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I’ll checkout the pulse defender never head of it. Thanks

I use an extern BEC incase of esc failure. Helped save the heli this time. I was able to get it right side up before stalling.

No I don’t, 1700 is to high for that. That being said 6s rpm would be more like 1000rpm.

@@Zac6361 thanks for your answer

Randy Thanks, I re did the wiring the pull-up resistor had snapped for temerity. Made sure to protect it better this time. I’m running a 160HV now and flies great. The 120 may not have been the issue, but I did not want to risk it since I may have actually snapped the resistor after the crash fiddling with the esc.

@@Zac6361 I always hear these rules of thumb when sizing ESC: 120amp=550; 135amp=600; 160-200amp = 700; That is a nice heli. I am considering one of these for my first 700 next year.

@@soupnazi33 nice this is my first 700. 120 used to be standard now 160-200 is since some people want to run 2200 rpm and 14 pitch etc. Get 160 with fan. It runs very cool for me. I haven’t gone above 2050rpm yet. But 2200rpm would give me 20% headroom on the 160. Ideally you want 20-25% headroom at a minimum.

@@Zac6361 Nice. I'll probably be getting the YGE 205A as they are my preferred brand and don't have a HV model in the 160 range (jumps from 135 to 205). I'll probably be running around 2000 to 2100 headspeed. I was watching a freddy can fly video of him building this model and he was talking something about pinning the tail boom but I cannot find that step in the actual manual. Did you have to pin the tail boom (ie: put holes in it with some sort of metal pins)?

CurazyHeart this was carbon. I did break a carbon one after the electronics failed and feel out of sky. Not sure the titanium would have done better.

@@Zac6361 Board failure?

CurazyHeart my board keeps resetting randomly another follower recommended checking the electric connections so I need to do that. Actually this is the second board that I’ve had the problem. I need to get the mcpx back flying again. Been flying the 550 lately.

TheToymanbb not bad same here I had the tail come out on a crash and hit the blades making a chip. I made a custom way the attach the canopy I’ll have to make a video showing it. It helps make taking it on and off easier. Do you ever have trouble with the main board resetting continually before takeoff? Mine keeps doing this. Fell out of the ski once even. Maybe the battery is bad or something.

@@Zac6361 I did use some good clear tape to attach the back of the main body to where it meets the tail and that makes it a lot more rigid and very simple to do without adding weight. Yes my original board started doing that then it would have trouble binding with the transmitter and Horizon replaced it under warranty and I used the bad board until I crashed it blowing out the tail FET or tail motor then I had to choice but to swap it out and my second board has had no issues with well over 200 packs on it. I've noticed I've had to resolder wires out of 3 of my batterys at the plug because it wouldn't make contact and keep resetting the board. Check the wires for one that have worn out and broken connection.

If you pull lightly one each of the 3 individual wires behind the plug you'll notice that one of them will have some stretch to it indicating the bad connection.

I've had other small issues with it like the servo shakes but my fix is a small shot of break cleaner in the servo where the brushes and contacts are. That fixes it instantly without taking anything apart and lasts for hours of flight time. The other small issue I've had is sometimes when flying in my house I'll fly in stability mode because of small spaces and sometimes the gyros go nuts for a minute then it fixes itself and it happens out of the blue for no reason then it works great for hours then goes through the gyro hissy phase again.

abdon3000 I do find myself using more throttle in real life. Now most of the sim models have way more power(less bog) and higher head speed to match newer models. So I think that is the issue. I’m only running 1950 here. It floats a lot more at 2250 or 2400. Try turning down the head speed on the sim.

thank you! Yes it was short lived. So if I crash I have to upgrade to a new heli unfortunately(lots of money/not many parts around). Favorite color scheme hands down of the Trex 550 line up.

TheToymanbb it’s very strong though I don’t think it increases durability since the it sits on the tail rod. So the carbon rod or frame are still week point. Worth the extra visibility.

@@Zac6361 it looks a lot more visible, I do like the Microheli bodies, swashes, grips, shafts and one way main gear sets. I've got like 100-150 flights on mine now and just replaced the stock frame and third tail boom. Nice bird to fly in the house and outside even in a small yard. I liked it so much I bought 2 more for backup

This video talks through the components: ruclips.net/video/TsM1figtt4c/видео.html

This video explaining the hardware/design should help. Let me know if you still have any questions. ruclips.net/video/TsM1figtt4c/видео.html

brother can u tell me can i use python in arduino ? and if i use ultrasonic sensor what problem or advantage i will have

Not easily, I think it has been done. The Arduino generally is less powerful, so running the high level python language will slow it down. Arduino uses C/C++ functions. Sonar sensors can be extremely noisy, much more so than the IR sensors. You wont get as accurate distance measurements. Lasers range finders are the ideal option, but expensive.

Bob Loesch, good idea. I might annotate it in, but for now here is the list. A Blue B Red C Red D Red E Purple F Purple G Red H Purple

Great, thanks Zac.

Wait one??? Yellow??? the chart doesn't list a yellow, only purple, flashing red, red, flashing blue and blue. Do you mean flashing red?

Just pulled it out of the case and checked. Your are right, I edited the last posts errors. Hope that helps. Now I need to go fly the little guy again.

This helps alot. I'm new to MB.