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@@hornet224 Thanks for checking it out and for the kind words. I'm glad you found it helpful.

@feliciagreen7279 thanks for commenting. That is definitely an option. I would consider that "refreshing" the cabinets vs "refinishing", where you simply clean and add back some of the faded luster with fresh poly/varnish. Hardware changes can make a big difference too! It would be a somewhat easier project than painting, but still time consuming to do correctly. We have a short on our page where we did that. Also re-stained some light spots

@feliciagreen7279 Here's the thing...if you are unsure...I wouldn't paint the cabinets because you really can't go back. But I have to say, I've probably painted 100+ cabinets over the years and it's been a game changer every time.

@@braunspaintingnetworkright , so I guess for now I’ll just clean then and change the hardware and maybe just paint the island since that’s not the real oak wood. Thanks I wish I can show you a picture of my cabinets

@feliciagreen7279 feel free to send a Pic to Steve@braunspainting.com and I could reply with my thoughts

@alabamabarbie8357 Sorry for your trouble! I'd try a powered detail sander if possible to see how that goes as far as removing it or at least knocking it down and sanding to a resilient edge. Gel-based strippers will work, but that's a tough job.

@@alabamabarbie8357 Thanks for watching and good luck

@@raymond.mcdannell6317 Thanks for watching and for the nice comment!

That's a good question! The bench (hearth) wasn't quite black but definitely very soiled. Yes, we did end up whitewashing it in a very similar fashion, although it wasn't as porous as the stone and because it had more imperfections (from being soiled/stained), we did not rag off afterward to allow it to be a bit more opaque and drown out any remaining stains. We were able to pull out a lot of the discoloration with a spray cleaner (think it was Krud Kutter), a stiff bristled brush, and luke warm water. Between that and the white wash brushed on, any remaining staining was very minor. Another alternative is to simply paint the hearth solid color and that would be a non-factor, that can definitely look good as well, would recommend a good primer/sealer first if you are going to paint it solid. Also, you could use some other agents to clean like vinegar, baking soda, or something like Oxi Clean or a different cleaner meant for masonry. I don't like working with TSP, especially indoors.

I'm still not entirely sure how to deal with painting over some of the paint that has a glossy (semi glossy?) finish. Should I use TSP? Or, try to manually scuff it (with scotch brite pads)? Or???

@Martykep Working with TSP isn't necessary, in my opinion. Most older exterior paint has often dulled over time due to weathering so as long as it's been cleaned and any looseness has been scraped/sanded, you generally don't have to sand the entire previously painted surfaces, like you would want to for glossier interior trim, for example. With exterior wood, not only has it been weathered but it is often more rough-cut or milled differently and heavier texture makes it easier to bond too. There is also so much surface area outside that it may seem impractical to scuff sand the whole house. That said, scuff sanding is never a bad thing unless you sand so much you damage the wood. If you have glossier wood outside that is still slick to the touch and very smooth, you can't go wrong scuff sanding it. (Make sure you are aware of lead paint status). Another option is using an exterior grade bonding primer that can be applied without sanding, then coat over that with the paint. You can tint many primers close to the paint color as well to make it easier for the paint to cover.

@Martykep Thanks for watching and for your follow-up question

@Martykep that was a long reply, lol, I hope it was helpful. To answer another part of your question, you can manually scuff sand with a sanding block (sponge) or pad, or even sand paper. Small electric detail sanders with fine grit work well too if you have one. You don't need to strip the paint off if it's bonded well to the wood below. The goal is to simply create some surface scratches and abrasion that allow for the paint to grab onto the surface better than it would a slick surface.

@@braunspaintingnetwork Thanks for your reply! I will use your advice!

@fangyuli2011 You can alter the appearance by adding another coat and making it look "brighter," by drowning out any darker colors underneath. That said, you also add more opacity and less of the brick will show through. You could also use a brighter color, like stark white, to begin with.

@islandgirrrl1 Thanks for watching the video, I'm glad you found it helpful. We like to use the 50 Year, Quick2Coat caulk from AllPro which is very durable and can be coated with paint in 30 minutes. A other great option is Sherwin Williams 1050 quick dry caulk. You can google both and they should pull right up.

Some other things with caulk, is just make sure it says acrylic latex, that its exterior grade (if working outside), and make sure it's paintable. They also offer them in different colors, so if you are painting darker colors for example, use a color that is closer to your paint vs a white caulk because it will be easier to cover up.

@@islandgirrrl1 www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/1050-quick-dry-siliconized-acrylic-latex-caulk

@@braunspaintingnetwork Thanks very much for your recommendations!

@@dianelondon1890 Thanks for those nice words and for watching the video. It was a fun project to work on.

@beccibaby10 Good for you! Have fun and I'm sure it will come out great! Let us know how it goes.

Ha, that's a new one. I can kinda see that at first glance

@thomasarchibold6678 Yes, you wouldn't want to sand (at least power sand) the ridged cedar shakes, as you are correct, you will damaged the ridges. That is the toughest material to prep. Best practice there is to use a small flexible scraper, and a wire brush combo to knock off any loose/flaking paint, amd you can skip the sanding in that case. You can try some manual scuff sanding with a block or paper for trouble areas, but thatvis cumbersome with the ridges. Scrape/brush and then use a great primer to spot prime Amy area with raw wood

@thomasarchibold6678 Also, are you referring to caulking the joints of the cedar shakes where they meet? Or do you also have horizontal clap board? You dont want to caulk between all those shakes...if gaps are that large you honestly need to consider replacement of the shake

@@braunspaintingnetwork Thanks for the reply! I've replied here twice, but it seems it gets removed - maybe because I posted a link to a photo of the siding on Google Drive. Yes, I am referring to the vertical gaps between adjacent shakes. I asked if I should scuff sand, caulk the larger gaps, spot prime, then paint, or not caulk the gaps, scuff sand, prime everything, and then paint? It would be better if I could post a photo...

@thomasarchibold6678 Can't say about the other posts, must be a RUclips policy on removing those, I didn't see them. Regarding those vertical seams between the shakes, those are not suppossed to be caulked. The butt joints in the video was referring to horizontal, clapboard style cedar siding where there are a handful of butt joints on horizontal runs of siding. With cedar shake, the number of seams are substantial and not intended to be caulked. If you have large gaps between shakes, you may need to consider replacing those shakes with a piece that fits tighter. If it's only a few, you could caulk for aesthetic reasons but don't caulk all of them. Regarding the prep, important to wash, then scrape/ brush away loose paint, you can scuff sand manually with a sand block or paper but I'd just worry about the areas with exposed raw wood. As you said, a power sander will damage the ridges. Then spot prime the areas where raw wood is showing. I hope that helps. If your home was built before 1978, make sure you know whether or not you could be disturbing old lead paint before you scrape/sand

One other thing I want to add for anybody who stumbles upon these comments, is that you should always spot prime raw wood before applying caulk as it will adhere better to primed wood. That was a part of the previous question about caulking before priming, that I wanted to make sure was answered.

@SD-nh5yr That's awesome, good luck with your project. If you haven't already, typically your local Benjamin Moore dealer can offer free color consultation, and Sherwin Williams offers remote consultations. Good luck!

@SD-nh5yr Another thing I'll add, as beautiful as bold colors are, just be cognizant that they do show dust and grime a little more than white, and because of all the colorant added, they are a little more prone to scuff marks from sneakers (for islands with stools for example)

Thanks for the feedback. I will continue to work on improving the content. I do agree the early portion of the video is talk heavy, that's why I kind of went with a podcast style presentation because I didn't want to gloss over some important details regarding safety and the house wash. I wish I got video of the washing process and more caulk video but I tried to be as informative as possible with the available clips I had. I'm working on improving my planning and process for content. I'm glad you found some good info. We did do a short on prep that is all video and music and no talking

Great suggestion, I know those pitch hoppers look amazing, and I've been intending to get multiple of them. I will always have a use for the pivot tools, but yeah, I'll need to prioritize the pitch hopper. If they were readily available in local suppliers, I would have already had some, but I'll definitely add some to my arsenal. We do about 85% interior work so we don't do a ton of challenging roof work, but I will get a few of them.

I see they are sold in ABC stores, which I have nearby. (In addition to buying from their website)

Haha, I understand your opinion, it is beautiful. The client is committed to a change, and it will look great with a whitewash as well. I understand your thought though, same thing with painting kitchen cabinets, some people can't imagine it while others fall in love with painted cabinets. We've done quite a few whitewash projects that the clients love. You have to be committed and sure of the change, that is for sure. That's why we do sample work for our clients first.

Thank you!

Thanks Butch, I'm sure he is.

Yeah, we don't take any chances. It looks like a crime scene sometimes lol

It was eggshell finish paint. Benjamin Moore Regal eggshell

Thanks Butch, I appreciate that

That's awesome! You have to have this tool or something similar as a painter

@@braunspaintingnetwork agreed.. very versatile and necessary..i wear Truewerk pants and this just slides into the outside pocket.. it’s amazing how much i need it

@dangallagher6975 Yes, doesn't fit great in some back pockets (jeans for example) but pants like that are perfect 👌

That's wild! Thanks for sharing

That's awesome, I'm glad you got great results! Thanks for chiming in.

They are easy tools to fall in love with lol 😆

It definitely was! It even said so right on the cap detective! Lol. Still a good use for those with soft hands

@@braunspaintingnetwork painters and their soft hands 🙌

Must have tools!

Hello, sorry we never got back to you on this! That is correct, the first base coat we applied was Balboa Mist (the same color we used on walls). We cut the paint in half with water. Once all the brick was covered with that, every third brick we put a second coat on so it was more opaque in appearance. Then we used Revere Pewter (cut in half with water) every third brick so that you had three different bricks in the pattern seen in the video. 1 brick was Balboa one coat, another brick 2 coats of Balboa, and the third brick was second coated with Revere Pewter.

Glad you think so!

Thank you!

Glad you had a laugh!

Hello Kim, sorry for the slow reply! We have used high heat paint on the fireplace units before...not inside the box but on the exterior metal...most commonly to take them from a brass/bronze appearance to black. It worked well.

😃

You're welcome. Thanks for watching

Thanks Emma for the kind words!

Haha, very true! Perfect for Mrs. Jenkins!

Thanks Butch, was a fun one!

Thanks for a good laugh, I needed that. I HATE painting.❤

@@oldedwardian1778 I'm glad you had a laugh, that's what we're here for! And uh...I may know a decent painter if you hate it that bad lol