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Yeah..... No lol. But I will say this, this is the older video before the trigger pre-travel and over travel screws were set. And it was also before the adjustable sear and race Hammer were installed. If you want to see the final form go watch the other video. But even in this current state it's not even a contest versus the stock single action, the stock single action has a rolling break orcreep, it has a disconnector. This doesn't, but this had a tiny bit of creep left until I installed those other parts, but the break of the trigger was better than stock single action already in this video. I think in its final form it was down to about 2 and 1/4 lb with no creep. It's close to some of my best 2011 triggers that I've done.

Lol I have no idea where it's from, I saw it and just had to have it. It's a patch LOL.

Not sure if you could see it in the video and I don't remember if I discussed it or not, but both of these have the Cheely E2 grips on them.

This trigger hangs in there with my best 2011s, I still love it. And now sometimes when I'm looking for a new gun I look for something and I can put Lok grips on lol

Well it's been some time and I'm still running the 11 lb sprain. I don't think I ever went to the 17 lb mainspring on this, I just never felt I needed it. I did go to it on a few other 2011s and did not experience anything negative, I would have to check my notes on which ones though.

In addition to that information, I did go down to a 10 lb variable spring on the staccato P and it was really great, I have not attempted to go down that low on this one yet.

@@MoneyShot_CMthat’s very good information, thank you! I’ve seen on a few other channels and on Reddit that people are using 8 or 9 lb springs. I’m extremely new to the platform so I’m unsure if that could cause issues or what that could entail, but it’s interesting to see the large variety of spring weights used in these

@mr3xklusiv as long as the gun runs reliably any weight is fine, it's all really subjective. It has a lot to do with how good your grip is as well. It comes down to valuing return to zero over a softer felt recoil. Some people like those 9 lb springs, it's all about your personal preference. I would buy a pack and test them out that's what I've been doing, the pack usually comes with about three or four different weights. I'm starting to see that my preference on my guns are usually in the 10 or 11 lb range.

This was my first one, the slide and frame came fitted from them. I hand fit the next build I did.

@@MoneyShot_CM Awesome thanks for the info. Looking to do a similar first build myself and trying to figure it all out. How did their fit compare to your hand fit and which one would you recommend doing for a first build?

@Caleb-f3u I spent a lot of time researching parts in reading in the forums and stuff, on my first build I wanted to be as successful as possible and I made sure that everything was going to be as easy as possible. That's why I chose to have them hand fit to slide the frame fit for my first one. To be honest I was disappointed that I didn't do it myself because the gun ended up going together very easily. Or at least easier than I thought. Their hand fit was better than mine, but mine was good enough and it's pretty tight once all the parts got together on the second one. I've seen a lot of people screw up the guns and I would didn't want that to happen on the first one. All that said you still have to hand fit all the other parts so there's still plenty of other work to do and it's challenging but satisfying. I don't think there's any shame in having them hand fitted for the first one, but I would watch a few videos on how to do it first and see if you're up to the task.

@Caleb-f3u I forgot to tell you, do your research on what grip you select you need to pick one that plays nice with the frame that you buy that's one of the hardest things I had to do it's a lot nicer when they just slip right on lol

Congrats! I just a 509T on mine, love it. I've been carrying it in a Tenicor with the Tlr-7 HLX

Where did you have it milled? Through Wilson?

@Blaster9mm no way, too expensive and I think they take a long time. Monsoon tactical is pretty quick when you're only getting an optic cut it took less than 2 weeks and I think it was like 160 bucks with shipping or something like that. I chose the 509t because monsoon direct Mills it and there's no plate system.

@ wow may have to go that way, I’ve heard of them they do good work. Did they refinish the slide?

@Blaster9mm I chose not to refinish the slide because I wanted to stick with Wilson's coating, Wilson slides as you know are stainless steel. So I put a healthy amount of grease under there and I think I'll be fine. I'll check it from time to time make sure I don't have any issues. The slide and frame fit on mine is just too perfect I didn't want to go back with cerakote or something like that.

Eemann tech

Yes, with their plate. So far it's been great.

Maybe someday, it's on the list

So you mean the Mac 9DS itself or versus others? To me it shoots as soft as most other Commander size 2011s, but not as soft as the staccato p. I should state that I don't value soft recoil over return to zero, it has a nice return to zero. I have later videos of testing out different spring rates if you care to watch it in slow motion.

Zero fitting

I'll have to look, I think there are two that work. One leaves a little Gap between the trigger guard and the other one snugs it up and I can't remember which one. I'm not near it right now

No worries. Whenever you can look that would be awesome. Thanks.

I'm pretty happy with it, and I haven't even got all the work done to it that I need. I did an ignition kit and a new grip and threw an optic on it, changed out the springs and it gets better every time I shoot it, oh I changed out the trigger too LOL.

It's on the list to do, I just haven't got the nuts to do it yet LOL

The light isn't changing how the slide behaves. It has some effect on muzzle rise, and return to zero in conjunction with the spring. I've shot it with every spring from 10 up to stock, with and without the light. Since I made this video I think I settled on the 11-pounder and I have been running it with no light mostly. I think it's all personal preference honestly. It comes down to how strong your grip is and what your preference is. Some prefer the softest shooting others the perfect return to zero

Lost a bunch of weight, this is old footage, it has been corrected, thanks 👍

They start at 374 but there's a discount code out there for 15% off it takes them down to like 325 or something

@@MoneyShot_CM nice. I'm about to order the MAC right now lol. I'm just trying to plan out what I wanna do to it

Yeah it's big, Big gun + big light = big holster. It works for five of my guns when I have the tlr1 on it, it's surprisingly comfortable to carry a strong side. Just wait till you see the versions that carry with the x300 LOL

First, have not shot the Sig 226 X5, I would really like to though. My first gun was a p226 when I was young. I've got some good information for you on the 365. I have a p365 macro with the Icarus polymer grip, a 4.3-in threaded true Precision barrel and a Herrington comp. I went with the polymer because I didn't want to spend $400 on the metal grip, when I put them both in my hand the metal one to me just wasn't that special and I really like the polymer at 130 bucks. As for the Harrington comp and the true Precision barrel, it really does change the gun accuracy wise and recoil wise, and you can get a spring kit to make it either shoot softer or get a better return to zero, whatever your flavor is. It's worth it to me. It's better than the standard built-in slide comp the macro has. I carry it often even though it's long as fuck it's still pretty thin and it's easy for me to carry, the length doesn't bother me. I too was blown away by all the p365 ramjet afterburners reviews, so I went and bought a p365x and last night I installed the ramjet on it, I'm going out to the range tomorrow to test it. What's great about it is it's still so small, it's about the length of a macro but that X grip is so tiny but you can fit a full hand on it, or these I can. I really feel like it's going to be a great build, although expensive. I'll be putting a video out on it and I'll share some information with everybody tomorrow, I doubt the video will be ready tomorrow okay but I'll get back to you.

I've been drifting back and forth on different springs lol.

Mjd solutions villain grip.. same as the title

@@MoneyShot_CM thank you!

That's a great question. I wouldn't think there would be that much of a cost difference. I would love to hear their reasoning. Maybe they have a good one, I just can't think of one. Some people don't mind it, I do

Originally STI and SV used a plastic trigger face on the trigger bow because it was very light. In those days, the other choice was aluminum. In the 1911/2011, if the trigger is too heavy, esp with a nice trigger job, you can get trigger bounce. So low mass triggers are a good thing. Can you get that in an aluminum trigger? Sure. Is there anything wrong with the plastic? Nope. Many many many many championships have been won with 2011s with the original type triggers. But of course you can personalize it should you want to. Be aware that there is a level of you need to know what you are doing should you decide to change the trigger, and not all of them are “drop in” despite what the words on the package says.

@@forcesolutions4154 I've built a few 2011s from the ground up. Fit a dozen triggers and safeties. I'm not a professional or anything but experienced enough. Sure they work they same, it's not something that would help or hurt in competition, because 5 the length, to me it's a quality thing. It's as bad as mim parts to me. I just didn't think plastic doesn't belong on guns that expensive. I've never experienced trigger bounce. I can't see an aluminum trigger having too much mass lol. Thanks for filling me in, Ill have to study up on that. I'm getting ready to start producing my own triggers with Atlas bows. Every but of info is valuable.

@@MoneyShot_CM MS - I appreciate your videos and the work you are doing. It is incredibly satisfying to accomplish such things. Anyway, there’s a lot of info out there about it. Now that skeletonied/ lightweight triggers are pretty common (at one time they were not), instead of the full size ones, it’s not so much a thing nowadays. However, as variables such as the length of the hammer hooks shorten, the primary angle on the sear gets changed or shortened or worn, hammer springs and sear springs get lighter, you can create conditions such as hammer follow and sear bounce. People who don’t know how to fit a safety to a sear (just drop it in, right?) create the condition of scant safety, in which the safety lug fails to keep the sear from moving and you can then have the hammer falling when you disengage the safety (hopefully the halfcock notch captures it, but under certain conditions it may not). There’s a lot of history to this gun and I think it’s great for people to be learning about it and to customize it. You probably should get Jerry Kuhnhausen’s books about the 1911, there’s great info in there. Anyway regarding trigger bounce - here is some info that tracks with what I know about it: 1911Tuner May 12, 2004 Hammer bounce works thus: When the slide goes to battery at full speed... as with lettin' it slam on an empty chamber... the sudden stop at the end is what bounces the hammer. The pistol is jerked forward violently, and the hammer tries to obey Newton's first dictum that states: "Objects at rest tend to remain at rest." The hammer tries to stand still when the pistol jerks forward, and "floats" for a split second because a weak mainspring is overcome by the hammer's at-rest mass. A nanosecond later, the mainspring regains its footing and slaps the hammer forward, and the sear catches it. If the left leg of the sear spring is weak or overtweaked, the sear isn't in the fully reset position to catch the hammer hooks, because it bounces a little too... At that point, the very tips of the hooks are standing on the sear... which makes for about a 8-ounce trigger pull for that shot, or the hooks miss the sear completely and the hammer follows the slide... usually to the half-cock. In extreme circumstances... and everything must be juuust right... the hammer will catch and jar off the sear just as the slide slams home, and fires theweapon. In even extremer (is that a word?) The cycle repeats and the pistol doubles or goes full-auto. A pistol with a fine-tuned trigger, the sear primary angle is narrowed in order to make the break sharp and clean... and lighten it up a little. The small angle... often as narrow as .010 inch... is easily damaged by hammer bounce, and after just a few such events, the trigger job will be ruined. A strong mainspring keeps the hammer in contact with the sear, or at least won't let it bounce as far out of engagement, so the damage is minimized or avoided altogether. Going strictly by feel, you would be hard-pressed to tell the difference between a 23# mainspring and a 19 pounder. An accurate trigger- pull gauge might show a difference of 4 ounces, assuming that the hook and sear primary angles are correctly matched, and that both hooks are bearing evenly on the sear. Whew! That got a little involved. Hope this clears it up. bountyhunter May 12, 2004 There is another evil actor that can contribute to "hammer bounce" effect. The trigger also has mass, so it has inertia. When the frame bangs forward after the slide slams home, the trigger tries to remain at rest and therefore applies a tiny rearward pressure to the disconnector/sear at the instant it hits. That "tiny" trigger pull force moves the sear slightly and can add to the separation distance between the hammer hook and the sear nose.... making it worse when the hammer bounces back into contact with the sear. If the sear spring is very light, it can allow the hammer to drop to the half cock notch. This is the reason for those very expensive ultra-light triggers you see on comp guns (and the fact that they look cool). dave2.freeshell.org/1911/hammer26/hammer26.htm

@@forcesolutions4154 I'm on a trip right now I have to read the rest of this in the hotel room tonight. I've been cutting my sears angles for a while now, it's my favorite thing to do, I have made a mistake once that was quite scary lol. I'll leave it at that haha. Thanks for all that info I'll read it tonight for the hotel

Yeah, I talked to them and that is what they said, but that is not the normal with 2011. A right-hander will ride the left side safety with his thumb while shooting. At least that is how most do. To me, A wide safety doesn't dig into my side any more than normal. It's all good though it works either way. I'm probably going to replace the safety on this eventually, a good one is just so expensive though

I rarely carry appendix, everything I carry is strong side. On occasion I do have to stuff this thing in my pants appendix it's just fine walking around, but for me there's no sitting LOL. The Werkz is great, I like it better than my Tier1 and McKinatec Holsters designed around the TLR1. It's got a built-in wedge type thing that works great

@MoneyShot_CM Nice. I hear you with the appendix. I can appendix an Echelon w/o a light kinda ok. Sitting is definitely the uncomfortable part. Just grabbed a tisas 4.25 and was considering the werks tlr1 for appendix but don't think it's gonna work our great!

@@mattblack133 congrats on the purchase, mine is still running great. I got tired of being uncomfortable It wanted to carry my larger guns so I switched to carrying at about 3:30 and never look looked back. Sometimes if I'm in a situation where I'm getting in and out of the car and I'm going places where I can't carry I'll carry appendix because it's easier to put in place in a hurry.

Lok grips Shadow 2

Yeah it does, it was on of the reasons I choose it, so I didn't lose the rear optic. That said, I never use it to shoot, I'm not sure how accurate it is at range, never tested being self defense distances. Since then I've stopped trying to get co-witnesses that are accurate, I feel point and shoot is enough. Most times now I just get rid of the iron sights if that's an option. I ended up building two 2011s and during the testing of those guns I didn't have any sights on them and I could shoot accurately with them, so I built them with not having any irons. I know that's not for everybody though.

I've is the TLR1 keys that come with it work. Didn't remember which one, I have the tlr7 sub on there now, don't remember which one it was but one of the stock ones work.

Yeah I agree. I got a buddy that has one, there's a short video on my channel showing it in slow motion, but I'll be putting out a longer more in depth one when I get a chance, he'll let me borrow it. It was going to be on my list to get next, but honestly I built a 5.4 -inch comp gun that shoots softer than anything I've ever shot so I don't really need to spend the money on it right now, maybe someday. Don't get me wrong I'm not a master gun builder or something it's just sheer physics the length and the weight of it makes it awesome. I do love that bull attack Pro. I would likely get the four and a quarter so I can carry it

@@MoneyShot_CM yea I have the 4.25 Tac couldn’t get the Pro was sold out but just got it ported as soon as I got it. It’s awesome pistol.

Every You Tube review i have seen on the Bul Armory Tac 5 Pro, the reviewers just rave about that gun. I am like Chris, there is something about that Stacatto XC on the feel of the recoil that I just can't explain......it just feels like the softest shooting gun!! Wish the Bul Armory were available to test shoot. Next year they are coming out with that 6 ported barrel along with a comp on the end!!! That should be something even though I bet the current Tac Pro 5" shoots just as flat.

@kevinmcqueen9068 since I made this video, I had a chance to spend some time with the bul tac pro 5-in, I would take it over the XC. It's just too good and that's a hell of a lot cheaper. I haven't got the chance to shoot them back to back though and I would like to do that. I got a buddy that owns it so that won't be a problem.

ruclips.net/video/4uWTbO1uGmI/видео.htmlsi=kkALt1WvRXDsnvz6

I don't think that extended safety is that wide to cause enough trouble with any holster, it's all the way at the back of the gun and going to be pretty high up on the sweatguard, you could easily fix it with a heat gun, I doubt you would even have to fix it I think the extended safety would just bend the kydex a little. All the holsters that I use for the s2c are ones that I made because I had a slide stop thumbrest that was wide as hell. It's funny one of the ones I made I now use for my ex macro because I run the same light and it works perfectly lol.

Thanks!

Thank you for your concern. But you really need to understand something, at no time was the gun pointed at my face, the camera is nowhere near my face it's on a shelf opposite of my face about a foot and a half away, pointed down. I'm not sitting over the gun looking down. Second there may have been a loaded mag in there but at no time was there around chambered and the gun was never cocked. Have a good one

I made one. You could likely adjust one with a heat gun if you are adventurous enough, should be easy

Me too, great value. Very satisfying

Old footage, already taken care of, thanks 😂

Those two guns were not worked on by me, the owner paid someone to do them. I have heard the XC and all Staccato's fit Cheely grips easily. Don't know about the Apache. I do know on my last custom build, I use my old staccato p grip on a Cheely frame so I wouldn't scar up the real grip, or my hands lol. Both the Cheely grip and the staccato p grip for the same frame. That's all the first hand info I can give you.

I think it's a product of a country upbringing thing, I shouldn't have went with the hard D at the end, should have been "ole" lol... I don't think she'll see this though, so I'll probably be all right. She hears enough about guns from me firsthand I don't think she watches the videos 😂. Kidding... She is pretty easy going and younger than me

@@MoneyShot_CM It's not what you said, it's that 80% of divorces are filed for by women. It's a statistical certainty these days. I hope you will never have to experience it.

Thanks! It was fun, just wrapped up a second build, a 5-in with a compensator.

@@MoneyShot_CM 👍

No it definitely doesn't come with it, you got to hunt one down, it was a pain in the ass to find last year they were out of stock everywhere. But I know where to get them at

1st , congrats on the purchase, that's a great price! When I wake up more I'll reread this and try to understand it better, you have some terminology mixed up, it's hard to picture. If I can help/advise you I will.

So now I'm a little bit more awake, and after reading what you wrote I think I know what you're talking about. If you're talking about the plunger tube that has a little metal piece that interacts with the slide stop as well as another little another piece into that interacts with the safety, those can be kind of stiff. If a slide stop a very tight fit stacked on top of that strong spring it can be a little hard to push in. Are you pinning the slide back where you have no spring tension so you can move the slide into the proper area easily? On the second part I hope it's not the extractor that's causing your slide to be sluggish or get stuck, a lot of times It's the disconnector. It's common on some production guns. Have you shot the gun yet? If it is the disconnector this will break in over time you can also break it in by just racking the slide back and forth throwing some oil on it. As far as the slide stop issue that will break in over time too. Now the slide is getting hung up on the ejector, that could break itself in as well but I think that's less likely of an issue. Something like that you may need to get looked at

I've been thinking about it, my buddy got his ported and it's pretty nice.

Watchtower seems flattest, but I get the price point issue and the comps

@Aviation_Professional I think they were about equally flat, the XC was definitely softer and faster for me. My buddy leans to the watchtower like you.

When the gun arrived, everything was tight over a course of 1300 rounds I think is when that barrel started loosening up a little bit. Since then I have not really examined the lugs or the link, another user pointed out that maybe an oversized slide stop would help. Right now it doesn't affect the accuracy one bit so it's not really an issue, if it gets worse I'll probably dive in and just fix it myself. I doubt they're going to want a warranty a gun that I've done so much work on. I don't really care about the warranty on these things unless it's something serious like a slide breaking in half or some silly shit like that. I think if it comes down to it and I ever had to replace the barrel I would just do it myself and grab a threaded barrel.

My custom no question,, but if the Wilson had a red dot I think it would be right there or better. I'm almost as accurate with it with the irons.

It's all good man, we all have to watch without volume sometimes lol. Those are Lok veloce Palm swells. I run the exact same ones on my DWX as well, I'm pretty sure they're my favorite.

@@MoneyShot_CM thanks for the reply I just put mine on lay away I can't wait

@@slywolf2025 congrats man! It's worth the wait!

Got mine does your kydex scratch gun

One of my holsters was leaving a little mark on the nose, I wasn't super impressed with the coating. But it's not bad

Thanks I appreciate that! I was quite surprised at the behavior change without the light and adding that optic. It was quite settled in its stock form, I couldn't spend a lot of time on it here because the video was already too long. I managed sneak it in

@@MoneyShot_CM I believe it's why we see a lot of RUclipsrs shoot with giant lights int heir reviews. It makes them look like more competent shooters and the guns look smoother!

@@GBGuns yes it's definitely a crutch. Everyone is eeking out every bit of performance they can. A lot of channels are built around that, I'm not showcasing my shooting ability, just sharing info I wish I had. Maybe someday I'll get to that point lol. Your channel is a good mix of shooting ability and information, I watch it all the time.

@@MoneyShot_CM Thank you. I try, but it's also the result of more than 60 full days of quality training spread out over several years

@GBGuns I hear that. I stopped shooting for a number of years and fell off some from where I used to be. Not practicing for that long doesn't do you any good. I now go weekly, and can see improvement.

I love it. It feels light, nimble. The ports are feel better than aftermarket jobs. Meaning there's less flash and less concussion. I'm likely going to be getting one of these, I'll probably go the 4.25 in though. I didn't get to spend enough time with it, but I will because it belongs to a buddy of mine.