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Got a buddy in Canada that has an industrial laser engraver. He does all my engraving.

Thank You!

The cable still looks great! A couple of posts have a few spots I could sand down and touch up (mostly on the welds), but overall pretty good.

Got them from RingSupplies.Com JD is located in Canada so it's kind of a pain to get stuff shipped, but he great to work with.

Thanks!

Are you talking about what is next to the headstock of my lathe? Actually that's just a light (adjustable)..

Usually "RingSupplies.com' JD is a great guy and does all my engraving as well.

Will do!

It's called Cactus Juice from TurnTex.com (good local company right here in the Hill Country). Best resin for stabilization!

Sometimes use accelerator, but let it dry for about 5-10 minutes first, then spray it above the ring and let it 'float' down..

I use expanding mandrels on my lathe to hold the ring (have 3 different ones for different size rings).

Hi. Without a doubt, West Systems 'G Flex' 2part epoxy. Has to cure overnight but WAYY stronger than anything else I've used.

Got it from Amazon, links to all the hardware are in the description. Here's the links to the dead-heads (work great): www.amazon.com/Muzata-Invisible-Stainless-Installation-CR07/dp/B07NVGN5K4/ref=pd_ybh_a_8?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=VV2HFH8ECXP8ZDXSYYTD&th=1

Good ideas. I think I used 'E6000' to adhere the reading glasses, but like the idea of making it adjustable...

Yea, but it will BITE (got to be really carefull)...

I use 'Cactus Juice' resin for the stabilization (it's a local company here in Texas).

Cutting the blank would remove the wood (width of the say (kerf) * 2) and it then wouldn't fit all the way around the blank (or be totally round). Then when epoxying there would be 2 gaps... Breaking keeps all the wood and makes it fit good and tight around the core.

PLUS, if I just cut it and not do the break I wouldn't know if I was 'living right' the previous week.....

Thank you so much 😀

For hand-sanding where the wood is visible (like this one, an 'Overlay' ring) I hand-sand with 220 grit. When sanding an inlay (to get it to fit in a channel) I hand-sand with 80 grit. I kinda 'knock' hand sanding, but actually it's kind of therapy. Very relaxing.

Oddly enough, a larger hole. So would leave less metal in the edge to fold and then 'shrink' on the sizer (using the press). Cutting a smaller hole leaves more metal, so would have a really 'thick' ring (or more to stretch to a bigger ring size).

Thanks!

Sorry for the delay in answering (was out of town). I used to use the 5 minute epoxy but had some issues. Now use 'GFlex' from West Systems. Takes overnight to cure but MUCH stronger.

No problem! I’ve been mostly laminating wood together (haven’t tried metal cores yet). Been using JB Weld (for a little extra waterproofing) for that. Thank you!

Also, thank you for the stabilizing tutorial. I had no idea this was a thing until a friend told me about it. Going to start including that in my process once I get the equipment

Can't really say (I really don't laminate wood so not much experience with that). If you are going to get the equipment to stabilize wood make SURE you get a vacuum chamber with tempered glass lid, NOT acrylic. No Joke! My first vacuum chamber had an acrylic lid and imploded after a few uses (scared the c**p out of me).

I believe I ordered the same one you use in your video :) Thank you!

What epoxy/material do you use to attach the wood to the metal cores?

Sorry, last question: was going to experiment with ring cores. Do you know of a good place to get them?

It's 'GluBoost' (Medium CA used to repair guitars).

Under vacuum at least 2 hrs (more is better). Most important is to keep the wood submerged under the resin after releasing vacuum at least TWICE the time it was under vacuum (that gives the resin plenty of time to penetrate the wood). I like to leave it submerged (after releasing the vacuum) overnight.

@@hillcountryringsAaa thank you very much for your tutorial. It's very help me. 🤘

Brother, I'm living in Indonesia, I can't find cactus juice here. If I try an alternative, what the resin for replace of cactus juice?

@@renderboy7 I really couldn't say (Cactus Juice is all I've used). Sorry.

I use 'GluBoost' accelerant sparingly and only after letting the CA sit for about 10 minutes or so. That seems to do the trick

Thanks. It was fun making it.

Thanks!

I rarely use CA anymore for to attach the inlay (did in the beginning), but sometimes do use it on the 'breaks' for an inlay (to prevent a visible seam). I switched from 5 minute epoxy to a 24hr epoxy about a year ago and it gives a much stronger bond.

@@hillcountryrings I was wondering about that. I heard the epoxy is a bit more flexible. I use CA for the finish. But I got a bit of blooming. I thought it was too much accelerant but reading some posts it may be the opposite. Setting up too slow.

Sometimes it depends on the wood I get. I try to have the end grain on top/bottom of the ring, so I don't get end grain on the face of the ring.

Thanks!

Thanks. Yea, and better for my lungs too!

They were properly incinerated.. Actually I didn't smoke em all, but did buy the last 3 and the owner of the cigar shop said 'just take the box if you want it'..

Thanks!

Holds up really good. The finish I use is actually made for doing guitar repair. It seems to bond into the wood fibers, then sand/polish to a glass-like finish. Some ring makers use UV Epoxy but when I've tried it that gave a plastic-like feel and can peel off.

Thank you so much for the kind words. That means a lot to me!

Thanks!

Glad you liked it!

Yep, basically a titanium or tungsten 'inner ring' that the wood is bonded to. Makes the ring much less likely to snap/break than an all-wood ring.

Thank you very much!

Thank you very much!