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Neither.

I use three or four vendors. In recent sourcing great cork has been a little difficult. Most recently I’ve been buying direct from a family operation in Portugal.

Thank you! I will tape up some of the time, mostly when I run down to my hood height. It’s not my hands I’m worried about it’s mind wandering 😂

Thanks again Robert. Just looking to make people think critically.

I’ve done two for the same client on heavy lifting rods (10-12wt) in pacific blue water. The intent was to fight hand fatigue. That I can understand. Beyond that keep in on the pro bass tour. It is open cell, so it picks up funk and slime. It also doesn’t transmit feedback like a denser closed cell structure, like natural cork. Finally, running primarily wild trout water, I want the rod to melt organically into the background. Nature and a beautiful wild fish need to be primary focus.

@@iamsnowman6812 I can understand that. I’ve built a rod with and EVA grip. I’ve not had the issue with it collecting any kind of funk. But, I also wipe it down generally after an outing. Simply for that reason. I knew it would just soak of all that funk. Ha.

Thank you sir 🙏 and Happy Thanksgiving

Thank you Robert I appreciate it.

I’ll make my own mandrel out of 316 stainless.

Thank you for following along.

Ha! Good point, he would have been a net-ful I mean hat-ful

Actually Lou, all the flex is in hand. So tip power, yea I can see that. If you think of it like a competition Spey rod… the power is 50 percent tip, 35 percent mid body, 15 percent butt section…. I’m generalizing here. So, the rod tracks from the tip but uses the butt end to generate power. Even short casts don’t feel numb in hand. It’s also not “sloppy” or “wobbly”.

@@iamsnowman6812 Zeb. Thanks for the clarification. That makes sense.

It’s an experience, not impossibly hard to work, but crazy slick smooth rocks.

Thanks you Robert! That taper is showing huge promise.

@@iamsnowman6812 I can see that. I saw your work on the Fiberglass manifesto and I was impressed.

It’s not really that difficult. This was more to show some of the logic behind what I build and some of the details.

Thanks Lou I appreciate that.

Thank you I’m glad you like it.

Thank you sir 🙏🙏🙏

If I had hair I wouldn’t after attempting to get this thing rite.

60° center drill. I’ll chuck the bar stock in a collet near flush. Then hit it with the center drill, flip it over and repeat.

100% it’s rough. I can go into SHAPR do it all on a computer screen and it looks like hell in hand. I was trying something different and meh.

I want everything absolutely concentric. This means even tho I was in “round” and close. I want to know I’m ideal. It’s an extra step, but I’m after as clean an end product as I can produce.

@@iamsnowman6812 makes sense, so you think leaving it on the madrel would make it not quite as round?

@@gregoryolenovich6440 that is my belief. Some of my cut dimensions the cork would wrinkle slipping it on in full finished dimensions. Some of this will be covered in the next Ep.

@@iamsnowman6812 that's great to hear, looking forward to it. Thanks for taking the time to answer here.

I’m getting there. I have plans to do an intro build as well as full on what I do typically. I appreciate the feedback. I was struggling to find a jumping off point so I grabbed something close to home. You’ll see the notebook coming back soon.

@@iamsnowman6812 I am looking forward to it, I've watched the first two so far and you provide so much great information. Getting started is always hard, if it wasn't we'd all be RUclipsrs. Hope you keep at it, I'm really looking forward to learning from your detailed and meticulous approach. I enjoy it a lot.

With my hand size and desire to have a lil room to move around, sub 5.5” is a touch short for me.

@@iamsnowman6812 I got small-ish hands. On short & light rods, visually I like the grip size smaller. Also shorter seat to keep it 'proportionally correct'. If I decide to order a rod from you we'll talk about his for sure 🙂

It’s a 13 ring stack. Finished out it was trimmed into 5.81250”

@@iamsnowman6812 turned out very nice indeed

Thanks Lou, hope you’ve been well.

Crafty’s cutter and I trim up the blades to accommodate my specs. There is a wrap up video coming over the rod go over what I skipped over.

Gorilla glue in conjunction with the cork press I can pretty much eliminate all glue lines. I HATE glue lines on finished cork.

@@iamsnowman6812 Sounds good to me.

Dehydration as it relates to the finish itself. A varnish rod will shrink, lets say it starts at .0250" above the thread height. At this point the finish has dehydrated to the point the ridges ridges are starting to show thru. An epoxy rod will not shrink, the epoxy will just start to crumble and deteriorate much like weathered out concrete.

@@iamsnowman6812 Ah, I see. So how is that prevented? Also, I’m so glad your videos are going. I just started rod building for personal use only. But want to know the “ways”.

@@SithLord_66_80 don’t leave them hangin in your Jeep 24/7/365 for nearly 4 years. In the instance of varnish rods they can easily be brought in and recoated. Epoxy rods will usually need a re-wrap. Varnish more labor intensive on the front end,, epoxy easier, on the back side varnish way easier.