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Ooof! Yeah, I can't imagine that is any fun!🫤

Oh man, sorry hear about the busted knuckles! I truly appreciate you taking a moment to post a comment I still have this car and when I think back to when I made this video, I wasn't quite ready (mentally & mechanically) to fully acknowledge how bad the rust got back there and what future issues I would run into and need to address.😂 I just re-watched the entire video and realized, man I say "basically" a lot!😂 I'm glad this may have helped you in any way. That was the idea. If it weren't for others before me, I would have moved on from this car long ago!

@@scottwaterman4067 The output flange from the transmission is connected to the drive shaft by a part called a "guibo". That part is also known as a flex disc. Is that what you were referring to?

Now you tell me!? 😂. I will definitely consider it the next time this transmission comes out!👍

@@VNEMUStakes like 10 minutes to replace with the trans still in the car dude

Wait, I didn't need to completely remove the transmission to this!? 😂😂😂✌️ @@E46TY

What transmission is this?

@@j2shiestyy It's a 5 speed, Getrag 250G.

Just a dab of Redline 75w90 GL-5 Oil.👍

@@VNEMUS thanks for the reply!

P0444 code was cleared after EVAP Purge Control Valve replacement and CEL did not come back. I did not have any of the symptoms you describe though. Sounds like something else is going on.

Looking back at this repair, I probably should have tried the fire wrench method as you did!👍 Last year, I completely dropped the rear subframe to replace all the corroded rear hard line brake lines up to the master cylinder and replaced the subframe & differential bushings, fully inspected for subframe cracks (none found) and cleaned things up a bit. Then early this year, I manual swapped this car. Sort of wish I videoed some of that. Plenty of others that already have, I guess. Oh well! It's hard to believe these cars are over 20 years old now! Thanks for commenting! 🙂

​@@VNEMUS Nice job!! i need to drop my subframe too, there is a clunking noise still here after changing the diff bushing and when i jack the car from the subframe it move, so the bushings are TOOOAST, mine is manual too MT5 big diff 3.38. But mine is my daily driver so i can't remove the subframe... i need to buy an other car like a little toyota or some shit to drive when i do big jobs on the car

Oh, yeah, if it's your primary daily driver, that definitely makes it harder to dig into the bigger jobs. If you had a shop do the work, it would be held up at least 1-2 days, nevermind the labor cost to do this work. These cars aren't extremely difficult to work on, mainly due to all the information available. Most of the time it's just having the space and tools, finding the time to do all the work and trying to justify the cost of the parts to maintain. The manual swap made no financial sense for me to do, but always wanted to do it and extremely happy I did. I swapped out my 3.38 for a 2.93 so it would be more highway friendly driving, but it's kind of a dog compared to newer vehicles. Still way more fun to drive!😊

@@VNEMUS that’s why we love e46s they are covered with our DNA, blood 🩸 & sweat 😓. With all the hours of work, the hate/love relationships, they are OUR car, not just an other car that you buy and everything is fine 😂

Yeah, I sometimes forget that I'm tracking a car that's over 20 years old and that if I damage or need to replace certain parts they are certainly not as readily available as they used to be 10 to 15 years ago. I had a little bit of trouble finding a good used IRS axle and paid a decent amount for it. I was back at Watkins Glen again this year and no issues this time!😅. Thanks for commenting!😊

No driveability issues that I recall, just the CEL and corresponding P0444 Code.

@@VNEMUS Mhm. I have a rough idle after a warm start and I can't figure out where it comes from. No codes... Replaced VANOS solenoids, both DISA valves, plugs and coils, VCG, VALVETRONIC motor gasket, eccentric shaft sensor gasket, OFHG, still no improvement on that regard. Any clues?

@@nvl2691 You definitely hit on the main common culprits for rough idle on the N/51/N52! Assuming you replaced with all good quality OEM parts, the only thing I don't see you mention is whether you have the latest Firmware Update for your MSV70 DME. Believe it or not, that could be the final piece to your rough idle puzzle. Good luck!

@@VNEMUS Thanks! All parts replaced with either genuine BMW, Pierburg or Elring. Only quality parts. When was this software update released? My car is a 2006 and was serviced at BMW until around 2014ish.

@@nvl2691 I'm not sure when the latest Firmware release was but since you have the service history to 2014, I suggest you call a local BMW Dealer and give them your VIN and they should be able to confirm if you have the latest update.

When the deal goes bad, it starts weeping oil, which can become worse over time and leak down to the tail shaft area. It's just good to replace preventatively when the transmission is out of the car, like for a new clutch or 100k miles.

​@@VNEMUS any link where you buy the seal? Or.is there a complete kit

😂😂😂

I had no "major" cooling mods on this stock 4V non-supercharged motor. I mainly track this car in the Northest, but on hot track days, I'll definitely see coolant temps around 210 degrees after 15-20 minute sessions and turning on the heat helps a little. Otherwise, that being said, I had a timing (Primary Cam Sprocket bolt on passenger side) failure on track the following day after this video. There was valve to piston contact. I ended up getting another identical (used) motor, but before the swap, I replaced all the timing components (primary & secondary sprockets, chains, tensioners & guides) a new oil pump and new timing cover gasket. For this "refreshed" motor I added the "Head Cooling Mod" that connects the coolant flow between the 2 heads on the back of the cylinder heads. I also added a Canton Road Race oil pan with increased oil capacity and a bung for an oil temp sensor. I will get some oil temps on track and determine if I want to add a remote oil cooler with a thermal activation switch (which I probably will). I still have stock radiator but may add a larger 3 row Fluidyne Aluminum radiator at some point. I also have a lower temp 170 degree aftermarket t-stat. The car is fun to track. You should definitely do it!

@@VNEMUS did you ever get the oil temps and if so, what were they? I started tracking my 01 Cobra last year and that's one thing that worries me, especially in summer.

@@cstew1349 yes, I installed an oil temp sender in my Canton Road Race pan and the highest readings I saw were 220 degrees after a 20 minute session. It's an HPDE car, so usually never out on track more than 25-30 minutes at a time. Unless I was tracking more often in the south I don't see a need for an aftermarket oil cooler set up. Mobil 1 5w30 Oil & filter changes after every 2-3 track days and trying not to wind out and/or hang out at the top of 3rd or 4th gear at more than 6500 Rpms for too long and short shifting has been my plan since replacing the motor.

@@VNEMUS hey that's not bad temps at all. What coolant temps were you at when oil was peaking at 220? Same oil I run and same thoughts on frequency. Diff temps is another thing I worry about, but plan to change that out periodically, too.

@@vafan13 the coolant temps would get to 215-ish as well. I've had the stock radiator too, so I imagine a larger capacity Fluidyne or Mishimoto might help some. I have a 170 degree t-stat. For the diff, many years ago, I was boiling over (misting out the vent tube) until I added a Mocal oil pump and oil cooler back in 2010. I had someone modify my stock diff cover with bungs for oil draw and return AN fittings and lines. Diff temps haven't gone beyond 190 since, plus now draining the the diff is easier with the oil draw bung fitting. :)

Cool! I see you're from AZ area. The next day on track after this video, the bolt that secures the primary cam sprocket on the driver's side broke and valves made contact with pistons. I just replaced the motor with another 01' Cobra stock motor. I just watched your Dyno video with stage 2 cams and LTs and I gotta say I sort of regret not doing the same when I just put the motor in. Maybe I'll do that on my old motor rebuild. Anyway, thanks for the comment. I'll check out more of your channel videos!

Congrats!

@@tribe_called_oh Hey Gene O! I wish! I'm running my 2001 Mustang Cobra in This video. This was a friend's in-car footage of his GT3 RS. What a machine! Will I see you at The Glen 10/22-10/24 with HOD?

Good luck!. Let me know how it goes!

@@VNEMUS Whoops sorry I forgot to update this! Sanded the subframe as much as I could but it was very hard to get to. In the end, I cut off the metal bushing on the lever-end of the cable, and fed the cable through the subframe without it. Then took the old bushing and drilled it out to just fit over the threads on the cable, and put it on after the subframe. It's all back together and now works.

@@timothyer2447 Good stuff! Glad to hear. Thanks for the update!

Best of luck!

Yep I had to do all the hard lines straight from the abs to each corner by myself! It was a week long job took quite a while but I made sure to take my time on every bend and literally got them looking exactly like oem all in original clips and everything looks mint :) I highly recommend Nickle copper brake lines they’ll outlast the car probably compared to this shitty metal ones from bmw

​@@the46guide94Yup, same here 2 years ago. At that time I had completely dropped the rear independent suspension and I replaced The rusted cradle and replaced all the subframe in differential bushings bushings. The rear hard brake lines were so bad especially up above the subframe cradle and where the tighter bends meet the rubber lines to the calipers. I lowered the fuel tank and removed both rear hard lines from the ABS and then I used those as templates to bend up the brand new lines, taping them to each other as I went along and it worked out perfectly. I'm so glad I did that. I can't even imagine how much it would have cost to have an independent shop do all of that labor!

The car spent it's early years ungaraged near the ocean plus New England winters, salted roads.

結城楓太 crashes happen all the time on track especially in racing. You have no idea what you’re talking about.

Glyn Churchman - Yes, that is correct in HOD's group D. Open passing, being predictable and passing in corners is encouraged.

And to clarify, I received a response from HOD about this: "Group D is a fairly simple concept, and folks either "get it" or they don't. It is completely unrestricted, meaning there are no "passing zones" and point-by's are not required. We only ask that you do not contest corners with drivers you are not familiar with. Common sense (which is really not so common) prevails at all times. This group has historically had zero complaints or issues, and this is because of the following hard requirements: Lap times and speed DO NOT MATTER. Awareness and temperament DO matter! We are gentlemen and ladies, and I define this group as "MY friends driving together." "

Glyn Churchman, thanks for clarifying HOD's rules for Group D. Having run HPDE's with many different clubs over the past 10+ years, this concept is definitely not the norm, so I can understand your skeptism. In addition to their response above, the Group D Leader would also emphasize another rule in the morning Group D Driver's Meeting and that was "Don't Be A Dick!". I wish more Clubs would/could also adopt this philosophy. Cheers!

Gly that is the most ridiculous thing that you went to HOD and asked. This is another instructor using my car. I am an instructor with SCDA, HOD and Chin Motorsports. If you have an issue with any of other videos you are more than welcome to ask us instead of going to the organizer. Craig's answer should have sufficed. I saw you spin out at Club Motorsports on one of the first sessions of the SCDA event. So, I don't think you are one to start lecturing or checking up on instructors. Are we clear about that?

BMWs not Mustang.

I'll be at Thompson on 5/15/17.

Thank you Antione. You too! We had some fun in our sessions both days!