend to go to flexspot mode (small square on the left of the screen in video preview), and tap on screen so the focus is on the target, and then press the trigger button. The target will show yellow instead of white and will track the target while you're focusing, and will show the correct distance to the target but not anything around, especially useful on wider lenses.

@@alexlubensky Are you referring to the Hand Unit when you say FIZ? I was actually planning to get the Hand Unit soon, but I’m still unsure... Maybe you can help answer a few questions? Does autofocus still work when the Hand Unit is connected and not the handle, or is manual focus the only option with the Hand Unit? Are all the necessary cables included with the Hand Unit? It seems like there’s only a D-Tap to USB-C cable for the motor. Some time ago, there was also a breakout box, but I haven't seen it recently.

@@deadendboredom yeah I was referring to Hand Unit. Basically it works wireless, meaning if the Pro Grip is connected one can use it to override autofocus in AMF mode, or use it manually like a regular FIZ Unit. No additional cables needed if you opt to use it together with Pro Grip, and if one wants to use it with DJI transmission system and monitor - then you can use the included d-tap to usb-c cable to power the motor (beware that one can’t do so when using Pro Grip, it will fry the grip and the grip can’t control the focus motor wirelessly). Basically it’s a separate solution where the brain of the system is the Wireless Monitor, made for crewed gigs

@@deadendboredom once the Hand Unit is turned on it overrides control from the Pro Grip, if they are used simultaneously. The Pro Grip acts as the brain of the system to track subjects when using autofocus, and if set to AMF a 1AC can override it at any moment, or switch to MF and focus manually. It doesn’t show distances on the Hand unit though, only the Wireless Monitor is showing proper distance markers

@@deadendboredom basically if you plan to use it alone there’s no reason to purchase the hand unit. I’ve got it because only the all in one combo was available atm, and I do sometimes work with crews and lazy enough to swap between Nucleus M and DJI focus pro

One can extend the cables using USB-C extension cables (yeah that totally doesn't sound right, but at least one can get them l-shaped and with any length and it does work).

@@alexlubensky After I released the video, support told me that they had shortened the pins so that regular USB-C cables wouldn’t be compatible. I really hope DJI learns from this, does fewer odd things, and thinks a bit more about practicality.

@@deadendboredom that’s what regular RUclips reviews call “ecosystem”)) yeah that was an odd move to lock people to use only DJI branded cables. I wouldn’t argue if they had variety of cables and connector shapes, which were robust and good. But…

Any grip except the BG21 will fry the Pro Grip eventually. Don't use any grip except the BG21 ever.

@@alexlubensky Thanks for the addition!

@@alexlubensky.. really ? I had the non compatible note but ignored it so far using the grip of my rs3 as a backup as it drinks battery

@@d_FLDE All I can say is that the DJI support team confirmed that the Focus Pro is not designed for the higher voltage. Even if it works, I imagine that if something does go wrong, you definitely wouldn’t be able to claim warranty.

@@deadendboredom , they have a dtap to usbc cable in the box with a big yellow patch on it that says : only for focus motors, everything else is most likely getting fried (of course not these words but within the line. As it is part of the shipment it is of course under warranty

@@FollowTheJohn Focus breathing is not a „problem“ with the Focus Pro, but your lens. I also noticed the volume of the motor and I forgot to mention it (Just like some other things). This happens mainly when the focus changes quickly... With slower changes it is very quiet, at least if you are not recording with the camera's internal mic or one directly on the camera.

@@deadendboredom So all of my cinema lenses are no good?

@@FollowTheJohn Why shouldn’t they be good? Which ones do you have? If focus breathing bothers you and your lenses have it, then that’s a characteristic of your lenses that you don’t like. Are we talking about the same phenomenon - the slight change in focal length when focusing?