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Thanks for your support i have the midas ltd almos the same thank for sharing

Just some tips here from somebody formally trained in a machine shop program and with a lot of hours spent on a lathe making many finished parts... for the person who is just getting started on one of these lightweight machines, practice on aluminum. Use WD40 or kerosene as a cutting fluid. Learn about left-handed and right-handed cutting tool geometry (hint: the tool used in this video was the wrong one). Avoid using brazed carbide cutting tools unless you are willing to sharpen them properly. Those cheap bit sets that come with these machines are not intended to be used as-is. They come unsharpened. They also don't come with geometries optimized for aluminum. Go with HSS (high speed steel) tool blanks, and learn to grind them to the correct profile for aluminum using a typical home bench grinder, then hone to razor sharp. Run them dead nuts on centerline or a hair below. Never above. Learn a little about speeds and feeds, dial those in. You'll be cutting like butter and with killer finishes in no time. Repeat for other cutter geometries and materials. Brazed carbide is great, but it has some quirks you'll need to learn about when you get into cutting harder materials later. For nearly all work, I use high speed steel cutting tools because of their extreme versatility. Sure, carbide has it's place, too, but it can be more challenging for the novice. There are excellent videos on sharpening HSS toolbits and plenty of free resources to show you things you need to know, such as rake and clearance angles, and nose radii. There's no way to be a good machinist without some basic knowledge of proper tool geometry, speeds and feeds, but the good news is that it is very easy to learn, for free. Stick with learning from reputable, experienced machinists. The Smithy machines are fine for somebody just getting started, but you have to read all available literature from Smithy about your particular machine. I've seen and heard people complain about these machines but then at the same time, they're also often not even using them correctly. Keep them clean, properly lubricated specifically with ISO 68 way oil (e.g. Mobil Vactra 2), properly adjusted for all gibs and backlash, strive for setups which maximize rigidity, and you're golden. Best of luck to you and congratulations on getting started!

A few things for you. The Smithy uses ball oilers as you have found. There is no need for a "special tool" to lubricate through them. The tapered tip on your oil can should work. Push the ball in with the tip of the oil can until the conical tip stops or "seats" in the brass body of the ball oiler. Squeeze the trigger on the oil can a few times, and you should be good to go. A spring under the ball will return the ball to its original closed position. Always lube the machine through the ball oilers before every use, and also to every exterior location you can access where metal slides directly on metal when operating the positioning controls. As for the ways and gibs (the sliding dovetails and the adjustable "wear plates" as you called them), you dont want them highly polished because you need oil retention. Polishing them does not increase their accuracy and will cause the machine to wear out much faster. These gibs and ways need to be separated by an oil film at all times. If you are cleaning up an old, rusty machine and all you have access to is emery cloth, best to use something coarse and take just a few strokes to lightly scratch the surface, then clean thoroughly before oiling and assembly. This provides a place for oil retention. Highly polished surfaces rubbing on each other dont properly retain oil. They will also exhibit increased friction and stick / slip problems, and this will reduce machine accuracy, which is the opposite of what you want. As for what oil to use on these surfaces, you should specifically use way oil such as Mobil Vactra 2. It is an ISO 68 lube but has tackifiers and lubricity additives specifically designed for small horizontal machine ways. The Smithy manuals for these machines are decent and you can get them from their website.

I will have my girlfriend change mine. 😂

I have had one for since 2001. Just a hobbyists. I find that my machine has more backlash in both directions than it should. I have just started to try and make it less by doing what the manual says but so far I havent had any luck. I called the tech line but the guy I needed to speak with about the older machine adjustments was not there. The guy I spoke with wasn't really able to help me. I have not called back. It has been a good little machine for many years and I only used it here and there. You do have limitations with it but it was good for me to learn on.

I’m in the process of purchasing one just like it. Any complaints after ownership

Good job sr

I want a four jaw chuck. I haven't been brave enough to try figure out how to get the three jaw disconnected..

I very much enjoyed your initial work on your Smithy! Keep up the good work!

Looks like you need to hook on to a good standing tree and pull out the fouls in your winch wire/cable.

Can you tell me the maximum size bar I can run with it stock? Max with the 272 upgrades and porting you’re doing? Thanks!

Enjoyed watching the detailed teardown! I’m working on an 89 model 61 that has a long family history. My Dad and I were riding in Groveton, Tx. (120 miles NE of Houston) and I saw the chainsaw lying on the street. I told him to stop about the time he saw it and grabbed it, jumped back in. We drove around the block to see if anyone was looking for it but there was nobody. He took ownership of the saw as he lived on the property in the country. That was in the early 90’s and the saw looked new then. He passed in 2020 and the saw is almost all original (fuel line, bar and chain changed) and it was filthy and in need of love. I’ve got it torn down and mostly cleaned. I didn’t remove the cylinder or mess with bearing and seals It still ran strong when last used. Ordered a carb kit and a few parts that were damaged or missing. I hope to have it reassembled and running soon!

Can you let me know how you ordered the bearings for the

6

No gut feleres

Small tree

I have a Smithy CB 1220- XL myself . I'm still learning too. But damn, you ain't got the Smithy Operators Manual ? I gotta hand it to ya though, you either got no shame or you want to be a You Tube movie star 😁 . This comment is a year after your vid was posted so by now maybe you have learned more about your lathe/mill. I sure have with mine 😉. I need more tooling and accessories 🙄. Keep going 😉

Can you show how you mounted the sensors? Currently working on this and a little hesitant to drill holes in my machine 😅

Sirs I would like to warn potential buyers of the smithy brand of machine after I got my machine not knowing how a lathe is suppose to run I could never get a smooth finish on my turnings when I finally discovered that clutch mechanisms was wrapped and would vibrate the machine I tried to get Smithy service to help me repair it it is now 1 year later after 15 e-mails and several calls that no one will answer or call you back I have started to warn people of the way this company treats its customers after they already have gotten all the money they think there going to get out of you so if you are planning to purchase one of these machines all I can say is DON'T DO IT

Always wonder y they don't put wench on front of skiders when you need wench really really bad it's need pull in front I ran skiders on power line with cherry picker on the back and it was always bad conditions

I rember being out In my jeeps we wenched the whole way home you. Break that top soil and done the kid with closest to stalk bald tires did the best because he wasn't tearing the ground up

No one gives a s*** about your fence line or what you're making it out of we are trying too learn how to service a John dear. Tell us something we Want to know like? Where is the location of the hydraulic fluid drain? Way too much small talk.

I always put the day and the mouth

I prefilled the fuel filter with diesel before I installed it

Honestly man you should dropped your drag before you got in trouble an not only could you have used your skids to pull you back but you got a blade an a perfectly good grapple to lift an push your way out but you can always walk yourself over in to a different track with your blade you weren't stuck my friend just a little inexperienced is all be safe out there

I've found these videos using your Smithy to be very interesting. How can I talk you into doing one for single-point threading on this machine?

Just unhook the drag and run your cable under the skidder to a tree and slowly winch yourself up the hill. Been there many times haha.

Hi just wondering what process you had to go through to prime the unit after it air locked on you? You saud it took you two hours in the video. I'm going through the same process and suspect it pulled in some air. Started up immediately and then died after changing the filters and thinking that I had it properly primed off of that funny little hand pump on top of the water separator. Any info is greatly appreciated.

I see you boys have problems with thawing/freezing thru out winter season. Way up north in Wisconsin, it normally freezes up by the end of November and stays froze thru the middle of March. We still run chains most of the time. They help in deeper snow and extreme frozen soil.

Keep going practice makes perfect

Did you check to see if the lathe bit cutter was on center line ? You will know it for sure if facing off a solid piece of stock and if it leaves a small tit on the center. You don't want to go past center cause you will be riding on the underside of the cutter and possibly chip the carbide brazed on cutter of the bit . And in turning down and parting off, you sure need to be contacting on center line or slightly above. I'd like to hear more about the reconditioning of the lathe /mill. I have a Smithy CB 1220-XL myself.

I'm about to the part where you're tapping your bearings in. Cool video, btw. Um, I do that several ways. You can get you a heat gun, & heat that case half up. And the day you're gonna fit bearings, toss them shits right in the ice box, in a baggy, unless they're already wrapped ya know. Get your case warm, & fit your cold bearing in. Then if you need to tap them in, it's relatively easy. I keep editing too, haha. And, you can do that same process pressing your crank in. Toss the crank in a baggy in the freezer, get your bearings warm (180-200° ish), then press her in.

Fast motion chipmunk on meth talk SO funny.

Maybe it's time for multi ring chains on the front tires, and ice pick chains on the rear tires ! PROBLEM SOLVED

Thank you sir good information that fuel filter looks a little challenging

Can't wait to see the 61 builds!

Hi

Wow nice machines you got! Love the skidder sound! Just subscribed! 🪵👍

That final drive oil needs changed man

Always good to have some kind of spark arrestor on a skidder. You may have a problem with the branches catching the bottom edge of the muffler where it sits above the limb riser. Your skidder hasn't pulled a lot of wood in it's life...the fairlead roller looks like new.

What year is your Franklin

Subscribed! Nice trailer bud!

Just curious, why park the truck and trailer so far from the logs?

What’s is your saw your using is it a echo 7310 and a great video O son

Thanks for the video, im servicing a JD 323d this week and now Im more confident in doing it. Most of my mechanical knowledge is in Automotive and industrial equipment, adding construction equipment to the list now.

We're can I buy a log trailer like yours at? I haul on a 93 ford one ton an would like to have a trailer

Can you fill the filter with diesel fuel before putting it on to save time?

I had the same problem bleeding my 329d so now I temporary patch in a cheap generic electric fuel pump in line on the tank side of the small primary filter. Turn it on and open the bleed valve, problem solved, take it out, hook everything back up. Takes about 5 minutes.