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I used a canned spray varnish, but now, I prefer to spray on Total Boat Halcyon.

Got any leads on 1/4” ceramic blades?

@ Not in the states sorry. Should be easier to find jigsaw blades than ban saw though I’d say. The cutting edge has grit instead of teeth.

@ no, yeah, I’m well aware of what they are. The reason I don’t use them primarily is that 1/4” grit blades aren’t readily available or capable of cutting 1/2” thick composite efficiently. The carbon steel blades I do use last reasonably well and cut great.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft ahwell fair enough.

Stamp is ordered online. Plenty of places will make them for you. Ink is permanent white ink by Staz-on

@@kellydoran7039 I mean, there’s tons of images of fins online. I make all of my own templates and use Illustrator to scale and modify them.

Ha, yes. Fins like this have been the foundation of surfboard fins for decades. Yours sound interesting!

@@hydrophilesurfcraft Best information at tech ingredients Utube channel the guy is way cool, the electric catamaran project. Perfect foils with minimum effort.

A fair perspective, however, so far as I’m aware, there is no one producing fins that way, let alone an individual looking to create their own fins in a home workshop. This craft is an art form both sculpturally and aesthetically as well. A massive and costly glass fiber printing device is just not financially or creatively feasible at my scale, let alone someone smaller.

I misread this initially. There is some use for 3D printing and laminating, if you are capable of getting the lamination to bond with the fiber coating and withstand the flex needed to create a fin as functional as a solid glass fin. Additionally, the reparability and durability of a solid glass fin is vastly superior to a printed core fin, be it impact, flexing to a point of delamination, etc. Home 3D printing is certainly more achievable these days to a hobbyist, but it does also eliminate the sculptural and much of the other aesthetic desires and benefits of glass fiber construction.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft I'm concerned about the significant amount of fine dust generated by grinding fiberglass. While you might wear a mask, this hazardous dust contaminates the surrounding environment, posing a serious health risk to those exposed, especially children like your daughter who play outdoors. Fiberglass particles can become permanently lodged in the lungs. A more affordable and safer alternative would be to create large, rigid fins using a 3D printer. For as little as $100, you could print several parts and then reinforce them with a few layers of fiberglass. I'ts less dangerous then your method. I produce foldable and river fins for paddleboard from 7cm to 28cm at height

@@DigitalLee ​​⁠ Your concerns are justified, but you’re not proposing a comparable alternative performance-wise, in my humble opinion.

The fin is sprayed with a varnish to bring out the colors. A hot coat is a decent option, but easy to burn through, changes the geometry of the fin, and flex characteristics.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft good point, very cool to see the process. I recently acquired a 9’0” Eaton bonzer, I don’t know what fun to use in it, any suggestions?

@@bocajred11ACE Elliot sometimes has Eaton style bonzer fins available. That’d be an ideal fin for one. Those longer Eaton bonzers rule, I’ve always wanted one.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft sweet I’ll take a look, it’s an interesting board for sure, still haven’t figured it out but have only had it out a few times, I’m thinking the fun could be the reason. You want to buy it from me lol

@@bocajred11where are you located? 😂

Never use casting resin. I use entropy CLR and CLS slow cure hardener. I never mix more than 40-50 ounces at once, despite what it may say on the epoxy’s spec sheet, it will go off quicker in a container where the volume is concentrated, especially with CLX. Epoxy takes time, and it is worth it to give yourself that room for error when starting and use slow cure hardener.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft Thank you for reply! it helps a lot to me I mixed it just 1L like 40oz but while I was working it went hardened so fast;; I rekon I need at least 1 hour for working Could I ask how long it takes for layering up in your side? By the way, I will try CLR with slow hardener!! I will keep you posted! Thank you so much

@@김기훈-b4p9o 40oz, but with CLX, it will go off much quicker than CLS. If I am doing a full 30”x30” fin panel, I will mix in batches of about 40-50oz of resin, which will get me through about 7-9 layers of cloth and take about 20-25 minutes. Anything beyond that, and you are mixing too much epoxy, in my humble opinion.

It’s a spray varnish I’m not sticking with, so I won’t bother divulging what it is. I’d recommend something made for bonding to plastics. The stamp and writing are done with permanent ink, some last longer than others. Depends on how the fins are stored and treated.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft thank you so much for the reply :)

Stoked to hear that! That’s all I can hope for. Thank you for checking it out.

It’s a multi-angle vise by Stanley.

I worked at a record store for a decade. Part of who I am. Audiophile > hydrophile.

@@hydrophilesurfcraftThanks… Had me curious… You just seemed a bit young to even know what one of those was… When I was young… They were everywhere 😂

@@hydrophilesurfcraft Really nice skeg by the way… Do we not call those skegs anymore?

Some people call them skegs, but largely just fins at this point! 👍

I’m not satisfied with what I have been using, but it’s a spray varnish. It is totally unnecessary, a glass and resin fin needs no sealant, but this step brightens the colors a bit, which is sometimes nice.

That said, the finish from the product I use has been great, but aerosol cans are wasteful and an added environmental problem I don’t need to add to my process.

Haha I didn’t realize I had a fucking contract. 😂

You realize he doesn’t work for you right… ? 😅

I sell direct through my website when I have stock available. Some are available now via Pilgrim and Surf Exchange Co. pilgrimsurfsupply.com/search?q=Hydrophile+ surfexchangecompany.com/search?q=hydrophile&options%5Bprefix%5D=last

I’m happy to share! I use a table router and 1” spoilboard bit to bring the base close to thickness, then take it the rest of the way with a sanding block I made myself.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft thanks for reply regend!!! table router is made yourself too? I want copy your sanding block!!!

@@北村友宏 no, the table router is made by Bosch

oh!I got it! thank a lot really🙏 I'm check it out!

Most people do. I started working with Entropy because it doesn’t inundate my home with toxic fumes. Now, I prefer the flex, strength, and memory of an epoxy fin. Skis and snowboards are made with epoxy for a reason.

Most people do

Thanks! I use a 3d printed tool I’ve been working on with a friend of mine. I’ll have them intermittently available. Here’s a post about them: instagram.com/reel/Cqou9h2LMMK/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Thank you!