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“lol tighten nut done… - Anycubic” like WTF Anycubic? Where are directions? This video is pointless

After doing this, my printer went crazy and got even worse than before

I had to replace the LCD, and I was so careful. I got it installed, now the touch screen won't display. I ordered a new screen from the Anycubic website, still haven't resolved the issue.

My 3d printer is not printing what I do

Not working 30timw releval and still leveling invalid and failed

so trying to change the motor (not that i can find one on your website, not even listed) but my M5s doesnt have the screws in the in the base plate (timestamp 1:30) whats the go there???

Your product is a POS. Out of the box it's done nothing but fail prints. I've troubleshot it for a god damn month. DO NOT BUY.

My blue bowden tube melted inside, so no amount of "unscrewing" works. Plus, I disassembled it and removed the tube, but part of it stuck into the nozzle so I can't replace it to put it back together. Tips anyone?

Thank god for this video, the instructions were bad to say the least.

One of the worst how to assembly videos I have ever seen. Perhaps slowing down and narrating what your doing would help.

Question is how do you know how tight it’s meant to be.

Very good guide. I wish this was explained better in the manual. I didn't realize any leveling was necessary and I've changed FEP film multiple times and applied a magnetic spring steel platform, all without leveling. I haven't had any issues either, so I guess the auto-leveling system must work pretty well.

does it matter how long the nozzle has to be? Can it be really short or does it have to be that exact size

I had to replace a screen not working, following videos like this one. Now the touch screen is blank and I don't even know if the new LCD is working.

Am I the only one who noticed that 3 swipe of the glass left it all fogged up by the time they finished. Please clean it thoroughly with glass/screen cleaner. May not heavily impact print quality but its not that hard to do it the right way lol

U have .5-1mm and under it says .51mm wich is it now

I want the direct access to the driver, you must get the software accessible for your clients... I don't want to need a wifi station in my printer place... is unstable, please give a REAL support. That's not much to ask...

Why skip the part where you take the LCD cable off the connector??? Every thread i see about replacing this screen involves damaging the connector trying to get the cable off.

For those watching this video, know that it is not worth changing the ribbon cable, do a direct installation, there are two pins that you will have to bend on the motherboard to do this. The ribbon will cause problems again because this type of cable was not designed to deal with something complex like the temperature of a 3D printer, it is commonly used in data transmission on older TVs, but in fact it is not worth the change .

Thanks Anycubic that really helped

Is it possible to connect the printer to a access point ? I said that because the printer is on my sublevel. So I can connect directly my phone on it. I have more access point with vlan. So I think create a specific vlan spread multiple access point. Like that I can connect from my kitchen my phone and I can check the print

What is the part number????

How to move the print head up?

I finally took the plunge and fitted my new LCD screen at the weekend as well as a new FEP sheet. I had to do another plate levelling, Hoping this is going to last more than 6 months and 10 prints

I got new motherboard for my kobra 2 max. How do i install the program on it? It said on the webshop that it is delivered without program. Where can i manually download the firmware version i want? I think the latest version of it has issues with autoleveling, so i dont want the newest firmware on it 🤔

Why a pair of pliers. The most disgusting tool if you want to damage the you are gripping. It should have been a spanner or an adjustable spanner. Don't use pliers.

Hola, una duda la bomba para la resina funciona y a la vez no, si se mueve pero no llena ni vacía el tanque, alguna sugerencia ??

Video is too slow. Make it faster so that we all can assemble by ourselves so easily 😏

is because i never will buy things by Anycubic is a bad joke sell printer in 2022 has not a filament break sensor my old I3 Mega has them and is much more older.

What should i do when i accidentally stripped an M2 screw? How do i get it out now?

So this video is missing a KEY step!. I had the typical FEP leakage issue and after trying my hardest to get the resin off the screen and only ending up scratching it up, I decided to replace it. I found a replacement part (which is actually for the 6Ks so I have to send it back) and starting to follow this video. They lifted the screen up with ease in the video. Mine did not lift up at all, not a budge. I tried to apply some force and the thing broke. Luckily, I was wearing gloves or I could have cut myself on the broken glass. Use a heat gun to get it up. Oddly enough, the video does not show removing the glass, so hopefully the kit I bought comes with it...

it doesn't work as it should, I have to adjust my offset by -2.05 even though the sensor and bed are the same height

What if I just need to replace the blue PTFE tube?

There's a few steps missing here. Firstly it would've been nice to know you'll need a spudger or another flat, thin tool to pop the hidden clips around the seam of the cover at 00:14 because it does not come off effortlessly as show here. If you try to just pull it off as shown in the video you'll likely break the clips. Secondly when you go to unplug the cables from the motherboard they're glued together with a tough, rubbery red adhesive along one side (you can see some of it on the plugs opposite of the ones focused on here.) The adhesive will come off but will take some effort. And thirdly there's a rubbery sort of adhesive pad being the touchscreen ribbon cable. The cable isn't stuck to it but it WILL stop the cable from moving so you'll have to clear it when reinstalling the cable, but the clearance is tight there. Afterwards you can press the cable back against the rubbery pad to secure it before closing the cover up.

cant seem to find the kobra 2 main board anywhere to buy it

Instead of being able to mail a brand new product that doesn’t work back for them to work on, they send you a motherboard that they expect you to install. Anycubic is terrible.

thanks, but you could at least show the white plugs how it goes with labels !

how did you make that transparent protective film glued without any bubbles? Mine one instantly attracted dust and some fibers from that tiny microfiber cloth. 😖 In addition, that microfiber had some dust already as it scratched the screen a bit. Why not to add that protective film on factory?

Followed the instructions, they were clear and the printer seems to work fine after a replacement. A tip, the FPC cable is held to the mobo and old screen by a black lever that runs along the length of the connector, you need to lift this lever up to release the FPC cable. This is a common thing for this type of cable, Googling or searching RUclips will help you find a video of how to do it if you're not familiar with these cables like me. I had almost 900 hours print time with this printer when my screen went, according to the app. I don't know if that is a good, bad or average lifespan for a screen, I'm just posting my experience. The symptoms of my original broken screen were dark, blotchy sections appearing that looks like large black water droplets under the panel surface. I am 100% sure this was not just spilled resin cured on top, I saw loads of images online of these dead pixels, with everyone recommending replacement. The screen was also under a screen protector and was smooth to the touch. The panels themselves are wafer thin, it isn't like you can get resin "inside" the panel unless you're really trying! If your prints are coming out with gashes in, or just entire sections that look like they've failed to print and resin stuck to the FEP in a "hollow circle" pattern, check the screen health by running a 10 second exposure. You'll easily notice if your screen has issues.

If you think print head screws have disappeared into thin air after they fall out, it turns out the print head rail is magnetic so they just are stuck to the rail behind the print head

Thanks for the info on how to replace the motherboard. However, Anycubic Support sent me this video as assistance to clean the front Touch Screen. Does anyone have instructions on how to remove/replace the front Touch Screen on the Mono X 6Ks?

Yea where is this file? its not always included and their doesn't seem to be any version of it anywhere.

I am in need of the cover the fans sit in. Is there a part # that you know of? Thanks, Pete

printer was great til shit had to be fixed than everything about the printer goes to hell faster than the sinner at the brothal

It must be on TF card, for FULL User Guide!

The instructions say that tubes need to be installed to the second black ring. This video doesn’t show that. The video and instructions disagree on several points.

Where to find another trinagular anti backlash nut replacement? I think mine is damaged, because if I remove it, the motor with the screw rotates without any problems. With the nut on, it stucks.

@anycubic3d My camera didn't come with a box around the camera to fit into a bracket, It's just a camera on a small circuit board!

What is meant by ‘lock the screws’ tip at 0:51 sec?

What is the DC DC regulator (SO8) name that is used in this board. Mine is burned and i cant see the code