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Adrian, you didn't tell me you had a "play" channel. This channel is fun.

Ive been down a rabbit hole on this whole gas valve issue ive had. This is the best DIY video ive seen. so much help. Well done

I had the same issue on a Bosch dishwasher on the replays that controlled the water heater.

good fix

My Niagara furnace turns 70 years old this year, they don't make 'em like that anymore. It has an old-style bimetalic plenum temperature sensor to turn on the fan, those only last anywhere from 2 to 10 years, but other than that never a single problem. I bought 6 new-old-stock Honeywell units about 5 years ago, they're the ones made in America, and they seem to last a lot longer than the new stock units that are still available. Things used to be built to last, but where's the profit in that?

Adrian's Digital Garage. :) I changed the window regulators 3 times on my 2006 Jeep Liberty. They are known to fail. Not the same regulator each time, it was both front windows and one of the rear ones. I still have somewhere the parts I took out of the car, maybe I'll try to repair them. Mine were all stuck in the low position, so it wasn't too hard to replace. Except that for one of them, the window was stuck low in the middle of winter, that wasn't pleasant. At least the replacements weren't as expensive, I think $40 each.

For my Lennox furnace, I'm still waiting for a new control board... the furnace starts up if I flex the PCB.

The interlocks on my furnace are of the same type as are used on arcade machines. You can pull out the knob to turn the furnace on rather than reinstalling the panel. You may want to try that the next time.

RoHS didn't take effect until 2006, so that solder is leaded. In fact, RoHS is only for European countries, and they don't use such equipment, so it likely is still using leaded solder post-2006 as well since there's no need for it to ever use lead-free solder. It's just cheap cost cutting assembly as usual (you'll find it all over in HVAC)

I like Adrian's HVAC Basement :)

Great repair, thanks for sharing. ❤

I had the same issue with my old Volvo 740. It wouldn't shift into overdrive reliably.. The cause: Bad solder joints in the overdrive relay.. Happens so often in old monitors and TVs too. Today they would change your entire house before even considering to do some simple diagnostics work. It's insane!

Great Work, thank you.

In the UK we are not legally allowed to fix our own gas appliances & household insurance will get withdrawn! In a previous property we had an oil-fired heating system with a similar fault plus a couple of other faults as not covered by the same legislation as gas, so fixed it myself!

I went from “hey, this ain’t a computer video!” to “hey, MY furnace is a Trane XL80!”

Although a bit more involved, just last week I fixed our gas water heater which only required a new thermocouple ($10} and an hour of my time. Last time we had it done by a plumber who charged close to $200 for the repair. Although not a bad solder joint, it was still quite easy. The bad/cracked solder joint bit us with the washing machine a couple of years ago on it’s temp control PCB at a high wattage resistor. It’s a great feeling to fix what’s actually wrong with something. Good job, Adrian!

I had a similar issue with the Utica system my late father installed at my childhood house. Some months before we moved out (he had moved out long ago) I noticed the relays were chattering and were getting charred inside. so I pull out the relay board and whaddya know, cracked joints EVERYWHERE probably from thermal stress. Some flux and a fresh helping of 60/40 and it was right as rain, after a relay replacement as well, probably very unobtainium Omrons as that, the first one I replaced because it was the original, but I never intended for the second set to only last a couple years. the were chattering away and weren't sending the signals for heating the house properly.

If you were not able to do that the average person would have called an HVAC company and been told that the needed a new furnace. With there holiday special it would only cost them $4500.

In Ontario anyways, we're not allowed to repair electronics. The instructor on my gas license exam threw that at me during my practical, and of course, I gave her the wrong answer.

Although on some of those valves they are a pain to take apart (i had one go out) and while everything tested fine using a multimeter it just wouldnt release the gas, i would have tried taking it apart but it appeared to not have any way to remove the components, i might still have it in my parts bin to look at. but a new part off amazon was cheap enough for me to order, i did have an hvac tech install it as im not a fan working with gas appliances. (ive done it but its always a worry in the back of my mind of something leaking and causing a fire)

Might want to order a spare igniters online to have, most of the HVAC places don't sell to the public. Also they are very fragile.

I say you need to do some maintenance on that furnace. I see a lot of dust on the blower motor and all over the inside of the unit... Just saying.

This video is tax deductible in 45 ways … great info

Beyond helpful. I have a similar unit with an identical looking valve unit. Mine isn't quite as old, but if it doesn't ignite, I will start my diagnosis there.

There's a lot of wiggle in that connector... might want to consider some hot-melt to help prevent this from happening again.

I love practical fixes. I repaired a $1000 hvac board in my Toyota once...broken solder joints.

Wow, this would be rather illegal in the UK. Gas appliances (particularly for central heating) can only be worked on by folks who are qualified. (And those who are, I suspect their qualifications would explicitly tell them to not take a soldering iron to a circuit board, and leave electronics to the manufacturer).

Our furnace in my childhood home is when I learned about broken solder joints. I swear my dad fixed it that way once a year 😂

Adrian's Digital HVAC

Update: It's been over 10 days since I did this fix and the furnace has been in use continually. There have been zero issues with it, heat works every time it is called for by the thermostat. I should probably remove the main control board and reflow the connections there too. Trane uses the same Molex connectors on the main PCB, and those are likely to fail in the same way.

Kinda wish there were any auto mechanics out there willing to do anything close to this. Best you'll find is swap out a whole assembly for $$$.

To replace the brushes, no need to desolder anything. The screws hold the brushes and the copper leads down against the silver metal tracks that you saw soldered in. The rotator may have had carbon buildup between the segments causing shorts.

I have a 20 years old Renault and the window regulator failed several times. There is a plastic slider that holds both wires and the window glas. That broke several times or some of the other plastic pieces. It seems not the right material for such force.

Loving these third channel videos! Also, lives in Portland and drives a Subaru... how original! J/K J/K! :)

About ten years ago i have similar problem with window motors on my civic '99 but issue was not in the motor or brushes but in the part where big pully from worm gear goes to cable, there were a corrosion in the bushing and on the axis and motor just don't have enough torque to move it. Disassembling, cleaning and regreasing it fixed issue for me.

The part you cleaned is the commutator it also reverses the electrical current to the coils causing the motor to spin

I believe the black ring between the stator and the worm gear on the rotor is a magnetic ring, inside the plastic case there's 2 hall sensors that sense if the rotor is turning, and the direction, that's connected to the other terminals, current shunt on the motor would be pointless, since it could be put on the control module! The hall sensor is what's done in many automated window motors, since it actually senses movement, speed and direction... Brushes I believe are worn, looks like, never seen a Subaru regulator but usually they are longer, probably they stopped touching the stator and after reassemble the got a little bit off the original position and started touching again, likely would work for a short time. Maybe if you pulled the metal springy thing with the brush to make them tighter to the stator you would have a bit longer life... Nice video!

Remember the direction on the motor house when you put it together or else the windows will go the wrong direction.

Red sticker says: Do not drop / handle with care

A couple of things. DC motor brushes are typically made of graphite. Hence the black gunk. Second, these motors are super cheap and not meant to run continuously for very long. The pulsing of the windows can be very hard on them.

Still curious, what the lever and the other connections are used for. I would have guessed, that the lever is under spring tension and disengages the worm drive from the wheel.

I have done a lot of the Subaru regulators. I am a Network Engineer by day, and on Nights and Weekends I am a mechanic. You can get the regulators a lot cheaper on rockauto I used the TYC brand, and I have never had one come back. I think they are $37. Even the Aisin brand for like $65, and Aisin is who makes them for Subaru.

I don't understand why you don't measure the wires to the connector instead of soldering wires to it

You may be able to get a repair manual / service data through your local public library. In my state we can access Chilton’s via a login on the library’s site. It’s kinda slow and the interface is awkward but it’s very useful 👍

Just starting the video, but on my 08 Dodge the auto-up and down seems to be mostly done with mechanical bits in the actual switch stack, before it reaches the pcb or anything else electric. Just some clever design to keep it in position with a spring loaded pin. No clue if thay is a common way across brands though. Not sure if it measures current or something to switch back off. But fwiw the switch module is connected to the door module via a LIN bus.

Was hoping for Ohhhhhhh yeahhhhhh from Techmoan lol

Liked this . Something different but very interesting. Thanks!

My parent's old 1993 explorer the windows would get stuck at the top position when the window wasn't used for a long time, and us8ng some water on the outside rubber of the window would fix my problem. The cohesion between the window and the rubber would go up during dry periods.

The rotor rotates; the stator is stationary.