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Very nice video. Upgrading a Jackson by Floyd Rose now. Noticed that the by floyd rose saddles are not compatible with licensed by saddles. Also the "by" saddles are quite a bit more than the special saddles . Still cheap but 40% more in gold at least. Not sure why they are more than specials as they are cheap zinc as well. Saw some Made in japan SS saddles and complete trems. For the price I might try that setup. Hard putting more in the bridge than I paid for the guitar. May try brass block too before I look at pickups. Have a feeling it may be unnecessary with quality hardware. Good audio and great video. Could really see the details between the two🤘

What is the string to string spacing in these saddles???

So sounds like if you updated the nut on the Jackson and filed it down a bit that it would be the much better one with better pickups. Thank you

My Lord...you are so boring! And giving a review of two instruments where you've change the pickups...just stupid!

Haha john wayne paper, My father still watches john wayne classics lol

Ihave missed all yr shorts dunno why

So deers eat apples too😮

Same as mine except I have roaches all over em

Hows her vision now?

Idont know how I missed yr short videos,damn. Happy thanks c her doing good

Lol what's that man

You could also grind the back yourself.

I like the Ibanez.

Works to walk the screw in further, but doesn't back it out, slides right over. A simple Milwaukee ratcheting screwdriver with the proper sized flathead works just fine. Cool cheap new set of bits now though thanks. 👌

I thought this was just a thing my dad said lol

Me Lee, what yr upto these days ☺

Great 🙂👍🔔

Wouldn't it take quite a bit to break the nut?

I'm glad this video exists so that I could see roughly how the bellowing Schleich red deer and the previous Schleich red deer before it compare in size. A more direct size comparison would be appreciated though, but this is still something.

This video gave me a laugh! Haha

Man I love that axe bro.

you can get canadian hard rock maple shims that are not tapered and gain 2mm height back, simplem.. you can chamfer the corner of that saddle using a file as well... sand paper taped on a flat surface easy nuff.. don't be afeerd to get your hands dirty on therse upgrades and builds, FRANKLY, you need a SS base plate to get any transfer benefits from the stainless saddles, the junk metal the ltd base plate is made from will soak up and or destroy any tone benefit from the stainless saddles, then you post and anchors need to be stainless as well to bring it on home... tuning stability improves because the vibrations moving back and forth form saddle to nut has improved, there for the headstock is receivinga better signal or vibration.. a SS nut, locker and bolts is a big improvement as well, or Ti . . using all Ti is rediculous, I have a Charvel I am using an all titanium trem, plate, saddles, adjuster screws, posts and bolts, EVERYTHING, wooly mommoth tusk nut dialed in... and its something else, I can get harmonics anywhere on the fretboard, all the way up, if I pick an inch above the bridge I can get harmonics directly over the pups, anywhere really. its rediculous the harmonics that thing has, guitar is nothing special, its a 6 pt, alder body, maple neck, rosewood fingerboard, abalone star inlays for some reason maybe it was to be a Sambora neck? got it used off thebay.. has no floyd locking nut shelf tho so dunno really? body has a very very thin like 1 coat of lacquer, flaking here and there, its a square body if yuo know what that means, none of the endges were rounded over much at all, less than a mm... emm like that one Ibanez.. the guitar is rediculous to play cuz you feel so much in your hands even on the skinny strings, the A and G ARE farkin crazy, not the volume jsut the vibrations you feel in the hands and chest where body touches .. if you plug it into a amp with good harmonics it gets stupid real quick.. a guy never wants to put it down..> I'll wake up and someone has it on their lap snoozed out, prolly to get first dibs in the mornin? lol yea man titanium is real ncie, stainless is second to Ti IMO, or a combo, Ti plate, stainless saddles, bolts any mixture has different feels . . to me its more important than the wood, the strings sit RIGHT ON THE METAL not the WOOD! so obvioulsy it has a say of anything does right? also regarding this tone thing everyone bickers about, to set it stright ALL tone comes fromt he strings, hands, however, ANYTHING that vibnration touches has a chance to absorb it, so you pluck a string sitting ona metal saddle and nut.. if you can measure ALL the vibrations using spohisticated seismic tools and software, then record that data.. then mount said bridge and nut to a guitar and record again then compare, you will see some frequncies are missing, some arent lasting as long so on so forth, valume has diminished across all 6... thats because wood will absord and extinguish vibrations, its soft, ever notince they dont use metal to isloate vibrations, say on a motor mount? becasue metal doesnt abosrb as well as rubber, so they use rubber, if you moiunted siad bridge and nut to an all rubber body and neck, a whole bucnh of vibrations would be missing, it really absorbs vibration well.. so if you use this set up to rate various species of hardwoods or tonewoods as they say, you will find each one has its own damping characteristics.. it moves around with different woods, some dampen his more than another, some dampen mids more than another, highs, so on so forth NONE OF THE WOODS create vibrations, or ENHANCE, they dont, the only material we know of that deos that is bell bronze, and it has to be shaped a certain way, certain thickness and certain mixture, bronze is brass mixed with copper right? so there isa ration thats PERFECT for bells becasue it amplifies, not diminish like wood, were finidng the right Titanium can amplify as well, not create like bell bronze, but amplify.. if you play with the alloys you might find a magic ratio? who knows? they found it with bronze,, whenb I say create it can rearrange the vibrations to something other than what the string offers.. sorta like harmonics wher it changes it some what, bell bornze can take 3 or 4 frequencies and turn it into a single diffrent frequency not offered when the bell was struck, I am sure you heard, it... its why they can tune bells, of couse you know about xzylaphones, thats done with size and shape, notes, or barrel membranophone, shape and thickness tune, with bells you can alter somewhat with ratios, materials.. of course size matters to a degree, as does shape, but one cannot stray much from the bell shape before it begins to suffer loss and degridation, the idea is the exact opposite of loss and degridation, the idea is to amplify and tune.. lol

Cool! Nalex is great! One of the best plugins ever!

Man I've been using a lot of Guykers! They are ok tuners, locking tuners are very nice, I have a couple of guitars with gotoh hardware and it's very nice! This guitar looks very cool!

First Act usually makes toys that look like instruments. Never seen this model before, but I'll be damned if I don't think it has promise... Would love to see it repaired to working condition. I personally love making cheap instruments roar. Bought a glarry super-strat for 100 bucks in Nov, put 100 into it(new tuners, strings, strap-locks, and nut), did a little fret dressing, set up the action/intonation, and it's a damn fine guitar. Even my gear-snob buddies admit it's a beast. Love the channel, rock on, bro!

Man this guitar looks cool!

if that trem is made by floyd rose for esp the baseplate might be more like fr 1000 because esp demands quality

the real weakness of floyd special is the knife edges/baseplate, wears out fairly quickly due to softer steel, the performance of the floyd special should be fine until it starts to wear

The non threaded tips on those screws made up for non threaded section under the head, giving you the same amount of travel. Well... until you ground them off.

Goodman 😂

So can you please tell me, where does one get those titanium saddle, coincadencly I just striped-out one of those Floyd rose "special" and it was too easy to do, this was just 3 hours ago!

If you need threads all the way up the fine tuner, you probably should release the nut clap and reset your tuning or change your strings anyway. Nice video, but how did it affect the sound???

Funny that I too am in a search of for tuners. I bought some from Temu and eBay and they all don’t fit. No standards in making these is a good reason to go with the Gotoh heads!

Nice new saddles. But I dont like the sharp edge on the front corners of each saddle right where your palm muting occurs... They need to fix that because there is no need to have that sharp edge there

Great up-close filming and awesome upgrades here and I enjoyed this informative video!!

As far as adjusting intonation: I stopped using "The Key" almost a year ago, it constantly would get stuck after setting intonation on one string and was almost impossible to remove. I now use the VERY EXCELLENT Red Bishop Accu-Locator instead. Made in Japan by the parent company that owns Luminlay and crazy simple to use with a much easier design to work with. Definitely check it out if you haven't yet, and kiss "the key" goodbye.

Nice video! I tried the DOPRO (instead of the Kaish branded) stainless steel inserts and fine tuners off of Amazon. So far so good with the inserts but at the moment I'm using FR brass fine tuners instead. Might try the stainless fine tuners again though, you never know. Interesting info on those saddles!

I did the same with the Floyd Rose Special on my Jackson SL4X Soloist. I used my Dremel to round the lower edges of the string clamps of the bridge. I got Titanium clamp inserts and a Floyd Rose FL TFR-TIN R3 Titanium Locking Nut R3. Now, I don't have issues anymore with the Floyd Rose on my Jackson SL4X Soloist. My advice : Don't over-tighten the screws which mount the saddles on the Floyd Rose bridge plate, otherwise you risk to strip the thread of the bridge plate, simply because the metal of the bridge plate is way way softer than the stainless steel of the screws. Also, don't over-tighten the clamps of the Titanium locking nut, because you will CUT your high B or E strings (unwound strings) ... believe me, it happened to me, until I realized that I didn't have to tighten the nut clamps too much before the high strings were locked to sustain any "trem abuse".

Thank you for your instruction. I really should know more about these things. Hope your Christmas was nice.

Very useful video, thanks. I’ve been looking to upgrade all these parts on my special. I’m also going to try a stopper instead of the middle spring. It’s supposed to make a massive difference to the stability. 👍

As a machinist for 30 years, I can tell you there is a reason to not having the threads go to the end of those licking screws. You dont need them for one, and if you dont have threads going to the end they wont be smashed and expanded so if you back them out the damaged threads wont damage the internal threads of the base plate.

Merry Christmas Buddy ❤❤❤

You are creative with your content sir

Aaron's custom guitar on the works! I am sure it stays in tune now onwards BTW how I missed this video..youtube is getting toxic these days

the FL looks set up to perfection ! very nice upgrades

You have achieved a feat, changing floating bridge is no easy task, I have hard time changing only the strings bro. Thanks Buddy for explaining how floyed rose is adjusted, I bet such detailed video isn't avl here. Lastly bro, you have really nice onscreen presence and talking skills, super likeable!