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Those little cartridges are not cheap!

I might have to look into that, thanks for the idea!

Maybe if she actually did her job...

Your comment currently has 0👍and 1👎 it should have 1,000,000👎

I have pretty cheap equipment, yes. I am planning an upgrade in the future!

PITTSBURGH PRO Automatic Center Punch from Harbor freight. YW

It was really more just for the fun of opening up an old laptop and breaking stuff :)

Yup! Must be doing something that he is afraid of people finding out

@@liquidalloy 🥸

You are welcome, I guess?

Affixing wires to each cell set and periodically balancing them with a cell charger/balancer would be a more permanent fix. though that would require a bit more money than I am willing to spend on batteries that I hope to swap with FORGE in the next year or two. I would consider doing that if I was going to try and keep these longer than 2 years.

A 10+ year old mechanical hard drive would not be something I would want to re-use.

@@IllInformedHuman HD drives quickly fail and data is lost, but if it works, why destroy it and damage it? SSDs have a certain amount of life and when we use them up, that's the end of the drive. As for HDs, it's worth not destroying them, they're always good for something. Unless there are bad sectors or the drive loses capacity because there are unstable sectors.

@@wiedzmin3050 Old HDDs might be useful to someone, sure. I am not will to go looking for them though. I also enjoy taking things apart, I enjoy it even more when I get to take things apart and don't have to put them back together. So not only was the drive in service for a while, but it brought someone joy on it's way out :)

@@IllInformedHuman Whatever You like, I still like to use them when they work. Because these new drives that you buy are terribly weak, my new drive broke down, it had been working for 18 hours and it simply threw out bad sectors and burned 1TB of data.. Literally nothing can be done 96/100 unstable data or copied because the track is damaged.

At some point recycling and reusing is not the answer. It just creates tons of headaches. Wayyyy more fun do some PC spelunking. And as I am sure we all can agree, having fun is never pointless!

Yes you can use software to randomly write 0s and 1s over and over and over which will stop 98% of people.

@@allenrusselljr Gotta worry about that 2%

I thought the same. Like a smart use for an old laptop. Not destroying it. Pretty dumb video and a waste of still good hardware.

@@allenrusselljr This was not good hardware. Trust me, I used that thing plenty.

This was going to be e-waste, so it was going to be destroyed one way or another :P

Must be nice... Trusting others to not do anything with your discarded electronics.

​@@IllInformedHumanI'm also not paranoid. Anyone this crazy must have their browser history checked immediately 😂

I was debating just popping all the chips for the visual effect... but snapping the board just felt right. Yea, that chip is probably accessible, oh well :(

@IllInformedHuman I mean destruction on its own can be fun. Its another thing tho.

😅

None of that stuff was re-usable. The most use anyone was going to get out of it was going to be in it's destruction.

You could accomplish that with a power resistor or a programmable load. You would have to check on the cells much more frequently and likely spend more money. But you would not have to wait around for over a day like I did!

That would be an interesting mod 🤔

I am glad you like it, I felt it definitely had potential.

Always worth a shot! Perform the work on something you wouldn't mind getting burnt... just in case 😅

@@IllInformedHuman Hmmm my little module isn't turning red, LED is staying blue. Where have I gone wrong =D

Reverse the leads..... I came back in to watch the video again and was like "oh was I that foolish?" Indeed I was =D

@@jonnymiskatonic You are not making good contact with the metal, try gently rubbing the alligator clip against the metal before having it bite down. Also make sure it stays in a good position (won't slip off). It should turn red when charging, blue when nothing is detected.

@@jonnymiskatonic Good thing those tiny boards can take a little bit of foolishness :)

I actually worked mostly from the bottom. I did not take anything off, except for the 12VDC adaptor. From the top I slid in the switch, which had enough wire to enable me to solder to the old 12VDC adaptor harness underneath. I then zip tied the whole thing together and tucked it between the tank and the plastic cover. Be sure to use heat shrink if you do it that way. Hope that helps!

Darn people and their opinions! If you have a free Saturday, I would recommend going to each dealership and sitting on a Deere, Kubota and Yanmar. That way you would know for sure which one is best.

I put the name of the charger I used in the description of the video. They can be found on Amazon, same with the alligator clips. Happy hacking!

I did not have the receipt :( I will likely file it away when I get their newer tab-less cells.

Sorry for late reply. I selected black masking on SEEED studio with a custom PCB. Though I am sure you can select black masking on a slew of other Custom PCB sites.

But it is so much fun to do this yourself! And cheaper!

@@IllInformedHumanand faster! 😅

Random Amazon plow. I cannot recall the brand and it is unlabeled

At this point, I might be willing to try the knockoffs... maybe just to open them up and see how they were constructed.

Got to get the full value out of those batteries, wither they like it or not!

Thank you! I was getting tired of manhandling the auger every time I wanted to use it :)

A ton of those achievements were a pain to obtain as you likely say ;)

Just a little bit... Might have to play around in the save files more in FS25 😈

No it was a single battery cell charger (TP4056). Something that can monitor the voltage of a cell and auto stop charging. A phone charger would not do that, unfortunately.

Maybe, if you have a trickle charge mode? Still fairly unlikely :(

@IllInformedHuman im not sure wat that means but ima assume I don't have that lol I just know it's a 5amp charger. But thanks for the reply I appreciate it 🙏

@@Mitch_Sti if that charger draws 5Amps at 120 VAC, then it needs 600 Watts! This thing can only accommodate 175 Watts.

@@IllInformedHuman dang good to know, thanks.

I found that out really quick! I stopped after getting the four boards I needed for a specific project. I then switched to splitting the trees into firewood instead, which is a LOT more fun than trying to mill them 😀

If you keep tools longer than a few years, those "creature comforts" make a HUGE difference. The most expensive option will stand the test of time IMO. But sure, you could get by with a cheapie. Watching both devices melt solder would have done nothing to show the differences in the products as they both heat up to the temperature needed to do that task. I don't know what you expected to gleam from seeing that happen... As the professionals know, most pots of tinning material are made of molten tin, with a zinc chloride flux. Simply calling it flux is inaccurate. And I hope you took your heart medication after watching this video as it appears to have stressed you out! If my review was that horrid, I would suggest filming your own conclusions. Thanks for watching non-the-less.

@@IllInformedHuman Regarding the tinning material vs solder & flux matter, I mean, we could go back & forth on that all day, but I'll admit, I was being a bit overly pedantic on honestly trivial minutia, so fair enough. point taken. Regarding the more salient criticism of the video though, I think you're missing the point of what I'm getting at, & in all fairness, perhaps I could have done a better job at communicating it. When I'm referring to things like creature comforts, for example, I mean things like how well the wire sheathing holds up to potential burns. I mean, sure, more durability is nice to have, but it's fairly inconsequential, especially if your using proper cable management practice to minimize excess slack of the cable, as doing so not only keeps the cable clear of the tip of the iron, but also minimizes the risk of things like bumping, unexpected wiggling or accidentally stepping on or otherwise disturbing the cable could cause the iron to jerk or wiggle in your hand, which you don't want in such precision work. What I mean by more valuable data is things like the tips themselves, for example. I mean you said the 2 had similar tips, but weren't exchangeable & that the cheaper one didn't come with a tip holder, while the Weller did. Again, nice to have creature comforts, but doesn't really give insight to the more work centric use cases. What is the availability of tips? What's the variety of tips? How well do they hold up under use before they start breaking down? How accurate is the actual temp vs the reported temp? How granular is the temp control? How consistent is the temp? how high & how low can it go? These are more use case specific details that I think are more salient because, I mean if you're just tinning & soldering together splices of decent gauge wire, heck, any soldering iron would do the trick, but if say for example, you're doing component level work on electronics, there's a lot more to account for. In that same regard, when working with surface mount components, sure a flat chisel tip could usually get the job done, just like a handsaw would get the job of carving a turkey done. But a curved conical tip would certainly be a much better tool for it. Knowing the consistency of the heat output helps you know whether or not you'd have to worry about whether that particular iron is going to reliably do the job of soldering or de-soldering the component, or if it's going to cook the good components or scorch the board or damage the solder pads due to an unexpected spike in temp due to faulty power regulation. Knowing the quality & durability of the tips, plus the availability of them helps to know if replacement tips are readily available & ho frequently they might need replacing. Knowing the range of the heat output is also important to A, help ensure that you don't destroy what you're trying to repair by frying it, but also B, in knowing what solder options are available, such as whether it can sustain the heat needed for lead free solder, etc... For comparison, I saw a video of a gentleman doing a side by side comparison of 2 hot air stations. Both were identical, except for in 1 very important regard. The air pressure of 1 was helped along by a fan in the hand held unit itself, while the other used forced air pressure traveling down the hose from the unit's base station. This is an important key distinction in functionality, because while they both can get the job done of de-soldering surface mount components, one does the same job much faster, due to the differences in the heated air pressure delivery. From this, it can also be gleaned that if, for example, you were trying to re-ball a BGA chip with a stencil & solder paste, with one unit, you'd have little issue, while with the other, you're gonna have a bad time. Anyway, I wasn't trying to be mean or anything, even though I was a bit snarky, I'm just saying I think that these details & areas of focus that are more salient to actual use cases are likely of more important to most viewers than things like the weight of the base station. I mean, I can't speak for others, but regarding the weight, if the cheaper one fulfilled adequately all the other needs, ok, slap some velcro or solid double sided tape on it & the table & problem solved. Non issue. I mean, for example, Let's say I had a bricked laptop that doesn't boot anymore due to corrupted or broken BIOS right? & let's say I had an identical, dead donor motherboard that had good BIOS chips on it, & I wanted to replace the bad bios chips on the otherwise perfectly fine motherboard with the ones from the donor board, giving me a fully functional laptop again. I'm not going to care about whether or not I'd have to 3d print a holder for the solder tips to keep them neat & tidy, I'd care about if it has the right tips & the whole unit performs consistently & reliably enough for me to confidently do the job I need it to do with the highest possible rate of success & ease. does that make more sense?

@@demitriuspandi9736 That does make more sense. At the time I filmed this, I just filmed the differences that I thought were interesting. I had just upgraded my soldering station which is why I had the two. I was excited to show off my new toy and didn't really storyboard or think to long on this video. My old system did great for what I was using it for, the only complaint I had against it was the quality of the materials, especially the permanently affixed cable that kept getting tangled! Which is why I focused on the material quality. If I was to shoot this video again, (I cannot since I threw the old soldering station away) I would add a soldering section where I compare the advertised tip temp to the actual. And how well it held the temp while soldering different scenarios. As well as have gone into more depth about tip quality. Maybe when I upgrade my Weller and do the comparison then :) Though, you have inspired me to think about making a "what to look for in a soldering station" video, using your points. And of course, I can appreciate a bit of "snark" It keeps the comments section interesting. Thank you for the feedback!

Yea, at this point I would recommend staying away from the 8Ah and 12Ah unless you plan on using them professionally and plan to swap them every two years anyway.

Yep all of my bigger ones have got this problem.

Milwaukee’s M12 and M18 battery systems are widely criticized for issues like battery failure, compatibility issues across tools and chargers, complicated troubleshooting, and battery warranties much shorter than their tool warranties. Considering how complicated and potentially dangerous the fixes are, it’s unsurprising Milwaukee plays dumb and lets these complicated and potentially dangerous fixes pile up on RUclips. Will you trust Milwaukee when you buy your next tool or battery?

@ I think it’s more of a lithium battery issue they had more issues than I nicad used to. A rechargeable battery only gets so many cycles. which is fine I don’t think the issue is Milwaukee I think it’s the cost of them. The legit oem 12 amp batteries are like a buck 50. if they were $30 would any of you guys care as much or 40 for that matter. I have a lot of M 18 tools some of them are very good others their functional and tough I have switched to DeWalt and find their tools to be higher grade not really sure about the batteries yet because I haven’t been on the platform long enough but pretty much every tool I pick up is a higher grade tool than what the m18 line has.

@@LM-ii6fd I am going to try out their new forge when I finally need to replace my current high amp battery. Depending on how well they hold up will determine if I stay with Milwaukee.

Sounds like the voltage drops drastically when a load is applied. Which means your cells are likely too far gone to be recovered.

Sure!

There is a good change those were not authentic brady products. :(

Brady has a pretty good customer service dept. I would start there as it could be any number of issues.

I did not think this inverter would last long with daily or even weekly use (Thanks for confirming). In leu of a passive heat sink they threw an itsy bitsy fan in there, likely to make it compact. I think it is less of the smart chips going dumb and more that they decide to quiet quit.