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I don't think the filters do themselves but if you get rid of the air box to do a cold air intake it's only for looks and a bit more turbo noise. It's already a cold air intake, it goes from the air box eventually to the front grill. Unless you open up the front wheel well, some have done that but then you risk getting a splash into the air.

@@LightandLensPhoto I had one of the last 900s that ended up on the 9-3 Viggen line, and they couldn't get it to run, the dealership sold it to me for 2 grand no questions asked, they said the car had been shipped to 3 other dealers, and it looked one of a kind, it beat everything from 70-140 ,it overheated and just made it to the shop when the guy put the thermostat in backward and ran it till the plastic in the radiator blew a hole, all the fluid came out and it still ran in 95-degree weather

@@LightandLensPhoto im going to do a cold air intake, but make a custom air hole that's large in the grill and goes to the filter, that will be the waterproofed kind.and try to bring air to it from everywhere, and a tuning chip

ive spent most my time in the 120 MPH area in my Saabs

Probably need to replace the sensor? I thought mine was running "fine" but it was a bit smoother afterwards. Not sure about your limited speed but I don't drive that fast anyway most of the time!

@@LightandLensPhoto there's a place where I live that if you don't drive 80 MPH they'll run you off the road, and there are no cops around. so all my other Saabs always performed their best from 70-130 MPH

@@LightandLensPhoto here's what's crazy, I bought new injectors, plugs O2 sensors, the relay, and an air filter...I ordered the dress-up kit,7 polished screws, and an oil cap with the Saab dragon polished. (I'm going to put in a cold air intake)so I loosened the screws for the air filter box all the way, ran my scanner, and got a P1312 code..and the P0135 was gone? My brother gave me an expensive Tech 2 type scanner where I could pick the make and model..and again ..just the P1312 code. im going to change the coils and plugs ..but weird...would that little amount of extra air buy making the air filter that loose do that?

and where I live has the most Saabs in the world in one place...all low mile 86- and going for the price of a car part.

🤷‍♂️😂😮

Good to know. I guess if you don't want to spend the extra on the Mobil1 name, then these all look like the same filter. In terms of life, I'd conservatively say they're good for 5-7500km rather than the 15-20k they state. I mean, they're probably still working at that point, just at what effectiveness compared to new?

@@LightandLensPhoto I don't think it matters that much. He tried the Motomaster OE Plus too and it did the same thing.🤔 He doesnt drive a lot, he just change the oil once a year. (No more than 4-5000 km) He and I always used cheap synthetic oil like Motomaster, on sales) SuperTech (Walmart) or even name brand like Valvoline, Castrol and Quaker State. (on sales) Oil is oil, the cheapest is the Walmart's Supertech and it gets the job done. I wanted to say too Mobil1 oil filters used to be manufactured by Champion Laboratories but they changed their supplier, it's now manufactured by Mann+Hummel (Purolator) since 2021.

@@joelsimard1148 I didn't knowt they changed to Mann. I think you're right about synthetic in general, but there are a few differences in their performance that would be good to have for the longer intervals. Probably more important too for all the turbo engines these days.

@@LightandLensPhoto As long as it meets the OEM requirements, it doesnt really matter. SuperTech and Motomaster are both Dexos1 gen 2 and API SP certified. Personaly, I change my oil every ~12 000 km/once a year on my 2013 Honda Civic. Once a year for my 2001 Mazda Miata too but it's my summer car so I only drive about 5000 km.

I don't really believe to longer intervals over 16 000 km. Except maybe for people living with hot winter and only highway mileage. Here in Québec's province, winter are tough and cold start the morning can be tricky if you have conventional oil and à tired battery. Temperature can drop up to -30°C during the night.

Yeah, but Fram doesn't have a great historic reputation so they're fighting that. I was surprised by the Mobil 1 too especially because I hadn't put nearly the rated km on it. Still, maybe it's more about the filter media keeping micron level stuff from damaging the tighter tolerances nowadays rather than oil pressure. Going to do an oil change soon before winter at about 50% of the car's rated oil life so we'll see what the CT motomaster looks like.

@@LightandLensPhoto For my last oil change, I used a Motormaster OE Plus cartridge filter, which I think is made by Champion Labs. I plan to change the oil this weekend before it gets too cold to lie on the garage floor. I am curious to see how it looks.

@@azaz911c Do you have a Saab too? I’m really curious if they’re the same filter… MM and M1.

@@LightandLensPhoto I don't have a Saab, but I wish I had one (9-3, 9-5, 900, 9000). I have a Toyota. Based on your video, I wouldn't be surprised if the M1 and MM are made by the same supplier. The manufacturers' marks look almost the same and the O rings look like they are the same colour. Question: is it difficult or expensive to maintain a Saab given that Saab no longer exists?

@@azaz911c re: Saab - I'd say they have their quirks but probably no more than other cars the same age, mostly rust related nowadays. You just have to research the issues but there are lots of helpful resources online. Parts are still available from various suppliers, especially if you are doing work yourself or can find a competent mechanic (not one who doesn't want to learn about them and do things the way they think they should be done). I once tried to get a simple check up (had a "free" coupon) from a relatively reputable place and they thought they had to remove the entire front end to replace the headlight bulbs. Eventually ended up doing most work myself which was way more rewarding anyway. Way more engaging a drive than most Toyotas I've driven.

I think I got it from Rock Auto

Do you mean the harness where it plugs into the ecu? It’s right next to the upstream sensor plug. saabwisonline.com/images/9440/img-f2/f254r211.jpg

Or if you mean the actual location of the o2 sensor? That’s farther down the cat convertor. You have to get to it from underneath, removing some of the routing for the intake. View from underneath should looks like this. saabwisonline.com/images/9440/img-f2/f254r215.jpg

I didn’t have a code, just thought I’d do this for maintenance given the symptoms I had (fuel economy and not as smooth power). I think it was probably more to do with plugs and coils but no big deal in the end to do this anyway.

No codes, just worse fuel economy. Ended up it was more likely (or combination of) old coil packs and spark plugs.

Not sure. The Bosch part number just states 16623 for the part number. On the Rock Auto invoice it just showed 9027.10.0010 so I don't know if that helps. It was the upstream sensor on their catalog.

I don't know... Define easy? There are quirks for sure.

Its not easy. But it's not Difficult

No code came up, just my fuel economy was getting much worse.

Yup, realized that afterward. Tight fit otherwise. Also, one-handed for the video...

Not sure what your sensor problem is, but on my scanner it's called bank 1 sensor 1. There should only be two.

Ok thank you.

Sorry to hear! I'll probably have to do that at some point soon too. Why do you think you have to replace it though? Not sure it even matters except for emissions maybe?

@@LightandLensPhoto yeah.. I'm getting engine light and a code which is "downstream O2 sensor heater circuit failure", I've been told this is now an MOT (UK government test) failure. :-(

@@michaelrmonk If you want a simple solution... swap the O2 sensor harnesses, then switch out the defective "upstream" sensor. Much easier to access than the downstream one. Edit: that won't work long-term now that I think about it. Just thought it might help with passing your MOT.

@@LightandLensPhoto well.. you're sort of on the right track there.. in that I had read that it's possible to wire in a high wattage 10ohm resister to make the ECU think it's ok. That might be the simplest solution...

@@michaelrmonk That's not a bad idea. If you have access to a code scanner and app, you might be able to read what the voltage is (e.g. too high or too low) to figure out what resistance you need to make it happy.