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Completely different bolt pattern to the block. If it could have swapped it would have saved the issues with the sump, filter, and AC bracket clearance. I think the NL oil pump fits , which means an NL sump can be used which keeps it more using bolt on parts. But by the time you source and purchase the parts the cost just keeps going up and up over just using a 6g74 replacement engine

@jack parker ahhh righto. Well as it happens I have those parts already 😁 so that's probably the direction I'll go then. Cheers.🍻

@@lordvader3208 if you put the 380 engine into an NL Pajero I believe you strip the 380 to the bare block and heads, do the same with the NL engine, then bolt all the NL stuff to the 380 block. All just spanner work. So if you access to an 3l sohc NL engine, a 380 engine and your NM engine you should have enough parts to mix and match pretty much all of it I’d say. Then maybe just the engine mounts and grinding the front ancillary mounting plate to fit as mods

@jack parker yeah I've got an NL parts car with a dead 6g74 so have all the parts there to rat off of it. I'm also going to be doing the 380 engine into my own NL as well. A frie d of mine did his NL a few years ago and yeah it's basically a strip and fit like you said but engine mounts have to be messed with a bit the same as yours. But being steel it'll be easy enough to weld a bit on.

So I've finally gotten started on the engine. Have fitted NL oil pump, sump and oil pickup. Oil pickup needed to modded and 2 holes drilled/tapped in the block to bolt the sump. All fairly straight forward, modded the NL engine mount to suit as as well.💪👍

What car did U put the 3.8 in? I'm about to do my ML Triton, any more tips are appreciated.

I did have it running the DET3 piggy back. Easy to wire and setup and gave fuel and timing control. Be great for boosted running, just need to replace the stock narrowband o2 sensor with a resistor to stop the factory ecu from closed loop changes. But after running the motor for a while with a wide band on it couldn’t really see anything too wrong so ended up removing it. The stock ecu runs closed loop all the time and be with the load control using MAF its seems pretty forgiving to engine mods.

@@jackparker365 I was thinking about using a Megasquirt to control the engine and do away with the factory restrictions. Just don't know where to start with the electrical. Any advise would be greatly appreciated

How easy this path is depends on whether it’s auto or manual. As the engine ecu also runs the trans. So going mega squirt will also need a microsquirt set up as a trans controller. This is then getting expensive and complicated. What are planning on doing 380 conversion? Forced induction?

I’ve transplanted the 380 into a Triton chassis with a 1952 Commer cab on it. The chassis is 4wd auto

@@marklawrence6818 ah ok nice. I don’t know much about the triton. Is that auto Aisin 4 speed? I think they are still electronic. Do have all the Triton wiring and ecu still? Also have you seen Speeduino? It is cheap, uses Tunerstudio as the software same as mega squirt and can run a v6 batch fire wasted spark. The 380 coil on plug packs have inbuilt drivers so can just be paired up and fired from one driver for wasted spark. The 380 runs a 36-2 crank wheel I think so that’s easy to setup and you’ll just have to swap the 380 DBW throttle for a Magna one to get a mechanical throttle with a TPS and idle motor I’m afraid I can’t help much with the transmission. Might be able to keep the stock ecu and give it rpm and tps signal so it knows when to do changes. But without a full schematic for that model it’s hard to tell. Or you’ll need an aftermarket gearbox controller

Hi Aussie As. Thanks so much for your reply. I finished mine as well. I didn’t have any pinging issues but as you say, I wouldn’t do it again. I expected a little more from the 380 motor but it felt pretty much the same as the old motor. Initially I ran the 380 inlet manifold, Magna TB, extractors and K&N filter panel in the sock air box. It was definitely more powerful above half throttle and about the same as before below. When towing there was a definite loss of torque though. I ended up going to stock exhaust ( hated the sound of the extractors) and stock inlet. This pulled back most of the torque but lost the little extra it had above half throttle when not towing. I also had overheating problems while towing. Not sure if this is due to the reduced size of the water pump or the cheap eBay rad I was running or maybe not bleeding the system properly while messing around changing inlets etc but that was the last straw and I sold it. Kind of regret it now. I have a stock DID Pajero and it’s boring as 🦇 💩. I’ve always had slightly interesting vehicles and I hate this one with a passion but there you go. If I was doing an engine upgrade again I would do an LS and 4L60E. You can get most of the 4l60e parts needed to convert to 23 splines to fit the Mitsubishi TF case from the states fir not much. If I’d known that before I started the 380 I would have done the LS instead. But I’ll save that for another day. What fuel are you running yours on as I think you need 95 or 98 for the 380 motor due to the CR. That might ease the pinging. Cheers

Hey Jack! You’re right the 98 does help. One thing I noticed as I was washing the sand out is that the main earth strap isn’t on. I must have forgotten it. So I’ll hook that up and it might help with the pinging. I am running the standard bolt ons that came off the old 3.5, so manifold, coils etc. I’m also running the 3.5 spec spark plugs as the ones for the 3.8 caused a big flat spot and no power. Over all, it’s been fun seeing as though I bought a complete 380 for $500 and probably recouped my money by selling other parts off it. I went right through it with gaskets, oil seals, valve seals, lifters, timing kit, water pump, leads, plugs, thermostat etc etc. So now that it’s done it’s good for however long I’ll probably own it. The thing stayed in the normal heat range in four wheel drive towing a tinnie through the soft sand so I would say I can rely on the cooling system. I have a Nm Pajero 3.5 as well which I rebuilt the engine for and it was just very straight forward and easily done. I’m a mechanic and I work for myself so I have to consider all the time I spend and the indirect cost of that. But all in all, I have enjoyed the whole project.

Aussie As. That’s good to hear that you have enjoyed doing something a little different. What did you do for the sump issue around the oil pump?

I used a two part epoxy and built up a new corner 👍👍

Aussie As. I did try an ECUMaster DET3 piggyback ecu. Good value and very easy to wire and set up. The one I got had a map sensor built in too so you could tune fuel and spark to manifold pressure ( boost) as well. The spark timing worked ok. It just intercepts the crank sensor and alters that input to the factory ecu so very simple. But the fuel didn’t work as the factory ecu runs closed loop all the time. So any change with the DET3 was undone by the factory ecu in seconds. I put a wideband sensor on it too. Nothing looked horribly rich while accelerating or lean while cruising. It all looked pretty good. The benefits of MAF over MAP. So after a few months of monitoring I took it all out as it wasn’t needed.

Yes, if your doing this swap on an NL, they are the same casting so the pump and sump swap over, no mods. Engine mounts fit etc. it’s just a mix and match spanner swap.

Hi. I am embarrassed to say it still is not in the car. Just not had time and not been able to have the Oaj off the road. I have just started cleaning the shed in preparation for the final push and have a video half done on the installation of the 380 inlet manifold and COP's. I will endeavour to get this next video finished shortly and get this motor running the car.

Thanks for sharing about the Crank Reluctor. If you find any other components that fit from other models then please share as well. I Just checked the box from my waterpump but it dosnt really have any Part numbers on it. I just Google Image searched NL waterpump, then followed the links for all the pumps with the backing housing and got one off Ebay. Alot of the actuall pumps are the same. The 380 pump is the same as the NL and some others, its that back housing you really need. You could even get one from a wreckers, along with a thermostat housing if you choose that route. Are you putting a 380 into an NM?

thanks for the reply , I am fitting the engine into a ml triton 2007 , so far all good thanks to your video, I found the triton has steel fabricated engine mounts which make them easier to work with as well,

gday man been a while since i replied as it was put aside for a while now back into it , injectors did you use the paj ones or the 380 as the 380 are shorter in lenght and require abit of lathe work

yes went the same route and made a adpter plate was easiest way

Terry, how did U go putting this in the ML? Did you use the 380 block? I've read conflicting stuff that the 3.8 block won't fit in the ML and U need to use the 3.5 block with the 3.8 internals.

Hi Jarryd, The engine isnt in the car yet, so cant report on that, still putting the hybrid 380/NM intake together and gathering the last of the parts. From what i have read between various sites about these 6G V6's, as far as the NM motors go, your best concentrating on the induction. The stock exhaust is not too bad and on its own wont yield much improvement. So, i would say concentrate on Snorkel and K&N filter element as first easy steps. Then you could go a 70mm Throttle body like this www.ebay.com.au/itm/70MM-THROTTLE-BODY-FOR-MITSUBISHI-LANCER-EVOLUTION-EVO-7-8-9-4G63T-ALUMINUM-/302125681790?hash=item4658180c7e:g:n0kAAOSw9N1VgYUN ( I might be installing one of these in the future) You could port the stock manifold throttle body mounting plate out to match it and by the looks our idle air valve should fit which would be great. Or go a bit further and do what i am doing now and fit the 380 lower and upper inlet manifold and injectors. The magna guys see a 10KW improvement straight up over the stock Magna manifold. And as the stock magna manifold looks better than the stock NM, i am hoping for great things from this lol. And the more performance we can get from the parts from our cheap donar 380 engines the better in my book. It all fits surprisingly well with no welding required. The biggest issue is re routing the top rad hose and fitting an aftermarket 3 port fuel pressure regulator as the 380 runs a dead head style fuel rail. Also some flexible ducting to pipe the now front mount throttle body back to the MAF sensor. For the moment i will be using the stock NM throttle body with this as i figured i am changing enough in one step as it is, and i dont have the time to build the cruise control into an aftermarket throttle body at the moment. If you ended up doing all the above, then extractors could be worth looking into but will still yield little extra other than better noise without a full 2.5" system with hi flow cat to back it up. Anyway, hope that helps a bit.

@@jackparker365 6g74 motor Twin Cam motor is fantastic at doing 8000 rpm all day reliability.... however Don't do Donughts on the beach as that is the end of your fun ....sump needs modification to stop oil surge etc.....the motor doesn't just scream at 8000rpm but has mega power and acceleration....actually unbelievable for a factory motor!!!!!

Yep, not a problem but my VE table still isnt finnished and i dont have any real Accell Enrichment set yet but happy to share . Email me on brisbanejack@hotmail.com and give me a run down on your specs. Do you have it running and just want a VE table or you want a whole msq tune file to work with? Anyway, shoot me a long and interesting email with some pictures and we will see what we can do.Cheers Jack