- Видео 39
- Просмотров 448 844
AlpineSavvy
Добавлен 21 сен 2018
Grigri FAIL / inversion when loaded from below
Petzl has a specific warning on their website that certain models of the Grigri belay device can potentially fail if they receive a large load from below. Admittedly this would be a very unusual situation, but there are some cases when it could happen.
Here's a video clip made by Kevin Govan showing the mechanism of failure.
(Actual fail happens about 2:00.)
See a longer article on this topic and said the exact warning from Petzl at this link: www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/dont-pre-rig-a-rappel-with-a-grigri-on-top.
AlpineSavvy - Get skilled, stay found. 500+ climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist.
Here's a video clip made by Kevin Govan showing the mechanism of failure.
(Actual fail happens about 2:00.)
See a longer article on this topic and said the exact warning from Petzl at this link: www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/dont-pre-rig-a-rappel-with-a-grigri-on-top.
AlpineSavvy - Get skilled, stay found. 500+ climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist.
Просмотров: 3 300
Видео
DIY Climbing Anchor Board
Просмотров 2,8 тыс.Год назад
Here's how to make a DIY climbing anchor practice board. Disclaimer - Hopefully this is blindingly obvious, but this is ONLY to be used when your feet are firmly on the ground, and NEVER for any kind of training at height! Do not use this for full body weight or rappelling! Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about any c...
Girth hitch master point - cut one strand?!
Просмотров 3,6 тыс.Год назад
Here's a highly unscientific (but still pretty darn fun) test of the girth hitch master point. Girth hitch master point anchor with a Dyneema sling. Loaded with two pretty big guys. One of the strands was cut. Did the anchor fail? . Nope. . Questions . . . What are the chances of a strand breaking? Extremely unlikely, but it's possible. Did you put a "magic X" in the hitch? I did not. What abou...
Daisychaining a rope
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.Год назад
Thin rope, like 5mm or 6 mm, can work as a rappel pull cord, haul line for a pack, or (for a specialized static rope like the Petzl RADline), glacier travel and crevasse rescue. One problem with skinny rope? They can easily turn into an incredible tangled MESS unless you take some active steps to prevent it. One way to tame it is using a rope bag of some kind. Here's another good method, common...
Racking cordage: "Do the Twist"
Просмотров 2,6 тыс.Год назад
Racking cordage: do the twist There are a few different ways to rack long slings and cordless so they are compact, tidy, and deploy quickly when you need them. (Good rule in climbing: avoid having anything hanging below your knees where it can trip you up.) Here’s my preferred method. Fast, simple, no need for cutesy macramé projects. This works for slings or cords of any length, from 60 cm sli...
Kong Slyde personal tether demo
Просмотров 10 тыс.2 года назад
The Kong Slyde is a clever device that can be used to make a personal tether for climbing. Use about 2 meters of rope that's around 8.5 mm. It's easily adjustable to any length you like, and is quite inexpensive to make. See more than 400 other climbing tips like this at Alpinesavvy.
Bowline on a bight
Просмотров 2 тыс.2 года назад
Here's how to tie a double loop bowline on a bight in a sling for climbing. You can use this to make a series anchor. Learn this and 400 more climbing tips at Alpinesavvy
The "Cowboy" Figure 8 on a bight
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.2 года назад
The “Cowboy” figure 8 on a bight What's a “cowboy knot? It's a way of tying a knot that's fast, flashy, and fun! The figure 8 on a bight is one of the fundamental knots in climbing. Here's the cowboy version of tying it. (I learned this #CraftyRopeTrick a long time ago from a rock gym manager, and have loved it ever since.) There may be a twist in it when you're done; dress your knot properly t...
How to tie the Snap Bowline
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.2 года назад
The snap bowline - around your waist and a tree The snap bowline is a quick way of tying a bowline, by passing the free end through a slipknot. . It's good practice to backup the bowline if it's used in any climbing or life support situation. This is typically done with an overhand knot or slightly more secure, a barrel knot. Both methods are shown. . See a longer article on the snap bowline, a...
Big wall rigging: the “far end haul”
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.2 года назад
For big wall haul bag rigging, connecting your haul rope to a progress capture pulley on the haul bag(s) has several advantages. One of them is that you can easily set up what’s called a “far end haul”. This is a redirected 2:1 mechanical advantage system where the lifting and progress capture happens at the bag, not at the anchor. . Having this option can be especially helpful if you're soloin...
Clip a quickdraw - stick and double loop slipknot
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.2 года назад
Climbers - Do you need to clip a “project” quick draw that’s already on a bolt? Provided you have a stick or something similar that can reach the bolt, and you know how to tie this crafty double slipknot, it’s easy to do. 1 - Tie a double loop slipknot. 2 - Put one of the two loops into a stick, trekking pole, or something similar, and tighten that loop down. 3 - Push the stick up, and carefull...
Beal rope marker demo
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.2 года назад
Here's a quick demonstration of how to use the Beal rope marker to put a nice little mark on your rope. To set up a repair at the exact middle, and to be sure your rope is long enough to lower off of a one pitch climb, a middle mark is very important. Even if your rope comes from the factory with the middle mark, they can wear at over time. I recommend gloves to keep your hands clean, cardboard...
Climbing- rubber band on open sling, DANGEROUS!
Просмотров 7 тыс.2 года назад
Some people think it's a good idea to put a rubber band on an open sewn sling, usually snugged up against the carabiner to keep it properly aligned. I've seen this done on both Alpine quickdraws and a personal tether. This is potentially a really dangerous thing to do, and there have been deaths and serious accidents from this. Her'e why. If you clip the carabiner back through the sling, and th...
Use a cam strap to close your haul bag
Просмотров 7062 года назад
Use a cam strap to close your haul bag
Munter hitch to clove hitch transition
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.2 года назад
Munter hitch to clove hitch transition
Russian aider demo - Aideer Climbing
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.2 года назад
Russian aider demo - Aideer Climbing
Untying a weighted Edelrid Aramid sling
Просмотров 4,1 тыс.2 года назад
Untying a weighted Edelrid Aramid sling
Weekly CalTopo satellite imagery - Mt Adams, WA
Просмотров 3983 года назад
Weekly CalTopo satellite imagery - Mt Adams, WA
open a triple action carabiner with 1 hand
Просмотров 6 тыс.3 года назад
open a triple action carabiner with 1 hand
Ski circumnavigation of Mt. Hood, Google Earth tour
Просмотров 3273 года назад
Ski circumnavigation of Mt. Hood, Google Earth tour
Tips for using pyramid tarp tents in snow
Просмотров 7 тыс.3 года назад
Tips for using pyramid tarp tents in snow
The Stone hitch (aka Stone knot or Stein knot)
Просмотров 8 тыс.3 года назад
The Stone hitch (aka Stone knot or Stein knot)
Climbing gear strength testing from the Alpine Club of Italy (CAI) with English subtitles
Просмотров 4,7 тыс.3 года назад
Climbing gear strength testing from the Alpine Club of Italy (CAI) with English subtitles
2mm cord cuts through 9mm climbing rope
Просмотров 3,5 тыс.4 года назад
2mm cord cuts through 9mm climbing rope
What’s condensation like in this?
Coward
Why Is the nut needed? Same result without it, no?
Ok so do you get the anchor hook in first 🙈🙄
This is nuts
You're right. Climbing is nuts. Everybody should just go bowling.
This doesn’t seem too practical
Why do you think this is not practical?
The other video they did of the double loop slipknot can be used to hold a quickdraw open and keep the draw attached to the stick. It may be a bit finnicky but still works. No need for nuts/rocks or tape. ruclips.net/video/nZOSySR358U/видео.htmlfeature=shared
@@johngo6283 i don’t know nothing about climbing but I sure wouldn’t think a stick, acorn and piece of tape to be that bet fit for the task
@@hereitsQ well you are correct. Normally, it is a good idea to use proper gear for climbing. But in this case, all you need to do is clip that Carabiner onto the bolt when it's 15 feet over your head, so in this case, it works fine.
That's becuase it's completely unnecessary.
Hopefully all these guides switch to this over the microtraxion...
What Happens if there is no break Hand and a Fall?
There should ALWAYS be a break hand unless it's tied in as shown in the video. This is regardless of the belay device.
It may catch, it may not. Personally I think if a device locks up after an initial tug, that should protect you against your belayer potentially losing their balance and accidentally letting go to stabilise themselves. This also looks much less likely to cause a belayer to short rope their climber, so looks to be mostly positive changes to me. There is no perfect belay device though
So question from a noobie, why not make a masterpoint between them so less jerking if one fails?
Thanks
Never seen crimps like that, what mountain is this? Are your above the clouds?
Looks like mount Homer, stratified Cedarite.
Apparently it should NOT be used to belay a person below the belayer.
There is some confusion on this. I think initially Petzl said no. However, it's clearly stated in the technical documentation for the device that it's OK to belay from the top directly off the anchor.
@paulmitchell5349 why? I know it's a different situation, but I like to understand the mechanics of what makes it dangerous
I'm not sure what's happening, but this is a very satisfying demonstration 😊
It’s for rock climbing
Don’t have that issue with grigri 2
At last! A good method!!!
Would tie it in to both also work?
Yes, it would.
I strongly advise against using an eight mm rope in this device since from my personal experience a so thin rope gets crossed into the larger hole of the Slide and so the device set-up loses its halting function and becomes nothing more than a sort of munter hitch. I had use it in aid climbing in my first attempts and it happened a few times (bad moments). A nine mm rope should avoid this eventuality (maybe), but of course it makes the system much stiffer. I think Kong should reinvent this device using smaller holes for smaller ropes, both achieving a smooth use and avoding the rope-crossing danger.
Люди, можете подсказать. Что делать если при использовании узал уиаа, при спуске сильно греется карабин, так должно быть, не расплавит ли карабин верёвку при резком спуск и остановке? Подскажите пожалуйста
Thanks for this great video. When going with the A-frame do you have to lash the two poles together at the very top? Or does the tension from the tent hold them securely?
Very nice demonstration. 🙏🏽 thank you
I may be mistaken but I feel like this can easily lead to backclips. 👀
By far the best winter tent I’ve used has been mid style shelters (mainly used the Mountain Hardware Kiva, have close to thirty nights of snow camping using it). Currently I have a Black Diamond Mega Lite with the newer poly fabric that’s supposed to not sag as much when it gets wet. Having the Mega Snow would be ideal I think. I really enjoyed having the storm flaps with the Kiva. So many great possibilities for customizing your shelter space when you go floor less that can greatly improve comfort and livability. I like the A frame ski suggestion for the added structural strength and to do away with center pole being in the way.
best video
If you completely misuse the device with a rope that’s too skinny the device can fail? Who would’ve thought
This was done to illustrate the principle. Petzl clearly warns against doing this on their website. You can do it with a larger rope but it's difficult to film solo.
I'll never use a grigri
It has happened to me while I was setting in my home gym, thankfully, the rope didn't slide out, it passed behind the notch but stayed (I don't know how) engaged (also, I had knots tied under me, even if it slept, it would have stopped) but that was pretty scary ( I apologize in advance if my English is not perfect)
Your English is perfect, thanks for sharing your story. That does sound a little scary.
why would you give a firemans belay w a grigri lmao
not the point. its not impossible for something else to weight the break strand in a bazaar scenario. still good to know nontheless
How about the person rappelling has a problem, and someone on the ground decides to ascend the rope to help them. That effectively is a firefighter belay, and that could potentially cause a failure. Doesn't matter what you call it.
I imagine this becomes more likely the older and more worn the Grigri is?
😳 great video
The grigri is clearly an excellent tool for use in mountain terrain and when used properly and with respect to its known failure modes is extremely safe....but the problem with moving parts is that they introduce a wider spectrum of configurations over which new failure modes can creep in. That is the trade off for devices of this kind. Personally, I do not love the feel of a grigri enough to carry one but I am not dogmatic about it. The added benefit of my abstention is that I don't really need to keep track of all these kinds of dangers. I really appreciate the clarity of this video. Thank you for posting it!
They seem more secure however the lining up of the holes and hooks seems like it would be a chore... Constantly having to look down and if you miss... IDK I do want to try these.
Perfect how to video! New skill learned! Thank you!
Have you seen the product made by PractiBolts for this purpose?
Dude, what if my rope is black?
Shouldn’t your end of the rope be along the spine and not the gate side?
If the lower point fails, the sling will slide through your "knot" and you’re done. use a clove hitch instead... This halves the load on your upper anchor under a downward force, and places most of the load on the upper anchor where it should be. With a clove hitch, if the lower fails, even if the hitch slides, it will stop when the lower beener reaches the hitch. With the clove hitch, in a upward force, it functions the same as your version / as intended.
Less is better (?)
Sooo Cool
THX !!!!!!! :) after 10 min I can do it with closed eyes :D thx :D
Yay! 👍👍👍
Which knot would you use for a high rapell device? Directed figure 8, alpine butterfly or...? In this case it would probably need a little more than 2 m of rope.
Do you mean to attach a belay device if you wanted to also use your tether as a rappel extension? If so, on a single strand tether like this, people generally clove hitch the carabiner at the desired distance away from the harness.
mine destroyed my fresh new rope when i was practicing normal and easy crevasse rescue. almost cut my rope in 2.... i will stick to prussik
Why not 3 strands?
Because three strands are not needed for redundancy, and it would require a lot of extra cord.
If the question is clipping 3 strands, that's the same as clipping one strand only.
Hey how come you are not posting content here?
Soon as he pulls it tight...(Whips out box cutter and cuts of the rest or the "excess")..😂😂😭😅
Yoooo how good
can you release it under load?
No.
seems like the major shortcoming to me as well. Thanks for asking. Based on this I am going to go the petzl connect route.
Yes just tilt it upwards
That is not science or even a tip, just missinformation. Data is out there to proove that it is not a redundant way to build an anchor, a cut leg and it could slip with the force generatad by a fall.
best and most concise vid out there for these two
Thanks for your kind comments. There’s an unfortunate trend on RUclips to make unnecessarily lengthy videos, because the algorithm seems to favor them, more opportunities to place ads, etc. For me, I value the time of people choosing to watch my videos, and if I can see it in one or two minutes, there’s absolutely no need to make it 10 or 12.
@@johngo6283 Appreciated!
Short and to the point. Have a comment, algorithm.
And if the rubber band weren't there it would just completely unclip, so how is this worse?
Because when it completely unclipped, you immediately notice it. If you had the rubber band there, it might appear to be intact, when in fact you’re only hanging by the rubber band. That’s where people have died with this.